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Lord Commissar posted:Osprey added under the FAQ section. Any real or what if battle of the last 50 years. Army lists cover: # Cold War 1946-90 (America, Britain, China, France, Soviet Union, Warsaw Pact, West Germany) # First Indochina War 1948-54 (France, Viet Minh) # Korean War 1950-53 (Communists, United Nations) # Arab-Israeli Wars 1956-82 (Arabs, Israel) # Vietnam War 1957-75 (America, South Vietnam, North Vietnam) # Indo-Pakistan Wars 1965-71 (India, Pakistan) # Angolan War 1975-90 (Angola, South Africa) # Ogaden War 1977-78 (Ethiopia, Somalia) # Soviet-Afghan War 1979-89 (Mujahideen, Soviet Union) # Iran-Iraq War 1980-88 (Iran, Iraq) # Falklands War 1982 (Argentina, Britain) # Gulf Wars 1991-03 (America, Britain, France, Iraq) # Modern 1991+ (America, Britain, China, France, Germany, Russia)
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Jan 2, 2010 12:14
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 14:40 |
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lilljonas posted:
Warhammer Historical and Warmaster Historical are pretty idnetical to their fantasy counterparts, with obviously some additional rules to cover one or two special rules/scenarios. If youve played either WFB or Warmatser you could pick up the historical counterparts in minutes. Personally I much prefer Warmaster Historical to Warhammer Historical, but thats more about my enjoyment of grander scale games.
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Jan 2, 2010 13:26
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Most of my 10mm are Pendraken and I am a massive fanboy of Dave's work. Its dead cheap as well. A lot of my BKC is Pendraken, and I have recently started a American Civil War project using Pendraken. Dont think Ive got any pics of my ACW stuff yet. These are some Pendraken tanks to show quality  Click here for the full 1200x538 image. And heres some American infantry by Pendraken (all the vehicles are Pendraken in this pic other than the Shermans in the background)  Click here for the full 1200x614 image.
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Jan 2, 2010 14:17
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No Pun Intended posted:I forgot I had a copy of Sharp Practice flitting around. Do tell us how it plays as it looks interesting. It plays great. But the emphasis is on fun- dont expect any points values, or tournament style play, or even pick up style games. It needs a GM to get its full flavour and it plays to a proper scenario style play. The card activation mechanic is not to everyones liking, especialy players used to traditional UGOIGO style wargaming. Personally I love the card system, it adds some great tension and allows you to use the cards in creative way to spring surprises and narrative twists into the game. We have had 4 or 5 games of it, and so far all the players have finished them with huge smiles on their faces. Saying that the game play itself isnt silly- in fact we have had some incredibly tense moments and twists and turns in the fate of each side that have kept all the players gripped. Also if you dont snigger at playing with characters called Richard Fondler and Major O'Stereotype you are a bit broken.
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Jan 2, 2010 17:27
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Lord Commissar posted:Cool. Pendraken packs often are a good mix- my ACW starter pack had loads of infantry, some cav and artillery. Pendraken also sell specific points costed armies for Warmaster Ancients/ Medieval and Blitzkrieg Commander.
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Jan 2, 2010 17:29
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PaintVagrant posted:Have any of you guys played the warmaster-based historical rules? I loved warmaster Check my posts! ;p Ive played them all extensively and their derivatives like BKC and Black Powder. Warmaster is a great system, and I think the historical versions are an improvement on the original.
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Jan 2, 2010 19:14
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PaintVagrant posted:Is it just me or does that 10mm pendraken stuff look a lot nicer than than FoW models? I think they are! Could just be the paint jobs though :p
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Jan 2, 2010 19:16
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Oops not played Black Powder yet. Just read it lots- plan on getting a game of it together in a couple of weeks.
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Jan 2, 2010 19:51
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Lord Commissar posted:You're playing in 6mm, right? How are you converting distances? 6mm and 10mm. Converting to cms, but fiddling range bands a wee bit. Rules as written are pretty much in 12inch range band, so we are making each range band 10cm instead. That way both my basing systems for 6mm and 10mm pretty much conform to the suggested frontages of a standard unit (240mm)in the rule book.
