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Someone please tell me I'm not crazy for entertaining this 1995 Saab 900 SE w sunroof, manual, power windows, only 75K miles - $2900 (DC/ NOVA) I'm meeting the owner in 3 hours to check it out. What's crazy is that its so similar to college car 1995 900 SE Turbo 5 spd that met it's sad demise in a snowstorm a few years back. Anything I should be aware of with the V6? Both my previous Saabs were I4's. Edit: Going to meet them today to drive it and check it out, then going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow to have it torn apart before I make a final decision. And my old car from 2007 if anybody remembers my thread 
JayKay fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Dec 6, 2010 |
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Dec 6, 2010 20:26
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Just got back and I'm probably going to pass. My bad idea senses are tingling. The owner definitely overstated the condition of the car. I'd say it's "good" at best. The clutch is mushy and really close to the floor and according to her it's the original clutch. Also there's evidence of oil/gunk in the bottom of the engine compartment. I pressed her about this and she said it was a "oil filter" issue that leaked in the past that was fixed. The timing belts looked good but I wasn't able to determine if the pulleys were replaced or not. The tranny shifted well, no problems finding the gates. It had a smooth idle, nothing noticeable. While buying my 1991 9000 for $900 back in the day was a gamble that payed off, I'm not feeling so hot about this one. I'm contemplating is it even worth it to take it to my mechanic for them to do an inspection. Oh well, too good to be true. 
JayKay fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Dec 6, 2010 |
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Dec 6, 2010 23:38
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This is either Hail damage or this Saabaru was parked on a driving range. http://www.wpaa.net/itemDetail.php?stock=86517 Of course it passed the Hail Damage check on Autocheck.  Viggen posted:You have chosen.. wisely. For that much cash, you can find a not-too-sludged 9-5 from '98-02, and just buy a new turbo and clean it up. They make awesome daily drivers. Any reason you suggest the 9-5 over the 9-3? Also, what would be the sweetspot for $7000? JayKay fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 00:49
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Captain Crunk posted:Gotta say if I had the 5K I would buy that Saabaru in a new york minute! Who cares about the hail damage! I bet it's comfy, nothing technically wrong, and it would be the best rallyX/autoX car ever... I'd be lying if I said I wasn't thinking about it. I would love to get a Saabaru with a stick, I'm just worried that it's a ticking time bomb. Edit: Those aren't from hail damage, it's Sweedish/Japanese Speed Diviots
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Dec 13, 2010 03:35
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Blargh, trying to decide between the Divoted 9-2x 5spd from that auto auction for $4,900 with 101k or a much nicer 9-2X auto with 86k for $8,995. I guess technically the money saved from the Divotmobile could go towards whatever needs to be fixed compared to the auto counterpart.
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Dec 13, 2010 14:34
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In case nobody saw my post in the Subaru thread, I ended up buying that Hail Damaged Saabaru for $4700. Just need to pick up some replacement bulbs, get a few key fobs, and a new shifter knob and I'm set.
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Dec 16, 2010 03:24
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Can anyone confirm or deny that there is no front license plate bracket kit made specifically for the 92x. However I can use a 9-3 bracket, or any generic 2 hole bracket and be fine? From what I've read, the front plate is supposed to be screwed directly into the front bumper. http://www.stateofnine.com/page/stateofnine/PROD/LPBRACKET
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Dec 31, 2010 13:50
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Viggen posted:This is about the only solution I've ever seen for a 9-2x that doesn't involve doing dastardly things to the car. I bought a generic mounting kit for it that I might just screw into the bumper. I'm still considering trying 3M VHB tape for mounting it, but A) I can't find it locally and B) It needs to be 65F+ for application which it's not here and I don't have access to a garage. I'm not a huge fan of the offset kits as the look isn't what I'm going for and the fact they're like $60 bucks (Rho-Kit)
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Jan 9, 2011 03:31
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Nuclear Tourist posted:Lately I've noticed a rapidly pulsing wobble sound from the front right wheel (I think) of my 2k 9-3. It only appears when I'm going 55 mph or above, and the steering wheel tends to vibrate a bit when accelerating above those speeds. I've been driving around on a lot of badly paved roads filled with ice potholes this winter which has knocked the car around quite a bit, so would I be correct in thinking that I need a wheel alignment? Bent rim/unbalanced tire?
