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My credit union offers 5% checking/savings up to $25K. Requires dirict deposit which if you are in a pinch, can be handled with a paypal account. Luckily my work allows unlimted deposit breaks, so I have like 5 different banks that my money goes to. I found similar deals at other credit unions locally. (usually 3-5%) No usuage or balance requirments.
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Jan 25, 2010 15:53
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Kobalt posted:Spending is therapy. When I was kicked out of my parents house, I did this. I bought all the game systems and poo poo my family could never afford when I was a kid.
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Mar 3, 2010 15:34
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Piano posted:
I always stat but mailing a dispute with the CRA as not mine/ never late regardless of what it is. You have a small chance of the OC not even responding and it getting removed anyway.
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May 24, 2010 20:19
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Zeta Taskforce posted:Your credit card likely has a complicated way of figuring out finance charge, but the answer to your question is simple. As the balance (slowly) goes down, your minimum payment will go down too, which means you are paying it down even slower as time goes on if you only pay that amount. A lot of cards use a min of 10$ or 1-2% + Interest, which ever is greater.
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Jun 1, 2010 16:33
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ejstheman posted:How does it affect your credit to have inconsistent income? I have two jobs, both paid hourly and both variable. When putting my yearly income on forms, should I just take the average of my last six paychecks and extrapolate it to a year or something? No effect on credit score, but will effect DTI which usually determines how much credit they wil give you. For most unsecured (and even some secured) debt, this is not really verified, so you can exagerate a little, but keep in mind that it can bite you in the rear end if you ever need to file bankruptcy.
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Dec 10, 2010 13:16
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Murgos posted:I've spent many a night in sub freezing weather, outside in a standard sleeping bag wrapped in a poncho laying on a rubber bitch on frozen ground and been plenty warm. You should have no problem being warm at 62F. I've done this, the part that sucks is seeing how long you can hold it before finally leaving your warm cocoon.
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Dec 17, 2010 16:19
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SynMoo posted:I'm looking for a calculator that will let me see how much interest I'll save and how early I'll pay off my auto loan if I halve my monthly payment and pay it twice per month instead of once. They idea is that it cuts down on compounded interest. Amortize at 26 periods a year instead of 12. That should work, you can do it easily in excel....google the formula.
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Jan 5, 2011 16:03
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zantar posted:My fiance and I are getting married in october, and we are also looking to possibly buy a house before that if the opportunity comes up (it's the one we are renting.) No they don't care. In order of importance it's going to be DTI, then FICO (which is sorta binary, pass/fail), and then LTV will determine your pricing mostly. Conventional mortgages are pretty standard.
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Jan 11, 2011 15:08
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They have to refund the fee if you close in 30 days.
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Jan 21, 2011 16:12
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Oakey posted:I know this comes up every so often but I thought I would try again and see if anyone had any advice. I've been using mint.com for somewhat over a year now. I have had everything set up really well and it's been useful, but I am getting pretty tired of having accounts randomly stop working for a few days or the current issue, which is that I haven't been able to actually get to the login screen since Tuesday. I'm using quicken because of the MS Money cancellation, but I must say that I absolutly loved Money better. I've been using it since like 1999. Mint is a fun toy, but I would never use it seriously.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:36
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Oakey posted:Thanks for the advice guys, it started working again today so I guess I'm not annoyed enough yet to try to move to Quicken. I guess I could get by with checking it less, but I always tend to check it after reading BFC so that I can reassure myself I'm doing things well I have everything BUT my main checking account sync. I try not to have too much stuff hitting my checking account anyway because I get pretty paranoid about it. Everything I possibly can goes on credit and then there are only like a few transactions that actually hit my checking account (Mortgage, Taxes, etc.)
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Mar 4, 2011 18:12
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Why not just pay during your grace period and sock the money for the $.50 in interest. I mean if you are that anal...
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Mar 9, 2011 20:08
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Pfhreak posted:Yep! We're working on it. We had some bad habits when we finish our degrees. We're breaking bad habits like crazy. It used to be much higher than this. We ate an absurd amount of thai food. I can understand this and was the same way...once you see it, it's really easy to reduce. I went from like 700 to 250 almost instantly without changing much of anything.
