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Tomarse posted:Hi Saab thread! Is there anybody left here with pre-GM Saabs? If there were no limiting factors such as space and reason, I would surely have a couple of old Saabs. Would not mind a 1980's 99 or 900 Turbo. Right now however, I'm fixing a friends 2003 9-5 (wagon, 2.3t automatic). The rear brakes need a complete overhaul, they were seized up and rusted to poo poo after sitting parked all winter. I got all the other bits that need replacing (rotors, pads, shoes, some mounting bits), except the hand brake expanders. A little 2-piece bracket thing that the wire connects to that pushes the brake shoes apart. Looks like this when it is still made of metal and not oxide and dirt:  Given that that thing always seems to become a rusty non-expanding (or in this case non-contracting) mess, it's surprisingly hard to locate. The one I've found is said to be for 1993-2003 Saab 900 and 9-3 (YS3G), not 9-5, and it's the only type they have. Another place has separate items for 9-5 and 9-3, none of them available, but they are exactly the same price and they share the exact same product image. Does anyone know for sure if these are different between the models? If not, I might take a chance on the 9-3 ones, it's only about $30 for the pair after all.
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Apr 24, 2017 16:12
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underlig posted:https://shop.speedparts.se/sv/prod/9-5-98-10/broms/handbroms/18-6947.html Ooh, I forgot that place existed, thanks. They have the same part listed for 900, 9-3 and 9-5, which I think confirms my suspicion that it's exactly the same part. They even seem to have them in stock, so I'm ordering the stuff from there. I would have thought this part would be a lot easier to find in Sweden, I've seen this seize from rust in more than one Saab so it should be a fairly common thing to replace. Still, the common parts people don't have it apparently.
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Apr 24, 2017 23:39
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Tomarse posted:Like this one?: Basically, yes.  Tomarse posted:My brakes were all seized up and rusted to poo poo too Got rear rotors, pads, shoes, mounting kit and those expanders for about €140 total. Calipers seem fine, so not replacing those.
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May 9, 2017 13:24
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. 2 x front calipers, 2 x discs, front pads and a master cylinder has just cost me £330 . How does this compare to 9-5 bits?
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Regarding the 2003 9-5 2.3t mentioned earlier. Having done the completely seized rear brakes (all of which went just fine, handbrake is happy now), it can now be moved again and I could better access the front to give that a look. Needs new pads and rotors, no biggie. However, it also turned out that one of the wheel bolts on the left front is broken off. Then 19 other bolts were torqued like hell (some local tire shop applying way too many brrrapps when putting the winter tires on last year) but nothing seemed deformed or damaged once I got them off. On the broken one however, I can see little metal spirals of chewed up thread, so I'm fully assuming this broke from overtorquing and likely would be a real motherfucker to get out. Also possible the threads in the hub are damaged. I'll give it a try with some heat and a bolt extractor, but I don't have high hopes for that. The broken part is just inside where the thread starts in the hub, so there is no room to weld anything on there either. However, I saw that used bearing/hub things can be found cheaply, due to all the other 9-5's around being junked. From the looks of it, it's just three bolts on the back where it bolts to the steering knuckle, remove the driveshaft and it's out. Can someone confirm that this is the case? If I don't have to go messing around with disassembling balljoints or tie-rod ends or pressing out bearings, this seems to me like a reasonably simple job and decent way to get around the issue. How much of a hassle is it to change this part out?
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May 21, 2017 08:06
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Last weekend I replaced the wheel bearing and front brakes on the aforementioned 9-5 with barely any hassle at all. So mechanically everything seems fine, but two computer/electronics-related LOLSAABLOL things have popped up. Not sure if they were there before or not. First off, the ABS goes off between about 20 and 50km/h. Whenever you touch the brake there's the typical "rumbling" heard and clearly felt through the pedal. I don't think I committed any violence to the ABS sensor when I was moving the steering knuckle about, but it's possible. It doesn't show any warning lights though, so I'm guessing the sensor isn't completely dead. I did clean out some mud and gunk from the teeth in the sensor ring, but if anything that should improve the signal from that side. If I pull the ABS fuse everything is perfectly fine (except the four warning lights and no speedometer). How does one ascertain what is going on here? Just buy ABS sensors and randomly replace until it's good? Clean the teeth on the other side? Second, the engine has gone into some kind of limp home mode. It's as if I only have 1/3rd throttle available. Driving slowly and carefully it is just like normal, but it's just dead if I want to accelerate more. If I floor it the kickdown takes it to about 4000rpm, and it won't get past that. Getting up to highway speed (on a long uphill onramp) was a challenge, but driving along on the highway at 110-120km/h was just fine. The car has been sitting powerless for a few months, can that have caused it to go into the "throttle body limp home mode" I've heard about? Basically it seems like normally there is a cable going to a position sensor by the throttle body, but it's not physically moving the throttle (which is electronic). It can however apparently "snap in" to directly move it mechanically, and it can then be reset by engaging some spring and cocking it back. Is this limp home mode something that can happen from being unpowered (and trying to restart it on a weak battery)? Would that make it behave in this weak way? Seat Safety Switch posted:the original owner sure got boned when she bought this thing. Isn't that the case for just about any new car? Though SAABs might excel at it. Also, I guess we'll see you in a mid-80's 900 Turbo soon enough.
