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That is a beautiful 9000; I'm jealous. Let me know when you decide to sell it next week to get a 9-5.  Edit: I give up.. why's it crying? Thought that was just artifacting (bad video drivers here), but.. what the hell is with the black strips at the bumper? ssh fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Nov 23, 2009 |
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Nov 23, 2009 20:02
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Francis Baconator posted:Well, not totally sure what you're referring to, but it could be due to the wash I had given it before taking it for a drive. The other thing it could be is the "accordian" part of the bumper. I think that's part of the safety design or something. Yep, the accordian is usually hidden more than that. I've only seen one other red with the 'teardrops' showing, but it is a CSE - maybe that was normal? Don't see too many SAABS in these parts. Here's one I almost grabbed, but I got a newer 9-5 for less than a quarter of the price, so I nabbed it, instead:  Ok, you can keep it for TWO weeks. Maybe even three since this is a holiday week. 
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Nov 23, 2009 20:32
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Nuclear Tourist posted:Uh-oh. Looks like Koenigsegg is bailing out of the Saab deal. I wonder what will become of Saab now? Probably sold to the chinese for pocket change, I'd imagine. Well I know someone whose getting drunk tonight, even if there is hope (there probably isn't). Nothing like a US-Government backed company to take longer than six months to say 'we still want to abuse the technology, but..'
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Nov 25, 2009 01:53
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The Sicilian posted:Hahahahaha, "abuse the technology"? Any and all technology developed by Saab is already in use by other platforms. GM isnt the one loving around with the sale Koenigsegg is. A limited production supercar maker although swedish, was never a great buyer. Keep on raging against the GM machine though man, you might just sound like you have some sort of an idea whats going on eventually. I disagree. That's why I stated GM bought SAAB, but they still want the rights to pick the carcass clean. GM likely just wants the rights to continue to use any/all of SAAB's technology they obtained through perpetuity and Koenigsegg finally said "Ya know what? gently caress this." So, what color is your camaro?
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Nov 25, 2009 02:24
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ab0z posted:In this economy, $50 don't get you much I hate you. I really, really hate you. I've spent more on my battery. Good luck; if that tranny is slipping, I'll give you $20 for the car. I like silver SAABs, but white can work, too.
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Nov 25, 2009 04:40
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ab0z posted:It's silver (don't know if that's clear based on my horrible pictures). Trans seems fine, if you stomp on it it'll kick down right away. Seems to hang on the upshifts at light throttle, but this is the first auto I've driven in 5 years so I can't really say if it's normal. It looked silver, but I wasn't sure. NG900 and C900 trannies are difficult to find on the west coast right now; I'd baby the living hell out of it. If shifting is slow, you might want to check for vaccuum and sludging - but the 900 wasn't a big issue for sludging. They're temperamental, but theat them right, and they'll last you for years. Check out SAABnet - there are great folks there always willing to help.. as long as it isn't a 'blinker fluid' level question. E: Threat is not treat 
ssh fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Nov 25, 2009 |
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Nov 25, 2009 04:48
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ab0z posted:So you're saying when it's saying I'm making yellow PSI I might only be making green PSI? Are these gauges known to fail in a way that causes them never to read in the red zone? Does this system coordinate with the homeland security color system? They can be funky, you may tickle red, but it's not going to stay there. That's precisely why you need the PSI. 12.3psi is standard 'high'; I've seen 7 around medium - but honestly, you want to go over to saabnet.com chat at about 7PST and talk to mike9 or SaabTech. Given the age, and basic history they can give you much better ideas than these 'out of my rear end from spec' number. My old 9-5 doesn't even have a goddamn boost gauge, and I've been too lazy to tear into the instrument panel to put one in it. 
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Dec 18, 2009 22:34
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ab0z posted:Saabnet.com - seems a little expensive... I wish they had a cheap option that didn't include a tshirt and whatnot. I just need occasional tech info on the car, I'm not joining a family. Maybe they'll do a discount because GM can't keep Saab's doors open? You don't have to join. Chat and basic forums is free.
