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Sounds interesting. DBA always seemed a little too rocks papers scissors for my liking, and very biased towards tournament play. Mind you its quick to paint an army up for it, you dont need too many figures so thats a bonus.
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Jan 3, 2010 13:16
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Serotonin posted:Sounds interesting. DBA always seemed a little too rocks papers scissors for my liking, and very biased towards tournament play. Mind you its quick to paint an army up for it, you dont need too many figures so thats a bonus. Indeed, and I think you should look at it more as a quickly played boardgame actually. Not that it doesn't convey the tabletop wargame feel of armies meeting or that real life strategy doesn't work. But the small board, the fact that both players have the same number of units and the set rules for each unit kind of makes it feel like playing chess. It's just that the other player have four bishops and 5 rooks, you have no queen and far too many pawns and there's woods and hills in the middle of the board. Oh, and you roll a die every turn to see how many pieces you get to move, which can completely screw you over. It's not a game for you if you can't laugh off losing because of bad luck with the dice.
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Jan 3, 2010 13:34
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OK heres something we havent covered yet- moderns. Ambush Alley http://www.ambushalleygames.com/    Ambush Alley is a wargame 'simulating' asymetrical warfare ina modern setting. Ive played it mainly for Iraq and Afghanistan. I know a few wargamers find ultra moderns a little distasteful and thats fair enough. Ambush Alley has a fantasticly clever system all based on reactions, which means its a perfect game for solo play. Again like some other systems it eschews loads of gun stats etc in favour of keeping it simple. The designers premise is that most modern assault rifles are fairly similar in effect and the most important factor is the ability of the troops using them. In ambush alley the 'to hit roll or morale check is always a 4+, but what idfferentiaites forces ability is the dice used to roll for it. So a untrained militia/jihadist type in somalia firing from the hip (weve all seen the photos!) may well roll a d6 for his shooting, but the Delta Force operative holed up in his downed black hawk (yes they have a whole campaign book for playing Black Hawk Down) may well roll a d12. The other clever mechanic is the Trained player (thats the player in charge of what is called Trained forces- ie regular soldiers) never know exactly what he is facing. The board is set up with 6 hot spots on, which the insurgent player places where he likes or as dictated by the scenario. He is then given a pool of maybe a dozen insurgents to set up as he sees fit around these hot spots. Now every end of turn he dices randomly to see what reinforcements he gets and where they appear from- weve had games where the poor insurgents going against a squad or 2 of USMC (which is the usual amount of troops for the trained player) have ended up with no more than a handful of reifnrocements the entire game and have quickly been neutralised (a trained player only has to move into contact with a hotspot to remove it from the board- if the enemy dices their reinforcements appear at a neutralised hotspot- tough you lose them) but on the other hand we have had them recieving dozens and dozens of troops a turn. The rules are fairly simple, but give a real feel for modern combat. The regular troops are hard(ish) to kill but generally have to check causalites and try and evac when a man goes down (they can leave them but they then lose morale dice- ie they might start on d10 morale biut for every casualty they leave they lose a quality of dice - ie go down to a d8) whereas the insurgents die in droves to the superior fire power of the soldiers. Things also get tasty when random events happen, and you get to turn a card. This can be anything from improved morale or firepower of the inrugents through to a M1 Abrams turning up to support the beleagured soldiers. More than likely in my experience you find yourself on the end of a Technical or the car you were all hiding behind turns out to be a IED. Its a fantastic system and no 2 games are ever the same. We have played one of the starter scenarios in the book a good 5 times now and its never been close to the same game twice. Weve gone from USMC wiping out inurgents like something from a Michael Bay film through to 3 USMC holed up in abuilding with loads of their colleagues dying on the floor round them surrounded by 40 angry insurgents). The game is written for 15mm, but will work with any scale. For 15mm you only need a 2ftx2ft table which means its a nice easy set up for most dining room tables.
