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Merou posted:How do I come up with this money without taking more student loans while also paying my debts down and not living in ramen? I know I should probably have a roth IRA or whatever the gently caress, but I need the money in a year, not when I'm 65. If you go back to school full-time and get other loans, you can put your loans in deferral until you're finished. This will likely be the fastest way to get to a new job, but it will probably involve some more student loans. At any rate, I'd get rid of the CC debt posthaste. You have enough to pay it off in savings and still have enough for an emergency, so just do it. Haphazardly overpaying something without a plan isn't very mathematically sound. If you want the feel-good of paying something off, debt snowball. If you want to pay the least amount of interest, pay the highest interest rate first.
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May 6, 2010 01:22
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Actually without a credit card payment, and not having to pay the student loans once I start I'm not really put out very much. An extra 600 a month, x 12 months is 7200 a year. Which is more than its going to cost per year. gently caress yeah. I'm just going to pay that credit card off then. I'll miss you ball of safety I call my checking account.
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May 6, 2010 03:23
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Small savings here, but if you buy a year in advance and quit subscribing on a monthly basis, you could save some money on the XBL account. http://deals.woot.com/deals/details/90476a1e-40c4-4b35-9f13-b7bb627b6978/xbox-360-live-12-month-subscription-gold-card-free-shipping#10 $34 for a year vs $108 (12*$9). I know its a small amount, but that $74 could definitely be spent in a better place (Its a month an a half worth of payments for one of you student loans).
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May 6, 2010 06:52
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does anyone have any good excel templates they like to use? i'd love to be able to use mint but it doesnt work in the UK and i need to get my house in order. Not in any bad situation just i'm pissing money up the wall on crap instead of sticking it in savings.
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May 6, 2010 10:49
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Lyric Proof Vest posted:does anyone have any good excel templates they like to use? i'd love to be able to use mint but it doesnt work in the UK and i need to get my house in order. Not in any bad situation just i'm pissing money up the wall on crap instead of sticking it in savings. Microsofts website has 100 excel templates you can use, but they're all made to be pretty and aren't as useful as I'd like.
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May 6, 2010 12:10
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Lyric Proof Vest posted:does anyone have any good excel templates they like to use? i'd love to be able to use mint but it doesnt work in the UK and i need to get my house in order. Not in any bad situation just i'm pissing money up the wall on crap instead of sticking it in savings. I downloaded the PearBudget sheet earlier this week. It's still too early for me to give an honest review of but it was recommended in one of the budget related threads that pops up on this forum. https://www.pearbudget.com/spreadsheet
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May 6, 2010 13:03
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I'm graduating and am trying to budget out some options for post grad. Here's how things will shape up: Income: $2500/mo + Health and Dental Ins + Expenses (Mileage etc) Expenses/mo: Rent: $415 Utilities: $85 Internet: $47 (I don't have cable tv, just internet, thanks Hulu) Gas: $50 (when not taken out of expense account) Groceries: $300 Grand total of $897. I've got total savings of: $0, total cash: $0 (I'm tapped out trying to graduate). I have $7,798.25 in credit card debt. Min payment is $161 and the APR is 13.24%. My job only lasts until November 2. After that I'm not sure what I'm going to be doing so here's what I'd like advice on: I'd like to save a good chunk of money each paycheck just in case I don't get a job right after the 2nd. I'd also like to make good payments on my Credit Card (I'd like to pay it off ASAP while still having some disposable income for things like going out to eat once or twice a week, going out to the bars once a week or so). I'm also trying to find out if it's feasible to buy a new Macbook Pro (I need a laptop for work and the one I have now is dying after 4 hard years of college life). The one I'm looking at is around $2800, and Apple has a financing option of quote:*Get 18 months deferred interest on your first Apple purchase of $2500 or more. If balances are not paid in full within 18 months, interest will be charged from the purchase date at a 22.99% variable APR. So hopefully I would get the 18 months to pay it off with no interest or at least pay off as much as possible. Here's the help I'm looking for. Help me figure out the X's: I should pay $X / mo on my credit card. I should save $X every month. I should only spend $X on entertainment (going out to eat, bars, movies etc). With all this in mind, is it feasible to buy this laptop? If yes: How much should I budget each month to make sure most or all of it is paid off in 18 months? Finally, keep in mind that I don't know if I will have a job after November 2nd. Thanks.
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May 7, 2010 23:10
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Before your job ends, you'll collect $9000 after expenses. Meanwhile you owe $8000 at 13%. Buying a laptop would be dumb.
