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esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

So years ago when I went off to college, I opened a joint checking account with my mother. I've been using that account as my primary direct deposit/checking/debit account, but she hasn't actually touched it since inception (like 10 years ago).

Are there any advantages or disadvantages to having this joint account that only I use? Should I remove her from the account, or does her name even really matter at all?

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esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

FrozenVent posted:

If she hasn't touched it in ten years, you don't need a joint account. Remove her from the account.

I'm just wondering if removing her from it has any tax impacts or credit impacts or or any impact besides "sign here" "done"

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

100 HOGS AGREE posted:

My work has a FSA to go along with the insurance. I was looking and I have a health insurance plan with a pretty high deductible ($1400/year) because I am young and healthy and it was the cheapest one. Can I go to like, Vanguard and get a HSA? Is the only requirement having that high deductible?

I'd like to put something every month away for medical expenses, but I'm always worried I'll not use what would go into a FSA and I'd lose it at the end of the year.

The $1,400 is high enough, but there are several other requirements on a health plan that need to be met for it to be HSA eligible. Does it pay for anything before you've met the deductible (besides preventive care), such as requiring that you pay a copay for prescription drugs instead of paying the entire cost? If so, it's not HSA eligible. There are other disqualifying criteria, but that's the usual one.

You can have an HSA outside of your employer, so contact Vanguard or whoever to see if they have any guidance for you.

Also, in general you can't have both an FSA and HSA at the same time (lots of additional rules regarding that), so if your plan is HSA eligible don't sign up for your FSA.

esquilax fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Jun 5, 2014

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

Watch your income versus the Roth IRA limits. It you're over $114k filing single or over $181k filing jointly you're either ineligible for a Roth IRA or are subject to a much lower contribution cap.

If you're in the 33% bracket (or even the 28%) a Traditional IRA might be a better financial choice anyway.

esquilax fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jul 17, 2014

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

God Over Djinn posted:

Ah, I meant the "a traditional IRA might be a better financial choice" statement.


I don't have any links but it works like this: if you use a Roth IRA, you pay your marginal rate (28%) on your investment and get it tax-free when you retire. In a Traditional IRA, you pay no taxes now, and pay taxes on it at your marginal rate when you retire. When you retire you'll most likely have little other income, making your marginal rate a lower tax bracket.

Let's say you retire and your Traditional IRA is your only source of income. If you two pull out $100,000 you'll pay 10% on the first few thousand dollars, 15% on the next few (and so on) for an average tax rate of ~17% on it (at today's tax rates). Whereas with a Roth IRA you would have paid 28% on it, since that's your marginal rate right now.

Roth accounts make sense for people currently in low tax brackets, not so much for others.


Roth accounts also run the danger of double-taxation if you have an emergency and do a non-qualified withdrawal.

esquilax fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Jul 18, 2014

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

Saeku posted:

I'm paid hourly. My job involves occasional travel to other cities by bus or train, 2-8 hour trips each way. What kind of compensation should I expect/attempt to negotiate for that? I don't know if it's reasonable to expect my boss to pay me my normal rate to sleep on a train for eight hours, but I'm not satisifed with losing my days off to travel for work without compensation.

First, if you have coworkers in the same scenario, ask them what they are getting for it.

In general you're supposed to be paid for travel time, though the exact rules vary by state. Try to find them, it may give you an idea about what is a reasonable agreement (e.g. sleeping hours may or may not be covered on a 5 hour train ride). If the rules are too generous to one side, you guys may want to talk it through and maybe change your hourly rate.

When you do confront your boss, try to frame it as "I don't think the current situation is reasonable so I checked the rules, let's discuss" rather than "you're breaking the rules"

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

kaishek posted:

I am turning my brain in knots and need some help with this math. I just had two kids and am going to add them to my health insurance through my employer. My employer covers 80% of my premiums, but none of my spouse or children. So the only benefit they get from being on my plan is I save money on taxes by lowering my taxable income. I am squarely in the 15% bracket, so we can assume that is the savings for pre-tax money spent on premiums.

I believe I can enroll my spouse and children through the health insurance exchange in my state, and have priced out some plans. We may qualify for assistance but I haven't factored that in yet. Just on the basis of pre-tax, it looks like my options are:

Through my employer: $910 per month for spouse + 2 children
Exchange plan 1: $695 per month
Exchange plan 2: $785 per month

What is the "break even point" - where the savings in the premiums is equals or starts to pass the marginal loss of increasing my taxable income? How do I calculate savings beyond that point? Is it price difference * 1.15?

They will probably not qualify for assistance on the exchange, based on how the government determines whether they your spouse and children have an "affordable plan" available. It's worth looking into but don't get your hopes up.

