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Boris Galerkin posted:That’s weird. At my current/new job there was no option on the forms I filled out to dial in my withholding. All the payroll portal asked was how many dependents I had and how I was filing and that was that without mention of withholding percentages at all. There was some wording saying it was a new system or something so I just assumed the IRS in some kind of effort to simplify things just got rid of the self-selectable withholding percentage or something. This sounds suspiciously like the withholding forms I filled out when I started my current job. I put in my filing status and number of dependents and then got smacked with an under withholding penalty at tax time. I have meaningful dividend income and the nice little easy to use HR system had to way to account for that. Thankfully I was able to dig around on the HR portal and find an actual W4 that I was able to fill out online and submit with manually entered withholding numbers. No penalty this past tax season. In fact I got a very small refund.
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Sep 3, 2023 22:14
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pencilhands posted:Hello! Whatever money you don't need for a while (think 10+ years) you can always stick in an index fund (or funds) in a regular brokerage account. You'll have to pay taxes on any gains but the rates are generally lower than what you would pay on ordinary income and there are no limits on contributions and withdrawals. An IRA may also be a reasonable option depending on your income level if you want to ramp up your retirement savings even more. There are also shorter term options as well like SGOV. Over the long term, things like HYSAs and SGOV are going to loose out to index funds. But in the short term stocks can swing around wildly. It might be a good idea to split your money up by how far into the future you expect to need it and then invest the chunks accordingly. Antillie fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Sep 27, 2023 |
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Sep 27, 2023 14:49
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SGOV is yielding 5.28% atm but yield chasing on your efund is a bit silly imo. And the yield curve won't stay inverted forever. The point of an efund is to have cash in a safe and easily accessible place. Getting good returns is the job of other parts of your portfolio.
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Sep 28, 2023 14:36
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5.2% SGOV. Not actually a savings account but fairly close in practice.
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Oct 22, 2023 17:33
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Some places will time gate the employer match portion as a way to encourage retention. This isn't ideal but I don't feel its an issue as long as the time period isn't more than two or three years. You still get the full match in your account from day one it just isn't yours to keep until the vesting period is over. Time gating access to the plan entirely is just stupid imo. But some places do that for some reason. Antillie fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Oct 28, 2023 |
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Oct 28, 2023 12:55
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Yeah a lot of people who take out a personal loan or whatever to pay off/consolidate their CC debt see the zeroed out CC balances as some sort of permission to go and spend even more. And before they know it they are back to being in just as much CC debt as before with a hefty personal loan payment on top of it all. Its not that a debt consolidation loan can't help. Its just that if you haven't fixed the issue that created the CC debt in the first place then it will probably just make things worse.
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Nov 14, 2023 22:37
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Motronic posted:And then the price of the car will be higher. Now I really want to do this the next time I buy a car. Go in, get the best financed deal I can (with no pre payment penalty), then gently caress them over by paying off the loan a week later since I was really a cash buyer all along. Antillie fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Dec 6, 2023 |
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Dec 6, 2023 23:34
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Ham Equity posted:I've heard this is a good way to get hard hosed on dealer servicing. I have literally never taken a car to a dealer for servicing in the past 20 years.
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Dec 6, 2023 23:38
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Are you buying new cars? If you are, not cashing in on the warranty or campaigns/recalls is very silly. Yeah I've only been buying new for a while now. I took my wife's 2014 minivan in once for a recall related to the middle row seats a few years ago. I don't consider that to be "service" in that I'm not getting something fixed because it broke. My old car never had any recalls in the 10 years I owned it. I do the oil, battery, and wiper blades myself. By the time I needed tires or breaks on any of my cars the warranty had long since expired so I take them to a local shop for that. Beyond that, I've just never had anything break. My current car has had two or three recalls in the past year or so but they have all been fixed via software updates overnight. So still no need to take it anywhere. I've still got that minivan, just replaced the factory tires a few months back at Discount Tire and did the battery myself a couple of years before that. I replaced the factory wiper blades a couple of weeks ago. It'll be due for new oil in March. Antillie fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Dec 8, 2023 |
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Dec 8, 2023 23:28
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As others have alluded to one method is better from a math perspective while the other is better from an emotional and motivational perspective. In the end the best plan is the one you can stick to. How objectively good the plan itself is in a vacuum is not very important by comparison. Antillie fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Jan 29, 2024 |
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Jan 29, 2024 22:45
