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Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
I'd like to start putting $10 a paycheck toward something for each of my 3 nieces, to give to them when they turn 18. It'll be 8 years til the first one turns, what's the best thing to invest in a little at a time? Just create a savings account? Savings bonds?

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Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

baquerd posted:

There's nothing you're going to be able to invest in $10 at a time with nothing upfront except for a savings or high yield checking account.

Would I be better off just earmarking the cash then until I hit $50/$100? I figure I get paid twice a month, that ends up being $260 a year for each of them.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

kaishek posted:

It is unclear when they "grab" these numbers for your latest scores because it depends on when the card reports. I would recommend waiting one full billing cycle from close to close with low utilization to be sure. However I don't actually think that a temporary high utilization will be particularly problematic. You can tell them please be aware I had a high utilization last month, which is partly why I'm requesting this increase in limit.

I paid off all my credit cards in July, and went for a new car loan in August. They told me that it took 6 months from the time you pay off your cards for it to really show on your credit report.

Probably BS, but you never know...

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Zeta Taskforce posted:

I’d also be curious to know where they were going with that. It is true that your balance is updated monthly. But when you are establishing credit, it takes 6 months of continuous reporting of the same account before a credit score is calculated. I also tell people that I deny for delinquent credit that if they want to try again, it takes about 6 months of good behavior before there is a significant improvement in the score, but that is only a guideline.

I’m a nice guy so I will err on the side of some type of misunderstanding or something being lost in translation before I say that there is outright deception going on.

Yeah, he was going with the 6 months of good behavior. He definitely was trying to get me into a higher rate, which I understand. My goal is to wait 6 months to a year and refinance through a credit union once I've had a decent track record.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
I have a friend who has about $15k in credit card debt, and is looking at talking to a credit counselor about his options. Does anyone have any recommendations for a legit one? Googling "credit counselor" leads to disaster...

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
Hey thread. If there is a better thread to post this in, let me know.

I bought my house in 2004 during the peak of the housing boom, and just finally got myself in a good spot with a refinance a few years back. I'm a single guy and have over the last few years got myself a pretty reliable, well paying job, got my credit under control (750ish generally) with my only debts being the house ($112k) and car ($9k). I'm putting away about 20% of my check in a combination of 401k, Roth IRA and employee stock purchase.

I've been watching house prices rise and rise, and I'm kicking around the idea of selling off my house and going to rent for a bit.

I bought the best house I could for the mortgage I got in 2004, which wasn't much. It's only around 850 square feet, but is in a nice zip code (decent school district) and has a pretty big back yard for the area (on a 60x200' lot). I don't need the yard or the school district, and I'm in a position with my job that I could move anywhere and work remotely if I need to.

The good news is that I recently got siding put on the house and a new water heater, the bad news is that the bathroom is a wreck and needs to likely be fully redone. The house being a 1 bathroom house means redoing it is tricky.

Long story short - should I put some feelers out to see what kind of value the house is "really" worth (Zillow says $130, but isn't counting the siding or bathroom work) and potentially sell it as is with the bathroom work needing to be done still? With the house as small as it is and me not having much baggage, I could deal with an apartment or something else of similar size for a while, bump up my savings and hope for the market to turn back into a buyer's market in a couple years, getting a place that's more what I'm looking for (more city, less yard).

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
Best Buy apparently just converted my store only card into a Visa rewards card without any type of approval from me - is that going to do anything to my credit? I'm in the middle of getting a mortgage and they were abundantly clear that "opening a new card is a huge no no"

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:

My man, welcome. How did you get here?

Are you allergic to vampires and their austerity measures?

boop the snoot posted:

adopt draconian austerity measures until you're out of credit card debt and then keep that lifestyle since it sounds like you may be living outside your means unless your minimum payments are spread across 50 cards or something.

^^^^^ What's changed that will prevent you from going into debt again? If I remember correctly, those types of programs can actually hurt your credit if they take a settlement. You might pay less in the short run, but in the long run you're hurting.

Unless you recently got a big promotion/job change/something that means you'll be able to maintain your lifestyle while not incurring more debt, you'll go back under. Take it from someone who has done that - I cashed out my 401k when I left a job 10 years ago to pay off credit card debt that I had paid off multiple times with various loans and such.

