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If I need a new engine for a 2002 9-5 2.3t wagon, where do I get one for a reasonable cost? I drained the oil of my new car and it was full of metal, and the oil light comes on at idle once the engine is hot. I replaced the sender, cleaned the oil pickup (where I found a large flake of metal) and the oil light still comes on. The seller sold it to me as having a bad sender, and I believed him, for some reason. It has one of those oil pressure gauges on the oil filter, and it didn't show a pressure drop, but the metal in the oil kinda takes steam out of the "the engine is still ok" theory.
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Jan 14, 2010 18:46
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 21:24 |
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ssh posted:Yes, we are. Depending on the model and how you can squirm, getting a tiny mirror and flashlight up under there can be done pretty swiftly. Each model is a slightly different case by case, though. How do you get a flashlight into the oilpan? Pop all the bolts of of one side? the 02 9-5 sport combi I have has some sludge, but also has oil pressure troubles. Id like to limp this motor for as long as possible, so I have to keep the pickup clean. When I got it, there was a bunch of crap plugging the pickup, along with chips of metal. Its coming up on its first oilchange now, (2k miles after the pan removal) and Id like to see if more bits of metal are sticking to the pickup or that was just from the turbo making GBS threads itself.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:57
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ssh posted:Obviously not a full size flashlight. Sorry, i was just wondering where you go in through. I guess the drain plug? Maybe its a good reason to get one of those "cameras on a stick" that they sell at home depot/harbor fright. The oil light comes on at idle after 20 minutes on the highway to get the motor all hot. I got tired of being scared of the dinging so I unplugged the sensor (after putting a brand new one in of course, hoping it was just a faulty sensor). It has one of those crap-rear end oil filter sandwich gauge that never goes below maybe 0.8 bar, but thats down at the bottom of the motor and the sensor is up at the top. Im not sure whats going to be cheaper, pulling the motor now and doing the bearings before it goes completely, or just finding a long block later. I also tryed to trade it in on something else, but they were going to give me $2500 and I had just paid $6.5k to buy it and bring it up into canada from the states. I figure I might be able to get a new motor for the 4k that I would be losing and end up with a car I like and somethign that will last.
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Apr 16, 2010 19:36
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ssh posted:Easiest place is the drain plug, yes. That's where I went. Since the dummy light goes off, you've got problems. I'd try to scope it and take a look; lord knows how much damage is already done. The saab must have heard me talking about it so it spun its bearings and died. I am now looking for a rebuilt motor, and does anyone have a guide for easy engine removal? The WIS suggests coming out through the bottom, but I don't have enough lift to get the motor out. Im going to attempt the old take things apart until I can pull the motor out the top.
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Apr 18, 2010 01:46
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Method Loser posted:I was going to say, sounds like your engine is in it's final stages of death, what with NO oil pressure (light) and metal in the oil. There's no way to get out of a situation involving these two symptoms without lots of new engine/rebuilding engine. Hoping that metal was just from the turbo was, well, optimistic. At best. Good luck, I guess. Ya I figured this out when I found the metal in the oil, but that was after I had bought the car and brought it home across the border. I am stuck with this saab-shaped elephant now. I would love to take the engine out of the bottom but I can't get the car up high enough. Tomorrow will tell I guess, Ill see how much I can take apart.