You can calculate whether the insurance is cheaper by multiplying the pre-tax number ($910) by 0.85 (=1-15%). So if you can buy a comparable plan on the exchange for less than $773.50 it would probably be worth taking it. I say comparable, because it's very possible that the plan on the exchange will have higher deductible and copays, and will restrict you to fewer doctors and hospitals than your employer plan.

There are other small advantages to having the entire family on one plan (it gets very technical), so if it's close you might want to put them on the employer plan.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

kaishek posted:

I think I understand because 910*.85 is what I would have if I just took the money instead of paying for the insurance. Got it. And thanks for the advice - I was looking through the benefits packages and found two plans that are fairly similar in terms of network, deductible, copays, etc. But as you point out, the difference even in a best case is about $80/month and it probably isn't worth it like that.

I guess the question is how do they decide if your work plan is "affordable" - at the moment, not including the part my employer pays for (80% of my premiums), I pay 16.67% of my salary for insurance.

EDIT: I see that the standard is 9.5% of income for self-only coverage - so my plan would be considered affordable. But if my wife applied separately (having no employer), she wouldn't qualify for anything because she is coverable under my "affordable" plan?

Yes. Affordability is based on having a self only contribution (i.e. the 20% you pay) less than 9.5% of family income. The cost to cover your spouse and children is not included in those calculations. However, if the plan is affordable for you, it becomes "affordable" for your spouse and children regardless.

Yes, it's dumb.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

kaishek posted:

I am also correct that nothing was done to make premium payments made outside of an employer plan tax deductible, right? That to me seems the dumbest thing of all.

I believe (not an accountant) that if you itemize you're able to include post-tax health insurance premiums in your itemized medical expenses deduction. There are caps and minimums and stuff, so you might get some tax benefit and you might not.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

Ashcans posted:

I believe they are deductible as medical expenses, yes, but only if you itemize (this is what I was told about my cobra payments, at least, so it seems to make sense it would apply to any post-tax premium).

Unfortunately the rule for deducting medical expenses is crap; you can only deduct expenses that exceed 10% of your gross income. So if you go with your employer plan, you would by paying $910 a month, or $10,920 a year - but you can only claim the part of that that exceeds 10%. So if your AGI is $50,000 (as an example), you would only be able to deduct $5,920 in medical expenses.

But just the standard deduction for married filing jointly in 2014 is going to be $12,400, so unless you have $6000+ of other deductions to itemize, it's probably going to be better for you to take the standard deduction than try and itemize your medical costs.

Contributions for employer health insurance (like the $910) are pre-tax and are almost definitely not able to be included as an itemized deduction. You can't get tax benefits twice. Only post-tax medical expenses (like premiums paid through an exchange) can be deducted.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

So - I bought a place in August at 30 year fixed, 4.125%. I got a call today from the mortgage lender that I used, saying I could refinance at 30 year fixed, 3.75%. This is completely free with no closing costs, he assures, because it's within a year of purchase and that's a thing they do.

It seems a little too good to be true - is there anything that I should be concerned about or should look into in depth before I refi?

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

It's a combination of a bunch of things.

Producer price index and commodity prices are way up
The fed has stated that they'll move to more level targeting of inflation instead of just aiming for 2%, which means they'll let it run at higher levels for longer
Anecdotal reports of businesses struggling to find workers
Expectation of increased government spending in proposed bills
Market inflation expectations as defined by relative bond prices are way up
Inflation expectations can drive inflation, even if those expectations are themselves irrational


I honestly don't know what will happen but it's not exactly baseless to expect higher inflation in the next few years.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

How do I go about finding a competent CPA and a competent CFP besides googling for reviews, picking one at random, or asking for recommendations?

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

Is it a forfeited application fee or some kind of application deposit? If you can otherwise verify that the landlord is legitimate, I could see a someone charging a month's rent as an application deposit to ensure that the tenant is serious, and would be refundable if the landlord rejects the application. You would need to get the exact terms in writing.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

PerniciousKnid posted:

How do you actually buy options? It seems complicated.

What specifically are you asking when you say how? The trading screen through Schwab (at least) is very straightforward, the complication all comes from the fact that it's a complicated financial instrument and you need to understand the implications of all 5-10 inputs in order to not do something boneheaded.

