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Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Graphite in the nut slot probably won't help much.
You can build a nut slot up with baking soda and crazy glue and re-file it to a proper depth.
If you go to a hardware store and find a welding torch tip cleaner set it makes a handy/cheap set of nut files in a pinch. Just go slow and check it often.

For the other one find a short length of metal with a known straight side and use it to span frets 8,9,10 if it rocks at all that fret is high and needs to be either filed down till it is level or it is coming out of the slot and needs re-set.

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Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Not really bad, depends on what you are looking for.
A lot of the older cheapy Japanese guitars have really microphonic pick-ups that sound gritty and other adjectives like that.
Wax potting them would help probably but it might change how they sound/respond to playing. If you like how they sound now don't worry too much about it.
If they are really microphonic you can sing into them the opening of STP's Dead and Bloated was done like that.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

You just put a little bit of baking soda in the slot and put a drop of super glue on it. It will harden instantly, there might be a little wisp of smoke.
Then just file it flush with the top and re-cut your nut or if it needs to be built up more do another round.

True nut blanks are cheap but if you just need to bring one slot up just a tad this takes 5 mins.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Pretentious Turtle posted:

I've finally got around to messing around with my PodX3. How do I edit patches from my computer instead of having to go through the aggravating combinations of button presses when using the unit solo?

Download the line 6 software. The line 6 monkey(stupid name) will update the drivers for you automatically and allow you to get the gearbox software to edit it with.
It will even enable you to back up your patches.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:

It's a 450S (original Edge, not the Lo Pro), and funnily enough, I had toyed around with the actual position of the bridge on the studs. The knife edges as I guess they're called were resting above the nice little cut-ins in the studs. I raised the studs up and moved the entire thing down closer into the body. After-the-fact, it definitely seems like it was supposed to work like that in the first place! I feel really stupid now.

The damage was there when I bought the guitar though. I don't abuse the Floyd enough to get anywhere close to doing whatever caused the damage. The bridge is now resting perfectly on the studs and that all looks fine. Is there anything I should do to treat the damage itself? Scrape off any damaged wood and fill it up or something?

Thanks a lot for the reply.

You can drop fill the poly finishes on modern guitars with super glue. You want a medium viscosity type and put a drop on the spot that needs built up and let it dry. Repeat until filled up the wet sand it flush and polish it.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

I like them personally I've never had a problem with them being plastic from a reliability standpoint.
They won't be very good for DIY stuff though they are almost all surface mount stuff under the hoods.
For 4.99-9.99 I'd get one of each one they have.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Yeah if you have really old strings they are most likely all dented up where they get pressed against the frets.
Intonation is always best set with a fresh set of strings.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Teeter posted:

I'm using the rocksmith cable to run my guitar through my laptop, but want to output through something other than headphones. I've got a 4x12 Marshall cabinet which would be ideal but I need some sort of preamp to power it, anybody have a cheap recommendation?

Does cleanliness of the outputted sound matter? Get a smokey amp or a MXR microamp if not really.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Pretentious Turtle posted:

Anyone got tips for cleaning hardware?

Naphtha and a toothbrush. Nothing's going to get hurt by soaking it in a jar of naphtha either, sealed tuners might, but you can usually take the buttons off of them and soak them separately.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Sad Mammal posted:

It doesn't look like the non-stompbox Turbo Tuner will ever be re-released. What are some other tuners of similar quality in that price range (~$120)?

Not pedal form I'm assuming you mean other wise just buy the turbo tuner pedal
http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-PW-CT-07-Tru-Strobe-Tuner/dp/B000Z5VB4O
Planet waves makes one

Korg makes the pitchblack tuner too that has strobe modes, but it is in pedal form only I think.

I've been using a Snark clip on tuner lately and it honestly does everything I need it to do for $20, plus it can tune my non electrified acoustics.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Adding to the Man or Astro Man? and Back to Basics love.
In the live shows "CoCo" uses a modified computer keyboard to trigger the samples it's one of those huge old IBM ones with physical switches for each key that some of them have been modified to more robust switches to handle the abuse of a live show.