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Jan 2, 2010 19:58
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Lord Commissar posted:
Will these do? http://www.pendraken.co.uk/sub%20page/plains.htm or these http://www.pendraken.co.uk/sub%20page/frenchindian.htm
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Jan 2, 2010 19:59
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My 6mm Nappies are on 60x30mm bases and we are using 2 bases to equal 1 standard unit. For 10mm ACW (and any other BP projects from here on in) I will be basing 4 figs to a 25x25 base and using 4 bases to 1 standard unit.
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Jan 2, 2010 20:07
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Lord Commissar posted:I haven't decided how to base them yet, honestly. Ratio-wise, they should be on 8mmx8mm bases, but that seems kind of weird. You are multi basing them right? Thats the only way to go with 10 and 6mm. In fact when the English Civil War expansion comes out this year I will be multibasing all my 15 ECW stuff too I think.
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Jan 2, 2010 20:46
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Lord Commissar posted:Yes, probably 2x2. But I don't know how wide to make the actual base. 25mm or 1 inch square would be perfect.
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Jan 2, 2010 21:03
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You should get into it. Its like crack. The options are endless, whether that be manufacturers, rule sets, periods, armies etc. You can never have enough. /me looks at huge pile of unpainted lead and groaning book shelf of rulebooks and rocks and sobs
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Jan 3, 2010 10:48
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Sounds interesting. DBA always seemed a little too rocks papers scissors for my liking, and very biased towards tournament play. Mind you its quick to paint an army up for it, you dont need too many figures so thats a bonus.
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Jan 3, 2010 13:16
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OK heres something we havent covered yet- moderns. Ambush Alley http://www.ambushalleygames.com/    Ambush Alley is a wargame 'simulating' asymetrical warfare ina modern setting. Ive played it mainly for Iraq and Afghanistan. I know a few wargamers find ultra moderns a little distasteful and thats fair enough. Ambush Alley has a fantasticly clever system all based on reactions, which means its a perfect game for solo play. Again like some other systems it eschews loads of gun stats etc in favour of keeping it simple. The designers premise is that most modern assault rifles are fairly similar in effect and the most important factor is the ability of the troops using them. In ambush alley the 'to hit roll or morale check is always a 4+, but what idfferentiaites forces ability is the dice used to roll for it. So a untrained militia/jihadist type in somalia firing from the hip (weve all seen the photos!) may well roll a d6 for his shooting, but the Delta Force operative holed up in his downed black hawk (yes they have a whole campaign book for playing Black Hawk Down) may well roll a d12. The other clever mechanic is the Trained player (thats the player in charge of what is called Trained forces- ie regular soldiers) never know exactly what he is facing. The board is set up with 6 hot spots on, which the insurgent player places where he likes or as dictated by the scenario. He is then given a pool of maybe a dozen insurgents to set up as he sees fit around these hot spots. Now every end of turn he dices randomly to see what reinforcements he gets and where they appear from- weve had games where the poor insurgents going against a squad or 2 of USMC (which is the usual amount of troops for the trained player) have ended up with no more than a handful of reifnrocements the entire game and have quickly been neutralised (a trained player only has to move into contact with a hotspot to remove it from the board- if the enemy dices their reinforcements appear at a neutralised hotspot- tough you lose them) but on the other hand we have had them recieving dozens and dozens of troops a turn. The rules are fairly simple, but give a real feel for modern combat. The regular troops are hard(ish) to kill but generally have to check causalites and try and evac when a man goes down (they can leave them but they then lose morale dice- ie they might start on d10 morale biut for every casualty they leave they lose a quality of dice - ie go down to a d8) whereas the insurgents die in droves to the superior fire power of the soldiers. Things also get tasty when random events happen, and you get to turn a card. This can be anything from improved morale or firepower of the inrugents through to a M1 Abrams turning up to support the beleagured soldiers. More than likely in my experience you find yourself on the end of a Technical or the car you were all hiding behind turns out to be a IED. Its a fantastic system and no 2 games are ever the same. We have played one of the starter scenarios in the book a good 5 times now and its never been close to the same game twice. Weve gone from USMC wiping out inurgents like something from a Michael Bay film through to 3 USMC holed up in abuilding with loads of their colleagues dying on the floor round them surrounded by 40 angry insurgents). The game is written for 15mm, but will work with any scale. For 15mm you only need a 2ftx2ft table which means its a nice easy set up for most dining room tables.
