How much does everyone think is 'enough' in savings to move out of home? I'm currently studying at university while living with my family, and have a part time job at a supermarket.
froglet fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Mar 23, 2010 |
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2010 09:23 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 23:59 |
Nam Taf posted:You have nowhere near enough. Rent alone costs more than AUD$120 a week here in Brisbane, worse if you're in Sydney or Melbourne. You then have to pay for your own food, etc. When I graduate university, I am pretty much on my own unless I enrol in further study. The supermarket job is primarily so I can afford transport to and from university and for my textbooks, but I'd like to have some savings for when I graduate. My family will in all likelihoods not allow me to remain at home unless I remain a full time student, so I'm trying to prepare just in case (as being inadequately prepared is better than not being prepared at all). froglet fucked around with this message at 10:17 on Mar 7, 2010 |
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2010 10:09 |
This thread should provide you with further info about debts and debt collection (at least, debt collection practices in America). Hope this helps!
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# ¿ May 17, 2010 16:29 |
Eurekapile posted:Can anyone help me figure out about loans? From what I've heard here in BFC, student loan debt is not discharged by bankruptcy - why would you want to take on debt that can't be erased by bankruptcy to pay off something that can (the credit card debt)? If I were you I'd pay minimums on the credit card until my situation improves (i.e. that full time job starts) and start tackling the debt. Also, have you tried applying for scholarships to cover your last quarter?
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# ¿ May 25, 2010 16:41 |
Eurekapile posted:I mean, I'm planning on paying it all back. I start working full time in two months (work and classes at same time). I just need some extra money for now. Planning to pay things back is nice and all, but emergencies do happen - job loss, family death, etc. If your credit card has an exorbitant interest rate I can see why it'd be appealing, however. You would need to check with your local government about the legitimacy of such loan application websites (I'm in Australia so I wouldn't know the process of verification - I'd assume the government would list reputable lenders). If you're really wanting to follow through with your plan, however, find all the (reputable) private student loan lenders, ensure you get the best deal possible, and only borrow the amount needed for school. Also, what is the rate on your credit card? If it's a particularly disagreeable number, have you tried negotiating with them? Try calling them up and asking for a lower rate - it has been known to work! Edit: oh, and what Qaz Kwaz said.
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# ¿ May 25, 2010 17:26 |
polyfractal posted:-Are there any good spreadsheets to use for budgeting? Use Quicken? I'm considering Mint as well I've only heard good things about Pear Budget, and there's plenty of free budgeting spreadsheets available for download on the Microsoft Office website.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2010 03:39 |
This may or may not be the right place to ask but, here I go. I've recently been reading about managed funds. While I don't want to start investing immediately, I'm wondering what other goons think about managed funds and if it would be a good medium term investing vehicle. Has anybody had any experience with similar funds? Or should I just forget about it, wait until I have 20,000 just lying around then invest it in something else altogether? If it makes any difference, I'm 20, I study full time and have a part time job that allows me to make regular (if somewhat small) contributions to savings and superannuation. My expenses are minimal due to being a stereotypical goon and living with my parents while I complete my degree.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2010 15:37 |
slap me silly posted:Yeah, the retirement thread should be helpful. You can use 1-3 index funds with low expenses to create a very robust portfolio for any investment term. But considering your place in life I'm tempted to say your savings money should go into the superannuation or cash savings for now - you probably don't have cash accumulated beyond your short-term needs. Also make sure you are choosing something good for your superannuation, and put in enough to get the full co-contribution or whatever. Also note that I don't know much about Australia so I'm extrapolating here based on US stuff Yeah, while I can't say I've maxed out the contribution allowed for superannuation (considering that the max seems to be several times more than what I earned this past financial year), I did ensure that I contributed the amount that would get me the max super contribution the government provides to those on low incomes. Oh, and I double checked to make sure my super fund still charges some of the lowest fees in the industry. My plan for the immediate future is to just continue saving and adding to my superannuation, and I'm only really thinking about it now since I just found out about managed funds today. (Also thanks!)
