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drk
Jan 16, 2005
Maybe this is reflecting on experiences with people I know in my life, but I hope Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde isnt bipolar and "candles" isnt a poo poo load of weed. Thats what it sounds like to me and... those things really dont mix well.

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drk
Jan 16, 2005
Also keep in mind balance transfers almost always have a fee. Something like 3% isn't uncommon, and these fees apply even if they give you a 0% APR for some period of time.

I agree that those offers are basically tempting you to go deeper into debt. They want want you to think "OK, now this debt isnt a problem I have to think about for a while" when in reality you may find yourself even less able to pay it off when the deal expires and interest starts hitting. Executed perfectly, transferring balances around may help for a short period of time, but the bank wouldn't be making these offers if the numbers weren't to their advantage on net.

drk
Jan 16, 2005
When this came up in the Long Term investing thread, a couple people mentioned Fidelity Full View. Its free if you have a Fidelity account, and should work on desktop and mobile. As far as having most of the Mint features you want, I cant comment on that since I haven't used either service.

Also, regarding Credit Karma, are you sure it doesnt support the features you need? This page makes it sound like it might: https://www.creditkarma.com/lp/mint-to-credit-karma-net-worth It doesnt have an explicit budgeting feature, but you can see your current months spending broken down by category.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

vortmax posted:

Okay y'all, so back in the summer of 2001 I worked for Walmart in Norman Oklahoma in the deli. I'm pretty sure I put money from each paycheck into the employee associate stock-buying program and maybe a matched retirement account. After I left I never followed up on that. (My mom was sick and I was having a mental breakdown for the next few years.)

How can I find out what happened with that?

The stock plan is (currently) administered by computershare: https://www-us.computershare.com/employee/login/selectholdergroup.aspx

You might try going through the process there to set up or recover your account.

drk
Jan 16, 2005
the pay yourself first budget works well for me: I put about 20-25% of my gross income into tax advantaged retirement accounts via automatic contributions, then dont stress about the rest

obviously, that wont work for everyone, but its nice to get there

drk
Jan 16, 2005
Are you sure you aren't eligible for unemployment? What state doesn't provide unemployment assistance to people who were laid off? Or did you already get it and are no longer eligible?

You may want to contact your county social services office to find out what is available to you. These programs are going to vary a lot depending where you are, but its very likely you qualify for some sort of assistance.

See also https://www.benefits.gov/

And you may qualify for EITC: https://www.irs.gov/credits-deductions/individuals/earned-income-tax-credit-eitc Some states also have programs similar to EITC.

Also, I agree that it sounds like you should take any job right now. No one really wants to step down in income from what they previously earned, but it sounds like even a few hundred dollars a week of income would help.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Busy Bee posted:

[*]Announcement Date is when it's available on Fidelity / Vanguard to purchase and settlement date is when it hits your account after you buy it, right?
[*]Anything equal and below 52 weeks is called a bill and you purchase it as a discount and get the full amount back when it matures?
[*]Anything between 2-to-10-year NOTEs pay out semiannually?
[*]From your experience, how liquid are treasuries? Is it a pretty straight forward process?
[/list]

Yes, kinda. Settlement date is when the money is taken out of your account and the treasury is put into it. Fidelity actually shows it in your account after the auction takes place and the bond is priced, but I suspect that is mostly just UI - you wouldn't be able to do anything with it until the settlement date.

Yes ("zero-coupon" bond)

Yes

Very liquid. You will lose a little due to bid-ask, and small lots usually get worse prices than large ones. Neither is a big concern in my experience, and if you hold to maturity the secondary market is irrelevant.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Busy Bee posted:

Also, based on the following Announcement Date, Auction Date, and Settlement Date
Thursday, February 22, 2024 - Monday, February 26, 2024 - Thursday, February 29, 2024

Can I purchase a treasury until EOD on Monday, February 26th?