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Dec 18, 2009 22:54
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ab0z posted:Ok I see that now, thanks. I just looked for a signup page and the first one I came to was asking for a bunch of money. Only if you want picture hosting and other mostly-worthless poo poo are you required to pay for it. Most of us just pony up the $50 for 2 years out of 'Well, this has saved me a ton of money by doing it myself.' Enjoy your SAAB ownership. Edit: You were still 4 hours early.
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Dec 18, 2009 22:59
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ab0z posted:haha you stalker You didn't get a manual? Pity. There are marks on it, but yes, it holds about 4.1. Also, here's a {not really accurate} gauge for your boost.
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Dec 23, 2009 20:48
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bung posted:The fiancée has a 2004 9-3 Aero with a problem. How many miles has she been riding on your DIC?  If that's original, it may very well be time to replace it. As they're about $200, I'd take it to your nearest indy and get an assessment; I do NOT suggest loving with it yourself.
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Dec 28, 2009 01:55
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ab0z posted:Well I guess I'm a Saab guy now. Drove my $50 900se from Michigan to the west side of Iowa and back.. That's going to be the most expensive $50 you have ever spent. I'll offer $200 to take it off your hands now.. but you need to deliver it mid-winter. Karl Barks posted:Does anyone know where I could get some information on how the wind shield squirter tubes are set up in a 9-3? When they repaired my car they left them all unplugged and driving around in this salty iced road poo poo is making my windshield white. Those are a bitch. If you want the 'easiest'/'unofficial' way to do it, I suggest talking to mike9 on SAABNet. Guy's unorthodox, but gets it done with a third of the issues by doing it the 'proper' way. Spent like 1/2 an hour loving with mine to get the hoses back in.
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Dec 28, 2009 20:56
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ab0z posted:Cost me $150 to register and tag it. Plus, it has 2 new tires on it now (thanks, well-off father in law) I can get a $500 local without the damage. If you find me a Sonnet, though, I'll pay the $500 to pick it up myself. Love your new money pit - you will do one of three things: 1) Learn to work on, and obsess about it like a maniac. 2) Pay someone else to deal with the expensive pile of crap oh god it sucks but driving it is so nice. 3) Sell it on to the next sucker after investing a few grand. Or, you can do them in that order. It's like a Choose your own Adventure: SAAB Edition. I already have almost 2k put in above the $2k I spent for my 2k fixer-upper. 4 tires, DIC, wireing, PCV upgrade, replacement turbo.. these beasts get expensive. That reminds me, I need to get a heater switch so my butt warms up this winter.
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Dec 28, 2009 22:30
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ab0z posted:What is a good saab specific source for parts? One of the cheapest for new parts (oem) is saabpartsusa.com; you can also dig through saabnet and find the non-oem parts or used on the cheap. Trust me, after doing some work, option 2 will seem less of a "You're kidding, right?" option. If you get that cleaned up and everything right, it's not going to be a big booster, but it'll hold it's own - and they're awesome on snowy mountain passes. A nice warm butt, and 80MPH uphill going sideways. Whatdya expect for $50?
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Dec 29, 2009 00:59
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kimbo305 posted:did the 9-5's 2.3 engine have any of the issues the 9-3's did? The B205 & B235 were not without their issues; sludging being the most common from '98 to '03. Make drat sure you get the PCV update if you decide on one. That said, I have 167k on my 2K 9-5, and other than a general rebuild and a replaced turbo (former owner hosed it and started to sludge), I've had zero complaints other than the little 'click' in the vents in the console, and the ever-common SID pixel problem.
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Jan 12, 2010 21:49
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Where'd you get an SID repair for $50? Time to take the beasts in to get them checked out - my 2K's T7 isn't up to date and only one guy I know of locally has a Tech2 w/ goodies and can flash me up. Thinking of going all Stage 1 minus the turbo on it. I think I somehow fried my brakes on my 2K8. They always, always squeak for the forst few pumps even with clean, topped off fluid w/ no leaks. I have under 10k on this set, but this car's harder to stop than the 2K, and all I replaced on that were the back pads and rotors. All looks OK, but beyond my ability to further diagnose from here. Grr.
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Jan 25, 2010 22:29
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Mcqueen posted:Sure you didn't get some air in the lines when you were changing the fluid? 2K8's still the original. 2K was changed and is perfect; I bled and clipped. It's the 'new' car that's having the issues. Again, under 10k on it and it did go up near Canada and back down, but can't find any excuse for it..
