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Welcome to the Volvo Megathread, your discussion station for all things boxy and Swedish. The original Volvo megathread is available here. GENERAL FAQ What do all the model numbers mean?  Most Volvos up until the S40/S70 used a three-numeral naming scheme. This typically follows the convention: model series/number of cylinders/number of doors where a 245 would be a 200-series car with a four-cylinder engine and five doors. This isn't a hard-and-fast rule, but it works most of the time. A SHORT HISTORY OF VOLVO MODELS Most Volvos produced until 1997 are RWD and are powered by some variant of the Volvo "redblock" cast-iron 4-cylinder engine (except for the 960, which used a 6-cylinder "whiteblock" engine - more on that later.) These cars, especially the 240, are renowned among Volvo fans for their durability. Some came turbocharged from the factory. Models in this category include: Volvo 200 series (240, 260) Volvo 700 series (740, 760, 780) Volvo 900 series (940, 960, S/V90) In 1993, Volvo began selling their first FWD car, the 850, and gradually transitioned to producing FWD/AWD cars. These cars use a five- or six-cylinder version of Volvo's aluminum-block "modular" engine, also known as the "whiteblock." Volvo also moved to a new naming scheme late in the model run of the 850. Generally, anything with an S prefix is a sedan, anything with a V is a wagon, and anything with a C is a coupe/convertible. Cars with a T-5 suffix have a high-pressure turbocharger added to the engine for additional performance. Volvo introduced an XC ("cross country") line around this time as well, beginning with the V70 XC/XC70, which are generally soft-roaders in the vein of the Subaru Outback (minus the off-road prowess) or a full-on SUV, as with the XC60/90. Models in this category include: Volvo 850/S70/V70 (1995-2001: midsize sedan/wagon) Volvo C30 (two-door hatchback) Volvo C70 (two-door coupe/retractable-hardtop convertible) Volvo S40/V40 (compact sedan/wagon) Volvo S60/V70/XC70/V60 (2001-present: midsize sedan/wagon) Volvo S80 (large luxury sedan) Volvo XC60 (SUV/crossover) Volvo XC90 (SUV) VOLVO R CARS You may have seen a Volvo or two with an "R" badge on it at some point. "R" cars are Volvo's stab at the performance market, starting with the 850 T-5R in 1995. They feature a turbocharged five-cylinder engine and different interior trim to differentiate them from non-R cars. The S60/V70R also had a fancy/gimmicky adjustable-stiffness suspension setup. Don't confuse this with the "R-Design" trimline on more recent cars, which is mostly an appearance package. Cars that have received the R treatment include: 850R V70R (first and second generations) S60R (previous generation) GENERAL ONLINE RESOURCES FOR YOUR VOLVO Swedespeed: Focuses on the more modern FWD cars, but has some extremely knowledgeable RWD people as well. Turbobricks: Focuses heavily on RWD cars and RWD performance modifications, especially 200s/700s. Brickboard: Focuses heavily on RWD, but has an FWD section. The FAQ section on this site is an extremely useful resource for the 700/900 series. Volvospeed: Focuses mostly on FWD cars but has an RWD section as well. OWNER'S MANUALS Volvo provides an archive of owner's manuals and information for cars from 1965 on at their website. It's available here. MODEL-SPECIFIC SITES kjet.org: A wealth of information on 240s. Brickboard, specifically the 700/900-series FAQ. PARTS SOURCES FCP Groton sells general maintenance parts for almost every Volvo ever made. IPD sells a number of harder-to-find and performance-oriented parts for your Volvo. Please post in the thread with any suggestions/additions. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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GENERAL MAINTENANCE ADVICE/NOTES FOR YOUR VOLVO TIMING BELTS  Many Volvo engines are interference-type, which means that your engine's pistons will be violently introduced to its valvetrain if the timing belt breaks. Check your owner's manual for details on when to change the belt.ELECTRONIC THROTTLE MODULE FAILURE Volvo began using Magnetti-Marelli electronic throttle modules in 1999 S70s. These parts were used in all S70s, V70s, S60s, and possibly S80s from 1999-2002. They inevitably fail due to a design flaw. These are warranted by Volvo to 10 years/200k miles, and when replaced they have a yellow sticker on the front. If yours still has a white sticker it has not been replaced and will very likely fail, so watch for signs and get in on the warranty if you can. If you can't, there's a place rebuilding them with optical position sensors instead of wiping mechanical contacts which appears to be a permanent fix. It's spendy (~500) but you only have to do it once, and it's cheaper than the Volvo replacements which are out of pocket now for all '99 and '00 cars, and '01s soon enough. (thanks LloydDobler) MODEL-SPECIFIC ISSUES/NOTES 240s HEATER CORE FAILURE This job is hell and requires removal of the entire dash. A detailed walkthrough of how to fix this is located here. 740s/760s (to be added) 940s (to be added) 960s 1992 960 TIMING BELT INTERVALS Early 960 engines have a different timing belt drive setup than later cars, which means frequent timing belt changes (every 20k-30k miles.) Keep this in mind if you're looking at an early 960. POROUS BLOCKS Some 960 engine blocks have been known to have casting issues, which can result in rapid coolant loss through the walls of the block. If you're looking at one of these cars, make sure you thoroughly check it for coolant leaks or attempted fixes. There is no fix for this issue short of replacing the entire block/engine. 850s/S70s (1993-2000) REAR MAIN SEAL FAILURE If the rear main seal on your 850/S70 fails, congratulations - this is another job from hell. The entire front subframe of the car will need to be dropped to allow removal of the transmission/access to the failed seal. Chances that this issue will occur can be reduced by replacing or cleaning the flame trap in the PCV system with every oil change, but some owners have indicated that a dirty flame trap is not the only cause. ABS PUMP FAILURE If the ABS/TRACS lights come on in your car, this is usually a result of the ABS pump failing. Googling this issue will bring up several sites that offer rebuilding services for the pump/module, which should solve the issue. S70s/V70s (1998-2000) (to be added) S60/V70 (2001-present) (to be added) XC90 meatpimp posted:Be careful when shopping for XC90s. The early (2003-2005, I think) top-of-the-line motor, the T6 twin-turbocharged 6 cylinder, was mated to a GM transmission undersized for the torque the motor put out. This means that the transmission is a 60k-80k replacement item, at a cost of several thousand dollars. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 19:11 on May 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 09:10
