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I love that 9000. My friends 9000 is what originally got me thinking of a Saab. 4 door + turbo + low insurance costs? Sign me up! I'm currently working to get my car to 300HP. (99 9-3, looking for a TD04 if anyone has a lead...) let it be known, I loving LOVE 3-spoke wheels. They kind of remind me of viking axes being spun around and around as you go down the road. Very 
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Nov 24, 2009 04:46
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 22:49 |
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The boost gauge isn't all that inaccurate - it's just not labeled with anything. Though on every stock Saab I've driven the gauge should go up to the top of the yellow and stop. Middle of yellow sounds like you're stuck at 'base boost' which is where the wastegate on the turbo will open if your BPC (boost pressure control) valve fails, which they often do. On my car with the tune the boost gauge shoots up to 3/4 or 4/5'ths into the red and settles back down above 4500RPM  I also just bought something that should arrive in the mail next week. I'm quite excited and will post pics when it shows up.
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Dec 19, 2009 20:14
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Well, the T5 does use a MAP sensor to inject the correct amount of fuel - so it better know how much boost the engine is on! I've heard that theory over on saabcentral as well, and I think it holds more true for the T7 cars that use a MAF sensor instead - which doesn't go off of engine pressure but does go off how much air flows into the engine (thus mass air flow...) You could just get a boost gauge from craigslist and ghetto rig it for testing to see what's going on.
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Dec 20, 2009 02:55
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Oh, what did we get in the big box this time? Hmmm....  Oh, look at that logo:  Yup, that says TD04HL-15T:  But it came with this hose all busted up and bent... think it will still work like this? It's just the oil return hose. I could bend it to normal, but I don't think it'd be easy to source the part.  Looks like I may need to find a new one/cut and weld? Solder? a new pipe on. I could easily enough solder a new pipe to the broken one, but would solder hold up to the high heat from the turbo? With this turbo, correct tuning, and an upgraded intercooler I think 270HP is possible. I want 300, and may be able to eek it out of this turbo. This is going to be fun. EDIT TO SAY: $200 - ebay from LKQ and from a car with 72K miles on it. Not bad. Captain Crunk fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Dec 26, 2009 |
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Dec 26, 2009 23:11
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For the 2004 Aero I am 90% sure it's the DIC, try and find another one to swap/test with if you can. Could also be the CPS, but usually the car will run rough hot and not start until it cools down in that case. The Saab guys say the TD04 can be swapped on and will be close enough to the T25 that it won't cause an issue. I can't attest, but for maximum power and safety you will need to tune the ECU if you change the turbo. Yes, I'm familiar with tuning the ECU and will be downloading/flashing a pre-made tune for a TD04 on this engine. From there I will tweak it for maximum performance on a dyno. I'm using T5 suite with a BDM adapter and it works quite well! I want to get the CAN-USB and do real time in-car tuning. I will end up grabbing a return from a WRX or other TD04 - I don't want to mess this up and poo oil all over the road and burn up my engine. I'm in no big hurry, so I'm getting this right. My T25 burns oil right now, but it's not all that bad and makes James Bond-esque smoke screens on right turns.
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Dec 28, 2009 02:57
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I think if you were so inclined to you could take two half-working DICs and make one working one. It'd be messy though, as they're filled with oil; and I think they may have some capacitors in them so shocking yourself could be an issue. I'd try, but I don't have the time. For all those considering a Saab now, I'll say I love my 9-3 and the reality is the NG900 is a rebadged Opel, yes. But we didn't get that Opel stateside so it's still unique, and very Saab. I posted this in the other thread about common issues with these cars: As far as reliability goes for the guys who asked they're pretty good except within 5K miles at 120K the following fails (always): -Fuel Pump (replace it yourself, cut a hole in the floor. Not kidding, cost me 20bux for a junkyard pump and took 2 hours) -DIC - You're screwed, they're $200 used. Try and find a nice one with recent date code. -CPS - hard to replace because of the exhaust, but doable -Check for engine sludge - drop the oil pan, and exhaust (do the CPS now) and clean out the pickup screen -Serp belt and pulleys -SID pixels die, a repair costs $50 so isn't terrible. Cars with T5 engine management ('96-'99) don't have as many sludge issues as those from '00 on up.
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Jan 22, 2010 02:38
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Here is a howto for the fuel pump replacement: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119759&highlight=fuel+pump+hole and another example: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61165&highlight=fuel+pump+hole It's pretty strait forward and I know it saved me a lot of time on the replacement. If you do break the yellow tabs get a new assembly as the hoses won't hold themselves and WILL splash fuel all over the underside of your seat.