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Jan 3, 2010 14:01
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I can understand how people would find that distasteful but I'm really interested. Asymetrical games & the system you described sounds fast & exciting, as far as moving bits of tin around the dining room table goes.
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Jan 3, 2010 14:09
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Cakefool posted:I can understand how people would find that distasteful but I'm really interested. Asymetrical games & the system you described sounds fast & exciting, as far as moving bits of tin around the dining room table goes. It is. I didnt reall go into the reaction system in my big old post. Basically the insurgent player doesnt have a turn as such, not like in a traditional IGOUGO system. Their 'turn' is basically all about reacting to the actions of each trained players squad. For example the regular players 1st suqad activates, meaning he can chose to move and fire or fire and then move. At any point a insurgent unit that can see or comes into line of sight, can attempt to interrupt the trained players action. In turn the trained player can attempt to react to this interruption. So the USMC leaves cover and comes in to line of sight of 2 jihadist groups. The 2 groups attempt to interrupt the USMC. One group passes its check to interrupt and the other fails (like a intiative test). Now the USMC can dice to react to the succesful interruption. This could mean that as they leave cover they spot the jihadists group attempting to get a bead on them and they are able to open fire first (if they passed their reaction test), or if they failed the reaction test, will start to take incoming fire from the jihadists. Im not sure if thats clear, it sounded simple in my head, and it plays simple,. just hard to describe. They suit solo play too very well. The rules are avialable in pdf and arent too pricey- give them a go!
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Jan 3, 2010 14:19
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Should have just copy pasted this example fromt he rule book! Example: The Regular player activates one of his units and the Insurgent player announces that three of his units within LOS are going to interrupt. We’ll call the Insurgent units Alpha, Bravo, and Charlie. The players make a Reaction Test for each interrupting unit, starting with the one nearest to the Regulars and moving out. For simplicity’s sake, we’ll say that Alpha was closest, Bravo next closest, and Charlie was furthest away. The Regular player has some bad luck with the dice and loses the check against Alpha, wins the check against Bravo, and loses the check against Charlie. Now that the players know the results of all three Reaction Tests, they resolve the actual interruption and reaction fire. The Insurgents against whom the Regular player lost Reaction Tests are resolved first: Alpha and Charlie. The interruption fire of the unit nearest the Regular unit is resolved first, then the next nearest, etc. In this case, that means that fire is resolved between the Regular and Alpha, and then Charlie. The Insurgent player throws the Firepower dice for Alpha, and the Regular player throws his unit’s Defense dice. Alpha is having a bad day and causes no casualties to the Regulars. The Regulars now get to return the favor with their reaction fire. They cause one casualty among the Insurgents, who pass their Morale test and Stand. Next the exchange of fire with Charlie is resolved. Like Alpha, Charlie fails to cause any casualties among the Regulars. Despite losing a die of Firepower for reacting to a second interruption in the same Activation, the Regular’s reaction fire is lethal. Charlie loses three insurgents. Charlie’s luck goes from bad to worse when their Morale Check leaves them Shaken AND the unit Shrinks by one less-than-enthused rebel. Now all successful interrupts have been resolved, it is time to resolve the exchanges in which the Regular passed its Reaction Test. In this case, there is only one, with Bravo. The Regular rolls his Firepower dice, now reduced by two dice, as he is reacting to the third interruption in the same Activation. He still manages to cause one casualty to Bravo, though. Bravo passes its Morale test rains fire down on the Regulars, causing one casualty. The Regulars pass their Morale check and can finally move – albeit with a Movement reduced by 2” for reacting to three interruptions in the same Activation! The Regulars move 4” into a courtyard and are now within LOS of Insurgent unit Delta! Delta declares an interruption, which is legal as the Regulars weren’t within Delta’s LOS at the time of their activation. This interruption is resolved normally, although the Regular’s Firepower is no reduced by THREE dice for being interrupted four times within the same activation!
