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Diogines posted:Help! Take them out and replace them with cardboard, or preferably wood toys and houses. They are going to chew on everything within reach so make sure none of it is harmful to them.
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Nov 9, 2010 04:10
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Diogines posted:Done. Be sure the wood is not treated in any way because they will chew on it. I buy these cardboard tubes for my pigs that they love and they chew them down to the point where I replace them every 3-4 weeks. So yes its normal. Also remember corrugated cardboard is going to have glue in it so I'd really recommend some sort of house made from untreated wood to something that is cardboard, unless you can get something you know was made with non-toxic materials. The mediums are perfect for pig size, just toss the nesting material that comes with it: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=6067+18349+14596&pcatid=14596 And while you're there you might as well get some food since they have great flat-rate shipping. This is about the best: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=16630 vvvvv You should assume they will chew on everything, because they will chew on everything. Sirotan fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Nov 9, 2010 |
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Nov 9, 2010 04:21
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I use a combination of carefresh and fleece/towels. I have fleece/towels down over everything and then a 'hay box' that I fill with carefresh that I put their hay in. They tend to do most of their peeing/pooping where they stand and eat so this way most of their business is done in the box, and I empty the box 2x a week. Keeps the smell down and then I only have to clean the fleece/towels once a week.
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Nov 19, 2010 22:03
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Diogines posted:I would be very interested to see how you set this up, care to post a picture? Its a bit of an old picture as I now have that box smack dab in the middle of the second story, but this is about how it looks:  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Also I zip-tied thin strips of wood to both sides of the edges of the hay box so they aren't chewing on the plastic of the box. It works pretty well for me.
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Nov 20, 2010 00:47
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spiralbrain posted:Im a little confused. Is that 3 levels? There is another piggie in the bottom left and I cant tell what level hes on. Nope, just two levels. I cleaned their cage today so I took some newer pictures:   Two levels with ramps on both sides. I have thin pieces of untreated pine zip tied to the top level clorosplast because one of my last pigs loved to stand up there and look out the cage and chew on the plastic. The hay box has it as well though as you could see in my other post, it used to be on the bottom level in the left corner, so since I moved it I never got around to putting wood on that one exposed side. You can see how much they've chewed it down. Also that isn't carefresh in the hay box because at a local pet expo recently a new company was selling this recycled shredded paper as bedding and I bought a bundle of it. They charged me $7.50 for 12 cubic feet. I've been using it for three months now and have barely made a dent in the bale. Add that to the hay I buy in bales from local farmers for $5 and fleece sewed to towels as bedding and I think I've got this whole owning guinea pigs on the cheap thing down to a science. 
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Nov 20, 2010 23:29
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^^^^ Jesus christ  Black Friday pet supply protip: Now is a great time to ditch the carefresh or pine shavings and switch your piggies over to fleece and towels as bedding. Fabric stores like Joann's or Michael's have fleece at 50% off on Black Friday. I'm moving in ~1 month and when I do my pig cage is going to get a remodel so I'll be stocking up on some cute new fleece on BF. I'm lame so buying fleece for pigs will probably be the only line I'll stand in all day.
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Nov 25, 2010 03:03
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cat with hands posted:^^^^^^^^^^ This stuff is normally $10/yrd and was on sale for $3. PLUS I had a 20% off my entire order coupon. 16 yards for $40:  Patterns for the bottom, solids for the top level. Lobsters 
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Nov 26, 2010 20:14
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zoombit posted:Hi, I'm honestly not sure if this suggestion is good for a hamster, but I just wanted to say I feel your pain. For years I went through water bottle after water bottle with my pigs, the traditional ball-bearing style bottles leak terribly and after my pigs would chew on the tips of them the vacuum 'seal' would be ruined and they would just leak out their entire contents over a short period of time. Eventually, I came across these bottles: http://www.woodlandbird.com/text/WBuddy.html Of course, that brand is no longer being manufactured. It has a small lever in the spout and when the pig/bunny/etc agitates it with their teeth or tongue, water will come out. It doesn't rely on a vacuum seal to keep it from dripping. These bottles don't drip AT ALL and have been a godsend for me. This site: http://www.bunnyrabbit.com/price/waterbottle.htm says there is a similar style bottle, the "MJ Bottle", still being sold. It looks exactly like my bottles, so maybe this is something you can look into. My pigs didn't have much of a problem learning how to drink from this style of bottle when I first put it in their cage but I have read accounts of some people's pets not being able to figure out how to use them. I've never read of anyone using one for their hamster but because I don't have hamsters I've never needed to find this out either. I think it would be good to try though if you can buy one.