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2010 16:33 |
UFO posted:Is there anything I should be prepared to say/do when I go down to the bank and challenge their transfer? Read the terms and conditions of the accounts (mortgage and savings/chequing), and see what it says there in regards to unauthorised transactions/automatic payments when you don't pay the mortgage on time. It could be that when your mum took out the mortgage, that account was listed as the one where the mortgage would be automatically debited. Also, get your mum's name off that account immediately - it sounds like if she were to default on her accounts and a judgement was sought against her that account would be one of the first to be emptied. Tell your mum that you need to get her name off that account right now. IANAL, though, this is just what I'd do if I were in your situation. froglet fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Aug 6, 2010 |
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2010 04:08 |
Suicide Watch posted:I'm pretty sure this would be the right place to ask this. Depending on what you're meaning, I'm interpreting it as you wanting to know either 'how many values equal "yes" or "no"', or 'make an average of the values that determine "yes" or "no"'. Say I wanted to find the average of all the values that are less than or equal to 5, the AVERAGEIFS function is rad (AVERAGEIF works too, except the function would be "=AVERAGEIF(C4:C13, "=YES", B4:B13)"). Here's a screencap because I'm bad at describing things: Assuming you're wanting to count how many 'yes' values or 'no' values there are within the data set, the COUNTIF function is the one to use. (and here's another screencap for your enjoyment): Not quite sure if this is what you're looking for, though. froglet fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Sep 19, 2010 |
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2010 10:42 |
Rodge posted:Anyway, maybe I'll actually get somewhere on this, maybe I'll cave, maybe I'll start feeling really ill all the time again and forget, but I'd never even have thought about all of this stuff if it weren't for you guys. So thanks. Also: If they're not paying you, leave. Refusing to keep proper records will continually get the business in trouble, and if you're even remotely responsible for the finances you can find the tax department breathing down your neck if they decide to perform an audit. Feel free to start a thread of your own so we can *These thing will happen regardless
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2010 12:56 |
Rodge posted:Jeepers. You need to figure out a plan as to how you can a.) save money and b.) not get treated as the family piggy bank. I know they're your family and they probably have a million ways to guilt you into it, but you need to set some boundaries and stick to them if you want to make meaningful progress. I'm not saying refuse to give any money to them, however you need to say 'okay mum, I will give you $x per month for my rent and board. I can't give you anything above that'. If they question it, say that it would be unfair of you to just move out and leave them high and dry, and this way you're doing your bit for the household without having to worry about pulling your weight. Also, you should tell your brother about how your mum is using his money to pay the mortgage. Keeping the truth from him isn't doing him any favours either now or in the future. Is he seeing a therapist/mental health professional at all? If so, you might want to have a discussion with him or her about how to break the news to your brother if he's in a fragile state and that sort of thing would really upset him. froglet fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Oct 11, 2010 |
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2010 03:54 |
Out of curiousity, is there anything about finance that you wished you were taught? What is the most valuable lesson you've learned about money/finance in general? Also, while looking up 'finance' on youtube to see what was out there, I found this video that pretty aptly explains the financial choice between renting and buying a house. (side note: the rest of the videos are pretty good, too - it's from a non-profit organisation dedicated to free education)
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2010 16:25 |
Merou posted:I have a question about loan interest. I've noticed that if I pay more than the minimum amount on my car loan, the remaining balance does not reflect the additional amount I've paid. All that happens is when I get the next months bill, the additional payment is subtracted from that one. This makes it seem like regardless of whether or not I were to pay the balance early I'm paying the full amount of interest in advance. Check the terms and conditions of your loan. It could be that you're not allowed to make payments to the principle outside of the payment plan. You might want to check and make sure that's a.) in the contract you signed and b.) legal whereever you live.
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2010 02:13 |
LordSeXXXenb3rg posted:Okay, the basics: I think this would be only a solution as a very last resort. 401k is a retirement account, and nobody should ever make that sort of decision lightly. Have you tried getting a consolidation loan, or possibly a hold put on your student loans if you're struggling paying everything off? That might help by giving you some breathing room.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2010 03:28 |
Vestral posted:Another point I'd like opinion on, I have a permanent part time position at my job, where I'm contracted for 25hrs/wk which cannot be reduced without firing me, and short of stealing/punching out my boss I'm not getting fired (go labour laws!) but work I 40hrs a week, the rest made up of casual hours. These extra hours can get cut, but in the foreseeable future, they won't be. I get the feeling I should budget with only my contract hours/pay in mind, but what would I do then with the extra $250/wk I'm actually making? Would I have a savings amount built into my budget PLUS this extra money? You would have a savings amount built into your budget PLUS this extra money. I'd recommend just acting like it doesn't exists. If you're having a hard time keeping track of what your savings money is for, you could try out having two savings accounts - one for 'emergency money', another for saving up for a car. This would be highly dependant on if the bank you're with allows that sort of thing on the cheap, though. Australian retirement planning isn't too difficult. Here's a link with All You Need to Know About Superannuation (courtesy of the Australian Securities and Investments Commission), they can explain superannuation much better than a goon ever could. (Actually, now that I think about it, the FIDO website may be a good resource for many Ausgoons - moana, could this be added to the OP?) Also, the government will match any voluntary contributions you make to your superannuation up to a certain dollar value. However, this is dependant upon how much you earn (if you earn somewhere over the 60k line you're out of luck), and they will be phasing it out eventually. froglet fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Nov 26, 2010 |
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2010 18:31 |
Gloria Hole posted:
Related to this - what is stopping somebody from just walking away from their student debt and permanently relocating to a foreign country? Are there any extradition laws regarding this? I'm assuming since owing money isn't really a crime anymore, Germany or wherever isn't going to revoke someone's visa and ship them back to the US to force somebody to settle a debt - am I completely wrong about this? froglet fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Apr 5, 2011 |
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2011 09:47 |
KennyG posted:As with any legal answer, the short answer is: it depends. I am not your lawyer, but this is a terrible idea. Especially if you are going to go live in the EU. In 2011, the world is pretty connected. It will take them a very short time to find you, especially since as a foreign citizen you will likely need to register with the local government wherever you go. The bank will locate you and then file for judgment in a local court. Most of the western world has reciprocal judgment laws with the United States, basically your bank only needs to show up with a final judgment against you from a US court and they will honor it. I've oversimplified but the days of running off to the French Riviera to escape your debts are long over. You can't hide in the developed world. Oh no, I'm not horrifically in debt or anything (so far I've just paid for everything in cash), I was just wondering what happened if somebody decided to move to Malaysia or France or whatever after accumulating a large amount of debt.
