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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Hello fellow macro nuts


Pollen 2 by Aves Lux, on Flickr

Hope you like bees!

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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Raikyn posted:

Newly hatched baby spider


Ants and Spiders by Marc, on Flickr

I like how you got the ant eye detail it's a bloody hard lens to use that 1x-5x 65mm

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Common Darter by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Raikyn posted:

Usually I find the hardest part is actually finding the subject, at 4x-5x anyway


I mean you look at the subject normally, then try to view at your chosen mag through the camera, try to get something in focus, then move around trying to find the subject.
Once you've failed that you take your eyes away from the camera, look at the subject and it hasn't f**kin moved.

Or you find the subject, get closer to get it in focus, then the lens(or more usually flash) hits whatever it was on, and you can't get close enough to focus

It can get really annoying



Yeah I've not really taken a photo i'm happy with with it yet, i got this tiny fly but the focus is off but it's hard to tell "how small" it is in the photo flies just look the same at all scales.

Tiny Fly by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Jumping spiders are so charismatic, never managed to get one to photograph though.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
That mosquito is glorious, what's you lighting/flash setup for that?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

pseudorandom posted:

You're pretty much correct. I think it's a treehopper in the Smiliinae subfamily.


This is really pretty! I'm not certain, but I think this is a Tiphiid wasp :buddy:


I like bugs, I'm sorry.

I think you're right thanks for the id.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Really nice I can appreciate how hard this is to shoot, it's pretty amazing how narrow DoF can be.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
lovely colours


Field Grasshopper by Aves Lux, on Flickr

Did not have my flash so had to use a big aperture.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Jumping spiders are so cute, I love that middle shot I tried to get a shot of one on holiday the other week but I only had my travel flash and couldn't get a good shot.

I can tell your flash pattern though ;)

I'm thinking about a single big Yongnou 600 lens mounted with a lampshade type diffuser for my 100mm macro as the MT-24ex is not quite powerful enough for the 100mm lens focal distance.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Oh that poor bee, those mites are horrible.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Yeah wide angle macro is stunning.

Yet another lens....

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Fingers McLongDong posted:

What kind of setups are you guys using to get some of these shots? In addition to a kit lens and a cheaper telephoto, I have one of the older Canon 100mm 2.8 lenses, which is great, but I can't get nearly that close. I thought about getting some extension tubes for it. I'm also going to buy a 50mm lens pretty soon, I saw some people recommending reversal rings for a lens that size as well?

Some really great photos in this thread.

I would say most of us are using a dedicated macro lens (close focussing) and a diffused flash setup where needed.

I use mainly the Canon 100mm L f/2.8 macro and a variety of diffused flash setups.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Fingers McLongDong posted:

Light setups is something I don't know hardly anything at all about yet, beyond some reading I've done. I got the canon 100mm f/2.8 (the old one, not the L model) because I wanted to work on macro stuff and it was a good price and I'm having a good time with it. Just need to work on technique and get some practice, and then start working with lighting more. Lot of intimidating information out there.

I found this guide started me off well, it's a bit old but the principles are sound.

http://edocfile.info/macroshooting/index.html

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
It goes like this, the closer you get the narrower the depth of field gets, at wide open apertures your depth of field is so narrow that the part of the subject in focus is minimal so you not only have problems getting the main parts in focus, any small movement will totally lose your focus.

So you need to close down the aperture to get a usable depth of field, this gets the point where there is not enough light even on a sunny day to expose at a reasonable ISO, you can't use a long shutter speed because everything is so magnified that you get bad shake and a tripod isn't any good when your subject is moving or prone to being disturbed.

The only way to achieve f/10 etc is to use a flash, but even there you have problems, with flashes the more light you need the longer the flash is on and it might seem wrong but even this is too much exposure time for rock solid details in order to reduce the flashes on time you need to lower the power and move the flash closer to the subject (snoots and off camera flash rigs) you also have the issue that flash generates hot spots and reflections so you need to diffuse it in some way and cap diff users just don't provide an even enough light.

Eventually your camera looks like an engineering prototype with a lampshade tacked on to it.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Everyone seems to end up with a large flash or 2 snooted towards a semi circle ring of diffuser material mounted on the lens shade (like a dog cone)

This kind of thing.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/59583171@N07/14672583951

Although this setup looks like there might be a little too much distance between flash and subject.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Not really, the flash is as integral to macro as the lens, you can try out your onboard flash with a snoot.

A Yongnuo flash is not expensive compared to other equipment.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Let's have a photo


Mushrooms by Aves Lux, on Flickr

These tiny mushrooms in my garden have all sorts of features that you can't really see with the naked eye.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
The under growth is sphagnum moss or similar, it's really tiny and fine, the lighting is a combo of off camera flash and a bit of natural light. I found it pretty challenging, my camera was basically nestled in the moss and the lighting took many attempts to get right, definitely a learning curve.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Raikyn posted:

Well done :) Love the lighting


I've just got a butterfly


Monarch Butterfly by Marc, on Flickr

Sexy eye detail there, butterflies just get weirder the closer you get.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
So I'd rotate it right so the flower is upright, crop so it's most of the picture and increase the contrast.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
It's nice but the angle just makes my head want to tilt. I get you can't crop/tilt as it's corner to corner.

Anyone got any strong opinions on focus stacking software, Zerene or Helicon? Zerene seems cool but Helicon can input raw, both are expensive.

jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Mar 20, 2019

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
First stacking proper try.