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Jan 26, 2010 02:20
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Mcqueen posted:I read it that you topped off the fluid in your 2008. Could it be possible that air made its way into the fluid? I tried bleeding it, and I got nowhere. Seems unlikely - the only thing that really irks me/makes me feel that something is wrong is that when it's started/ready, the first few presses when in gear, it squeaks like hell - but pressure shows fine and fluid is there. By the 5th time, no racket but still no power. Rotors and all look fine and are thick, pads seem fine. Nearest authorized repair (under warranty) is now 5 hours away and it stops like a goddamn bus.
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Jan 26, 2010 03:48
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Augmented Dickey posted:I've always wanted a Sonett (NOT SONNET) III so loving bad, but apparently they're nearly impossible to find in the states. The ones that aren't just completely rusted through are being rebuilt. You're hosed if you plan on finding one and rebuilding it without spending a fortune for it.
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Jan 26, 2010 03:49
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Petekill posted:Sonetts are loving beautiful, but I don't think I've ever seen one in real life. That's what I get for living in the Midwest. I would love to have one with the B235 Viggen motor shoehorned in. I know someone who is attempting to do this- he's since given up and is trying to stick a manual into in a 9000 Aero he got for a song.
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Feb 6, 2010 01:08
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Mario posted:They turn on when you use the windshield squirter. Consider yourself lucky if they both run and park themselves properly though. Ya know I've heard about these going out - and have seen the expenses people have claimed to have them replaced, but I have a used (10 years old) from SFBA and they have never been replaced. Still seat, and run OK. Then again, so does my heater blower, so maybe I'm just playing with fire.
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Mar 5, 2010 02:24
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Francis Baconator posted:For further reference, there's a site some dude out there made that has piles of useful info on 9000s. If someone knows what it is, post it. If I remember, I'll update this post. TwinSaabs.com for DYI, and Saab9000.com come to mind. SaabNet chat is free, and worth the wait (about 5pm to 10pm PST), but it will be pretty dormant, and you will likely be ignored. It's cliquish, but if you come around once or twice, it's all gravy. SAABCentral isn't bad at times. Have not owned a 9000 yet, myself. Still looking. Silver preferred. In the mean time, here's my 2k 9-5 I rebuilt for a bit of pointless fodder. It had a blown turbo, a few small electrical (relay mostly) gremlins, and a dead SID. Other than a basic rebuild with a new turbo, MAF, PCV #6, NGK plugs, and a complete fluid exchange, it really didn't have much wrong with it. The former owner sludged the poor thing but not irreparable - and it's like new on the inside, and comfier than the 2k6-2k9 models. I don't think I'm even at $5k invested in it, and it's like new on the inside. Here she is rolling 168k the last weekend.
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Apr 13, 2010 18:54
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8ender posted:I'm avoiding the 2000+ 93s due to the sludging issues. Really, it's not that big of a deal if the car hasn't been completely destroyed already. Just use GOOD synthetic and check your intake religiously when you change it every 5k.. can do that with a little dentist mirror in under 1/2 an hour.
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Apr 15, 2010 18:14
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8ender posted:Interesting. Please explain this process a litte more. We're speaking about the intake in the oil pan right? Yes, we are. Depending on the model and how you can squirm, getting a tiny mirror and flashlight up under there can be done pretty swiftly. Each model is a slightly different case by case, though.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:48
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blindjoe posted:How do you get a flashlight into the oilpan? Pop all the bolts of of one side? Obviously not a full size flashlight. Just a high output led penlight attached to a tiny mirror with little bitty wires. You know, something the size of about a pencil with one of those dental-sized mirrors. I just glued the base of the LED at an angle on a pair of broken glasses hinge and used that to manipulate the light in relation to the mirror. No, it didn't work all that great, but it was a hell of a lot more fun than dropping the pan. If you've got pressure issues, I'd strongly suggest you take a look at that pickup now. Also, make sure your light actually works for the pressure gauge. If it turns on when you start the car, you may not be to bad, but I'd religiously change it with redline every 5k miles or so and not wallyworld Mobil1.