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2011 12:36 |
Zeta Taskforce posted:Can someone summon Murderknobs from the dead? I thought Murderknobs was banned, rather than dead. I always wondered what had happened to the guy... froglet fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Apr 26, 2011 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2011 14:37 |
Guinness posted:Likewise, I'm completely blown away by the number of people who gently caress themselves with a credit card. Where on earth do so many people get the idea that a credit card is just free money? A CC is a very simple concept, and following a couple very basic, very common sense rules make it pretty hard to get into trouble. I understood this when I was like 12, how can you be an adult and not "get" it? The problem with common sense is that it isn't that common. Financial literacy isn't taught in schools and the entire credit industry is based around convincing people that they can "afford the payment" rather than letting them realise how much they'll be paying in the long run if they pay out the minimums only. I'd be interested to read a 'dumb financial decisions' thread. Like a mini-version of zaurg or tuyops thread just for one-off dumb decisions to serve as warnings to other goons. I've got heaps of stories from my previous jobs in retail about the various credit traps on offer and I'm sure there's plenty of people out there who have tales to tell about how one bad decision they made later on hit them hard in the wallet. Then again I'm sure anyone who visits here already knows about the different ways you can screw up your life/credit score or at least can figure it out on their own.
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2011 07:21 |
kaishek posted:Stupid question: It's interesting to hear that panhandling near an ATM is illegal in your area, though.
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# ¿ Nov 23, 2011 03:06 |
moana posted:I think getting stuff like bedframes and couches off of craiglist is the way to go I semi-disagree on this point. Stuff like bed frames, shelves and so on should be fine secondhand, but anything involving fabric (such as mattresses and couches) should be bought new where possible. Why? Bedbugs. gently caress bedbugs. Once they are in your home they are extremely difficult to remove, and the immediate savings you get by buying stuff secondhand is offset by having to pay to remove the fuckers from your house/apartment. Not trying to scaremonger (and there are several other ways for the beggars to enter your home), just that they can be really hard to detect until it's too late and secondhand furniture is one of the primary ways they can get in.
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2011 10:58 |
Something Awesome posted:While this thread has been amazing at answering one off questions I realize that I need some read education on how to get my ship in order and get myself out of the immensely depressing situation I have gotten myself into (broke, depressed, debt up to my eyeballs). Can anyone recommend any particularly good internet resources/reading materials that relate to unjamming a personal financial nightmare? I have google'd a ton of keywords but all I ever get is the same 1 paragraph synopsis on how "*THIS* is the e-book to solve all your problems!". Most libraries will have a few books about getting yourself out of debt. Quality varies but they usually have a whole section about personal finances, so there's bound to be at least one that you'll find helpful. Comedy option: make a thread and let us collectively encourage/mock you into positive net worth.
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2012 04:59 |
sweet_jones posted:I was also fairly intrigued by the idea of having 0.5x of your salary in retirement accounts by 30, 1x by 35, and 2x by 40. I hadn't seen those recommendations before and have been stewing on those figures. Are these generally accepted targets? I've heard of very similar targets before, so they don't look off the mark from what I've read. However, they make a lot of assumptions that may not hold true for everyone, so odds are you will have to save more (particularly if you're planning on taking time out of the workforce to travel or raise a family).