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Dec 12, 2010 17:58
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Hay question: I'm in need of more hay for my adult pigs. I'm taking a road trip to the west side of the state tomorrow and theres a farm there selling 2nd cuttings of mixed grass hay bales. Its 10% alfalfa. I know I've read they don't recommend alfalfa hay to adult pigs due to calcium content but with such a marginal amount it doesn't seem too worrisome to me. Seems most bales I can get are a mix that include alfalfa, this particular place is the only one that will tell me the actual percentage of alfalfa. Ok to buy or I should seek out another farm?
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Dec 17, 2010 01:34
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alucinor posted:If your pigs are under 4 years old and have no history of stones, it's probably OK. If they're older and/or have already had stones, I would not risk it. I have one that is 5.5 and the other is 3ish. No history of stones in either of them. I think I'm going to try and find another source first. Though I've been feeding them timothy hay mix/grass hay bales for the past 2ish years without knowing the exact % of alfalfa (if any) that was in the mix and have had no issues. Would rather be safe than sorry. For reference here is what the farm says about the hay: Mixed hay bales (contains: timothy, kentucky bluegrass, about 10% alfalfa & 8% clover) Edit: Heh, well I decided to splurg and get 45lbs of 3rd cut timothy from KM's Hayloft because I've heard good things about them. Sort of the opposite from my buying $4 bales to save money but $63 for 45lbs of hay shipped is really not that bad at all. Sirotan fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Dec 17, 2010 |
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Dec 17, 2010 02:28
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kazmeyer posted:KM's Hayloft is freaking AWESOME. I only get their bluegrass (allergy issues) but it's mindbogglingly good stuff. The first time I put it in the cage, my girls abandoned baby carrots to eat it. Carrots? Wow. Yeah what you wrote has basically been all I've heard about their hay. The last local bale I got was 95% stalk and my pigs have been wasting a lot of it. I felt bad for them, I know they love all the hay flowers and leafy bits. I figure 45lbs should last me at least 6mos, so $10/mo for quality hay, seems decent.
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Dec 17, 2010 04:12
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So I'm looking to adopt another guinea pig, was browsing PetFinder today and found one I pretty much fell in love with. By the time I made up my mind that I had to have her, I emailed the rescue and someone had already applied to adopt her. Also I really hate to browse PetFinder. Sure they're all cute but there's just SO MANY and I cannot save them all and I just end up more depressed than anything else. Edit for pig pic just because: 
Sirotan fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Dec 29, 2010 |
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Dec 29, 2010 03:11
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cat with hands posted:^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I think its hard to see in the pic how long her toenails are but yes, their front nails are generally shorter and I do try and keep them as short as I can to prevent them from curling under their feet. It helps on her because I can see the quick through her pink toenails. Edit: The rescue got back to me about another pig I will probably end up adopting. Heres the one I wanted, but is now taken:  Such a cutie  This is a litter of two males and one female that came to their rescue when they were only 4 days old. If everything goes how I'd like I'll be adopting the female in 2-4 weeks: 
Sirotan fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Dec 29, 2010 |
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Dec 29, 2010 13:23
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Serella posted:I love how baby guinea pigs are basically all head. Their bodies lengthen so much as they get older, but they are just the cutest little nuggets as babies. Yeah so it turns out its all males and the woman sexed them wrong the first time. And I read over at Guinea Lynx that this "rescue" might be getting most of their babies from breeders in the area. Back to the drawing board...