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Feb 20, 2011 16:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So even if you bought a Saab before they went bankrupt the first time, your powertrain/corrosion/seatbelt warranties are still gone? There was ever parts channel for the 9-2X?  (not including the Subaru compatible parts)
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Dec 20, 2011 23:57
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I thought since we're driving Saabs, it'd be "Bork Bork!" and not "brrm, brrm,"
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Mar 12, 2012 23:24
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That brings back some memories as the window regulator was one of my first repairs/replacements on my old $900 '91 9000 back in the day.
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Aug 29, 2012 23:41
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Viggen posted:
Haha yeah I remember mine being pretty easy. Just had to pop off the door pannel and I was off to the races. It was a good thing since I had zero experience working on cars. I was armed simply with a Haynes manual and a cheapo starter toolset. I miss my 9000. That thing was beat to hell when I bought it, but it was a great reliable tank for a college student. It had 186k on the clock and I put another 15k on it before I replaced it with a '95 900 SE Turbo. Ended up donating the car to a Saab garage who informed me they parted it out "so that other Saabs would live. " Edit: Dammit this nostalgia trip is making me want to buy another 9000 just to play with. JayKay fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Aug 30, 2012 |
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Aug 30, 2012 07:53
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That reminds me of my old '91 9000 that I bought for $900 10 years ago. 
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Jan 5, 2013 04:20
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I would have bought the crap out of an updated Sonett
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Mar 24, 2013 04:19
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It looks like my Saabaru might be changing hands shortly. I have a coworker who wants to buy it from me to give to his son. It's served me well as a beater commuter wagon. That being said I'm in the market for a cheap beater and I just may have to pick up another Saab. If anybody knows of anyone in the DC area is looking to offload a Saab on the cheap, send them my way!
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Sep 8, 2013 06:19
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Oh great Master of Saabs in the sky, please give me some guidance. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/4061527557.html quote:2002 Saab 9-5 Aero. 4-door. Grey. 5-Speed. Turbo. 145K Miles. Leather htd seats. Sun Roof. New clutch. New front brakes. $2900. Non-smoker. Anything I should be looking for?
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Sep 14, 2013 00:34
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West SAAB Story posted:Get the VIN, call up your former SAAB dealership and be nice with the parts jockey. Ask them to get you an IRIS report (They just need the last 8 digits). That will tell you what was replaced under warranty. I'm currently playing email tag with the seller, just asked him about about some of the issues you mentioned. I figured it was in the Sludger zone . Here's hoping he's a diehard and has kept it in good shape. Either way, I should be going by tomorrow to check it out.Yeah I saw that 96. I'll only buy it if you come out here to get it running. Or you can buy it and I'll give you garage space till you can get it out to the west coast
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Sep 14, 2013 00:58
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Heard back from the sellerquote:1) Do you have the service records available? As long as his records are detailed, I think it should be OK. Not too concerned about the struts/shocks, those seem like a pretty easy fix I can hammer out on a weekend. I'm going to guess he has the PCV #6 done if he got the waterpump done at 110k by Saab, but either way I know what the fix looks like. Pretty happy that he's the original owner, but this is all going to hinge on his records. Anyways, I'm going to go see the car tomorrow morning, get the VIN and go over the records.
