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The very argument that net present value was invented to obviate.
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# ¿ Feb 29, 2016 06:53 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 23:50 |
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Getting rid of the stock is a really solid move. You're not involved in the company, you don't like the risk, you don't need to take the risk, so dump the risk. You have to discount the family opinion almost entirely because they're involved and will be the most wishful of wishful thinkers. The only downside is that you might be bummed out if you miss some growth in a few years, at which point you can say "Aw drat. Well, I made a really good decision at the time." Which will be true. As far as where to put the money, top two priorities would be to max out 401k/IRA limits or pay off the house - do them in whatever proportion you like. Blinky2099 posted:keep a few thousand dollars of shares as your fun speculation money
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# ¿ Mar 9, 2016 22:20 |
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The main thing that can go wrong is that they won't understand the contribution and withdrawal rules. They could even end up owing tax penalties just by ignoring it. They will have to keep track of it every year, you can't really do that for them. Personally I would sniff around for simpler ways to give them money.
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2016 17:25 |
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A good time to consider changing cars is when yours is starting to cost a lot in repairs on a regular basis. Or, if you have more money floating around, when you get tired of your current car and want a change. Regarding budget, it really depends. If your income is high, you can afford a more expensive car. If it's low, buy the cheapest car you can. I'm not sure there's a huge advantage in buying used vs new unless you're really struggling financially. The minimum "nice new car" is something like $15-19k, and if you can get a good rate like 1% on a loan, it's reasonable to use a loan to buy it. The higher downpayment the better - 50% is a good target. So looking at your actual question, here's a starting point: What can you manage with a 1% loan and 50% down?
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2016 20:30 |
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Lots. Google "Car loan calculator" or something and you'll get there. An $18k car with 50% down and a 36 month 1% loan needs $9000 in cash and $258 per month. Remember that $18k is the total price including tax and fees, not the sticker price. My credit union is offering 1% - 2.5% depending on details.
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2016 20:44 |
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When I did that one time, somebody picked it up and dropped it in the mailbox and it eventually came back to me.
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2016 15:28 |
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Nice work!Sefal posted:I think i'm going to save up this year and maybe buy an house next year.
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2016 13:20 |
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Moneyball posted:They should change the thread title to "Your credit score is not a video game" This is a novel one, we've never had this one before!
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2016 18:13 |
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Busy Bee posted:If I wanted to deposit around $10,000 - $15,000 into a friend's bank account, what implications (taxes etc) will he be responsible for, if any? Can't answer this without knowing the reason. What are you paying him for? Could be anything from a gift (you owe the tax, but there probably won't be any) to a 1099 payment (he'll owe income and self employment taxes on it which could be 40% of the total). The orthogonal question is whether it's legal activity - if you guys are running drugs, that doesn't affect the tax situation but the bank is keeping transaction records so you might get tracked down.
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2016 17:35 |
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Then it's fine and nobody gets taxed. On the other hand I strongly advise you not to go into the house buying business with your friend until you have a good written contract in place.
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2016 18:18 |
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Allllll right. Pedfed credit union has declined a legitimate credit card transaction for the last loving time. Anybody got a good suggestion for a credit card that won't refuse to work at regular intervals?
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# ¿ May 7, 2016 04:12 |
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Uggghhhh I used to have a Citi card and I dropped it because of poor behavior they were doing back in '09 or so.
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# ¿ May 7, 2016 04:29 |
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Aah crap. Thanks y'all. E: Wow, citicard website is down right now. I AM NOT IMPRESSED slap me silly fucked around with this message at 05:03 on May 7, 2016 |
# ¿ May 7, 2016 05:00 |
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Slut pig pointed out that the barclay is the one with chip and pin for international poo poo so I ordered that one instead despite annoying "points" and "redemption". Wish me luck.
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# ¿ May 7, 2016 06:59 |
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My credit card company's web site literally has a button called "Dispute charge" that goes to a little web form where you can type in what happened and upload a copy of the email exchange. Not a big deal.
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# ¿ May 12, 2016 02:26 |
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22% is rapacious and you should pay off the card as soon as humanly possible. Ideally you would buy a car in cash without getting a loan, but that is not always realistic here However you should be able to get a car loan for 5-7% which is way better than the credit card. Make as big of a down payment as you can. Meanwhile, be working hard on getting a better paying job. OH and buy a cheap-but-reliable used car, do not buy a new one.