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Dec 30, 2010 02:17
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alucinor posted:Goddamn. You know who I want? This dude:  http://monroemi.craigslist.org/for/2130579031.html Left in a ditch! He is so goddamn cute. But I have all females, won't really have the space for two (giant) cages and would rather get more females than have to put a pig through surgery if I don't need to. I really hope someone can find him a home. WeeHoo 
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Dec 30, 2010 03:49
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alucinor posted:Goddamn. Almost forgot to post this. That rescue that I read over at Guinea Lynx was a scam and was just selling off pigs they got from breeders? Yeah I emailed them about it, the foster got a little defensive and asked what my "concerns" were. I told her I was going through a rescue because I wasn't willing to financially support breeders, and she responded with this: quote:I'm going to be up-front with you.... and may be why the rumor on lynx....you can make your decision from there and hate me if you will... several years ago I got into showing and breeding long hair guinea pigs ...I'm of the belief that I give them the very best of care even having surgery on boys with stones...ect ect any animals I 'produce' are sold or given away (never sold to brokers or pet stores) always with the last statement being if it doesn't work out they come back to me...I'm ultimately responsible for care for the rest of their lives... having said that...I also feel as a responsible breeder that I need to give back to the rescues that 'clean up' after irresponsible pet owners and breeders. so I started volunteering with tiny paws I was laid off from work and helped her with cleaning ect but once i got called back to work that wasn't possible so I told her I would foster the guinea's especially the pregnant ladies so they could have a good start... I'm guessing that is how this rumor started along with a person that got disgruntled with <name>... the piggies that are posted are tinypaws pigs not mine.. so you can decide if you want to adopt one or not.. I'm just trying to help out the rescue the best I can. I'm not a pet person breeding my animals I'm very careful studying pedigree's ect ect you may or may not agree with me I'm of the belief that without responsible breeders there would not be any guinea pigs (oops forgot about the irresponsible pet people and pet stores) and all we can really do is closely monitor those that purchase and adopt.. the vast majority of all animals in rescue come from pet people who lost interest with a responsibility they chose to take on... hope you understand and don't hold a grudge on the rescue for what I choose to do... please let me know if you wish to continue... Thanks <name> (as a side note...as a breeder I have turned away many perspective owners including a veterinarian because I felt they were not good enough homes) Names removed to protect the not-so innocent. Yeah, huge block of text in nothing but run-on sentences with terrible spelling and grammar. Why are all terrible home breeders like this?? Needless to say I won't be going through them for any adoptions. Sirotan fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Jan 3, 2011 |
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Jan 3, 2011 19:04
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alucinor posted:I guess my point, if there is one, is that if you're willing to go across states to find other pigs, that's awesome. But if not, and IF the rescue can prove that the animals you would be adopting are not from a breeder - I'd say it's no harm in considering it. They should quite easily be able to provide you with some pigs for whom they have a paper trail leading back to local shelters or owner surrenders or whatever. I have gotten pigs from breeders in the past, I don't think all breeders are automatically terrible just because they are breeders. My main problem with this "rescue" is how much they are misrepresenting themselves. When I do a search for them over at Guinea Lynx and find some bad juju on them I just get a bad feeling about the whole thing. That woman's run-on rambling disaster doesn't really help their case either. I guess despite what I wrote before I haven't completely written off the rescue. The woman I was talking to told me about another pig they had available that wasn't on Petfinder yet and I asked specifically if she was from a breeder or a rescue, and that is what got this whole ball rolling. I've asked twice now point-black where she came from and both times she was evasive in her responses and never told me. IF they could prove to be she isn't coming from a breeder I would definitely consider adopting her but at this point I'm not sure I can trust what they are telling me, quite frankly.
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Jan 3, 2011 19:55
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alucinor posted:Nope, usually that just means WHERE IS MAH PELLETS. My long-haired malcontent does this CONSTANTLY. I have a food bowl like this one, with pigs on it:  and her favorite thing in life (there aren't many, she hates people, being held, etc) is to stand there in her cage and pick the bowl up by her teeth and then drop it down again. Over and over and over and over and over............