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Apr 16, 2010 19:09
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blindjoe posted:Sorry, i was just wondering where you go in through. I guess the drain plug? Maybe its a good reason to get one of those "cameras on a stick" that they sell at home depot/harbor fright. Easiest place is the drain plug, yes. That's where I went. Since the dummy light goes off, you've got problems. I'd try to scope it and take a look; lord knows how much damage is already done. You may as well just go for a colonoscopy; when they're done with the car they can shove it up your rear end. Welcome to our world.
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Apr 17, 2010 00:19
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Nuclear Tourist posted:2000 Saab 9-3. It's gorgeous. Congratulations. You are in the 'sludge' zone. Make sure you've got the PCV update installed. Change your oil more often than every 10k; I change it in my 2k 9-5 about every 5k, at most. Make drat sure your oil light comes on when you first start the car to show that it's working, and if it ever comes on during idle/high revs/etc, it's time to stop driving, immediately. The SID dying is a very common problem, and as you are aware, is quite easy to replace. Edit: Not meant to be a plug, but check out SaabNet. Chat/basic forums are incredibly 1996, but they're free, and invaluable InitialDave posted:This guy has gone pretty Of course it takes a lot of work to gently caress it up (making your own adaptors/etc at times), but do not gently caress with the SaabOpenProg software here unless you have a very understanding dealer nearby with both a Tech2 and spare T-7 equipment. T5Suite/T7suite are considered fairly stable. ssh fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 20:17
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on all the wiring/electronics of that era Saab:
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Does anyone have experience with the SportCombi with the V6? I found one in stick, CPO and the allure is strong. Am I shooting myself in the face if I drop some coin on it? What year, and which V6? The 3.0s had a nasty problem with a nice little leak near the center that would take about 8 hours to disassemble. 2.8s are pretty solid.
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Jun 5, 2010 00:48
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:And yeah, it's the 2.8. Those are pretty solid. Make sure you check all of the records, though. One of the known problems with the 9-3 w/ 2.8 is that the break booster valve doesn't work right, so you won't necessarily stop unless you have that replaced.
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Jun 7, 2010 18:51
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Karl Barks posted:Isn't their an awd sportcombi in the form of that black 9-3 aero special edition thing they released a year ago? I mean there is probably only like 300 of them but they do exist. Also the 9-3x is coming out soon supposedly. There is a Turbo X SportCombi. Not sure if any of them made the states, or not. I've never seen one.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:17
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Petekill posted:I saw a Turbo X at my Saab dealership, and if I remember correctly, the price was north of 40 grand. But with Saab's legendary depreciation, it probably costs about 47 cents now. There was a non-combi here in Reno with sub-10k for $17k a few months ago. I almost considered more debt. I really want a V6 to add to the collection. Hagetaka posted:Yeah, Augusta had one. It sat on the lot for a long time for such a low-number car. I'll be damned. Thanks. I test drove a Lynx in Billings while I was having my under-warranty oil changed while on vacation. That was a peppy little beast. Edit: Talking to a local lady about her 9-3 2.8T Convertible. It's seafoam green, but I can live with that. 
ssh fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jun 8, 2010 |
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Jun 8, 2010 04:30
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Hagetaka posted:So, Akebono ceramic pads:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Been running them in my 2K for 15k. I like them. Haven't had much dust to speak of (just the usual dirt in the desert), and it stops well enough. I had OEM in the 2K8 which were worn/dead by 10k, and have replaced them with Akebono, but it's not quite as happy as the older car is. [Edit: Also featured, my new-to-me oak table.  ]However, though, you are 2K6, same basic as my 2K8. I've been having a hell of a time with my 2K8 with both stock, and Akebono. It stops like a loving tank. Going to bleed it on Thursday and see if I can get any better stopping power. Let me know how you fare. ssh fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Jun 15, 2010 |
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Jun 15, 2010 18:12
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Nuclear Tourist posted:Victory I hope to hell you replaced the lights beneath the sid while you had it out. They may not be dead yet, but they will be. ..unless you're already setup for the LEDs, in which case I hate you for it. Half of my console is dead; I am not looking forward to removing it to replace the, uh.. 43 bulbs.
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Jun 30, 2010 15:52
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Nuclear Tourist posted:Ouch, that must be annoying as hell when you're driving during the night.  Son, do you know how fast you were going? No officer, my speedo is only lit to 75!