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# ¿ May 19, 2016 05:12 |
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Oh, excellent. That will be a load off your mind when you've paid it off. Keep up the good new habits so you don't rack up that kind of debt again. Also, give some serious thought to holding off on the car purchase as long as you can. How do your parents feel about letting you use the car now? What about after you move out? At least you should chip in for the insurance, but if you can put off a car loan for a year or more it could definitely help you out in the long term. Cars and rent and food and insurance add up pretty quick and $23k/yr is kind of poo poo pay so you should definitely push hard on getting a better paying job even if the one you're looking at right now falls through.
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# ¿ May 19, 2016 05:30 |
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See thread title... put it like this, if closing that account has a big enough effect on your credit to affect a house purchase, you weren't ready to make the house purchase anyway.
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# ¿ May 21, 2016 16:04 |
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Sadly, no. The best you can do is whatever interest savings accounts are offering, which is 1% at best. It's not a big deal, just keep it in cash until you join Club House-Poor.
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# ¿ May 23, 2016 02:55 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:oh i just want to have a virtual allocation that i can play with So open separate accounts and put $X in one and label it "Emergency Fund". Put everything else in a different one labeled "House". It's not a big deal
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# ¿ May 24, 2016 16:26 |
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Moneyball posted:While I'm normally really conservative with my money, if I could get my first paycheck all over again, I'd probably still blow it all on purpose. Nobody here is going to agree with that.
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# ¿ May 26, 2016 04:29 |
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Yeah, Schwab and Fidelity reputedly have much better customer service than Vanguard, too. Haven't tried 'em myself.
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# ¿ May 27, 2016 03:38 |
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Rich people stealin' all mah customer services
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# ¿ May 27, 2016 15:24 |
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I have a couple kids, a 401k, 529 accounts for both of them, life insurance for me and the mrs. I'd like to draft up a will in case my wife and I die. Is there a preferred way to do this? I don't have a house, but I have about 500k in insurance/retirement/etc, and I want to make sure that it's not a huge fight should we all die. Make sure you set up the beneficiaries appropriately on all those accounts. That takes precedence over anything in your will. Do it in consultation with a lawyer if it looks complicated or you want to use a trust.
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# ¿ Jul 1, 2016 19:26 |
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Stop trying to control how your girlfriend handles money? You're telling her where you're at - that's really all you can do. Other than make sure you don't get your finances too entangled with hers before the two of you have worked out an approach that's mutually viable.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2016 19:39 |
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As far as I know it's correct. You should ask somebody who actually knows anything. There's no need for any dispute, the law is cut and dried and the bank will ignore the will.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 04:36 |
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Did he make the withdrawal in person? Probably not... Caller ID spoofing is a thing, it could have been spam. If he's worried, though, he can call the bank directly at their published number.
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2016 02:44 |
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Loopoo posted:Vive
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 13:02 |
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I have one. It's cool but it's not worth extending yourself for. Wait until you have the cash, then decide if a Vive is really what you want to spend it on at that moment - having the $$ actually in hand and knowing that your bank account balance will drop by a grand or two adjusts one's perspective a bit, I find. I would not expect wonders for netflix and vids. Yes it works and is neat, but it's not really comfortable enough or amazing enough that I would bother using it for that instead of a regular tv or whatever. It's pretty low res.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 17:57 |
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Was a beneficiary named for the 401k, and who was it?
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 20:56 |
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Shima Honnou posted:Apparently not but the boss released it to the family since he had known my uncle for like 15 years they'd been working together. The boss doesn't get to decide - if there was no beneficiary it probably has to go through probate and it may be available to creditors. Whoever has it had better talk to a lawyer. Is your aunt his executor? This kind of sounds like a clusterfuck in the making...
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2016 16:15 |
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"Long periods of time" is the key insight there. Like, 30 years plus.
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# ¿ Nov 30, 2016 21:48 |
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Someone got access to my credit card number and bought a bunch of poo poo online. I have about half a dozen closed PenFed credit card accounts on my report due to this sort of shenanigans, but the currently open one still has the original opening date.
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2016 22:22 |
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What math are you doing there? There's a reason corporations 1099 you every chance they get, and it's not so you can get more money.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2017 03:59 |
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Napoleon Bonaparty posted:~bonds~ Step 1: what kind of bonds are they?
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2017 22:33 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 23:50 |
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Ok, that limits the universe a lot so that's helpful. You still want to know for each of them was it issued before or after 2005? And is it paper or electronic? Because there are those different types of EE bonds. I'm only really familiar with post-2005 electronic ones. For those, it's probably best to keep them at least 20 years, because at that point you are guaranteed they will be worth double what you paid for them (equivalent to ~3.5% interest, which is quite good for a such a low risk investment). Sell them earlier, you have to take whatever you get which is likely to be less.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2017 23:20 |