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May 8, 2010 00:40
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Miss Fats posted:Income: I'm not a huge techie, so would you be kind enough to enlighten me why you need a $2800 laptop to do a $2500/mo job?
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May 8, 2010 17:14
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Miss Fats posted:I'm also trying to find out if it's feasible to buy a new Macbook Pro (I need a laptop for work and the one I have now is dying after 4 hard years of college life). The one I'm looking at is around $2800 Not to pile on, but if you need it for work, then work should pay for it. It is unreasonable for them to expect you to buy equipment costing that much right when you start working for them.
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May 9, 2010 00:23
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Zeta Taskforce posted:I'm not a huge techie, so would you be kind enough to enlighten me why you need a $2800 laptop to do a $2500/mo job? I had this conversation with my sister when she "needed a laptop for school". There's just something so awesome about a Macbook Pro that a regular Macbook, or Windows/Linux based laptop can't compete with. Inept posted:Not to pile on, but if you need it for work, then work should pay for it. It is unreasonable for them to expect you to buy equipment costing that much right when you start working for them. You should be more concerned with your $7,798.25 in credit card debt. If you pay $1500 a month starting on the first of next month, you'll be done by November 2nd. If you save the extra $100 a month this leaves you, you'll have around $1600 after your last payment. Your current computer won't last you 6 more months? Get a $200-300 netbook. If your current computer is 4 years old, you won't notice much of a performance loss, if you get any loss at all. If you must buy a Mac, why not buy a Macbook (nonpro) either used but still under applecare, or refurbished? Then when you're asolutely sure you have a new job, and can pay cash, you can spend the 2800 on the laptop you really want. That way you won't risk needing to pay the 22.99% retroactive interest for 18 months if you're unable to pay it off.
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May 9, 2010 17:47
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For the past year, I've gotten started on the whole 'monthly bills' thing. I have a cell plan for 45/mo and a starter credit card with a $1000 limit that I pay off monthly. Once each, I've missed a monthly deadline. For the cell phone, I ended up making a double payment the next month, and the CC debt($120 that month) was paid off about five days late. I'm new to the credit rating game - will there be any repercussions from those at all? I have no other credit builder than those two at the moment. If relevant, I'm in Canada.
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May 9, 2010 20:36
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I'm not buying the laptop but I'll answer some of the questions anyway.Zeta Taskforce posted:I'm not a huge techie, so would you be kind enough to enlighten me why you need a $2800 laptop to do a $2500/mo job? shifty posted:I had this conversation with my sister when she "needed a laptop for school". There's just something so awesome about a Macbook Pro that a regular Macbook, or Windows/Linux based laptop can't compete with. I want the MacBook Pro because a) I like Macs better than computers, and b) I use my laptop for everything including TV/file storage/etc so I like having a laptop that can do that well. The reason for the MacBook has almost nothing to do with the job and everything to do with what I want in a laptop while also having something I can use at work. Inept posted:Not to pile on, but if you need it for work, then work should pay for it. It is unreasonable for them to expect you to buy equipment costing that much right when you start working for them. It's a contract job that only lasts for a few months. I need a laptop for work but not the just specifically the Macbook Pro that I want.
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May 9, 2010 21:19
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Koskinator posted:For the past year, I've gotten started on the whole 'monthly bills' thing. I have a cell plan for 45/mo and a starter credit card with a $1000 limit that I pay off monthly. As far as I know, it won't affect your credit unless you're more than 30 days late, and the companies don't often report it unless its 60 days past due.
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May 9, 2010 23:39
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Miss Fats posted:The reason for the MacBook has almost nothing to do with the job and everything to do with what I want in a laptop while also having something I can use at work. Okay, except you can't afford it right now so you should look at other cheaper alternatives and hope an awesome computer that you like is available when you have no credit card debt and a steady job and can afford it. If you only spent money on rent/gas/groceries/utilities, you'd manage to save ~$9600. You already admit you want to go out and eat 1 - 2 times per week and go out to bars (in addition to spending $300 on groceries for just yourself, by the way, which is a pretty large number) so you'll probably have much less than $9600. You already have $7,798.25 in credit card debt. That leaves you with a balance of $1802. And you want a safety net for when the job runs out. It may be a lovely computer but it eats up about 30% of your savings and you don't have a job lined up after this one.