Auction is in the AM, Eastern Time. Some brokerages may accept orders early morning on auction day, but you should generally be placing orders at least 1 day before the auction. Brokerages will accept orders for treasury auctions even when the market is closed, so in this case you could put in your order on the weekend.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

It looks to me like you are doing reasonably well. What would you say your current expenses are? You mention $29k as your annual disposable income, but then mention that $24k is 6 months of expenses + some extra.

I think the biggest unknown is potentially buying a condo. It wouldn't be possible in a HCOL with your current income/savings rate, but it sounds like you like somewhere less expensive.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Busy Bee posted:

Thank you everyone. I have a few more questions:

How do you guys approach the potential decrease in yield rate for your bonds & CDs? For example, I have a few more CD's maturing in the next 1 to 2 years and I expect the rate in the near future will be lower than what it is today. Stay the course, don't time the market etc. I get that but how should I approach a situation if in 2 years the new rates for bonds & CDs are much lower than the 5% rate I locked in prior?

Should I exceed my 30% bond/CD portfolio allocation I have now and when my future CD's mature in the next 1 to 2 years, I move that towards stock so I'm able to lock in the current rates?

Fixed income investments (bonds, CDs, etc) can serve a number of purposes:
  • Preservation of capital: some fixed income investments can not lose principal value, such as FDIC insured savings accounts. Others have very limited risk to principal, such has short term bond funds.

  • Reduction of portfolio volatility: almost all fixed income investments are less volatile than equities. Having a portion of a portfolio invested into relatively low volatility fixed income investments is useful from a psychological standpoint, since you will be less likely to make poorly timed decisions in response to large moves in the stock market. The exception here is long term bonds, which can be as volatile as stocks.

  • Inflation protection: some fixed income assets are explicitly inflation protected (TIPS, I bonds). While others are not inflation protected, such as nominal bonds or savings accounts, they tend to provide a >0% return, which will reduce or even eliminate the effect of inflation.
So, for the first two categories, you should be indifferent to current market rates. If you plan to have 30% in fixed income to preserve capital and/or reduce volatility, you should have 30% in fixed income regardless of rates.

For inflation protection, I bonds are a really nice choice as they are both inflation *and* deflation protected (they can never decrease in real or nominal value). TIPS are good too, but more complicated and not deflation protected. As mentioned above, fixed income investments that aren't explicitly inflation protected will mitigate the effects of inflation, but may fail to keep up with inflation, especially unexpected inflation.

Whats not on the list? Maximizing portfolio returns. While it is nice to earn 4 or 5% on treasuries right now, the yield alone should not be why you are investing in it.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

pmchem posted:

given that info, I'd probably not worry about bond ladders at all tbh. you probably don't even need a bond allocation. but if you want a bond allocation, since you have time, you could just park that % in $bnd or some other intermediate to short term fund. makes life easier and never know, might benefit from interest rate drops. people in the long term thread may have additional suggestions.

Bond ladders are fun if you like to tinker, but they do add complexity. I'm personally building an unnecessarily complicated one with Fidelity's auto-roll tool.

I agree about the ETFs as being an easier path to holding bonds - its a single asset, usually with monthly cash flows, and you can buy them in small increments.

Here's a few bond funds worth looking at off the top of my head. Over long periods of time, you should expect the longer duration funds to return more at the cost of increased volatility.

Ultra-short duration treasury: SGOV, XHLF

Short duration treasury: XONE, XTWO, VGSH

Intermediate duration treasury: VGIT

Intermediate duration total bond (government and corporate): BND

drk
Jan 16, 2005

meatpimp posted:

Edit -- our "worst case scenario that we came up with is that we do it, in 6 months fine it's not viable, then flip it for a profit, recognizing Uncle Sam takes a big bite for capital gains. Reasonable worst case?

Why do you think you'll be able to flip it for a profit in 6 months (after fees and other expenses) when there were multiple offers on the house and yours was presumably the highest? Is this all based on your realtor telling you you were getting a good deal?

drk
Jan 16, 2005

meatpimp posted:

Since I'm paying attention to this thread, one more question -- how does one transfer the assets managed (stocks/bonds/annuities) by Morgan Stanley to either self-managed or to another management company?