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Jan 3, 2010 14:27
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Flames of War help please. So I'll be getting a ton of German infantry that I'll try to shape into something fieldable. I'm about to order some bases from Litko Systems anyway, so I thought I would pick up some FoW bases in advance. Now, I don't know much about the basing system. Litko have Small, Medium and Large bases available. Am I right that the medium base is the usual one for infantry? I've seen snipers on very small bases, but I have no idea of what the large bases are for. Will I have any use of these, or should I just pick up a huge bunch of medium bases?
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Jan 3, 2010 19:09
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Serotonin posted:Ambush Alley I really like the sound of this. I've got some 28mm 80s soviets and afghan freedom fighters that would work well... Hm, there's some kind of jet dogfighting tabletop game that a friend has. With that, Ambush Alley (or their Force on Force rules for rather more symmetric warfare), and Cold War Commander... we could play a Red Dawn campaign in three different scales! Now to get some miniatures painted! Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jan 3, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 20:25
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Danger - Octopus! posted:I really like the sound of this. I've got some 28mm 80s soviets and afghan freedom fighters that would work well... Now the hard work to persuade a friend that they want to play as well They would work excellently. Also it plays well solo, Ive played with myself (ooher) a few times and had good games. Also Ive heard this said a number of times before on SA - why is it hard to convince your friends (who I assume are wargamers) to play with you. Just do a decent demo game and fish them in. Our gaming group started with WFB and 40k exclusively (back in the midsts of time, about 15 years ago) and we now play pretty much 995 historicals.
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Jan 3, 2010 20:28
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Serotonin posted:Also Ive heard this said a number of times before on SA - why is it hard to convince your friends (who I assume are wargamers) to play with you. . Because most of the guys I game with have wives and all of us have jobs and other hobbies, so we don't play that often... and WFB or 40k is the kinda lowest common denominator. As has been said elsewhere on SA, there's a difference between being a wargamer and playing GW games. Not all GW players will want to play other games, sad though it is. And settings with a background to get into seem to appeal to some more than the real world (while of course if you go browse historics forums, you'll see people who sometimes can't get their head round settings that aren't real world based) All of my mates have 40k armies, but two people don't want to play anything that isn't GW because they don't really enjoy the game per se but likes the fantasy and 40k fluff, another only really wants to play Battletech (which I strongly dislike) but will play GW games because he used to like them back in the day, two only really want to play WFB (one because he likes the rules, one because he likes the fluff) and they get visibly bored during 40k, and I don't have a WFB army and don't really want one. If we're gaming once every couple of months, then playing a game that one person isn't going to turn up to means no gaming for them for two or three months so we try to avoid that mostly and just have a game that everyone who can make a date wants to play. We play boardgames more often, since they have a more general appeal amongst us to be honest and have quick pick-up-and-play rules for the most part. Sometimes wargames-light ones like the old Axis & Allies and stuff like that. I'd love to play more regularly, but since several of us work pretty long hours and commute, weekdays are never an option and scheduling gaming at weekends involves scheduling around wives/girlfriends/actually leaving the house and being sociable with non-nerds. Edit: Solo play wargaming sounds intriguing, if even more nerdy somehow. Might get Ambush Alley in a couple of months when some horrifying expenses have passed. Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jan 3, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 20:41
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Well my gaming group all have wives and kids, we get to play every fortnight. I think its preferable to us all going out getting pissed in some pub. I get what you are saying but in my experience it seems that lots of people who play GW games exclusively just dont knwo there is something else out there. Trick em into playing. Invite them along and then tell them what they are playing. If that fails beat them to death with a copy of Black Powder.
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Jan 3, 2010 20:45
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Serotonin posted:Well my gaming group all have wives and kids, we get to play every fortnight. I think its preferable to us all going out getting pissed in some pub. We don't all hang out together the rest of the time though, so we mostly have kinda separate groups of friends in different places which is what gets in the way. So if I'm out to the pub, friend A might be going to an archery lesson while friend B is taking his wife out somewhere whilst C and D want to game but neither of them has space at their place so relies on someone who has a gaming table being free. Such are the perils of our hectic lives! So that this isn't all E/N whining from me, does anyone have any links to good guides to making 6mm scenery?