Make a budget - even as simple as an Excel "Bills" vs "Income" that calculates against each other can be eye opening. And if your bills are greater than 80% of your income, you're gonna go back into debt even deeper.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Thanatosian posted:

Only put in an FSA what you're 100% sure you will spend and be able to be reimbursed for, and make absolutely loving sure you keep every loving scrap of paperwork.

They're pretty bad, otherwise.

Note that you can also use them to pay for child care (or, at least, you could a few years ago).

You can carry over $500 a year on your FSA card now, so you do have a small buffer. But yeah, FSA is great as long as you track it and use it.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Untagged posted:

This is employer dependent. They can elect the $500 carry over, or two extra months for prior year fund spend, or make no changes.

Fair enough, I just knew the IRS began allowing it the year after I lost $400. :D

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Solitair posted:

Just a job. I also don't have a car right now, so I'd have to find public transportation to get to a warehouse.

Where do you live? Are there any retail outlets near you, especially Costco?

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
People that have money saved and ask how they can save more are generally the ones who end up retiring and living happily ever after, so I applaud you for that! I can even imagine having 150k saved up by age 36.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Drone posted:

Ask me about being freaked out by what is probably just run-of-the-mill email spam that slipped through Gmail's spam filter.

Today I received two emails in a row from two "businesses" that look reasonably legit (i.e.: they have actual websites, the email addresses look relatively legitimate-ish if somewhat scummy, and they have actual physical addresses/phone numbers that I confirmed exist via Google Street View... additionally there are businesses registered for both with the BBB and on TrustedReviews with the same names/logos) for payday loan poo poo. Now, both of the emails said they were sent to an email address that is extremely similar to mine (my actual email is firstname.lastname, and these were sent to firstnamelastname apparently???), but I got them anyway. Both emails are basically signups to their websites. One of these businesses sent two mails -- one of them was automatically flagged by Google as spam and was redirected to the spam folder, the other one was not.

What should I do? I'm afraid of taking action on anything like this that may be spam because, welp, that's probably how you fall victim to a scam in the first place.

Assuming the emails are legit: my name is uncommon, but there are several others in the US that have it. So it's entirely possible that one of them owns firstnamelastname@gmail and this is just a case of mistaken delivery. Nevertheless I'm worried about it.

Assuming the emails are not legit: I will just ignore them.

And now for the potential overreaction:
I don't live in the United States anymore and haven't for six years. I don't really intend on returning in the near-term. Will calling all three credit agencies and having them just freeze my credit have any negative impacts on me, and is this an overreaction? I don't currently have an American credit card (I live in Germany, and I do have a Visa via my German bank) and my only open American credit right now are student loans that I'm still paying down. I would rather just make a clean cut and be done with it if at all possible, so I don't have to worry about poo poo like this happening while I'm not even in the country.

Gmail ignores periods, so Medullah.SomethingAwful@gmail.com is the same as MedullahSomethingAwful@gmail.com is the same as Med.ullah.Something.Awful@gmail.com. So I wouldn't worry about that part. I'd freeze your credit (fairly easy nowadays) and get a credit report pulled, or at least use Credit Karma.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

gvibes posted:

Yeah, looks like we are going to have a massive undifferentiated amazon/target bucket. Welp.

I had the same thing when I started using Mint and I found it actually helped me realize how much I was blowing on Amazon stuff I ended up not needing. I actually went through every order for the last 2 years and decided if it was a smart purchase. It didn't curb ALL of my impulse buying, but it did help.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
Go to a credit union. They're usually much better about consumer level loans.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Quabzor posted:

I don't have much experience about lovely loans, but I figure the best course of action is try to talk to a few credit unions/banks into refinancing. Worst case scenario dump as much extra money towards the loan and try again in a year or so with a lower balance.

Yeah, I mean even if he can't refinance through the CU for the car, a 10% interest personal loan will be better than that nightmare of a loan.