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Jan 12, 2011 16:59
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Over the years and the multiple variations on cages that I've made, I've found some good ways to make pig cages quieter: 1) Use fleece for bedding. They have nothing to throw around or run through and the towels/fleece muffle the sound of the running around This is really a great solutions for noise, your wallet, your allergies, pig respiratory systems, and so many other things. 2) Use a water bottle that DOESN'T use a ball bearing and a vacuum seal as its mechanism. There's really nothing noisier than a pig whacking at a water bottle. 3) If your pig likes to move around his food bowl all day, use a heavy ceramic bowl that they can't move.
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Jan 19, 2011 18:37
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If this little enclosure connected to anything else, like a system of Habitrail cages, etc? Because if not that cage looks awfully small to house a hamster and he is probably trying to escape all the time because he is bored to death living in a little tiny box. I'm no hamster expert but maybe you or your girlfriend should consider a larger cage instead of trying to hamster-proof his current habitat.
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Jan 28, 2011 21:29
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She's just freaked out to be in a new place and OH GOD WHATS THAT THING IN THE SKY ITS GOING TO EAT ME It would do Daphne well to get her a friend. 
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Feb 1, 2011 06:00
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alucinor posted:Bad news: If you have a male, you should do the butt and sheath cleaning like once a week, maybe once a month at the very least. And this right here is why I only have female pigs. That and I just can't stand looking at their balls. 
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Feb 2, 2011 15:37
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The thing I would definitely worry about the most is them going into gut stasis. Luckily it hasn't happened to my pigs in quite a while but every time I've ever had it happen on a pig it has come suddenly enough that if I had been gone for more than a day they would have surely died. (Even when I was there sometimes it was too late.) I am not trying to scare you, and yes the probability that nothing at all will happen if you just leave them enough food and water is probably pretty high, but if they were my pigs I would be sure to arrange for someone to come and check on them at least once a day.
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Feb 7, 2011 19:24
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SuperJa posted:Don't be alarmed at the cage shots- I haven't used it for months now. I've somehow lucked out and gotten pigs that only pee in one corner and don't chew anything that isn't food or cardboard, so they wander freely now. They're a ton happier than they were before and I enjoy coming home to have small pigs doing laps around my feet. drat I wish I could do that. My two pigs are like ying and yang: one poops incessantly when you take her out of the cage, and the other is a nervous pee-er. If they get any uncorralled floor time at all it has to be very brief and the nervous one gets watched like a hawk. If I see any butt wagging its back into the cage you go! Super cute pics btw.
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Feb 23, 2011 21:19
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cat with hands posted:No but seriously, there's still some in the urine, right? One of my pigs will eat the coroplast their cage is made of even if there is a pile of nice fresh hay 6" away. It doesn't mean they like the taste, it means they're kinda dumb and will chew on everything.
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Feb 25, 2011 01:58
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I don't think you should be freaking out, but you should be concerned. Freaking out would be when they are acting listless, not eating and there's no sign of them passing urine/stools. How do you know he has been urinating more if he is living with another pig? The only way you can know for sure is to isolate the potentially ill pig so that you can measure all their input and output. A 'raspy' voice could potentially be nothing. Do you weigh your pigs weekly? Whats his weight like, is it up or down? If there's been no change then I wouldn't be in freak out mode yet. There are a lot of serious illnesses that can hit pigs, but if he is still eating and drinking you're not at a point that you need to be rushing to the e-vet.
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Mar 18, 2011 13:01
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Ok guinea pig people, help me out here. I've got two pigs right now, and my oldest bestest sweetest pig ever is approaching 6 years old this May. I just moved and when I did a built a new pig cage which is huge and looks sad and empty with only two pigs in it. My concern though is with my grandma pig. I don't want to stress her out if I were to get some young whipper-snapper in there with her. Should I be worried? Is six too old for new introductions? The senior citizen:
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Mar 24, 2011 20:07
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alucinor posted:Nope, unless she has a history of being difficult with younger pigs. I've regularly shuffled and reshuffled my old singles in with younger pairs, with no problems. An extra large cage should make it even easier for them to come to an agreement. Awesome. So here is the pig in question:  Photo is from the craigslist ad. Its been shocking to me how difficult its been just to find a pig to potentialy adopt. If there are rescues nearby they have only males, or it turns out that they are run by people that are breeding them at home and then misrepresenting themselves in their ads. A few months ago I even emailed a place that was in Illinois near Chicago because they had a TON of pigs that needed homes and I was told they wouldn't let me adopt because I lived in Michigan. 