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Jan 3, 2010 20:53
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Serotonin posted:25mm or 1 inch square would be perfect. Well, they recommend 20mm for 28mm figures, don't they?
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Jan 3, 2010 21:15
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Lord Commissar posted:Well, they recommend 20mm for 28mm figures, don't they? Yes, but thats per figure. At 10mm you will want to stick 4 or so figures on 1 base.
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Jan 3, 2010 22:11
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Serotonin posted:Yes, but thats per figure. At 10mm you will want to stick 4 or so figures on 1 base. Which they mention as being 40mm x 40mm (with 2 wide and 2 deep). So I'm just trying to figure out the best size for four that fits with their scheme. Mathematically, it's be about 8mm per, or 16mm x 16mm. I'm not sure I could find bases that size, though. EDIT: GF9 makes any size I want between 15mm and 99mm! 3 Action Economist fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jan 4, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 23:45
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lilljonas posted:Flames of War help please. Yes the medium base is the standard for infantry (4 per base), small bases hold snipers, command teams, Bazookas/Panzerfausts. I haven't come across large bases but I guess they are for the really big artillery pieces.
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Jan 4, 2010 00:13
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Trouble Man posted:Did anybody ever actually play Flames of War Vietnam, or did everyone do what I did and sperg about how cool the models were? I don't think they're out yet. Totally cool models though. I don't see many people wanting to play the Viets; there is literally no draw when you look at the awesome choppers the Americans get. I understand it is historical etc. and I'm up for playing any side but most people (including me) will buy a few choppers
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Jan 4, 2010 03:07
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muggins posted:I don't think they're out yet. Totally cool models though. I don't see many people wanting to play the Viets; there is literally no draw when you look at the awesome choppers the Americans get. I understand it is historical etc. and I'm up for playing any side but most people (including me) will buy a few choppers The rules were in Wargames Illustrated 266 (Dec '09)
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Jan 4, 2010 03:54
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I saw the post above about Ambush Alley. I'm wondering if there is any other modern wargaming rules out there? I would love to be able to fight a Soviet/US circa 1985 game. Also, does any place sell modern miniatures?
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Jan 4, 2010 05:06
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Iron Squid posted:I saw the post above about Ambush Alley. For 1980's Afghans and Soviets in 28mm check out Eureka Miniatures: http://eurekamin.com.au/index.php?cPath=87_150 If you want 28mm Second Gulf War stuff then you can get lots of modern miniatures from The Assault Group, they are sort of GW-ish in proportions: http://www.theassaultgroup.co.uk/store/home.php?cat=40 If you decide to go with plastics there are tons of plastic model kit makers who do moderns in 1/72 or 1/35, both tanks and infantry. Think Airfix, Italieri, Tamiya, Dragon, Miniart, those kinds of companies. If you want smaller scale and field lots of tanks attacking each other, then you might want to check out Cold War Commander. GHQ has itty bitty tanks in 1/285 http://www.ghqmodels.com/store/military-models-modern-micro-armour.html Battlefield Evolution used to have rules and pre-painted miniatures if I'm not remembering wrong. They sort of flopped on the miniature side but have been revived on the rules side, including a modern zombie apocalypse ruleset. Rules are similar to Starship Troopers, which I haven't tried but heard good things about. Miniatures can still be found on e-bay etc. http://www.mongoosepublishing.com/home/series.php?qsSeries=47 lilljonas fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jan 4, 2010 |
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Jan 4, 2010 06:05
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Iron Squid posted:I saw the post above about Ambush Alley. Skirmish? Try Force on Force from Ambush Alley Games Grander scale- Cold War Commander of course!