In some brokerages (everyone except Robin Hood maybe?) you need to apply and get approved for the ability to trade options before you can actually do so. The ability to buy a call or put should be relatively easy to get access to.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

Magnetic North posted:

I don't know if this is true, depending on your age. A 10 year loan at 8% will cost you about 14 grand, or 4k extra. In a very facile comparison, if you are 30 and you contribute 10k annually to a 401k with 7% return and no employee match with the goal of retiring at 60, you will have 1.444 million. If we simulate paying off this now by starting at 31 instead you will have 1.340 million. That delay has cost you about 100k. If you're 40/41, it's 661K and 608k. (I used this calculator for loans and this calculator for 401k.)

I think the main difference is that your investment continues to compound forever but your debt will only compound over the term. Obviously real life is much more complicated, but anything that prevents someone from utilizing some or all of their tax advantaged space is probably suboptimal, as far as I understand it.

That's not how the time value of money math works. You have to account for the fact that money used to pay back the debt later is money you don't invest or contribute to 401k.

There are psychological advantages to keeping debt and contributing to a 401k or ira but it's not advantageous under optimal planning. The psychological advantage being that It treats retirement savings as the first bucket that can't be touched and not a luxury.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

Teeter posted:

Is it best to bite the bullet and convert the trad balance now, pay the taxes on it for 2023, and then be set up with a proper backdoor trad + roth to move forward with in a few years?

It makes the most sense to max out yours and your spouses 401k first.

If you have leftover money, and your budget and expenses are fine, and you are in the 24% federal tax bracket, and you expect to be at this income for the foreseeable future, and you don't expect to move to a state with significantly lower income taxes - it probably makes sense to budget some cash to convert it to Roth. It still might make sense if some of these conditions aren't met but the math gets a little tougher.

If you have a large amount in the traditional IRA you can partially convert each year, it doesn't have to be all at once. You are prepaying future taxes, so you do achieve a return on this money - the tax savings you'd receive in retirement are much more than the tax amount you pay today.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

Ham Equity posted:

For the new 529 rollover/conversion/transfer into a Roth IRA, are the moved balances subject to the five-year time that applies to conversions and earnings, or since both accounts are post-tax, is it treated like principal, or is this something the IRS hasn't offered guidance on yet?

A friend is looking at doing this, but they want to use the money for a down payment in the next few years. It's less than the $35k lifetime limit, and they're going to split the move over three tax years, but I want to make sure they'll be able to use it for the down payment without penalty.

They have not given any guidance or regulations yet. You (read: a lawyer and/or accountant) would have to interpret the actual law for the limits, tax treatment, Roth treatment, etc.

Be cautious about using any kind of website, even a trusted source like a broker, as definitive in terms of what the treatment actually is.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

RPATDO_LAMD posted:

I saw some stuff about student loan interest capitalization on studentaid.gov and I'm very confused



Isn't that how interest always works? How is this different from "normal" interest on credit cards, loans, or any other kind of debt? Why does the loan exit counseling page have a whole section on "understand when interest capitalizes"?
Or is it that most interest on credit cards, mortgages etc capitalizes automatically but student loans are unique in sometimes not capitalizing? In which case they seem to be explaining it exactly backwards in the hardest-to-understand way.

Yes that's how interest normally works on most things.

In subsidized student loans, when payment is deferred it doesn't accrue interest so there's no interest to capitalize. In unsubsidized loans, when payment is deferred, interest still accumulates and can capitalize.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

dpkg chopra posted:

Both my wife and I have health insurance through work, she’s on a regular FSA plan and I’m on an HDHP.

We’re both fairly new to the US. It’s always been my understanding that healthcare is a nightmare but that generally speaking as long as you have enough to cover your maximum out of pocket, you will never have to worry about insurance not covering your treatment with the exception of pre existing conditions.

Is this generally accurate or am I missing some obvious pitfalls that could result in us getting hit with hundreds of thousands of dollars in fees?

Fortunately this is just a hypothetical currently.

There are some pitfalls. For example, if you go to an out-of-network hospital for instance (one that didn't come to an agreement with your insurer) your insurance will only pay a "reasonable and customary" amount towards the bill and the hospital can "balance bill" you for the difference, which is basically just whatever exorbitant amount the hospital decides to charge you. Mostly, the big thing is to visit your insurer's website and/or call the provider in advance to make sure you are using in-network providers.

There are laws protecting you if you go to an out-of-network hospital in an emergency, but those have their own issues.

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esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

Ham Equity posted:

I was under the impression that most people's work insurance charges extra for covering a spouse, and a lot of them require signing something that says the spouse doesn't have their own employer-provided insurance option; is that not the case?


Adding a spouses typically costs around 1.5x the employee, varying significantly depending on plan. About 20-30% of large group healthplans have some sort of working spouse provision (where you provide an affidavit that says the spouse doesn't qualify for their own coverage, or you get charged additional or are ineligible altogether)

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