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May 10, 2010 03:00
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For the love of god don't buy a MacBook Pro. Does it not bother you that you have $8k in debt and you want to ADD to it? Like others have said, take that money and actually pay part of your debt with it, ESPECIALLY since you don't have guaranteed income come November 2. You're an adult now, time to be responsible. Income - Expenses = $1603 quote:I should only spend $120 on entertainment (going out to eat, bars, movies etc). quote:I should pay $1483 / mo on my credit card. quote:I should save $0 every month. Good luck! Qaz Kwaz fucked around with this message at 23:28 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 23:19
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So I just opened a new account at a credit union and found out my credit score is 803. We have a 1997 Nissan Altima that is going to die soon, and it may be in our best interest to replace it immediately. Does anyone have an idea of what kind of APR I'd be looking at for a car loan? My credit union's lowest was 3.5 and judging by how the woman at the CU talked to me about my score I'd be closer to that than the higher rates, but I know some dealerships run crazy low APRs to get people in the door.
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May 12, 2010 15:40
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Brain Curry posted:So I just opened a new account at a credit union and found out my credit score is 803. We have a 1997 Nissan Altima that is going to die soon, and it may be in our best interest to replace it immediately. Does anyone have an idea of what kind of APR I'd be looking at for a car loan? My credit union's lowest was 3.5 and judging by how the woman at the CU talked to me about my score I'd be closer to that than the higher rates, but I know some dealerships run crazy low APRs to get people in the door. 3.5% is an amazing rate, and 803 is an amazing score. I’m a loan officer and I wish more of our borrowers had scores that high. The only question I have would be: Because 3.5% is such an amazing rate, are there things that you have to do in addition to get that rate, like have a checking account or direct deposit set up with them, or have your mortgage through them? The other thing, and this seems weird on the face of it, is don’t obsess about the rate (too much). People are sometimes surprised how little the rate affects the payment. For instance $15000 over 3 years at 3.5% is $439.53. The same loan at 4% is $442.86. That is 75 cents a week. That means if you don’t have the exact services with your credit union to qualify for their exact lowest rate, but you are getting something close to it, don’t think you have to rearrange your entire financial life to get it. Likewise, if you see some incentive financing through the dealer for lower, keep in mind that auto manufacturers can tell their financing arms to take a loss on the loan so the parent company can move more metal from their lots. Even if they gave you zero percent, it wouldn’t cut your payment that much. Because you are getting such a great rate, you will probably do better to negotiate a good price, see if they will give cash back in lieu of the incentive financing, and go through your credit union. A lot of BFC gets wet dreams over PennFed, but I believe there is something to be said with just dealing with your local credit union, keeping your money in the community, and knowing where and who to call if you have questions or have to modify something in the future.
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May 12, 2010 16:14
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Zeta Taskforce posted:3.5% is an amazing rate, and 803 is an amazing score. I’m a loan officer and I wish more of our borrowers had scores that high. The only question I have would be: Because 3.5% is such an amazing rate, are there things that you have to do in addition to get that rate, like have a checking account or direct deposit set up with them, or have your mortgage through them? I just signed up for savings and checking with them and set them up for my direct deposit. Zeta Taskforce posted:Because you are getting such a great rate, you will probably do better to negotiate a good price, see if they will give cash back in lieu of the incentive financing, and go through your credit union. We bought our last car through a credit union, and it was great to call the same person with questions. The company I work for now is set up with named customer service reps so you have the chance to build a relationship with the person who helps you. Thanks for the quick reply and advice. We owe more than twice what our house is worth, and our mortgage holders won't talk to us about modification until we're behind on our payments. Even though my name isn't on the loans, it is on the title so I'm bracing myself for a credit hit. I'd like to get ten years out of the car we buy, so I'm thinking this may be the time to do it.
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May 12, 2010 17:21
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Brain Curry posted:Thanks for the quick reply and advice. We owe more than twice what our house is worth, and our mortgage holders won't talk to us about modification until we're behind on our payments. Even though my name isn't on the loans, it is on the title so I'm bracing myself for a credit hit. I'd like to get ten years out of the car we buy, so I'm thinking this may be the time to do it. I have mixed thoughts about loan modifications. I’m all for them when a borrower has lost a job or had some other unforeseen change to their life status, and they need a modification to stay in their house. I’m for them when a borrower did something dumb and bit off way more than they could chew when housing was booming, and is now sinking. The situations that I’m against are when people got a loan with reasonable terms, they can afford the payment, they have no plans to move, and they just happened to buy at the wrong time, and owe more than what its worth. You know your situation more than anyone, no one can stop you if you are OK with it, you certainly don’t need my approval, but you should research any impacts to your credit, your tax situation, and anything else I’m not thinking of off the top of my head.