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Mar 10, 2011 18:24
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Remember if you "exaggerate", it has the possibility of making the debt undischargable during a BK proceeding as that is a common (and easy) thing to check during the 341 meeting.
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Mar 18, 2011 23:14
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http://20somethingfinance.com/2010-irs-maximum-allowed-roth-traditional-ira-contribution-limits/ I think you have until mid-April so You didn't miss any deadlines yet...
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Mar 28, 2011 20:24
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Zeta Taskforce posted:I use the 1998 version of Microsoft Money. HAHAHAHA, me too! I used it forever. I actually won the fight after a heavy week of tweaking 2007....and then right when I got it to work perfectly, they cancel it.
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Apr 7, 2011 17:51
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illcendiary posted:Does anyone have experience with credit card limits being lowered arbitrarily? Because I actually do this, I can say the decision to shut down an account is usually a risk based one, and not one of utilization.
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Apr 14, 2011 18:09
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T0MSERV0 posted:A 720 isn't fantastic, but it's certainly not bad. Ummm, most credit products have around 720 as the floor to thier highest tier... it's the bottom of the best in terms of risk based pricing. Remember, every ten points double the increase or decrease of default. Once you get too high or too low, it stops being meaningful.
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Apr 14, 2011 20:37
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Ask for them to lower or waive the transfer fee...sometimes they will do it. Also, Try to get the Havard Alumni card, it has 0% balance transfer fees as a standard feature, and starts at like 7.9% interest I think
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Apr 14, 2011 21:31
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LifelongFan posted:Question about credit scores. I was thinking about buying a car in the next 6 months so I checked mine and it was atrocious (609). You would not have a near 600 score for utilization alone. See the adverse action codes on your credit report if you can...that will spell out the top negative drivers. EDIT: sorry, misunderstood. I would dispute that paid collection every other month until it dropped...I bet they won't verify.
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Apr 24, 2011 03:08
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Merrill Grinch posted:If you do it too often, you'll get turned down for new cards when they check your credit report. They're not entirely stupid. I am almost 100% sure they are not judging based on that criteria (they really can't anyway). What MAY be happening is they will deny you if you have too many inqueries as that is a fraud indication.
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Apr 27, 2011 14:47
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I know a couple of institutions that got burned pretty bad by having someone come in with great credit, and over the course of a month opening up 20 or more credit accounts (commercial and unsecured credit) and then transfering all the money out of country. Most now have a hard limit of inqueries that will start to push you into judgemental/denial just for that.
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Apr 27, 2011 15:06
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KennyG posted:Leasing (with possibly the exception of a business) is a stupid financial decision. I'm not defending leasing, but the usualy reason why it's a bad idea is because people are retarded at math and it's not as simple to find out your costs, not because it's a worse deal. It's actually even if everything else is even, there is just a huge market in making sure it's not.
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May 3, 2011 18:54
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There is a middle ground here. For actual bank backed credit cards, I always keep all info updated on the 5 or so I have even if I never use them. For store cards, if I don't use them in a year, I close them.
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May 27, 2011 20:57
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The Broletariat posted:He bought one for all the grandkids in '92, and my dad said my uncle threw a fit over it, saying how bad of an investment it was. My parents did the same thing when I was a baby and gave me the policy when I was 18. I eneded up cashing it out and dumping it into an IRA to avoid the tax hit.
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Jun 14, 2011 18:16
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Is SUM network just an east coast thing, or is it nation wide? I don't think I've ever found a non-SUM CU anywhere within hundreds of miles from where I live...in fact, I can't think of a small bank around me that ISN'T part of the SUM network.
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Jun 28, 2011 16:22
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Ironically, I can find a SUM ATM more easy then I could find a BoA ATM. They should really push that nationwide and really destory one of the only reasons you would bank at BoA anyway (ATMs everywhere).