I got probed at a MOAM show:wth:

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Deelon posted:

Ok, so I've got a guitar wiring issue. I purchased a loaded pickguard from guitar fetish/GFS for my strat. I dropped it in and wired it up, and I'm pretty sure I did it correctly. Problem is, I'm still getting a terrible ground hum. I tried connecting the ground wire both to the spring plate on the back, and the bridge itself, and it actually made the hum worse when I did that. If I touch the ground wire with my fingers, the noise goes away, as expected. WTF?
Switch the wires on the jack, you probably have them backwards.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Buy a Snark tuner never look back.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

If the voice coil is broken or detached inside the cone it's probably more cost effective to just get a replacement speaker. Unless it is some sort of collectible vintage speaker.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Stick a multimeter on the leads and check the ohms.
If it is a 4 conductor you have to combine the wires on each coil to get the whole pick-up as opposed to each coil separately.
You have to take the pick-up completely out of the circuit to get an accurate reading.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

attaching each of the wires to some brass screws and then using your finger to complete the circuit is the classic circuit bending control surface. Depending on how much pressure you put on the connection determines how much of the signal flows through your skin affecting the sound.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Goodpart posted:

I've been messing with a Joyo analog delay pedal for the last hour or so and now, upon engaging the effect, nothing happens. It still works as a bypass and the LED comes on, but the delay itself isn't present.

Did I just get a dud unit, or is there something really obvious that I'm missing? I've heard Joyos are great if you get one that works so I guess I shouldn't/wouldn't be surprised.

Is it running on battery or a wall wart?
Try changing the battery if you're using one. Delay pedals eat batteries like crazy and a dead one could just make it revert to a bypass mode.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Southern Heel posted:

My thirtieth is coming up soon and my wife has given me carte blanche to pick up something nice for myself as a present, but the problem is that I already have a great setup for both my guitar (USA Strat + Blackstar HT1) and my bass (CV 60's P-Bass and a Fender Rumble V3 100w - http://i.imgur.com/AfQgtFw.jpg) and I have completely failed so far to even get to the audition stage with any local bands or groups. I do have a drum machine and an eight track, and I have been doing a little recording there.

If I had no care in the world, I'd likely go for a five-string fan-fretted monster bass or a Jackson Kelly so I could attempt to live out my retarded heavy-metal dreams - but I can't help but feel it'll just be throwing good money away for no reason: after all I specifically picked my gear for a reason.

I'd really like some insight on this, because it seems like a nice opportunity for some wife-sanctioned GAS relief, but unless I'm missing something it's a bit pointless.

Do you have an acoustic guitar?
If not or if not a nice one why not take it as an opportunity to invest in a nice one that can become a family heirloom.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Ferrous Wheel posted:

Here is a probably stupid question: Is there a way to shim a trem arm that's "knocking" due to a few millimetres of play in the socket? Every kind of tape I've tried is too thick. If there's no way to mute it then I guess I'll have to grab a cheap GFS unit. I'm hoping there's an obvious solution that I've missed so I can keep the guitar original and not have to buy a new bridge.

If the hole for the trem arm has a bottom to it drop a spring from a clicky pen in it and screw the arm down.
The spring will give it a little bit of tension and keep it in place better.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Jeff Goldblum posted:

I'm looking into getting a new guitar strap this year and I know that Couch straps come as widely recommended. This will be getting locked up and slapped on the Warwick, which isn't a terribly heavy instrument, but is still a 5-string bass guitar. Is there any particularly recommended type of strap of theirs to look at or would I be well enough going for one of these saucy deadstock straps like the "Vintage Cadillac Sunburst"?

Couch straps are pretty sturdy you should be fine with just about any one of them.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

DrChu posted:

What's the most cost effective tool to shape the fret ends on one of my basses? Cost effective meaning I don't want some $75 file from Stew Mac so I can be a pretend luthier. The frets ends aren't sticking out past the fretboard, but the end that is there is too boxy and needs to be rounded over a bit.