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Jun 30, 2010 18:27
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Captain Crunk posted:I managed to finally stuff the TD04 in my car! You haven't reprogrammed it and you stuck the TD04 in it already? You should be able to flash it up - but there may be other things to take into consideration before trying to directly Aeroize it. What's your VIN?
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Jul 2, 2010 23:30
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Hagetaka posted:Out there question- if I wanted to Aero-ize my brakes on my '06 Arc, would it just take the larger rotors and calipers, or would the rest of the system (master/slave cylinder, etc.) need work too? Honestly, I wouldn't bother with that. The new Cermanic/Organic pads are pure poo poo. I had them on my 2K8. I ended up just replacing the pads with the old style Akebonos, and it's a world of difference. Sure, there's more dust and more wear, but the goddamn thing stops in less than a mile. Of course if you want to go hog wild, that's an option too.
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Jul 3, 2010 02:46
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Karl Barks posted:My 1999 Saab 9-3 seems to be having some problems with third gear. Every once and a while, when I pop it into third, I hear what sounds like gears crunching for about a half second. My dad thinks it's the synchronizer starting to die. Is that probable? Anyone else have this issue? It could be syncro. As Dave asked - does it always do it? kimbo305 posted:Anyone worked on the antenna in a 98-03 9-3? I thought I had WIS for this, but I can't find it. Your best bet is to hop on SaabNet chat at 5pm-8pm PST/PDT; there's usually at least one person there with WIS and AllData; never dealt with it but the 98-03 is a direct descendant of the NG900 so I don't see it being completely different. However, I have been wrong before.
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Jul 7, 2010 16:37
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onezero posted:Well dammit - anyone ever have their power seat on the driver side quit working? Passenger still works, and no fuses look to be blown, so I'm guessing it's a wiring eff up or maybe a motor went out. (99' 9-3) Yeah. The power seat failed on my 2K. Had the wiring come apart. Do you have memory seats, or not? Some DO have different fuses for driver/passenger. Here's a basic schematic, either way:  I have done minor repair on my ACC (attempt) but after a couple hours, it fades and the pixels still die. Talked to a local guy who works on them and he says it's pointless because those get so warm, they might as well just get replaced.
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Jul 8, 2010 00:03
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keykey posted:I'm looking at getting a 99 Saab 9-b 3.0l v-6 and the only thing that's keeping me from definitely purchasing it is the high beams don't work, my question would be, where can I actually buy parts for this thing at that doesn't charge 1000% more than what parts should regularly cost or is that the price of owning a Saab? The specific part I'm trying to find is the high beam relay. I assume you mean a 9-5 3.0. Keep in mind these are very expensive engines. If it's leaking any coolant, do NOT get this car. It's expensive as hell (mostly in time) to fix. They tend to leak near the center. Not a fun thing, and why I didn't end up with a 2K 9-5 3.0. Your high beams are going to be the orange relay. They all die.  Try pulling it out and giving it a shake. Then reseat. If you can solder you can fix it easily; if not, they're not too expensive. I usually use StateOfNine, or TheSAABSite if I can't find my parts locally. It will help to find and befriend a local Indy. onezero posted:Yeah, memory seats. Thanks for the schematic. Now that I think about it, I've never seen a Viggen without memory seats.
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Jul 9, 2010 17:20
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keykey posted:I checked everything out thoroughly, there isn't a coolant leak, just the high beam issue. For sake of completion though, if it does get a coolant leak, what part needs to be fixed/replaced? I can do all repairs myself so it's going to be free labor anyway. The high beams should be easy. It's always the loving orange relay. Always. Even if the wire and fuses are missing, it's the drat relay. The 3.0L V6’s have an oil cooler mounted between the cylinder heads, sitting in a bath of coolant. This cools the oil circulating thru the oil cooler. The hoses/connectors can leak, and the coolant passages in the valley can leak, too. With the proper gear, you're looking at probably 4-6 hours of labor, minimum. Depending on what you all want to change, the parts average at about $1200 w/o the 'import markup tax'. I don't have WIS available and I'm stuck in a load of conferences, but you're looking at a good weekend's worth of work and about 1/4 of what the car's worth to get it running again.
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Jul 9, 2010 19:14
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