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Sep 14, 2013 04:09
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Just got back from test driving the 9-5. Good: -Owner loved this car and was well cared for -Tons of records -Very clean -Decent shape for a 10 year old car -PCV #6 installed -Brand new clutch and slave cylinder installed in the past year Bad: -SID screen is failing -Climate Control module is dim/hard to see -Cup holder is broken  Dealbreaking: -Car has headgasket issues?. According to the records, the car has been in the shop a few times for cooling issues (  ). It's had hoses replaced, thermostat replaced, etc. However most recently in May the records show that it tested positive for exhaust fumes in the coolant system (). There was definetly some evidence of leakage that was plainly visible. I was able to snap a few photos with permission: http://imgur.com/a/js04Q He claims the leaking is fixed and they haven't had issues but my eyeballs tell me otherwise.I would have easily thrown cash at the seller if it wasn't for the apparent headgasket issues. I'm still tempted to throw out a lowball offer, but now I'm very hesitant. Suggestions? As a side note, I had a wave of nostalgia wash over me as I started it up with the center mounted ignition. Oh the memories.  Edit: I'm thinking it's headgasket with the previous cooling issues and exhaust in coolant, but I wonder if it's just valve cover leaking. JayKay fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Sep 14, 2013 |
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Sep 14, 2013 17:23
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From doing some reasearch, it looks like the gasket issue is common/not the end of the world. The overheating/exhaust gas in coolant makes me think headgasket but the location of the leak makes me think valve cover gasket especially since it seems like the 4cyl typically doesn't blow HG's. The valve cover gasket looks like a pretty simple repair. I might need to take a second look at the car and maybe throw out a lowball with the reasoning of the gasket issue and see if he bites.
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Sep 14, 2013 19:35
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So it looks like the 9-5 I posted earlier slipped through my fingers. Probably for the best since it's a wee bit leaky. That being said, I have a new target  http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/4034332403.html quote:2000 Saab 9-5 Aero Sedan, 2.3 Turbo, 4 door, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission, tan leather interior. 126,000 miles. Power windows, heated leather seats in front and back, sun/moon roof, individual temperature controls. Emission passed in June 2013. 2 new tires. I sent the owner my normal SAAB questionnaire and was immediately replied to with a "Call me" So I found out the following about the car: She flat out admitted she's not a car person She has owned it 3 years and only put 13,000 on it. She's the 3rd owner---1st was old dude, 2nd college kid She supposedly has all the records. Synthetic oil has been used ever since she owned it upon recommendation of previous owner, followed suggested maintenance schedule from Saab Indy Central lock system is broken? She said that power locks dont work, have to use hand. Sunroof is broken: Sometimes doesnt close all the way so she keeps it shut. Recently had a blocked AC drain which flooded the car and killed the computer under the seat, she had it replaced. She's been having it serviced at http://imsaab.com/ which is one of the few Saab-centric indy's that still exist in the area. Check engine light is on, mechanic said "a valve needs replaced" and it'll cost around $300. I'm assuming since it's a $300 repairs, it's a small/cheap valve and not an "OMG KABOOM" valve. I fired off an email to her indy to see if I can get more info on the service history and what is really causing the CEL. Any idea what could be causing the central locking issues and if it's something I can fix myself? Edit: Isn't the TWICE unit under the driver's seat? I wonder if the flooding zapped it and that's what got replaced. She mentioned a really expensive computer repair. I'm going to try to check out the car this week and I'm hoping the Indy can shed some light on the car. JayKay fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 02:32
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West SAAB Story posted:Uh, do you know if the keyfob has ever had the battery replaced? I'd start with that if the trunk popper doesn't work. It's a CR-2032 in the slugfob. She is claiming that the center console lock switch isn't working either. I asked her to try unlocking the doors from outside with the 2 turn method to see if it unlocks all the doors however she hasn't gotten back to me yet. But I'll ask her about the batteries. I'm not too concerned about the broken stuff as they all seem like easy fixes I can do on the cheap. I just hope I can verify that maintenance history and that the CEL for a valve is just a minor matter. I've also been in contact with a seller of a 2002 SAAB 9-3, 93K and the owner (2nd) seems to know his stuff, full records, etc. I'm hoping to check out both cars this week.
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Sep 16, 2013 09:30
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Got ahold of her indy and inquired about the CEL. Their records show it was a P0455 which is a generic EVAP system code. So it might be something simple as a bad gas cap or the purge valve needing replacing/cleaning. Either way things are looking good. They however didn't have any info on what computer was replaced/zapped. I still think the central locking issue is due to the TWICE being zapped. If it was the TWICE computer that got zapped, wouldn't it completely immobilize the car?