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Jan 4, 2010 08:17
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Alright now that I think I've got basing sorted, I'm curious if anyone uses movement trays for historicals, and if so, what to use. I like GF9's magnetic bases, but the bases themselves are like GW's and beveled. They're also expensive, compared to their non-magnetic ones, and I think I could probably just add my own magnets (I've done that before). My concern is that there's a lot more fomration changing in historicals, and even 2x2, there can be far more models in a formation than WHFB.
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Jan 4, 2010 15:31
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Lord Commissar posted:Alright now that I think I've got basing sorted, I'm curious if anyone uses movement trays for historicals, and if so, what to use. I just use very heavy cardstock. A thin ridge of balsa wood on top and the models keep in place. The bad thing is that even thick cardstock will bend a bit when painted. Very thick plasticard would be better, but there is nowhere to buy it around here. That is for WHFB/WAB style gaming with 20mm bases in big units. In FoG I rarely have more than 6 elements in a battlegroup, so not much use for a movement tray.
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Jan 4, 2010 16:24
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No Pun Intended posted:The rules were in Wargames Illustrated 266 (Dec '09) Yup, I knew that already. The models aren't out afaik.
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Jan 4, 2010 17:45
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Flames of War question: FoW offers a battalion box of Udarny Strelkovy. I know those are basically a more elite infantry, but is there anything on them that would make them stand out? What I mean is, can I use them as regular ol' infantry? Following that up, who else makes decent 15mm WWII models (specifically infantry) that I can get for less than FoW figs?
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Jan 4, 2010 18:19
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Gah, just spent a hundred bucks on bases and magnets. Granted one third of them are not for me, and they will be enough for several projects, but still. But all in all that is nothing compared to the cost of a 28mm samurai army:  I need to take some good pics of them one day. Lord Commissar: a friend of mine picked up Old Glory 15mm Germans, and they are super cheap. However, they come in packages of 50(!) each, so even after making an infantry company he will have enough troops left to dump the rest on me for another company. I'll post them as soon as I have painted them so you can compare them, I guess they are crappier quality due to the price but I'm not sure. At least it makes for cheap cannon fodder. http://www.oldgloryminiatures.com/categories.asp?cat=485 They have tanks also, but I haven't made a price comparison. For tanks you might check out Skytrex too: http://www.skytrex.com/ They have a 10% sale ending today.' EDIT: quick price comparison, 3 tigers: Battlefront, through The War Store, 30 bucks OG 26 bucks Skytrex 23 pound So OG is a bit cheaper but not that much, might depend on what vehicle it is too. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jan 4, 2010 |
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Jan 4, 2010 18:34
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lilljonas posted:Lord Commissar: a friend of mine picked up Old Glory 15mm Germans, and they are super cheap. However, they come in packages of 50(!) each, so even after making an infantry company he will have enough troops left to dump the rest on me for another company. I'll post them as soon as I have painted them so you can compare them, I guess they are crappier quality due to the price but I'm not sure. At least it makes for cheap cannon fodder. Excellent! I kind of wish they had pictures though. Why don't these companies ever provide pictures!?
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Jan 4, 2010 18:42
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Lord Commissar posted:Excellent! Because they live in the past when people just had paper catalogues with names and product numbers and people didn't give that much poo poo about how things looked. Historical gamers give all kinds of poo poo to GW, but the truth is that the leaps and bounds in how good miniatures look would be impossible without GW. So you are stuck with GIS and trying to figure out if the bad miniatures you are bound to see are a result of a crappy paint job or crappy sculpts. Here's a pretty cool blog with mixed Battlefront, Old Glory and Battle Honours, they seem to mix well enough for me. http://saskminigamer.blogspot.com/2008/04/15mm-ww2-deutches-afrika-korps.html
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Jan 4, 2010 18:53
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It annoys me when firms dont put pics up. I guess though for most companies they are pretty much 1 man shows, and photographing a huge catalogue of products is a time consuming job they feel is better spent on product development. Plus here in the Uk we are lucky enough to have a massive round of wargame shows (theres at least one a month somewhere with a couple of hours drive) where traditionally most people have done all their buying in the flesh and can see the products first hand. If its any help I own a load of Old Glory Romans and Mujahadeen. They arent the best quality castings, but I think they are perfectly usable and paint up OK. They are pretty cheap so thats an obvious plus!