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Mar 25, 2011 00:54
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Glasgow posted:Have you tired petfinder? A lot of their listings are from city shelters, so you know they're not breeding. Yeah, I checked off and on. That's actually how I found the breeder-posing-as-rescue woman. Most of the time what I'd find there would be males, bonded pairs (I really only have space for one more), or pigs 2+ hours away. Of course now that I finally found someone off craigslist a new pig 15min away pops up as of today.  As it is I'm going to have to drive 3 hours roundtrip to pick up this pig. I wonder if they'll drop the $10 rehoming fee if I tell them how much gas I just used to get to their house....
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Mar 25, 2011 18:26
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So the new pig's got a bit of a dandruff problem. Nothing really that serious, no worse than the dadruff I've seen on some of my other pigs from time to time. She also doesn't seem to scratch herself much at all and her coat is very full and healthy looking. I was thinking I'd just give her a bath since she might have dry skin, but I guess having dandruff could be a sign of mites. I'm not THAT concerned but since I am about to introduce her to my other pigs I'd like to be extra careful what I could potentially expose them to. I could take her to the vet and pay $60 + med cost or I could pay $2.79+ shipping for a tube of ivermectin and treat her myself. Since it doesn't look like there is any downside to treating with ivermectin even if she doesn't have mites, is there any reason I shouldn't go ahead and do this?
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Mar 28, 2011 20:39
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Crackerman posted:It's called Bio-Lapis, it's to help the bacteria in his stomach. I tried putting some of the water with the powder in it on my finger for him to smell and he literally recoiled before running and hiding, so clearly he's not a fine. I've noticed some mild diarrhoea today and he's doing a lot of sitting in the corner. Do you have a second pig? If so throw out that power poo poo and feed him the dissolved poops of the healthy pig. Force feed it to him and leave his water alone so he will be drinking it. And read this: http://www.guinealynx.info/probiotics.html Honestly I hardly ever treat with probiotics if I have a pig on antibiotics unless I notice the consistency of their poops changing or any other behavior change. You might not need to give it to him at all.
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Apr 5, 2011 14:11
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If he isn't drinking or passing stools this is extremely serious. There are drugs that can aid in motility and I would recommend you bring him to a vet AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. I really cannot stress enough how serious this is. Guinea pigs don't stop eating because they are sulking, its because they aren't feeling well and there is an underlying cause.
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Apr 5, 2011 14:27
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Crackerman posted:Yeah I had a feeling it was more serious than that. He'll eat if I actually hand feed him, but he's not coming out to eat on his own. I've got an appointment with the vet in about 45 minutes, I'm just sort of preparing for the worst really. I wouldn't count him out yet. I've brought many a pig back from the brink with aggressive force feeding and Reglan (a motility drug), antibiotics and pain killers.
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Apr 5, 2011 15:20
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alucinor posted:The lack of drinking makes me think stones. Get the X-ray. If there are stones, small ones can be flushed, large ones can be surgically removed, but you may need to find an exotics specialist to do either. If you do that you'll need to get the vet to give you a bag of lactated ringers and teach you how to give subcu fluids. You also probably need some critical care for syringe feeding. Are you weighing him weekly? How's his weight compared to how it's been over the last 4-6 months? You'll want to weigh twice daily during this illness to be sure your feeding and fluids are maintaining a good weight. I just made an appointment to take my almost-6 pig into the vet for this very reason. Squeaking while peeing, has been passing a little blood. I'm treating with antibiotics right now and crossing my fingers that its just a UTI but I've spent the day reading all about bladder stones and now I've convinced myself that that's probably the cause. But otherwise she is acting fine, eating fine, hasn't lost weight but I haven't weighed her in a few days. Crossing my fingers here since my current record on piggy surgery is 1-1. 