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Jan 25, 2010 23:04
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Figured out why the Saab was smoking today: Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. oh... looks like broken teeth  It's also got about 1/2" play back and forth so it's definitely long gone. I don't even know if it could be rebuilt. I don't know what happened to the chunks - I blew out the intercooler in case, but don't think I got anything. Fortunately, I have a new TD04! YES! so I plug it up, and used some Earl's hardware banjo bolts because I needed smaller banjos for the coolant connections to the TD04. This swap isn't easy, the lines don't QUITE line up. Just enough to piss you off but some bending is necessary for the coolant and oil lines. I spent from 8AM to 5PM getting it all together and as soon as I poured water in it started to leak from the new banjo bolts. No problem, I left them kind of loose might as well tighten them up a little bit right?  Click here for the full 1500x1100 image. gently caress I just pulled it off the ramps and left it parked. You can see what happened - the crush washer wasn't PERFECTLY in the center so there was a leak, I honestly didn't put that much force on it and snap! Now I want to buy the right parts, found them at e-europarts but they cost $21! each. This is the link:http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=90490325 Any place I can get them for cheaper? I honestly don't want to bother with other banjos that may or may not work. Now I have to wait until next weekend and all I got for a long day of work was sunburn.
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Jun 13, 2010 03:06
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I managed to finally stuff the TD04 in my car! The secret is ordering the banjo bolts online and looking REALLY HARD for them because drat are they hard to find. I drove it into work today, spools up nice but I don't get the boost I used to get from the T25. I'm thinking it's either a boost leak or software/other install issue. It also spools really loud - sounds like the car may actually have been "born from jets". Probably because I still need to hook my new intake up to the stock airbox. I need to hook up the PCV and verify the BPC valve is hooked up correctly - check for boost leaks and I'll be done. The thing just HAULS compared to when it had the old turbo I posted earlier. 40 to 75 or 80 happens way too fast- but passing on the drat two lane country highways is way better. I guess I'll post some pics later when I've got it more hooked up.
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Jul 2, 2010 23:26
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kimbo305 posted:Anyone worked on the antenna in a 98-03 9-3? I've done this on my '99 - I replaced my broken (not going down) mast with a "good" one from a junkyard that just didn't go up at all. I think you have to take off the speaker cover and peel the carpet back but I'll double check when I get home. I was running custom software before the swap and I've left it for now. I'm going to buy one of these babies: http://www.canusb.com/ Custom tuning of my ECU from my laptop as well as a strait line to all sensors, knock, and misses etc? SIGN ME THE HELL UP! Also, I had my friend (who wasn't too familiar with turbos) tighten my intercooler hoses and every hose joint has blown in a hilarious under high boost situation. Mostly a "BOOM" followed by the turbo freewheeling to 1-billion RPM. Sounds like a jumbo jet getting shot out of a cannon. Fixed now, but it was pretty funny to me for some reason. <3 my car again now.
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Jul 7, 2010 21:17
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Well after getting my car together I seem to have developed another problem. 135K miles, 99 9-3 SYMPTOM OF PATIENT: When driving at 45+MPH if I hit a bump I feel the initial 'thump' and then there is an odd oscillation in the steering immediately afterword. As speed increases it gets worse with every bump, and multiple bumps make it feel like the 'death wobble' on a worn out lifted jeep. Acceleration makes it worse, and if I'm already accelerating and hit a bump sometimes I get wheel hop. Vibration is very light at 50-55MPH (without hitting a bump), goes away and is from then on only induced by hitting a bump in the road. POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS: *Bad motor mounts could be causing the transmission to flop around in weird ways *Subframe loose - car was in an accident a long time ago and has a lame 'fix' for one of the front mounting bolts for the subframe *Bad tie rods/ball joints - these wear out and I'm sure they're stock. I know I can check them by jacking the car up and jerking around the wheel. top/bottom is ball joint and left/right is tie rod right? *Suspension bushings shot or other broken suspension bits *Broken or FUBAR steering rack *Possible worn bushings in transmission; I've heard that where the axle plugs into the transmission can wear and cause a vibration that is an absolute bastard to fix. Oh god I am so far $-wise into this car and I have no idea which of these items it may be and how much time/$ it will cost me to fix it. Any ideas on which is more likely? and for a little more bitching my car needs (you don't have to read this if you don't want): *New brakes all around (pads/rotors) *New motor mounts - it's hard to shift after acceleration and my shifter moves like 5+" on a good rip through 2nt *Me to install the new shifter bushings (take apart console yay) *Transmission rebuilt - it leaks expensive fluid like a drat sieve and is always dry, this has hosed up the syncro for 3'rd and it's rough to shift into second *New CV axles as the boots have been ripped for some time. No clicking yet, but I know it will happen one day. *New tires all around *SID and ACC fix *Me to finally order the drat heater core hoses and replace them (such a bitch due to space, and I can only find the hose online because of different size input/outputs) *New suspension bushings anyways as it creaks and groans like the Titanic *Me to finally swap over the rear pass window motor mechanism from the junkyard door - drill out the drat rivets (WHY USE RIVETS?) for both doors and swap *Exhaust has rusted through right under the shifter and it's quite loud - also backfires on occasion. *Also the plastic shields under the front of the car are either gone or destroyed, including the drivers side wheel well cover. at least the new turbo makes it haul rear end... 