Just get a small triangle file and if your scared grind the teeth off the corners or just be careful.
That's how it used to be done before stew Mac started selling custom files.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Lookmumnocomputer on youtube has some simple projects and explains them a bit while showing how to build them.
Then he goes crazy with them like building a synth with 100 simple oscillators.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Jason Sextro posted:

I got a LP-facsimile from Warmoth that I have been slowly putting together, but I only recently realized that I hammered in one of the bridge posts without settling the groundwire in first :negative: How do I get the post out or, failing that, connect it to the ground wire? Nothing else has been put into place yet since that will only make things worse.

Screw one of the mounting posts into it and carefully use a claw hammer to pull it out. Pot another piece of wood on top to protect the guitars top.
Or stewmac has this tool
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Maintenance/Schatten_Knob_and_Bushing_Puller.html

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Lester Shy posted:

Legally, what's the difference between an "original" guitar design and a counterfeit? I.e., why can every company in the world sell a guitar that's visually identical to a Telecaster or a Les Paul, as long as the headstock is slightly different?

Fender and Gibson didn't really bother pursuing companies making copies of their body shapes for the longest time.
Rickenbacker did and that's why you don't really see copys of their designs for sale. Even if one pops up on eBay they contact ebay and make them take the auction down.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

If you have a case already go to guitar center if you have one near by and ask if they have any boxes that the guitars come shipped in.
Then just slide the case into it and go to your nearest ups store.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Do you have a budget in mind?
The general consensus over in the guitar thread(you should post this question over there too) is a Squier Custom Vibe(CV) Telecaster or Stratocaster.

What kind of music does he want to play?

At bare minimum you'd need a guitar an amp a cable and some picks. Other stuff nice to have would be a strap of some sort and a tuner there's lots of cheap clip on tuners on the market that work perfectly fine.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Vitamins posted:

Is there a preferred marketplace to sell electronic musical components?

My girlfriends dad passed away recently and he's left behind a load of old vacuum tubes and amp speakers.
We believe the speakers all still work but have no way of testing the tubes. Some are vintage and some are more modern.

Reverb is the main go to nowadays.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Shadow0 posted:

I'm planning to go on a couple planes the next few months. Problem is I don't have an address for the next place. I was hoping to bring my instrument with me on the plane so I can practice for the next few months and because shipping is going to be super expensive and I'm worried they'll break it. However the instrument is 160 cm long.

I tried looking online for stuff, but the only thing people seem to bring on planes are guitars and violins for some reason. I saw that I may need to buy it its own seat. :/

I was planning to call the airline later, but if anyone has experience bringing large instruments on a plane (especially international), what was your experience?

What is the instrument?

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Does it have a case?
If not you might have to suck it up and get a "flight" case for it and check it as baggage.
Bad news there is it's too long for a full sized keyboard case so you might be looking at getting a custom case made.
Probably cost you just as much as buying another seat but it will be protected forever.
Call the airline and see if they can do anything.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

raspurtin posted:

Quick Question for you all -- I have a Mackie 802 mixing board I've used for home recording for a few years. The left channel of the main out is starting to get scratchy - I can get it to work but I have to wiggle the faders. I assume it's just dirty inside, and I'm thinking about opening it up and seeing if I can clean it out. The question - do I have a chance of fixing it? I'm not very experienced around electronics but I figure some compressed air and maybe some rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs would clean up the contacts without causing too much harm. There's no service location nearby, I'd have to ship it, wait several weeks, and pay for return shipping to get it fixed. I can probably get a new one the same price as all that.

So my question is two-fold: Is it reasonable to think I can I fix it myself, and if so, any tips for doing so?

Thanks so much for any help.
Get a can of caig deoxit poo poo is magic

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Have you tried lubing it?
Some 3 in 1 oil or any light oil WD40 etc... give it a few drops and see if it helps at all

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Looks like a pretty standard drum throne start your search there.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Does the guitar have active pickups?
Could be if it does the stereo jack to switch the 9v on/off when plugged in is shorting the input on the pedal making it switch.
If it doesn't than nevermind.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

They look like something like this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174283336203?hash=item289418aa0b:g:2xoAAOSwLPBf9hHJ

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Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Harbor freight used to give those multimeters away for free with a coupon.
For continuity testing they work fine.
I have a nicer one but sometimes I leave it out in the garage so the cheap one works when I don't feel like getting the good one.

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