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Apr 18, 2010 06:39
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blindjoe posted:Ya I figured this out when I found the metal in the oil, but that was after I had bought the car and brought it home across the border. I am stuck with this saab-shaped elephant now. Ok, the motor came out the top pretty easily. Took about 5 hours, and now its sitting on a tire in my garage. The hard part is finding something to replace it with. The local guys want $2500 for an engine that they won't warrenty if I install it myself, guys in the states want $2k for an engine I would have to ship somewhere, and then who knows if the warrenty is good if I install it myself. Turns out people with normal cars have plenty of options, the rebuilders sell complete engines with 2 year warrenties, even if you install them yourself. If you own a saab however, you are poo poo out of luck. The local guy will rebuild it for me, he said $1300 labor plus parts, and his parts book doesn't list anything. I looked on line, and it looks like oversized pistons are $300 each, and everything else is just as rediculous. I have no idea what to do at this point but hide in a closet and cry 
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Apr 21, 2010 23:22
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stipud posted:Do you have the 4 cyl? If so, you can use a short block off a '94+ Saab 9000, while using the 9-5 head and timing cover. Generally you can get a 9000 block for only a few hundred dollars, and they are far more robust than the 9-5 equivalent (forged pistons, etc). A lot of people swap to them after blowing their 9-5 bottom ends with big turbos. O wow, I have the B235 2.3. Guess I am on the prowl for a 9000 block now. Thanks!
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Apr 22, 2010 00:41
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Nuclear Tourist posted:I'll definitely be changing the oil regularly. According to its service book it had its oil + oil filter replaced in october last year, so I suppose it's about time again soon. Drop the pan and clean out the sludge. My new motor hadn't been done, and it had tonnes of junk in the cone shaped pickup. Ill be dropping the pan again after another oil change to make sure its all gone.
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Jun 4, 2010 06:56
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The alarm in my 9-5 wagon also goes of once in a while, but only for a few seconds. I get service alarm on the SID almost every time I start the car. I pulled the alarm to replace the caps/batteries, but the caps have been done and the batteries read 3V. I resoldered the joints and put it back in. No change. Any other suggestions, or do I have to pay to get a Tech2 scan done? Also, I believe they can turn off the shift up light off with the tech2, is that true?
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Jul 31, 2010 08:49
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ssh posted:You're still going to want to replace the batteries. I'd suggest you check for cold solders, but, you've already done this. Couple of hours? blarg. Oh well, I guess a few hundred bux is better then the alarm going off once in a while.
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Aug 1, 2010 08:15
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http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190466 What I did this weekend: Fuel pump edition
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Aug 3, 2010 05:49
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ssh posted:That's an absolutely awesome hack on the removal tool. Now you probably need to do a memory seat airbag repair. I haven't seen anything older than an '05 without this being broken. Cheap loving clips. Well, thats 1 thing that my saab doesn't have wrong with it yet. Also, it started up ok this morning, so I might have fixed something.
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Aug 3, 2010 19:16
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Viggen posted:Yeah. It's drat trivial to fix, too. You just need to pull it out and replace the battery (need a <$10 soldering iron if you don't have one). Just so you know, I tried twice to fix mine, both with new caps and a battery pack of 4 AA lithiums. The alarm kept going off on its own (what will happen if you leave the STA long enough), so I got BBA to rebuild mine. It only cost $70 or something after shipping, and now I have no STA and no alarm going off in the middle of the night. Supposedly the battery isn't the problem, or is the problem because you can't buy them, or something. I don't know, nor do I care anymore.
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Feb 22, 2011 02:49
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Viggen posted:I assume that you did the math on the drain; I just don't see 4 AA liths holding for too long without being recharged. I've fixed one, and only one, but never had a problem with it (I turned chirp off to save minimal drain as well). Interesting to know, though. I used BBA to fix a SID for me, because I knew there was no way I was going to end up with a good result when I saw the ribbon half-shorn. Well, they were those long lasting lithium aa's, not rechargables. The CR17335se doesn't have the right discharge curve, all the guys who bought them had STA again in a few months. Hopefully you bought a few spares and like resoldering. Some people have had more success by just changing the caps and leaving the orginal batteris I hate fixing poo poo more than a few times, so after two attempts I just sent it in and got my warrenty. Ive got a spare now that was chopped open by the PO, then had a battery pack soldered in by me, then had the capacitors changed, and then had the wrong size caps soldered in by accident if anyone needs a book end or a place holder. The alarm part still works, but STA regardless. Maybe if someone needs a core?