This is why you take care of your credit, and teach your kids to build it as soon as they can.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
FWIW Best Buy recently changed their card to a Visa, so you may have a 10 year old Visa card which is a bit more practical than the store only card. And a 10 year old account is going to help you more than it's hurting you being open

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Icey posted:

I have terrible credit but need a 5k loan. I have a cosigner with excellent credit. What is my best option? Amone wants me to borrow 5k and pay back 10k. I figure with a cosigner I should be able to do better than that.

Why do you need a loan?

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
I do a similar thing, but actually use different banks because I looked for account bonuses (free $150 with $1000 deposit, etc). I have one account that is for purely static bills and I use direct deposit to deposit the exact amount needed for those bills plus $50, another account from my Credit Union for when I bought my car, my main checking and savings account.

I wouldn't bother doing it if your direct deposit can't automatically do the sorting, because you WILL forget to manually do it if that's your intention, but it was a key step in me fixing my finances about 10 years ago since it let me not even see money that was already earmarked for bills.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
If you're not in a huge rush you can set up an Amazon store and ship all the books to them to ship out as they sell. I was considering doing that for DVDs but realized it wasn't worth it.

I probably wouldn't expect to get too much for the lot if you don't have a bunch. You might even want to just donate them to a library and take the tax credit.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

SpelledBackwards posted:

It would be a tax deduction, not a credit, and the new policies put in place last year definitely make it harder to break out of the standard deduction into itemized deductions through mortgage interest deduction and charitable giving deductions.

But that doesn't mean it's not still a great thing to do if the books are desirable to the charity or charities.

Er that's right, what I meant. But yeah, I forgot about the massive change to the standard deduction.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Careful Drums posted:

Hi money goons

I have 23k in credit card debt. I want to consolidate it because the interest rate is between 15 and 20% for all of that debt.

The best option i've found is on prosper.com offering a 23k loan at 11.54%/13.82% APR but I have no idea if this is good or if a consolidation loan is a good idea at all?

A consolidation loan can work to reduce your overall interest ratio, but realistically - have you made the appropriate lifestyle changes so that you'll be aggressively paying off that loan? Or will you rack up charges on the credit cards again because you're "back to zero"?

If you want some real advice on this, let us know how much you make, what your current budget is (Rent, food, gas, etc).

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Careful Drums posted:

Glad you asked that to underscore the actual issue. Short answer is no, no lifestyle changes have happened because my wife doesn't take this debt seriously. :smith:

Sorry to hear that. I would honestly not go for the consolidation loan then, because that's just going to open the cards back up for her to attack.

I would sit down and just use an Excel spreadsheet to list out all of your expenses and then your salary. If for no other reason, you'll have an idea of where you're realistically at.

Are you guys contributing to a retirement fund at least?

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Careful Drums posted:

I mean given how this conversation is going I think you know the answer to that. My wife grew up a lot more financially unstable than me so I think in her mind "bills are getting paid" = "buy whatever who cares". It causes a lot of tension because she thinks I'm stingy for wanting to save money.

How much do you guys make, after taxes? What do your other bills look like?

Edit - And if not too personal, how old are you.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Careful Drums posted:

idk after taxes but i make 104k now and it should be going up to 120 (see cobol thread if you want to dox me)

i'm 31, wife is 37. kids 7, 4, and 1. mortgage pymt 1990/mo. two car payments, and all the other usual stuff. only thing i've successfully gotten down is that we pay 60/mo for internet and no cable.

Oh man, yeah, don't do the consolidation loan. You can clean that up quick with a bit of focus, and consolidating doesn't learn her a lesson. Start saving for retirement ASAP - I have a guy that works in my office who was a programmer for 30 years and didn't have what he needed for retirement, his company folded and now he makes $40k a year taking level 1 customer calls at almost 60. :(

At the very least I really recommend the Excel spending exercise. Set up Mint too, easy way to see spending habits. You'd be surprised how just a little attention can change your habits huge.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

Careful Drums posted:

loving christ i came in here asking for financial advice and ended at "you should divorce" i will challenge my assumption about counseling and see about that before concluding this.