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If you feel the car is or will soon be unsafe/illegal to drive then its worth replacing it. The same applies if its going to need constant repairs to keep it going. I replaced a 143k mile 2001 Honda Odyssey back in 2012 when it became apparent that it was going to need a transmission rebuild every couple of months to keep it on the road. Even if the repeated repairs aren't super expensive at some point you have to look at how much time you are spending getting them done over and over again. I look at cars from a total cost of ownership perspective. So purchase price + finance charges + expected fuel cost + expected insurance cost + expected maintenance cost over a 10+ year period. I get whatever has the lowest total cost among the cars that I feel can fit my needs. If I don't need to finance a given car then that car naturally gets an advantage in the equation. I also do not ever include expected trade in value or anything like that. If I do finance a car then I compare the rate on the loan vs what I can expect from an investment of the same time horizon as the loan duration. So 5 years or less. Equities don't make sense on such short time scales so it really comes down to shorter duration bonds and money market funds. Car loans pretty much always have higher rates than those things so I always end up paying down the loan early. Note that I do not include an early payoff in my initial pre purchase calculation. For this reason I always make sure there are no prepayment limits or penalties when I finance a car. This process means I will probably never own a BMW, Merc, SUV, or truck and I am fine with that. In fact the last time this process did end up with me financing a car for myself it was a new Honda Civic that I drove for 10 years. When I last ran this calculation for my wife we bought another Honda Odyssey. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Feb 7, 2024 |
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Feb 7, 2024 16:10
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root of all eval posted:Crosspost from daily chat: The only thing I've come up with is to use different tickers for different things. Efund in SGOV, new car fund in SPRXX, floating cash in SPAXX, ect... There are a few other short term bond ETFs (and FTEXX I guess) out there that I could probably use as well if I needed more buckets. Its not a great system but it works for me at least. Antillie fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Feb 28, 2024 |
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Feb 28, 2024 01:11
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drk posted:You're partly right here, but you are missing the fact that any money paid in taxes in this scenario could instead be put into a taxable account and grow there. This assumes that you actually invest those additional dollars. I would argue that over 90% of people who contribute to a traditional retirement account do not do this. They take the extra money they get from the up front tax break and just spend it. If you don't actually invest that extra money the potential advantages of a traditional retirement account over a Roth account vanish. This is one of those situations where the math says one thing and human behavior says another.
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Mar 4, 2024 05:36
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My parents bought a bunch of EE bonds for me when I was a baby. Yes you have to pay income tax on the interest when you cash in an EE bond. Well, actually, you get a 1099-int in the mail around tax time, report the income on your taxes, and pay when you file your taxes. If your cashing in a lot of them this could make for quite a surprise tax bill. In my case they were actual physical paper bonds so when I turned 18 my father just didn't give them to me. I knew they existed but I didn't know the amount and he said he would give them to me when they stopped earning interest or when I actually needed them. Overall I'd say it worked out quite well as I was able to put down about 35% when buying my first home by cashing them in. Of course these were 1982 EE bonds paying 9%. I'm not sure modern ones are quite as good of a deal. My kids are getting VTI in UTMA accounts. Paper bonds are a pain in the rear end and so is Treasury Direct. Antillie fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Mar 10, 2024 |
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Mar 10, 2024 05:21
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I had a 14-50 outlet put in my garage and I've found it to be more than enough to top off my EV every night. It cost me $500 to have the outlet installed (I was lucky and my breaker box is about 3 inches away on the other side of the wall.) The charging cable came with the car. (I did have to spend ~$15 for a 14-50 adapter for the "other" end of the cable. It only came with a normal 120v 20amp wall socket adapter.) The actual AC to DC charger thing is built into the car itself.
Antillie fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 04:30
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I dunno, I keep getting WhatsApp messages from people offering to show me how to make 2% per day in either forex or crypto. The crypto based ones will even show me how to do it for free.
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Mar 29, 2024 20:15
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Can confirm that you are set once you hit deductible and/or out of pocket maximum. I just had a surprise medical issue come up two days ago that would have cost me a whole lot more than ~$3k if I had not had excellent health insurance through my job. I did have to fight with the insurance to get them to cover the CT scans. They wanted to know if/why they were medically necessary (they *absolutely* are in my case). My doctor was able to clear that up with a phone call to the insurance company but it was still an annoyance that had to be dealt with. Also, keep an efund kids. Mine just increased my odds of being able to see my kids grow up by allowing me to not delay the procedure just I had earlier today.
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Apr 12, 2024 04:43
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jimmychoo posted:ughhh but then you’ll all know exactly how dumb i am I would argue that trying to fix whatever mess your in by writing it down and asking for help with planning and such proves that you are very much not dumb.
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Apr 23, 2024 03:02
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ultrafilter posted:You need a lawyer. Very much this. This is exactly the sort of thing where a good lawyer is worth every penny.
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Apr 23, 2024 14:46
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I would like to mention: Rob Berger: Focused on retirement planning and investing. Has videos on specific topics as well as periodic live shows where he answers questions from viewers. Sometimes he covers current events. Generally aimed at an older audience and covers some more advanced topics than many channels aimed at newer investors don't touch on much. Has the best intro to bonds video I have ever seen. Bogleheads: Once again retirement investing focused. Has recordings of presentations and panel events from the Bogleheads conferences. Lots of great info but it gets a bit dry at times. Antillie fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Apr 30, 2024 |
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Apr 29, 2024 23:24
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