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Apr 5, 2011 18:01
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Dang. I've only ever had one pig that just got old and dropped dead one day. That's always my biggest fears with these guys, that they have something happen to them and suffer before they die or I have them euthanized. I feel like every time I have a pig that dies/could die I really question whether I should continue to own guinea pigs or not. I get extremely attached and emotional about them and wonder if I should just get a dog or something instead. They just live so much longer. And your post made me decide to bump up my vet appointment from Thursday to today. I will probably feel better knowing one way or the other versus waiting two days and agonizing the entire time.
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Apr 5, 2011 18:53
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Bladder stone.  Vet gave it a 50-60% chance she can pass it herself. Now to completely overload her with fluids for 2-3 weeks and decide how radically I will change her diet and hope its gone on the next x-ray.
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Apr 5, 2011 23:12
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alucinor posted:Sorry to hear that, good luck. Yeah I'm going to dramatically reduce the pellets. I don't think I can completely eliminate them. I read on Guinea Lynx that the Oxbow Cavy Cuisine is suspect in regards to stone formation so I've already ordered the user-recommended KM Hayloft pellets. I'm not planning on doing the subcue injections at this point but will be dramatically increasing fluids. Any recommendation for something other than water our maybe cranberry juice? 200cc seems like a hell of a lot too. Even 100cc seems like it will be a challenge. I really don't know what the norm us for fluid intake for a 1kg pig but I'm going to try to shoot for 100cc/day starting tomorrow. I can't see that it will hurt really, she is just going to get really loving annoyed with me. To complicate this whole thing of course is I have the newly adopted pig and they were all going to start living together this week. 
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Apr 6, 2011 02:28
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alucinor, how long did you maintain the 150-200cc of daily subcue liquid? Until you could confirm the stone had passed? Did you have a maintenance amount of fluid you would give after the fact or did you just rely on fluids they would drink on their own & from veggies?
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Apr 6, 2011 16:13
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alucinor posted:Did you actually get to see the X-ray? If so, how big was the stone, or was it multiple small stones? I've mostly had luck with them passing it themselves if it's multiple tiny grains about the size of salt crystals. With rice or pea sized stones, my vet has always wanted to flush them manually, by inserting a catheter and filling the bladder with lube, basically. It's a lot harder but at least you know it's done at that point. I did see the xray, its just one stone, pretty round. I don't know that I'd call it pea-sized, we didn't actually measure it. If I had to guess I would say slightly bigger than a pin head. The vet just eyeballed it and told me it was borderline of whether she thought she could pass it or not. Gave me a 50-60% probability she could pass it on her own. I asked about flushing the bladder since I had read quite a bit about it on GL and she told me she had never done it or heard of anyone doing it. She is kind of young and I think she is a new vet at the practice (only saw her since my regular vet is on vacation this week, go figure), so I guess she just isn't familiar with the practice. She seemed skeptical that it was even possible so I'm going to get a message to my usual vet about it when she is back next week. Certainly this is the road I would prefer to go down vs surgery if she cannot pass it on her own. Edit: Oh, and she also told me if I can keep it from growing, since she doesn't seem to have much discomfort from it being in there that we could leave it in and just keep her on a maintenance dose of AB and Metacam it it ever seems to start bothering her again. I guess I'm skeptical on whether this is a safe option or not but she assured me it was and the incidence of bladder rupture or a plugged urethra was relatively rare. Sirotan fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Apr 6, 2011 |
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Apr 6, 2011 18:06
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Basketofpancakes posted:My poor guinea pig refuses to eat anything. He stopped eat hay almost entirely 3 weeks ago, and ~7 days ago began eating very little of anything. I've never had a pig that liked the taste of critical care which is why you have to force feed it to them. You cannot rely on them simply eating it on their own. The whole reason we use critical care is because they AREN'T eating on their own. Its no fun for pig or human but you have to do it and a lot of times its a matter of life or death. If he is still not eating well you need to continue to force feed him. Do not stop. How exactly did the vet examine him? Was an x-ray taken? Any sort of blood work? Urinalysis? You can't identify everything going on with a pig just from a visual inspection. Honestly I would try to find a second vet for another opinion. From what you wrote I'm not sure the person you saw has had much experience with guinea pigs.
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Apr 9, 2011 13:46
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