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Jan 4, 2010 19:32
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Thanks to the guy who posted that little review of Ambush Alley, I will definately be picking up the PDF of the rules soon. I wonder if I could somehow combine two hobbies into one, and run PBP Ambush Alley? I guess I'd have to read the rules first...I love the idea of only have a 2ftx2ft playing field, thats almost a travel game! 
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Jan 4, 2010 20:45
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In case you are like me and want to play some pike and shot style games without, you know, buying anything, I found a pretty decent DBA variant that covers the Renaissance era. http://www.scribd.com/group/82216-dba-rrr-renaissance-reformation-and-restoration
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Jan 4, 2010 20:54
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Lord Commissar posted:Flames of War question: I'm pretty sure it says somewhere on the FoW website that the Udarny Strelkovy can be used to make a regular Strelkovy battalion as well.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:19
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I've been stuck in a painting rut for a while, not being able to get myself to paint any of my 28mm stuff. So I took out some really old 15mm north african spearmen. While they really show their age with the single poses and all, the lack of detail meant that they painted up real fast and they make up a whole battlegroup for my FoG Carthaginians. 15mm can be very forgiving at an arm's length. I haven't finished the basing of them yet, neither for these Corvus Belli Gallic cavalry.  Towering over them is my second attempt at painting a 54mm miniature, this one is from Pegaso who do just insanely detailed miniatures. For the first time I tried shading skin with purple, and I'd be damned if it doesn't work absolutely great. 
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Jan 4, 2010 23:41
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lilljonas posted:Towering over them is my second attempt at painting a 54mm miniature, this one is from Pegaso who do just insanely detailed miniatures. For the first time I tried shading skin with purple, and I'd be damned if it doesn't work absolutely great. That looks awesome! I'm excited about some of the Victrix 54mm plastics. I'd never play a 54mm wargame (Jesus Christ, how big would THAT table have to be!?), but it could be interesting to paint up.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:43
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Lord Commissar posted:I'm excited about some of the Victrix 54mm plastics. I'd never play a 54mm wargame (Jesus Christ, how big would THAT table have to be!?), but it could be interesting to paint up. So am I, I was going to split the box with a friend as I don't really need 16 just for painting.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:51
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Haha I just looked at Pegaso's website, and they list the American Revolution figures under Old West. Crazy Italians.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:55
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Warhammer Historicals: Trafalgar Trafalgar is a naval ruleset in the Napoleonic era, 1775-1815. The rules cover naval conflicts in the Great Lakes between Britain and the USA, between the Barbary pirates and the USA, Baltic warfare between Russia and Sweden and finally the main theater: the Napoleonic War, culminating at the Battle of Trafalgar where British naval superiority was secured for a century. The system is very much a Warhammer system so if you have played 40K or Fantasy you will quickly figure things out. The main difference from the mainstream warhammer rules, what gives it that naval feel, are the restricted movements and the fact that you attack with broadsides. This truly makes it a game about manouvering and planning ahead. Battlefleet Gothic veterans will immediately know what I am talking about, even thought I would say that it is even more important in Trafalgar due to your armament being limited to broadsides. When you can't shoot forwards you better get good at turning around at the right time.  Trafalgar in 1/2400 scale The rules are, IMHO, best suited for skirmishes with 2-6 ships per side, especially when fielding the hardier ships of the line. The order in which you move and shoot is depending on your position in relation to the wind. By manouvering into a favourable wind you gain the initiative. However, this is made difficult by many factors: first of all you have to move your full movement rate every turn, even if you can try to break or speed up by changing sails. You have a very limited ability to turn, and even before attempting a turn you will move straight forward due to inertia. And you better bring your lucky dice if you ever end up sailing straight into the wind, because that can tear your masts off... The second big difference from a IGOYOUGO system is that you can always pause either your own move or the enemy's move to fire reaction fire. The penalty for not waiting to the shooting phase is a -1 to hit on a D6, where you are usually at 4+ or 5+ to hit. This makes all kinds of nasty things like a driveby by angry French sailors possible.  