Captain Crunk fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 17:44
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Nuclear Tourist posted:So joy of joys, today when I was out driving the airbag warning light randomly came on. This better not be expensive. I bet you good money it's the driver side airbag, and it's just the stupid 'ring' coupling that the buttons for the radio, horn, and the airbag uses to get power from the column to the steering wheel. I just ignore it... The message will go away with time if the ring "fixes" itself (something like 5 or 10 start/stops without the error again). If you really want to clear it you have to find someone with a TECH-2, I'm going to take the wheel off and explore fixing it someday.
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Sep 16, 2010 20:38
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Gotta say if I had the 5K I would buy that Saabaru in a new york minute! Who cares about the hail damage! I bet it's comfy, nothing technically wrong, and it would be the best rallyX/autoX car ever... My Saab is killing me again though. My saga starts with a heater hose blowing, I bypassed it for the summer and got it replaced just last month. During the summer I also noticed the car running cool and replaced the thermostat. I also noticed the temp gauge reading weird, and when looking for a short I pulled the wires clean out of the temp sensor (not pulling hard, just old part). So I have a new thermostat, temp sensor, and heater hoses. The car worked PERFECT - got up to temp quick, stayed there, good heat. I was happy! Then the coolant expansion tank blew and sprayed coolant all over the engine.  Not to be beaten by the Sweedes, I went to the junkyard and grabbed the tank for 25bux - just installed it today. Now, the car temp was reading really low. I got the idea to let it sit around and idle, and the temp climbed to normal. When I drive, it went back down to Cold. So, it acts like a busted thermostat. BUT IT'S BRAND NEW!  I guess I'm going to take it all apart and check if something got jammed in the thermostat or whatever. Also the forecast for the next ever calls for rain in the PNW, and I've got no garage.  SAAB!
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Dec 13, 2010 01:42
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Well, I just got the thermostat out of the car and tested it by boiling. My thermometer read 92 Celsius before it opened, so I'm pretty sure it's opening at the right time and not before (89 degree thermostat). I'm kind of stumped now. I'm going to put it back in the car and ponder what could be happening a little more. UPDATE: I put the thermostat back into the car, and it still doesn't get up to warm according to the gauge. The heat however is pretty darn hot, so one would think the car is warming up and it's a temp gauge problem... but then when I let it sit why does the temp gauge go to normal then back to cold when I drive again? I'm going to test the temp gauge and sensor by checking it with an ohmmeter and if I need to using a potentiometer to test the gauge itself. Captain Crunk fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Dec 18, 2010 |
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Dec 17, 2010 21:40
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Fixed my car! It was the temp sensor, I took it out and as soon as I did I could see the wires going into the sensor looked odd and the ceramic back of the sensor was cracked and broken. Finding a new one was hard, had to drive a good 20 miles to an O'Reily that had one. Got it home and hooked up and everything is good again! I really forgot how quick this car is, but only if it can find traction (that's a big if). So happy it's fixed again...for now. 
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Dec 19, 2010 02:57
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 22:49 |
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If you're accelerating and it feels like for just a second (well, really less than a second, more like .25 seconds) it 'stumbles' or stops accelerating then there is a chance the engine is missing. It's possible for the engine to miss without throwing a code (mine does it every day, many times a day)-it's possibly a bad DIC or could be something as simple as old spark plugs. If you want you can check the date code on the DIC (you have to take it out, there should be a screwdriver for the torx screws in the trunk), if it's from 1999 it's almost certainly the problem. Also, check the plugs and replace them; they're cheap.
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Feb 17, 2011 00:48
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