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Feb 24, 2011 00:28
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I have to figure out where my power has gone. I have the girlfriends 9-5 today and I couldn't get it to do any burnouts. Is the turbo needle supposed to go into the red? Mine sits at the edge of the yellow. I know it doesn't really mean anything, but it should reflect something, shouldn't it?
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Jun 14, 2011 22:18
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Viggen posted:First of all, what year, and LPT or HOT? 2002 9-5 linear. The needle sits all the way through yellow and sits right at red. It seems slow, but maybe I am expecting too much. It does have a mitsubishi turbo on it instead of the normal one, and it hasn't had a reflash or anything. I need to figure out how to get open sid, and buy an ecu so I can put the header on it.
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Jun 14, 2011 23:09
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Viggen posted:Well, a TD04 with G17 logic ain't gonna do a hell of a lot. It's functioning as it's supposed to, and the dumb-boost gauge is saying you're getting proper pressure for the LPT, so, I'd start with that; you may still be low pressure, but, well, no poo poo - you sure are now. PCV #6 installed. I also swapped the engine, and done all maintenance that everyone says that needs to be done. I'm keeping my spare engine just incase this one sludges up again or chews through another set of main bearings. Any suggestions on the easiest/cheapest way to get reprogrammed?
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Jun 14, 2011 23:20
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Viggen posted:On my 2K, CR17335SE is a direct match to what was in there. I tried putting new batteries in, didn't work. Just got it rebuilt by the company on ebay (search first, there is a douche who doesn't do it right) and haven't had any problems.
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Jan 10, 2012 18:28
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Even if I provide the dealer with the vin number they can't make a key or order one? With no keys, you have to be able to get into the car, take the TWICE/DICE unit out and get a new one. They are ~2k, if you can get one any more. Then you need to get the new units coded to the ecu. The dealer can't and never could do anything once the keys were lost as the twice unit can't be recoded to keys without having one. That would be an expensive car because not only do you need 2k worth of stuff just to start it, then you finally get it started and figure out why the owner "lost" the keys to begin with.
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Jul 30, 2012 17:51
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My B235E also had a turbo gauge. 2002, had "LINEAR" on the door sills. Not an aero. In mine, the turbo died and it ate all its oil. When the guy sold it to me, it had a new turbo, but would get oil light flickering after 30 minutes of driving, at low idle. This happened to me on my way home from buying it at the border lineup, 200 miles away. When they do that, its the big end bearings, and its unfixable. No one has been able to put new bearings in and have the engine live. I replaced it with a wrecker engine and some relatives are still driving it today, this happened at 120k miles. It will need new shocks etc soon, at 170k miles.
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Nov 22, 2012 02:10
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I had one completely die because it cracked and all the oil leaked out. My wife tried to leave in the morning and the car was only running on 2-3 cylinders. Pulled the cassette out and there was oil on the spark plugs and white around the crack where the arcing was happening. Put one in from eeuroparts and was away to the races.
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Jan 18, 2013 18:23
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West SAAB Story posted:I've never seen a cracked 55559955 that wasn't overtorqued or dropped. Strange weather patterns or any other reason for it to just magically poof overnight? I'm not claiming that hasn't happened. I've just never SEEN that happen before. Cracked at the plug area, down the bottom. Ran ok for a few months then died. It was a common(?) enough occurance on Saabcentral that I could find a thread about it. Who knows, it could have been dropped during the engine swap, but it ran for months before it died.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:33
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No idea, from my 2002 linear. don't think it was stock.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:35
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 21:24 |
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Service Theft Alarm is probably siren batteries, and capacitors in the siren. I tried to fix it myself, but ended up getting some ebay rebuilder guy to do it. I would suggest ebay rebuilder myself, as part of the problem was cutting into the housing to get at the guts probably broke it. If the batteries die enough, then the siren will go off to tell you. Usually in the middle of the night, and you can't stop it until you unplug the siren. Its many minutes to get behind the fender liner.
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Feb 11, 2016 01:19
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