I'd start a financial thread as first recommended. That will help you get the understanding you need to see where you're really at.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

eddiewalker posted:

The day you get your new credit card in the mail, immediately log in and set your autopay to “statement balance in full” on or before “date due.” That’s the only trick to winning the credit card game.

The amazon card is a fine first card.

Yep I regularly use my Amazon, Chase Freedom and Citi double rewards cards for 2%-5% off. It's a good game but you have to pay it off. Miss one payment and the APR kills you.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

colachute posted:

$~9500 student loan debt @ 4-5% interest
$~9500 credit card debt on a 0% APR introductory rate for the next 14 months (balance transfer offer).

Even though it is 0% intro rate, is the obvious answer here to still pay off that CC as fast as possible before and pay the minimum on student loans? My preferred method of paying debt is to attack the highest interest first, and these are the only two things I have hanging over me. I can put about $1500/mo towards debt as of now, but I’m still building my emergency savings back up from a few months of unemployment in a high COL area.

Thanks!

E: for clarification I’m not comfortable simply splitting the CC into equal payments over the life of the intro offer.

Pay off the loan that has interest first and foremost unless you have spare cash laying around. Assuming you can pay off the 0% APR withing the 14 months, you're better off that way. If you CAN'T pay off the 0% loan in the time it's 0%, then you need to plan on paying it off.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

spwrozek posted:

Also don't look down on being HVAC tech. Trades are good business and pay really well.

Yep and HVAC is always in demand.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

spwrozek posted:

You don't think normal company bonuses are a thing?

I had a job with "guaranteed" bonuses when I signed on, and a year later they made those bonuses far less guaranteed. I never ever ever count bonuses in my budget anymore.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
That should be fine with the caveat that you should expect she won't pay you back, so you'll survive without the money. That's the golden rule for lending money no matter who it is or how positive you are they'll pay you back.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
Don't rely on the card for that, use Mint to see where your money is going.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

PoorUser posted:

I have an old student loan of 5.5k @ 3.5% and the ability to pay it all off now. But, I don't have much good credit to speak of.

Will it have a positive effect on my credit compared to paying it all off now to instead pay off all but $500 to $1k of the student loan and continue making minimum payments? I mean a positive effect in the sense that I am not closing an old credit line and can also use this to raise my percentage of on time payments (this part of my credit profile needs help).

Or would it better to just pay it all now and save myself some interest?

Thanks so much.

If you pay it off now, will you still be able to live comfortably with a decent chunk of savings?

If you don't pay it off, will you be able to get more than a 3.5% return on the money if you invest it elsewhere?

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
Yeah but it's still generally worth it.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
My friend just had a kid, and wants to start saving money for him for life milestones. Right now he's putting it in a basic savings account. He wants to maintain control of the money, so he can withdraw money for things like a car and college. I expect he won't be touching it for 10 years, but will be depositing twice a month when he gets paid. What's the best option for him? I thought at least an online bank with higher yield interest rates.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

The March Hare posted:

I didn't really like YNAB when I last looked at it (years ago). I'm sort of less interested in budgeting and more interested in Stats, mostly just want a dashboard that shows me where I'm at and where I'm going. I'm a reasonably disciplined spender, so I don't really like dealing with the effort of scrutinizing my purchases as long as I'm hitting my student loan/savings goals each month.

I mean, Mint is essentially the free version of Quicken. You could probably purchase that and get rid of the ads.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
Worrying about +2 points on your credit is not necessary. You'll get pre-approved for a mortgage that's double what you should use anyway. As long as you have your down payment you're fine

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

100 HOGS AGREE posted:

I was approved for a 350k mortgage when I made 45k a year, and was buying a house for 86k. The banking system is stupid.

Yup I bought a new house last year and was pre-approved for 700k, bought a 250k which was higher than I felt comfortable with but I loved the house

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
How crazy would it be to refinance my mortgage 10 months into buying the house? I was a bit tentative about being able to make the payments I'd need to in order to do a 20 year so I did a 30 year I'm easily able to make them (been making the 30 year payment plus extra principal to match what the 20 would have been), so I'm wondering if the long term gains of dropping down to a 20 would outweigh the short term cost of refinancing.

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Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
All good points. Thanks, I'll do some number crunching.

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