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May 12, 2010 18:57
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I have a small credit card question... I got one of those letters from BoA a while ago saying that my rate was going to change to 24.x% APR from 13.99%, and since I had a balance of ~4300 at the time, I picked the opt-out choice so I could keep the rate as it was. I paid off the card (yay!) 2 statements ago so I was expecting it to close. But it's still there! So what should I do? I got the card in 07 and it is my second oldest card (oldest is from 04). I could use it to buy a pack of gum to make the card not self-terminate, but would that be the best thing to do? Or should I just let it close from inactivity, or from whenever BoA decides to close it from the opt-out option?
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May 12, 2010 19:29
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Zeta Taskforce posted:I have mixed thoughts about loan modifications. I’m all for them when a borrower has lost a job or had some other unforeseen change to their life status, and they need a modification to stay in their house. I’m for them when a borrower did something dumb and bit off way more than they could chew when housing was booming, and is now sinking. The situations that I’m against are when people got a loan with reasonable terms, they can afford the payment, they have no plans to move, and they just happened to buy at the wrong time, and owe more than what its worth. You know your situation more than anyone, no one can stop you if you are OK with it, you certainly don’t need my approval, but you should research any impacts to your credit, your tax situation, and anything else I’m not thinking of off the top of my head. Yeah we bought in 2006 with a no-income verification loan. We financed 80/20 with the 20% being a 15 year balloon. It was stupid, but we didn't lie about our income, and our income to debt ratio was just enough to barely squeak by. We weren't trying to flip our house or anything. We were hoping to be able to refinance to better terms when the house went up in value. We've managed to pay every month this far, but we had a renter and my wife was working two jobs, neither of which we have now. The house also needs a lot of work, and we don't have the money to do it even if we wanted to pour more money in to it. We've been struggling with not paying, but the house is now worth about 40% of what we owe in principal alone. The house across the street is renting for 1000$ less a month than what we pay, not including maintenance or repairs. We've sacrificed a lot to pay our debts, including thousands in back tuition that my wife got stuck with in her parents' divorce. My wife cashed in her 401K to buy this house, and we have no retirement savings. I just can't find the upside to continuing this situation when moving across the street would save us so much. We're not sure if we'll wind up being able to modify our loan or if we'll wind up with a short sale, but I can't see maintaining the status quo.
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May 12, 2010 19:33
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Brain Curry posted:Yeah we bought in 2006 with a no-income verification loan. We financed 80/20 with the 20% being a 15 year balloon. It was stupid, but we didn't lie about our income, and our income to debt ratio was just enough to barely squeak by. We weren't trying to flip our house or anything. We were hoping to be able to refinance to better terms when the house went up in value. We've managed to pay every month this far, but we had a renter and my wife was working two jobs, neither of which we have now. The house also needs a lot of work, and we don't have the money to do it even if we wanted to pour more money in to it. We've been struggling with not paying, but the house is now worth about 40% of what we owe in principal alone. The house across the street is renting for 1000$ less a month than what we pay, not including maintenance or repairs. We've sacrificed a lot to pay our debts, including thousands in back tuition that my wife got stuck with in her parents' divorce. My wife cashed in her 401K to buy this house, and we have no retirement savings. I just can't find the upside to continuing this situation when moving across the street would save us so much. We're not sure if we'll wind up being able to modify our loan or if we'll wind up with a short sale, but I can't see maintaining the status quo. Yeah, it sounds like you are really struggling. You probably couldn’t afford the house at the time, but like so many people bought into the idea that it might be a reach, but if you didn’t jump when you did, it would be an even bigger jump next year, in 2 years. Then they told you you could refinance, that things would get easier over time since your payment would be fixed but you and your wife would get raises, progress in your career, etc. Now you are stuck in the house, but you can’t sell, can’t refinance, you still can’t afford it, and you are looking at years of this. Most of the loan modifications out there reduce rates, I have not seen a lot of principal reduction modifications. That’s what you really need since you just owe too much money. You might be better off pursuing a short sale. You won't qualify for another mortgage so you will renting a cheap place for a while you rebuild your savings and credit. A warning though, you may be taxed as regular income on any debt that is forgiven.
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May 12, 2010 19:59
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Parsnip posted:I have a small credit card question... I hate Bank of America. If your credit is otherwise excellent and you will still have access to enough credit, then even though you will take a short, modest hit on your score, you will more than OK. You don’t need to be one of those people who keeps accounts around that they hate because of some fear about your credit score like accumulating FICO points is a hobby.