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Jun 28, 2011 17:26
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I've had landlords try this twice with me, and both times I got it back by asking for the escrow statements to see how much the final settlement would be.
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Jun 29, 2011 20:59
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That sounds pretty standard...I had the same thing at the last place I worked. 15% discount, buy every 6 months.
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Jul 18, 2011 15:15
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Eggplant Wizard posted:So... what's the deal with depositing foreign checks? Cash it for actual currency and then exchange the currancy at a place that won't gently caress you on the exchange rate...I don't know if that is possible, but I did actually do this with Yen before.
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Aug 22, 2011 19:18
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Stew Man Chew posted:Is there such a thing as a fixed rate credit card any more? My credit score is awesome and I have no outstanding debt at present, does anyone have any recommendations on a bank for a non-Visa credit card? Harvard Alumni card was 7.9% fixed
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Aug 26, 2011 19:47
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baquerd posted:Renting (at a fair price) is always going to be cheaper than buying *because* you're not building equity. If you can buy a place and have renters pay your whole mortgage or more, you're taking advantage of their ignorance. Unless the value decreses year over year, then you aren't building equity anyway.
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Aug 31, 2011 20:41
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baquerd posted:You're still building equity as long as you're paying your mortgage. You're simply paying a high premium for that equity if your house value is decreasing. If you bought a home in 2006 for 250K and you financed 215K, and it's worth ~150K in 2010 (which is VERY common in many areas), how much equity do you have in 2010? Now it's 2011 and it's worth $130K, do you have more equity?
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Aug 31, 2011 22:18
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Niwrad posted:Perhaps someone knows this, but is it true that credit bureaus are given an extra 15 days to verify a dispute if you pulled it off a free credit report as opposed to a paid one? What they have to do and when they do it should be spelled out in the FCRA...I don't remember anything about source of info though...it's always good to read through it if you haven't.
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Sep 7, 2011 16:47
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Many financial institutions use a paltform called "Titan" to underwrite cards. This uses FICO only as a small subset of it's decision engine. Things like deposit balance (if you bank with them), and other factors (over drafts, etc.) are weiged heavier because not only are they more predicitive, but it makes sense from a core deposit point of view as well.
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Sep 16, 2011 16:54
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Chin Strap posted:You get fraud protection from it, but while the fraudulent charges are disputed your money is still being put out. To add, I used to be a only debit card person myself, kept the reciepts, synced with MS Money...it was a good system....until it got cloned at a gas station skimmer. It took loving 2 months to get my money back. It took 6 months to eventually get all the charges reversed, and that was with a detective on my side practically yelling at the branch manager, and then finally someone in corporate. NEVER AGAIN. With a credit card, your limit is reduced for a couple of months while they work it out, with a debit card, it's your REAL loving MONEY.
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Sep 21, 2011 00:45
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NickArtcade posted:Thanks! To add to this, interest can never make you go over the limit as you are paying the upcoming interest in advance (sort of). It never really capitalizes unless you are 60 dpd.
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Oct 8, 2011 19:36
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kaishek posted:My wife got a new credit card at my behest to take advantage of some round trip flight offers (something that I do all the time, but have a spreadsheet to keep track of). This being her first new card in a while, she forgot to make the payment due until about a week late. Will this negatively impact her, and/or can I call up Chase and say "hi, this late payment was totally our fault, we've had other cards with you for X years, please take the late payment off her record?" They don't start reporting until 30dpd.
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Oct 13, 2011 17:12
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moana posted:I suppose I was thinking that all of the daily transaction commissions would more than overwhelm the interest. Maybe that was true when I got my first credit card, but I really don't know what it is now. You're probably right. It's all risk based pricing so the interest rate is offset by the risk (it's the margin where the real money is).
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Oct 17, 2011 03:39
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Mighty Amoeba posted:Can someone explain to me (or direct me to where it is explained) about this whole thing about not wanting to carry above whatever percentage on your card? I usually put between 25-40% on my card every month and I had no idea I was doing anything wrong. Why is this bad? People try to game utilization rates.
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Oct 20, 2011 04:19
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