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Jan 3, 2010 14:01
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Cakefool posted:I can understand how people would find that distasteful but I'm really interested. Asymetrical games & the system you described sounds fast & exciting, as far as moving bits of tin around the dining room table goes. It is. I didnt reall go into the reaction system in my big old post. Basically the insurgent player doesnt have a turn as such, not like in a traditional IGOUGO system. Their 'turn' is basically all about reacting to the actions of each trained players squad. For example the regular players 1st suqad activates, meaning he can chose to move and fire or fire and then move. At any point a insurgent unit that can see or comes into line of sight, can attempt to interrupt the trained players action. In turn the trained player can attempt to react to this interruption. So the USMC leaves cover and comes in to line of sight of 2 jihadist groups. The 2 groups attempt to interrupt the USMC. One group passes its check to interrupt and the other fails (like a intiative test). Now the USMC can dice to react to the succesful interruption. This could mean that as they leave cover they spot the jihadists group attempting to get a bead on them and they are able to open fire first (if they passed their reaction test), or if they failed the reaction test, will start to take incoming fire from the jihadists. Im not sure if thats clear, it sounded simple in my head, and it plays simple,. just hard to describe. They suit solo play too very well. The rules are avialable in pdf and arent too pricey- give them a go!
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Jan 3, 2010 14:19
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Should have just copy pasted this example fromt he rule book! Example: The Regular player activates one of his units and the Insurgent player announces that three of his units within LOS are going to interrupt. We’ll call the Insurgent units Alpha, Bravo, and Charlie. The players make a Reaction Test for each interrupting unit, starting with the one nearest to the Regulars and moving out. For simplicity’s sake, we’ll say that Alpha was closest, Bravo next closest, and Charlie was furthest away. The Regular player has some bad luck with the dice and loses the check against Alpha, wins the check against Bravo, and loses the check against Charlie. Now that the players know the results of all three Reaction Tests, they resolve the actual interruption and reaction fire. The Insurgents against whom the Regular player lost Reaction Tests are resolved first: Alpha and Charlie. The interruption fire of the unit nearest the Regular unit is resolved first, then the next nearest, etc. In this case, that means that fire is resolved between the Regular and Alpha, and then Charlie. The Insurgent player throws the Firepower dice for Alpha, and the Regular player throws his unit’s Defense dice. Alpha is having a bad day and causes no casualties to the Regulars. The Regulars now get to return the favor with their reaction fire. They cause one casualty among the Insurgents, who pass their Morale test and Stand. Next the exchange of fire with Charlie is resolved. Like Alpha, Charlie fails to cause any casualties among the Regulars. Despite losing a die of Firepower for reacting to a second interruption in the same Activation, the Regular’s reaction fire is lethal. Charlie loses three insurgents. Charlie’s luck goes from bad to worse when their Morale Check leaves them Shaken AND the unit Shrinks by one less-than-enthused rebel. Now all successful interrupts have been resolved, it is time to resolve the exchanges in which the Regular passed its Reaction Test. In this case, there is only one, with Bravo. The Regular rolls his Firepower dice, now reduced by two dice, as he is reacting to the third interruption in the same Activation. He still manages to cause one casualty to Bravo, though. Bravo passes its Morale test rains fire down on the Regulars, causing one casualty. The Regulars pass their Morale check and can finally move – albeit with a Movement reduced by 2” for reacting to three interruptions in the same Activation! The Regulars move 4” into a courtyard and are now within LOS of Insurgent unit Delta! Delta declares an interruption, which is legal as the Regulars weren’t within Delta’s LOS at the time of their activation. This interruption is resolved normally, although the Regular’s Firepower is no reduced by THREE dice for being interrupted four times within the same activation!