Crossing the T with cutout ships If there is anything to complain about, it is that criticals (sixes on to hit roll) really are the way that you win games. A big ship might be able to take 20 ordinary hits before being disabled, while a lucky critical can take it out. It is also extremly easy to make the other ship start burning, which unable them from shooting next turn. So sometimes you get an annoying battle of attrition where the burning ship keep on putting out the fire just to be turned on fire again. There are also some minor rules that you are better off adjusting such as making the degrees of raking shots (shots coming in from the front or back, which do extra critical damage) less generous. The British are also REALLY overpowered. But aside from that, I think it is a very good start for someone who is new to naval wargaming. I say that as a person who never played naval wargames before, and who always considered Napoleonics to be one of the less interesting periods. The book is very well laid out lots of historical notes, including a long bit on the naval part of the Napoleonic War, and of course a campaign on Trafalgar itself. There are full army lists for Netherlands, Portugal, Spanish, British, French, USA, Privateers, Russians and Swedes. The book is full colour with lots of pictures with guides for how to paint the ships, how to do rigging and how ships worked during this era. The book pretty much assumes you know nothing about the topic, but not in a condescending way, which makes me think that it is a perfect starting point for a sweetwater landcrab Admiral like me.  The rules are made with 1/1200 scale in mind, but there is nothing stopping you from using 1/2400 ships either. Remember though that the relatively complex movement rules means that large navy combat would take a long time to resolve. Even an engagement with just 6-8 ships can take two hours or more, especially if you put out a small island or two to hunt each other around in a Benny Hill manner. For miniatures, I can recommend Langton Miniatures and GHQ. Langton is a bit more expensive, but have by far the largest range with everything from the biggest ship-of-the-line to tiny cannonboats and even dockside scenery. Langton also have starter sets of four ships which is plenty enough for an entertaining game. GHQ on the other hand is cheaper with a smaller range, but have far from bad miniatures.  One of my Spanish ships Finally, putting together ships with full rigging and ratlines is extremely fidgety business. Don't attempt this is you get puzzled by plastic sets of space marines. Also, each ship can be pretty expensive, especially if you include bells and whistles like resin bases, banners and ratlines. On the other hand you can do well with just 4-5 ships, which means that you can put more effort into each one.  my fleet being put together lilljonas fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Jan 5, 2010 |
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Jan 5, 2010 00:34
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Lord Commissar posted:Haha I just looked at Pegaso's website, and they list the American Revolution figures under Old West. It's all the same, yahoo's with guns and lassos. And indians. They wouldn't call it the French and Indian War if it wasn't in the Old West. And 54mm can be fun, and it can be intimidating. Less so if you don't choose something as stupidly detailed as a samurai in full armour, and if you don't look at Pegaso's site or Military Modeling and compare yourself with those guys. They are just sick. 
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Jan 5, 2010 00:46
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lilljonas posted:Warhammer Historicals: Trafalgar Added to your section of the OP. lilljonas posted:It's all the same, yahoo's with guns and lassos. And indians. They wouldn't call it the French and Indian War if it wasn't in the Old West. Lassos? Also, at least F&I/SYW would be closer. Old West is about 100 years off (give or take).
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Jan 5, 2010 00:51
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Lord Commissar posted:Added to your section of the OP. The Lone Ranger is a costume drama about brotherly love during the tumultuous American Revolution. No but really, I think you would be surprised by how little most Europeans are taught about American history, especially pre-WW2. I'd be surprised in you could find a single Swedish higschool student at the average school who knows the difference between the French and Indian War, the Revolutionary War and the Civil War.
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Jan 5, 2010 01:06
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