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2013 04:59 |
Suspicious Lump posted:Studying in Australia! Hey, a question I might be able to help with! For starters, I would recommend finding out how much you owe on HECS. The reason I'm saying this is because the federal budget has changed the rules, so instead of it being indexed to CPI (i.e. inflation) it will be indexed to 10 year treasury bonds, which can be up to 6% per annum. This will start happening as of 1 June 2016, which is a while off but if you're doing a PhD this may very well impact you. Also, there has been a revision of HELP repayment thresholds, which means if you earn more than $50,638 you will have to start paying off HECS. For reference, this year you will only have to start paying off HECS if you earn more than $53,345. So, if you're wanting to go the route of undergrad -> honours / masters -> PhD in Australia, the government is going to financially screw you over. I guess it's still a pretty sweet deal in comparison to America? On the bright side, if you make voluntary payments greater than $500 towards your HECS debt you will get 5% of the payment amount forgiven from your debt. So yeah, find out how much you owe and consider paying some of it off in the next 2 years because you might be in for a bit of a shock otherwise. So if I were in your position I would do the following: 1. Keep $10,000 in an easily accessible savings account as an emergency fund 2. Make a realistic savings goal for the 4WD (figure out what model, features, condition you're willing to pay for) and save towards that 3. Find out how much owed on HECS (whip out your Tax File Number and call the ATO on 13 28 61 to find this out) and put leftover money towards the HECS debt 4. If your contract expires in the next 6 months, network like hell. Attend seminars and networking events to get your name out there 5. Try and qualify for whatever grants and scholarships available to PhD candidates Disclaimer - I'm rather cautious and I am particularly wary of the government changes to HECS. That said I am pretty sure at most universities in Australia there are few (if any) tuition costs for doing a PhD if you're a citizen because the university gets some pretty huge incentives for their PhD students, particularly when they graduate.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2014 05:35 |
Suspicious Lump posted:As far as I know it has always been if you earn 50k+ then HECS repayments start kicking in, what changes are you referring to? Nope. This past financial year you would only have to start paying back HECS if you earned >$53k (gross). The change I am referring to is the fact that your HECS debt will be charged interest (instead of being indexed to inflation) and the threshold for repayments to kick in has been lowered. Anyone with HECS debt will run the risk that the interest will outstrip their minimum payments, particularly if you're in an industry where there's high qualification requirements but average pay.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2014 07:33 |
Haifisch posted:There are a few places where they take cash but not cards, surprisingly! I've been to a few concerts in tiny venues where the merch stand didn't take cards. If you go to outdoor festivals/markets/etc, some vendors may not take cards. I've never had a shared apartment laundry that didn't require quarters from you. And of course there's all the stuff alnilam mentioned. Pretty much this. My partner believes that cash is dead, long live debit. It drives me mad because he has this selective blindness to all the occasions we've needed cash and I've had to cover for the pair of us. He is also with a bank that doesn't have many ATM's or branches in our state. I'm definitely going to have to sit him down and ask him to join a bank with branches and ATM's somewhere near us because it is getting ridiculous now.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2014 05:10 |
SBJ posted:I'm in Australia so retirement fund is not really a concern. It's also not something I can use to invest (as all profits go back into the retirement fund, which I cannot touch until I retire). You can use it to invest... for your retirement. Owning a rental property is probably more trouble than it's worth, especially because of the hidden costs of strata, vacancy, etc. Shares are easier in that you can buy them and just reap the dividends, not to mention they're more liquid than a house.
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2014 00:50 |
Madbullogna posted:Which kinda sucks, as logic (in my mind anyway), says that requiring a PIN is more secure, and thus there should be less fraudulent activity/use of stolen cards. If you went old school and had a debit only card, it's completely useless without a PIN. But if you have a regular debit/check card combo, (like virtually everything that is issued these days), you can steal a card and use it everywhere just by pressing 'credit'. Here in Australia it has been enough of a problem that the credit card companies now require a PIN. As of last week you can no longer sign for your transactions.
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2014 23:53 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 23:59 |
Nierbo posted:I just moved to Canada from Australia and have no plans of going back. What would happen if I stopped paying my australian gem visa credit card? (forever) Really depends on how much you owe. If it's $1k, they might get a judgement against you and try to seize any assets of yours still in Australia (bank accounts, property, etc), but I suspect it's unlikely they'll try to chase you across the ocean. However, if you're owing hundreds of thousands in unsecuritised debt (I doubt that's likely) and have nothing in Australia, they might go to all the effort of tracking you down, serving you in a Canadian court and forcing you to pony up. It's not something I'd recommend doing. Even if you're not in Australia, they may start sending bills, collections notices and debt collectors to anyone you've ever stayed with, like your family. Nothing ruins Christmas dinner quite like 'hey kid, good to see you again, the debt collectors are still after you - there's a couple of scary notices in the corner there for you to look at'.
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2016 07:52 |