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Sep 16, 2013 23:02
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West SAAB Story posted:I was thinking that perhaps they did the TWICE is (still?) damaged. Replace the batteries and press unlock on the keys 4 times in semi-rapid succession.. maybe it just forgot its programming? v Yeah I'm going to see if she can send me a copy of the paperwork from when she got it fixed. Apparently her indy International Motors merged with Swedish Motor Cars so the tech I was talking to had to check a few different databases before he found the car . Once I can confirm what was done, I'll go from there. JayKay fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 23:20
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Got ahold of the paperwork from June, it basically said "Carpets are all wet and damaged the TWICE unit, we removed the seats and dried it, replaced the TWICE unit and reprogrammed the TWICE". So now that we know the TWICE was dried/reprogrammed, what would cause the central locking system to stop working? She's said the remotes, center console switch, and the "turn twice in the driver's side door lock to unlock all" do not work. Would a desync'd/dead remote completely KO the locking system like that?
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Sep 17, 2013 22:07
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Ended up buying the '00 9-5 Aero.  Will be picking it up tomorrow.Another quick question about the locks/TWICE. The remotes are still synced as it can arm and disarm the alarm, also the trunk release works from the bananna fob. According to the paperwork the indy said the locks were burned out due to the fact the central locking switch was jammed in the unlock position. I'm assuming I'll need to replace all 4 door lock actuators? The indy had quoted her $1600 to fix it  . I'm figuring it should cost me maybe $200 max sourcing 4 actuators and installing them myself.
JayKay fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 03:18
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The AC was blowing cold on the passenger's side and hot on the driver's side and figured it was the blend door. Did the ACC calibration and got a 1-21 (Recirc motor) and 2-8 (LH blend shaft broken) Dropped the kick panel and 2 different pieces of the Blend Door Lever dropped to the floorboard. Guess I figured out my problem So I now have a new full blend door repair kit on the way along with just a metal arm for the passenger side. I'm guessing that when I pull the recirc motor assembly I'm going to find at least a toasted transistor and probably a few other broken pieces. Edit: Things to fix quote:4x door lock actuators Anyone in VA/DC/MD area want to join me? I'll provide beef and beverages
JayKay fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 22:54
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West SAAB Story posted:Do you mean the front end lamp (as I assume), or the courtesy light? I have my leftover courtesy sidelamps from my 2000, which I had replaced with the clear ones. They cam be yours for shipping (I hate the amber lamps.) Thanks for then offer but you're right, I have to replace the LF corner turn signal assembly. The plastic bracket called it quits and the assembly is being held in by tape. Luckily it's replacement should be here tomorrow. Once that gets fixed I'll be able to wash the car and snap some work in progress photos.
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Sep 21, 2013 03:19
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Just got done installing a replacement driver's font lock actuator and holy poo poo what a pain in the balls. Not to mention as I was reassembling everything, one of the window rollers decides to explode. Fix one thing, break another. 