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Jan 3, 2010 14:27
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Danger - Octopus! posted:I really like the sound of this. I've got some 28mm 80s soviets and afghan freedom fighters that would work well... Now the hard work to persuade a friend that they want to play as well They would work excellently. Also it plays well solo, Ive played with myself (ooher) a few times and had good games. Also Ive heard this said a number of times before on SA - why is it hard to convince your friends (who I assume are wargamers) to play with you. Just do a decent demo game and fish them in. Our gaming group started with WFB and 40k exclusively (back in the midsts of time, about 15 years ago) and we now play pretty much 995 historicals.
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Jan 3, 2010 20:28
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Well my gaming group all have wives and kids, we get to play every fortnight. I think its preferable to us all going out getting pissed in some pub. I get what you are saying but in my experience it seems that lots of people who play GW games exclusively just dont knwo there is something else out there. Trick em into playing. Invite them along and then tell them what they are playing. If that fails beat them to death with a copy of Black Powder.
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Jan 3, 2010 20:45
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Lord Commissar posted:Well, they recommend 20mm for 28mm figures, don't they? Yes, but thats per figure. At 10mm you will want to stick 4 or so figures on 1 base.
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Jan 3, 2010 22:11
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Iron Squid posted:I saw the post above about Ambush Alley. Skirmish? Try Force on Force from Ambush Alley Games Grander scale- Cold War Commander of course!
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Jan 4, 2010 08:17
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It annoys me when firms dont put pics up. I guess though for most companies they are pretty much 1 man shows, and photographing a huge catalogue of products is a time consuming job they feel is better spent on product development. Plus here in the Uk we are lucky enough to have a massive round of wargame shows (theres at least one a month somewhere with a couple of hours drive) where traditionally most people have done all their buying in the flesh and can see the products first hand. If its any help I own a load of Old Glory Romans and Mujahadeen. They arent the best quality castings, but I think they are perfectly usable and paint up OK. They are pretty cheap so thats an obvious plus!
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Jan 4, 2010 19:32
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Nice Trafalgar write up lilljonas. Our gaming group has the rules and we all have a fleet each (from Langton) but we are yet to bust them out and play it. too many rules too little time. 
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Jan 5, 2010 08:26
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lilljonas posted:The Lone Ranger is a costume drama about brotherly love during the tumultuous American Revolution. No but really, I think you would be surprised by how little most Europeans are taught about American history, especially pre-WW2. I'd be surprised in you could find a single Swedish higschool student at the average school who knows the difference between the French and Indian War, the Revolutionary War and the Civil War. Indeed. It always amuses me wheb trolls and tossers online start trying to rag on us Brits about the AWI as if people here still get upset by it. I wager as lilljonas says that 90% of the UK population couldnt even tell you when it happened, who fought and who won. I went to a good school (too many years ago to remeber) and it wasnt once talked about in my history classes. Nor was the American Civil War. Ive ony found out about what happened in those through wargaming and my only personal reading/study. Actually thats a good point for discussion. Who needs fluff when you have history. Wargaming has taught me poo poo loads about world history. I also have a penchant for historical fiction (yeah I know most of its poo poo, but I still enjoy it) and often reading a piece of fiction gets me pumped up for a new army or rule set, which in turn gets me excited about reading non fiction to ind out what really happened.
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Jan 5, 2010 08:34
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To be honest most companies I have dealt with have been good- a couple of my Minifigs vehicles had broken incomplete bits, and I emailed the guys there and they sent me replacements by return of post. Same with Baccus. I wanted an alternate mix of foot and command strips in their packs and they were more than happy to sort out exactly what I wanted.
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Jan 5, 2010 18:01
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Cold War Commander arrived in the post. Good choice. Its similar to Epic but more akin to Warmaster. Its awesome. And yes those brass etched rotors are cunts.
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Jan 5, 2010 22:19
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Lord Commissar posted:Cosplay is anime poo poo. Yeah its not cosplay. Arguably one of my other hobbies (airsoft) can be closer to that, although I do try and avoid that look. 