Man it's time consuming, RAWs to Helicon to LR for editing and then some very odd colour fringes that Lightroom was only showing in export and in library mode, ended up having to go to PS then export to JPG


Toadstool by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
I've just noticed something odd about that last photo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZolPxUQUcro

I did a retouch on the background buit Lightroom is acting odd in develop at fit it looks fine, go to 1:1 and it looks like it did before the retouch, the same is apparent at fit and 1:1 in Library view and when exported (as on my flickrr account)

I just exported as TIF and replaced it and this seems to have fixed that oddness.

Anyone have any ideas?

jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Mar 24, 2019

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Orions Lord posted:

Kalmthoutse Heide by roland luijken, on Flickr

Carl Zeiss 2.4 35mm Flektogon.

Love the use of DoF really nice.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

7-spot Ladybird by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Beautiful shots people, love that wing close up and atlatl's are very alien which I like about macro.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
It depends on what macro you want to do

Common macro includes

Plants/Insects etc in the field (a lot of what you see here)
Studio macro with or without stacking.
Extreme (higher than 1:1) macro.

Macro is also often (more so than normal photography) a symbiotic relationship between lens and lighting equipment you need both to do good macro, I have more flashes than macro lenses..

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
I came here to post a butterfly but how am I going to compete with a sea cucumber's rear end in a top hat with a crab living inside it..


Speckled Wood by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
That is some vaporwave right there.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Been getting into my mushrooms.


Auriscalpium by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Red Tailed Bumblebee by Aves Lux, on Flickr

Carder Bee by Aves Lux, on Flickr

It's World Bee Day!

Man bumblebees are hard to photograph.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Atlatl posted:

rip underwater animal macro, long live industrial macro for school









We will always have that night in Rome crab that lived in a sea cucumbers rear end in a top hat.

jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jun 8, 2019

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Love the bubbles, it's so clean.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
hot 2x action


Zebra Jumping Spider 2x by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Jun 20, 2019

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
What lens you carrying?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
I cannot find the Rosco materials in the UK are there any equivalents?

re the Canon MP-E 65mm

The jumping spider was taken at around 2x af f/11 I find that's around the limit at 2x

I mean it's crazy really over 2x you need to in a studio on a rail with stacking with an opened up aperture and good light

In the field 2x is for the really small stuff, Zebra spider is 5/6 mm If you use it on a Bee at 2x you get this


Bumblebee Closeup by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jun 20, 2019

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Helen Highwater posted:

I'm thinking of the Canon 100mm f/2.8 (the non-L version). Is it ok? I want to try shooting bugs handheld to start with and maybe some still-life macro stuff on a tripod. Is there a better option for long-ish macro on a Canon without dropping a grand on glass I won't use that often?

You can look at the Sigma 105 and the Tamron 90mm macros as well.

https://www.wexphotovideo.com/sigma-105mm-f28-macro-ex-dg-os-hsm-canon-fit-1524157/
https://www.wexphotovideo.com/tamron-90mm-f28-sp-di-usd-vc-macro-lens-canon-fit-1593169/

Non L Canon 100mm has no IS.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Graniteman posted:

That sounds about right.

For anyone who doesn’t know, the diffraction limiting aperture depends on the pixel pitch of your specific camera. Consider that a point light source going through a mathematically perfect lens gets diffracted into a blurred circle (google “circle of confusion”). The smaller the lens aperture the bigger the CoC. At some point the CoC is big enough to overlap with adjacent sensor elements (pixels) and so you can now see that it is blurred if you are pixel peeping at 100%. So, the smaller the pixels on your image sensor the sooner you will start to see diffraction blurring as you stop down the lens.

There are a couple of different ways to calculate it, but one can do it, and it turns out that for my Canon 5D III with a full frame 24MP sensor, a 100% zoomed image becomes diffraction limited at f/14.3. So I shoot 1:1 at f/14. If I’m shooting at 2:1 in the field I tend to shoot f/11 or f/8. If I’m focus stacking on a rail I have a table I calculated where I get my step sizes and apertures. But at 5:1 I’m already diffraction limited at f/2.8 so I shoot wide open. If I don’t want to shoot wide open and make a lot of steps in the focus stack I just shoot at less magnification and then crop and it ends up with the same image quality.

Of course, if you are not pixel peeping or printing at huge sizes, pixel perfection doesn’t matter so just shoot at diffraction limited apertures that give you a workable DOF and get on with your day :) I know of an excellent photographer who teach classes on macro, and they shoot at f/22. You’d never know it from looking at their work on the internet. Of course, they burn up their flash batteries, have slower flash recycles, and can’t crop aggressively without loss of quality. But if your output medium is social media, gently caress it, f/22 is a perfectly fine way to shoot. You can calculate the diffraction limiting aperture based on the output size instead of the image sensor dot pitch and come up with a totally different number than what I put above.

And about rosco alternative, I have no idea. Looks like there are similar diffusion gels so try that out. I’ve spent many hundreds of dollars on diffuser setups and I don’t think there’s anything better than that polymer sheet stuff. One can do good work with anything, but the gels are just the most durable, flexible, neutral toned, most light transmissive yet diffusing, and just most appropriate for my kind of field shooting. I’ve used milk jugs and yogurt jars, cut up plastic light diffuser from ceiling lights, custom cut plastics from a TAP plastics store, tracing paper inside of a clear plastic binder sheet, laminated tracing paper, commercial cup diffusers that clip onto MT-24EX flash heads, cardboard/foil/paper/tape constructs of all kinds. Just on and on really. I recommend anyone build the diffuser that works for their specific wants, but using this kind of polymer based diffuser gel is just such a great material to include in your build.

i think I found it

https://www.10outof10.co.uk/acatalog/Rosco_Cinegel___Roscolux.html

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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Figured the thread needed some body horror to balance out the the lovely macros we normally get

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