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Jun 22, 2017 14:33
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By the way the dude who owns the 9-5 said he might give it to me, since I spent so much time fixing it for him and more problems just keep showing up. I really don't need more cars, but I somehow like the idea of being subjected to Saab humor once again.
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Jun 22, 2017 15:06
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It's the same fuel, but it doesn't seem at all like what an engine with bad fuel would do. Idles perfectly fine, behaves well at low load, revs happily in neutral. Also never had issues with last year's fuel in cars here.
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Jun 22, 2017 15:59
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spog posted:Doesn't limp mode trigger the Engine Management light? I would expect a "for reals limp-home condition" (such as borked MAF or something) to trigger the warning light, but nothing is lit up. Which is why I was thinking of that throttle body being in the mechanical fallback mode for whatever reason, said reason has disappeared and all is well, but the throttle is in derp mode. But I can certainly test disconnecting the MAF, if that doesn't change anything it is presumably broken. And of course check if the throttle is in that mode or not. SCA Enthusiast posted:Wouldn't surprise me at all if messing with abs would put it in limp mode. It would surprise me if that were the case in a normal car, but here it's just "haha, I get it, it's a Saab". However, I did pull the fuse to the ABS, and the engine still behaved the same.
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Jun 22, 2017 21:21
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some_admin posted:Could oily vapor be leaking out of this? Certainly. The SAAB PCV system knows no boundaries in terms of what can be leaking where, as it is the absolute pride of LOLSAAB engineering. Though if there was stuff coming out there you would see of oily gunk around the fitting. Yours seems to have preferred to spew it out the oil filler cap instead to celebrate its glorious engineering heritage.
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Jan 7, 2018 02:38
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Mephistopheles posted:Cup holders. Oh my god they could not design a cup holder to save their lives. The "diving board" cup holder above the radio in my 1999 9-3 snapped off whole I was on the freeway... Whole holding a cup of hot coffee. That was almost and death sentence in that traffic. Not sure which kind you are referring to, but this is my most favouritest cup holder of any car ever. 
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Apr 2, 2018 21:25
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Old Binsby posted:e. last last question That came with the 900 "NG", so from 1994 on. It was also in the 9-5, but not in the 9000. E: Pham Nuwen posted:"oil is leaking slowly through one of the exhaust manifold bolts" If it only appears to be coming "through a bolt", it has to be oil from somewhere else that just happens to be passing by, and if that's the case it cannot really be that bad. Can't think of anything that could leak above the exhaust manifold except the valve cover gasket, which is cheap and simple to fix. Though on Saabs, especially turbo ones, almost any oil-related problem can be blamed on the PCV, so if the leak annoys you just replace that first. If you want to get rid of the Datsun anyway, and a Saab appeals to you and seems to run, do it. ionn fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 18:36
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It's gotta be a 99 or old-school 900 with the backwards mounted slant-4 and chain drive to maximize the experience of SAAB engineer humor.
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Jun 3, 2023 21:42
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JayKay posted:Back in the day I'd look for either the badge or the boost gauge on the instrument cluster. Our dads 1982 99GL had a "fuel economy gauge" (just measuring intake vacuum) on top of the dash, which I fooled a few people into thinking was a boost gauge.
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Jun 5, 2023 07:20
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His Divine Shadow posted:Turbo-owner accepted my offer of 3800€ will send more photos tomorrow. I'm still unsure though, the other car is just so much nicer looking. 2-door looks better, but turbo and that red interior more than makes up for it.
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Jun 16, 2023 15:43
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Those triangular ones always looked a bit off to me. If you want peak 900 spicy wheels, get the inca ones.
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Jun 19, 2023 10:43
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A Volvo 740 isn't a bad looking car either, especially if you have a particular fondness for right angles.
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Jun 24, 2023 08:51
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His Divine Shadow posted:-Key retention unless reverse no longer works His Divine Shadow posted:-The drivers seat sags at the rear where you sit so you sink down, he passenger seat doesn't do that. I need to fix this because it wasn't good for my back after driving 400km. His Divine Shadow posted:But I prefer the rims on the car now.
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Jun 27, 2023 08:36
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His Divine Shadow posted:(or dump valves or offloading valves as they are also called in swedish) I've only ever heard it called "dumpventil" på svenska, just out of curiosity what was the other one? His Divine Shadow posted:I should keep off the gas pedal in other words until I get my new dump valve (like the sound of that). Unless you're racing it, I don't think it's usually a "make one mistake, explode one turbo" type thing. But it seems to me the thing that would keep the turbo safe would be when if you're at any significant amount of power, to let off the throttle slowly and let the turbo slow down a bit before letting off it completely to shift. Also a sufficiently old plastic tube between turbo and engine can sometimes make a functioning single-use blowoff valve.
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Jul 31, 2023 08:05
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