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Jan 5, 2010 22:22
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Looking at the army lists, might need to fiddle them a bit for what I want to play. I'm thinking the Afghan Mujihadeen could do with guys on horseback and technicals rather than just infantry. However, right now it's time to start painting some vehicles. Yeah I was going to add technicals to my Mujihdeen- the Somali list has them in iirc. You could use hroseback guys as recce troops.
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Jan 6, 2010 08:31
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With my 28mm ww2 stuff from Artizan I used Corgi 1/50 vehicles- perfect match and they are prepainted! Cheating I know but they look good.
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Jan 7, 2010 19:26
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Cakefool posted:How do they compare to GW's heroic 28mm Elephantitis sufferers? The pic above says it all.
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Jan 7, 2010 20:14
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No Pun Intended posted:Except the aircraft Battlefront sell are 1:144. Are they? Thats 10/12mm scale. Thats good to know as I need some planes for BKC.
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Jan 8, 2010 08:10
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No Pun Intended posted:Yes they are.. It greatly confused me at first, I am not sure why it is that way either. You could always look at the Wings of War miniatures as they also are 1:144. Thats a good point, I never thought of that one. Ive got loads of WW1 wings of war planes but never tried the WW2 one. Mind you WoW planes are like £9 each, which is ridiculously expensive in comparison to the rest of my 10mm scale armies.
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Jan 8, 2010 08:56
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No Pun Intended posted:
Im glad our gaming group arent the only oens who do that!
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Jan 9, 2010 09:43
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BeigeJacket posted:
I'll take a copy of Black Powder (our gaming group could do with an extra copy) if theres one left. Mail me at amrypooins@gmail.com
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Jan 9, 2010 14:58
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lilljonas posted:I just ordered 96 infantry dudes. 6mm is crack.
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Jan 9, 2010 18:22
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That looks fine ot me. I was going to do the same but I am a lazy arse with more money than sense, so I bought one.
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Jan 9, 2010 18:23
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Painting for the first time since my daughter was born 10 weeks old. On the table tonight are Baccus' 6mm French Horse artillery limber teams.
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Jan 9, 2010 21:59
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Lord Commissar posted:How can a baby be born 10 weeks old? 10 week ago, I was distracted when I typed it.
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Jan 9, 2010 23:23
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 14:40 |
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lilljonas posted:On an average, how much time does it take for you to paint 6mm stuff? How many colours do you use? Is there any reason to do techniques from larger scales such as highlighting, washing etc? I'm trying to figure out if 96 baccus samurai will be done in a week or a year. Hmm. Good questions. OK for my Napoleonics this is how I tackle them. I undercoat every thing black to start with. I personally dont wash 6mm, but many people do. I basecoat the main colours, so say for my Brits...  Click here for the full 1200x315 image. I start by painting the sleeves and coat tails on them red. I then paint the cross straps in white. I then do the trosuers in light grey. I then go back and put a small highlight in lighter red on each arm. I then paint the muskets, faces and hands and other small detals. Then I go back and paint in the cuffs in their appropriate facing. I try and use a black lining technique. That is to say I try and leave a small amount of black showing through between each colour I paint. I find this gives the cleanest effect at 6mm. I also cheat a bit, as I base mine in 2 ranks, I paint the fronts of the rear rank in a very quick and simple way, and I paint the backs of the front ranks in just a quick rushed way. I paint the backs of the rear rank in a detailed manner, and the fronts of the front rank also in a detailed manner. Then when I base them you can hardly tell the whole figure isnt painted in an equally careful way. Remeber you are trying to paint them as a unit not a model. This is very improtant for 6mm. Try and think of them as a Monet style painting. Up close as single models they dont look great but on a tabletop as a unit they look OK. This pic is a work in progress close up to give an idea of what they look like early on.  Click here for the full 1200x773 image. A unit of 144 figures will take me about 3-4 hours I would say. I take my time and I am not the fastest painter inthe world. You should be able to do 96 Baccus Samurais in an evening easily. My technique for 6mm and 10mm vehicles are quite different though and do involve wahsing and dry brushing. Serotonin fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jan 9, 2010 |
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Jan 9, 2010 23:30
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