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Sep 24, 2013 02:59
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Nothing like trying to do an oil change and finding the oil drain plug has gasket sealer on it and is pretty much welded to the pan. . Luckily I was able to finally break it free without dropping the car on top of me. Apparently I hadn't tightened the oil drain plug enough as there was a leak from it after I refilled. However after quickly tightening it more, there still seems to be a very small leak (i.e maybe a drop or 2), and this is with a new drain plug + washer. I did spill a bit when refilling the oil and that is dropping down in same area so I'm not sure if the drops I'm seeing on the ground are from my carelessness or from the drain plug. Either way I'm planning on dropping the sump this coming weekend and I'm not looking forward to it. I also discovered both my front tires have cupped inside edges, guess I need to add new struts to the list.I did however get the LF blend door fixed. JayKay fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Sep 25, 2013 |
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Sep 25, 2013 01:11
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My replacement EVAP check valve arrived today which was installed to go along with a new gas cap from earlier in the week.. P0455 CEL (Major EVAP Leak) was cleared, hasn't come back. I then put the car back up on stands and checked under my car again for oil leakage. I believe what I was seeing was the residual from the spill and not from the plug. I did however notice another small leak from the front of the block, either the valve covers (which I know are leaking) or possibly from the exhaust header area. And as a side note, I had a brainfart when doing my oil yesterday and put in a whole 5 QT (4.7 liter) jug of Mobil 1. So guess who got to drain about a half a liter from the oil pan. After I drop the sump this weekend I plan on switching over to Rotella T6 which is what I used in the Saabaru.Slowly but surely, making progress. Quick question: How does the plastic trim that contains the seat controls attach to the driver's seat? Mine seems to have detached which results in random seat adjustments when bumped. Also, I know I have a SID2, but apparently some of the earlier SID2's have SID1 ribbons? Is there anyway to tell the difference besides complete disassembly? Edit: Apparently it doesnt matter since I can just self repair myself with heat and double sided tape. JayKay fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Sep 25, 2013 |
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Sep 25, 2013 22:12
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Any tips on removing a non-broken roller from the regulator? I've already pulled the pin off and cannot get the drat thing off if my life depended on it.
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Sep 27, 2013 02:03
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Fixed my broken LF door roller and properly reassembled the door trim this time. Edit: I just went at the stubborn roller with a long flathead and it came off the regulator no problem. Tomorrow's plan: -Drop sump and clean, replace oil pickup and o ring -Replace valve cover gasket and all headbolts -Drain and replace ATF and coolant -Air Filter -Replace FR door lock actuator so I'll have 2 working power locks Near Future: -All 4 shock/strut and spring replacement -Cabin air filter -RF blend door arm replacement with metal arm -ACC recirc fan repair. -SID repair (only missing a couple of lines, not a high priority) Slowly but surely making progress.......
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Sep 27, 2013 22:37
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No luck in dropping the oil pan today. I got hung up on the turbo studs and that pretty much derailed my day. The top 2 came off as one piece with some PB blaster, however the bottom one, the nut came off cleanly without the stud. This is a problem because there is not enough clearance between the downpipe and the stud to drop the exhaust. I tried doing the 2 nut ( ) method in order to try to remove the stud but had no luck. The good news is the stud isn't broken, the bad news is I have no freaking idea how to get it out.Oh well, going to do the valve cover gasket and head bolts tomorrow. Edit: Note to self: When changing out air filter, keep face away from the door when you finally drop it. Not only does the filter drop, but all the crap that's accumulated inside does too.
JayKay fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Sep 28, 2013 |
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Sep 28, 2013 22:52
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West SAAB Story posted:Happy SAAB day, everyone! '00 Aero with 128k in Midnight Blue? I might need to check my garage to ensure you didn't steal my car.
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Oct 26, 2013 00:39
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Is it possible via fuse to get the headlight dial on 9-5's to go from Off > Parking Lights Only > Headlights? Or is this a Tech II issue? (Or is this even possible?) The DRL fuse has already been pulled so right now it's Off > Headlights > Headlights. JayKay fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 00:48
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West SAAB Story posted:That should be Off-DRLs-Headlights if you pulled the fuse. We're (still) talking first gen, right? '00 9-5 Aero. Yup on both counts. I just wish the center switch position would be parking lights only with no headlights. That's how it was on the Saabaru.
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Oct 28, 2013 22:03
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I managed to clip the garage door with my driver's side view mirror while backing up and cracked off a few pieces the very brittle plastic of the mirror frame. The cover and glass are perfectly fine. How hard is it to replace said plastic? Not a huge issue, just a cosmetic one that's going to nag me. Edit: Nevermind, it's apparently really easy to do. Just remove window trim, unhook the mirror harness, find the 3 torx behind foam insulation, find small trim screw, done. JayKay fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 12:23
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Haha thanks. Now the question is do I either: A) Leave it be B) Just buy a new frame ($40ish) C) Buy a whole used assembly ($50-$75) I'm thinking A) until I can find a cheap C) that matches my car.
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Oct 30, 2013 12:55
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