You're probably looking for an ACATS transfer

drk
Jan 16, 2005
A money market fund is a cashlike fixed income investment, similar to a savings account (not exactly the same, and the tax treatment is usually different). There shouldn't be any capital gains, but it will pay out interest every month.

Have you been paying taxes on the interest every year? If yes, this is a taxable account. If no, or you aren't sure, you should probably check and see if they have any tax statements for you.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Umbreon posted:

Got a question about car loans. If I can reliably afford big payments each month, which option is better for paying the least amount of money over the loan?

1. Get the lowest interest rate possible on a 2-3 year loan and have a large minimum monthly payment

2. Get the highest interest rate possible on a 7-8 year loan for the smallest possible minimum monthly payment, and then make aggressively high payments each month

Assuming they somehow work out to pay the same money over the life of the loan, I figure option 2 might be optimal because if life goes sideways, I don't have a giant minimum payment weighing me down, but if things are fine, I can keep slashing down the principal.

My memory is a little hazy, but the last time I had a car loan, I believe I was limited on the amount I could pay extra on the loan. I think it was up to one additional payment (so, my monthly payment was something like $300/month and I couldnt pay more than $600/month).

I could be wrong on this and certainly different lenders will have different rules, but I wouldn't necessarily assume you can just pay as much as you want each month like you could with a home mortgage. A quick google suggests pre-payment restrictions are definitely a thing with car loans.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Ham Equity posted:

Not a car person, but isn't driving a car that comes with power steering without power steering also loving dangerous?

Its not actually hard to steer a car in motion without power steering. When stationary its a pain in the rear end, but thats not a high risk situation.

Disclaimer: last time I drove a car without power steering was like 1998

drk
Jan 16, 2005
Not a car guy, but I dont think so. Power steering is a hydraulic system that assists in steering, not some sort of steer by wire system. The steering wheel is still mechanically linked to the wheels.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

pmchem posted:

it's there somewhere.
https://investor.vanguard.com/search#q=cost%20basis

when VG redid their web design a few years back, cost basis became a pain in the rear end to find hidden between layers of unintuitive clicks and eventually leading back to the old design site. I remember dealing with it before I left them. don't know where it is today. you can call support but they're not open on weekends and probably not open tomorrow due to the holiday (?).

my current broker has all that stuff in an up-front, obvious place and 24/7/365 support.

Its... 3 clicks after logging in?

Click holdings, click the individual holding, click "cost basis summary". Seems intuitive to me, and none of it requires the old site.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Hughmoris posted:

Rookie question about savings and taxes:

Let's say I put $100k into a American Express HYSA that has a 4.35% return. I live in Georgia. At the end of the year, I should have close to $104,350 in the account, right? How much would I lose when I file my taxes?

If you already have a brokerage account, you can do better than that with a money market fund or ultra-short treasury ETF and potentially be state tax exempt as well.

If you dont have a brokerage account, maybe now is the time.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

pmchem posted:

i just use a spreadsheet?

yeah it's this

but also, i put literally everything of long term / unknown amount into the same bucket. what I use it for or the amount doesn't change how I invest it if the time frame is all 2030+

drk
Jan 16, 2005

DildenAnders posted:

I just got an offer in the mail that I am pre-approved for Amex Gold. The terms (4% on restaraunts/4% on groceries, $750 in points if I spend at least $6k on it in 6 months, $10 monthly shake shack credits for some odd reason) seem like they (at least short term) make up for the annual fee. Do they ever waive the annual fee, and if not, is there any downside to potentially canceling the card after a year/2 years? I am going to be starting an intensive school program and I anticipate my spending will drop precipitously after that, to the point where $250 for a year will be more than the card benefits me. I only have 1 other credit card (a little more than a year old) and student loans, otherwise no credit history (Score is ~740 according to Experian).

Also, I am a credit dumby. What is a charge card? If I pay my balance in full at the end of the month (which I do with my current credit card) will I be paying any interest?