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May 12, 2010 20:04
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Zeta Taskforce posted:Most of the loan modifications out there reduce rates, I have not seen a lot of principal reduction modifications. That’s what you really need since you just owe too much money. You might be better off pursuing a short sale. You won't qualify for another mortgage so you will renting a cheap place for a while you rebuild your savings and credit. A warning though, you may be taxed as regular income on any debt that is forgiven. We're working with a friend of the family who's been able to get some principal reductions recently. He's not charging us or anything, but he works at a real estate/mortgage/title/insurance company and has been through the process with his clients and his own house. We're in south Florida, so there's a lot of people in foreclosure here, and it seems that the lenders are starting to negotiate. I'm still not sure how much my credit will be affected, but I'm preparing for the worst.
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May 12, 2010 20:15
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Is there any reason not to participate in a stock purchasing plan (withheld from paycheck) that matches half your contribution up to 3% (i.e. the company matches 3% to your 6%)? The company in question is GE. You can also put in up to 10%, but they still match 3%. I'm thinking it's a good idea to participate at 6% to max out the employer match. Am I correct?
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May 12, 2010 22:57
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Hurricane Jesus posted:Is there any reason not to participate in a stock purchasing plan (withheld from paycheck) that matches half your contribution up to 3% (i.e. the company matches 3% to your 6%)? The company in question is GE. You can also put in up to 10%, but they still match 3%. I'm thinking it's a good idea to participate at 6% to max out the employer match. Am I correct? Totally right. If you can afford it (do you have no debt?) then definitely, without a doubt contribute at least 6%, or even the full 10% if you want to get really aggressive. Just remember that the more you're able to contribute now the more you'll have later.
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May 12, 2010 23:01
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It's for my girlfriend who's just started there (part-time, she's a student). She has no major debt - the increase in income from the job should cover it in a few months, so no worries there. She becomes eligible for this and an RRSP after three months. I haven't taken a good look at the RRSP info yet, but my view on both is that it's far better to contribute to this now, even part-time, instead of "taking the cash" which in the end will probably be spent and never get the return it would from the RRSP or stock purchases.
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May 12, 2010 23:09
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Small question, and I don't know if this is the right place to put it or not, but I'd rather not start a thread for a minor issue and haven't seen a better megathread to put it in. My girlfriend moved up to MI from VA this time last year. In the several months prior she had found a breast lump, had it tested, found it wasn't cancer but was told to have it removed anyway, and had it removed. Once she moved up here, she got one or two minor bills forwarded from her old address, which she paid. As far as she knows, she's paid everything off. No one has called, and no new bills have arrived. Today a letter arrived from a debt collector from VA, claiming there was a test done that she didn't pay for, to the tune of $127. The letter provides contact information for the collection agency (obviously), the name and account number of the creditor (a Norfolk hospital lab), and a notice that "Unless you notify us in writing within 30 days of receipt of this notice that you dispute the validity of this debt, or any portion thereof, we will assume the debt is valid." The issue is, as far as she knows she's paid everything off; this is the first we've heard of this charge. However, it was a hectic time where she was living back and forth between two different places, breaking up with her ex, and preparing for a big life-changing move. That said, any records of these bills and payments she might have are either inaccessible in VA or are just lost. I have the thought in my head (correct me if I'm wrong) that conventional wisdom is "don't loving talk to the collection agency." How do we go about resolving this? $127 isn't bank-breaking, but it IS significant to our low-income household. If there's no other option than to pay it, we'll pay it, but I'm curious if there's more to it than that, if we can contact the lab in question or hospital directly to figure it out. Or if, without records, we're screwed regardless.
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May 16, 2010 03:48
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I'm about to settle a credit card debt with a collection agency - but I'm a bit confused. 1) I had them fax the letter stating that this payment will finalize payment/eliminate the debt. How can I be completely sure this is legitimate? 2) What kind of toll does this take on my credit report?
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May 17, 2010 15:57
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This thread should provide you with further info about debts and debt collection (at least, debt collection practices in America). Hope this helps! 
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May 17, 2010 16:29
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Nighthand posted:Small question, and I don't know if this is the right place to put it or not, but I'd rather not start a thread for a minor issue and haven't seen a better megathread to put it in. Stuff like that happens so often, unfortunately. A doctors office bills the insurance company, which doesn’t cover it for some unknown reason, doctors office doesn’t call you, insurance company doesn’t call you, they just sell it to a collection company, which does call you. First, verify the best you can if this is yours, and since it is fairly small, just pay it when you can, even if it’s 6 months from now. It does have an affect on your credit, and you may pay more for credit than you otherwise would, but we see so many of these at the credit union I work at that if everything else is solid, and there are not too many of these medical bills on there, we practically ignore them.
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May 17, 2010 16:31
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froglet posted:This thread should provide you with further info about debts and debt collection (at least, debt collection practices in America). Hope this helps! Thank you for posting this because I looked through A/T for it but I couldn't find it. I didn't see this thread in the OP, but it seems very applicable.
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May 17, 2010 16:44
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Added it to the OP; agreed, it's very useful.
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May 17, 2010 16:50
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Quick question about student loan repayment. I just graduated with a BA and will be going overseas to get my MSc. I will also be moving to the UK permanently. Because of the huge hassles involved with making student loan payments from outside the US (fees are outrageous), I plan to pay off all of my student loans in 3 years. Will have about 50K in loans (all federal, mostly subsidized) by the time I finish my master's in 2011. Is it possible for me to enroll part time in online classes at a community college once I'm done with my master's simply to take advantage of an extra year of student loan deferral? It would be great if the government could cover the interest for another year while I work full time/aggressively pay the loans off. I did the math and enrolling part time at a community college, which is all you need for deferral, would be cheaper than paying the annual interest. Seems too easy, though. I'm trying to figure out the quickest and most efficient way of paying these drat things off, so any experience with this would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance .
amethystbliss fucked around with this message at 21:52 on May 17, 2010 |
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May 17, 2010 21:48
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amethystbliss posted:Quick question about student loan repayment. I just graduated with a BA and will be going overseas to get my MSc. I will also be moving to the UK permanently. Because of the huge hassles involved with making student loan payments from outside the US (fees are outrageous), I plan to pay off all of my student loans in 3 years. Will have about 50K in loans (all federal, mostly subsidized) by the time I finish my master's in 2011. You have to be taking at least 2 classes to defer student loans. I know people who have done this. You could also do a forbearance (interest accrues and then gets added on as principal at the end of the forbearance) for up to a year, 3 times for a total of 3 years. You don't need to be in college for this.
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May 17, 2010 22:08
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Zeta Taskforce posted:I hate Bank of America. If your credit is otherwise excellent and you will still have access to enough credit, then even though you will take a short, modest hit on your score, you will more than OK. You don’t need to be one of those people who keeps accounts around that they hate because of some fear about your credit score like accumulating FICO points is a hobby. Excellent, then I will just let the card go I do have access to enough credit (more than I should have, I feel, given my income right now) so whenever it decides to close itself is fine with me. Thank you!
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May 17, 2010 22:11
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Accidently posted this in the stocks thread, so reposting it here since I am a newbie. Ok, ETrade is frustrating me. I rolled over money from my old 401k from when I was a substitute teacher to an ETrade Rollover IRA. Granted, it's a small amount of money, $414 approximately, but it's still worth investing, right? So I go through their automated questionairre, and it dumps me on step 3 out of 4 telling me their recommended solution is to build my own portfolio, even though the previous 3 questions I stated I have no investing experience and would rather have things chosen for me. So with the recommended amounts for my large cap and small cap and all that, I decide to just go ahead and look at some mutual funds and do it myself. However, the transaction fee for each is $20! That's going to cost me 5% of my rollover IRA for each time I distribute my money into mutual funds! Is there any solution to this that doesn't end in me losing 20%? I should go ahead and state that losing this $414 doesn't bother me in the slightest, I just want to invest as much of it as I can without blowing a huge chunk on transaction fees. In case anyone is wondering, here's the results I got: Large Cap 44% Small Cap 16% International 20% Fixed Income 17% Other 0% Cash 3% edit - got a reply in the stock thread telling me that diversifying $400 is a joke and to just throw it into an index fund instead, whoops, ETrade confused me into thinking I should diversify... sublyme fucked around with this message at 01:32 on May 18, 2010 |
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May 18, 2010 01:11
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Pillowpants posted:You have to be taking at least 2 classes to defer student loans. I know people who have done this. .
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May 18, 2010 01:30
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sublyme posted:edit - got a reply in the stock thread telling me that diversifying $400 is a joke and to just throw it into an index fund instead, whoops, ETrade confused me into thinking I should diversify...
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May 18, 2010 01:42
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