No, they arent going to randomly waive the annual fee. With the Amex Gold, a lot of its benefits come in the form of monthly use it or lose it credits that dont stack up. So unless you are using Uber every month, and one of their dining partners every month, you arent going to get those $240 worth of credits. 4% cash back on dining and groceries is nice, but you'd be able to get that much or better out of cards that dont have $250 annual fees.

Based on your expected drop in spending, it might make sense to get a 2% on everything no annual fee card instead.

Charge cards, unlike credit cards, dont let you carry a revolving balance month to month (I seem to recall this is no longer true for Amex charge cards, though).

There is a credit cards thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3679537

drk
Jan 16, 2005

I Like Jell-O posted:

Because you are maxing out your limit, as a general rule Roth 401k will be better. The contribution limit is the the same for pretax and Roth, but every dollar of Roth is worth more than a pretax dollar because you've already paid taxes on it. This means that you can effectively stuff more money into your 401k with Roth contributions. The benefit of a greater amount of money getting into a tax advantaged account will tend to drown out any other tax rate considerations.

You're partly right here, but you are missing the fact that any money paid in taxes in this scenario could instead be put into a taxable account and grow there.

So, yes, Roth dollars are worth more than Trad dollars, but there are *more* of the Trad dollars available because you pay less in taxes up front.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

I feel like there is something missing here. Your gross household income is $160k/year and you still need to lean on credit cards and TSP loans for relatively small purchases? Where is the money going?

Is this going to be one of these?

$2000: Mortgage/utilities
$1300: Food
$250: Gas
$500: Misc expenses
$4700: Flügelhorns

edit: to be a bit more constructive, personally I would not put a single dollar into retirement until you pay off those 18% credit cards. Yes, saving for retirement is important, and the tax advantages are nice, but you aren't going to earn 18% on your retirement savings.

drk fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Mar 4, 2024

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Medullah posted:

What is everyone's recommendation for HYSA right now? I got an email from Empower, my retirement program, and they're offering 4.70% but not sure how recommended they are.

Check out https://www.raisin.com/en-us/

drk
Jan 16, 2005

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

EV plug is a 50A/220V outlet on the side of the house, with a cover, so you can plug your EV in to charge it. It definitely counts as an improvement, and cost me a bit under $1k.

Anyway, thanks for the advice!

Out of curiosity, what did you go with for the charger? I'm thinking of buying an EV in the next few weeks.

$1k is much less than I was expecting for a 10kw charger

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Ham Equity posted:

Not true, Nancy Pelosi and her husband regularly get returns this high (or even higher).

So the answer, OP, is insider trading, just make sure you win a seat in Congress so it's legal.

Nah, they're just buying tech stocks with leverage. Its not a particularly unusual hobby for wealthy people who live in the Bay Area.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Motronic posted:

While the second statement is in fact true, what rock have you been living under to even type out the first?

Here's a list of all the Pelosi's trades for the past year and a half. Its not *only* tech, but its almost all tech. As far as the leverage bit - I thought it was well known that one of their primary strategies was buying long dated ITM options.



As far as the insider trading bit, I admittedly only briefly looked into it and could find no evidence of it being true (politifact calls it false). Just a lot of people claiming that she must be insider trading because they have made a lot of money.... buying tech stock options? A *lot* of people do that in the Bay Area. A lot of people do that on these forums.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

DildenAnders posted:

I got a second credit card about a month back. My credit score dropped 8 points, and it seems like the account is showing up as opened, closed and then opened again on my credit report. Is that typical or could it be an error I have to fix?

8 points on a credit score is basically just noise, dont worry about it. Unless you are applying for a large loan (car, house, comedy option boat), two scores 8 points apart are going to have the same outcome in pretty much any credit scenario.

Your score probably dropped because your average account age went down with the new account.

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drk
Jan 16, 2005

Lester Shy posted:

If my credit card statement is posted on 2nd of the month and payment is due on the 27th, when is the ideal date to pay it off? Does it matter?

I autopay mine on the due date because why pay any earlier when i am earning interest on my cash

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