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Just so I can keep what everybody is driving straight, let's see your car(s). My current DD is LloydDobler's old 960, the amazing restoration of which can be seen here if you have archives.  Click here for the full 1280x851 image. We've also got a 1995 850 sedan in the family. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 09:17
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll go ahead and edit them into the OP shortly.  Sviatoslav, I actually made a mistake with the PCV info-people apparently recommend taking out the flame trap and cleaning it at each oil change, not totally replacing it. I'll fix that.  Splizwarf, I saw your post in the other thread-I'll see if there's not a way I can go through and screen-scrape it so that there's an archival copy. If there's something specific in there that you want preserved in this thread, let me know and I'll try and get it. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 17:42
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Just as a heads-up, I'm going to be incorporating some more information into the OP sometime this week. If someone wants to write up a short "models to buy/models to buy, with reservations/models to avoid" guide or make suggestions as to its contents, I'll throw that in there with the other updates. My 960 is probably going to get a stablemate here in the next week or so as well. 
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Apr 19, 2010 06:05
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Splizwarf, if there's a 940 sedan there with a black interior, I need the kick panel that rests under the passenger side dash in front of the door.
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Apr 19, 2010 09:44
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Picked up a set of dirty but serviceable 960 seats today for a project I'm brewing up: They're probably going to go into this, which will also be getting 960 taillights and an eggcrate grille once I've got it:   It's a 1992 940 Turbo with a Mitsubishi 15G turbo and a couple of chipped ECUs. Should be making pretty decent power. If all goes well, I'll be picking it up tomorrow. as halfway crooks, that's a pretty sweet 850R. 
TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Apr 23, 2010 |
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Apr 22, 2010 23:30
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Picked up the 940 today and commenced swapping in the later interior. Physically, it all goes together fine, but there's no power seat harness on the passenger side of the car, which has made installing the seat really difficult. I've got the female plug from the 960 the seats came from, which will probably allow me to wire up a makeshift harness for it eventually. With regards to performance, it's really nice. It's running 10 PSI now and pulls smoothly all the way through the rev range. The previous owner also did a lot of suspension mods that make it handle really well. I'll have some pictures tomorrow once I wash it.
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Apr 24, 2010 05:13
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Has anyone done an AC evaporator replacement on a 940 before? Mine's sitting here in pieces (it came that way with the car) and I'm trying to piece it back together before the weather gets really hot here.
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Apr 26, 2010 23:35
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Wow, it's freaky how close our cars are, apart from the interior. I already posted these in the rides thread, but why not here as well:    I'm currently trying to strip my eggcrate grille back to the plastic, since I botched the paint job the first time I tried to redo it. It'll make its way onto the car eventually. I've already got the 960 tails on the car, but they don't trigger the bulb out indicator for me, for whatever reason. Is yours a 1991 or 1992?
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Apr 30, 2010 00:43
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LloydDobler posted:Fucker. Done.
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May 4, 2010 11:17
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OK, this 940 is just a bundle of headaches. Here's how the coolant tank ended up looking when I topped up the coolant a couple days back: Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I think I've either got a bad head gasket or radiator (due to the integrated transmission cooler.) Here's the list of symptoms: -Thin coat of blackish sludge on the sides of the coolant overflow tank -No milky buildup on the oil cap/dipstick or around the cam, so far as I can see through the oil cap hole -No milky buildup on the transmission dipstick -Transmission wants to hold gears for a long time and shifts hard -Coolant level will drop from the MAX line to the MIN line within a day I'm leaning towards the radiator at this point. I'm probably going to drain the coolant, change the oil, and clean out the overflow tank this weekend and see if it all returns before I do anything really expensive. Thoughts?
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May 4, 2010 20:42
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I went ahead and changed the oil in the 940 tonight. It was coffee-colored and drained freely, so I think I can rule out the head gasket. I'm going to change the coolant tomorrow and go from there.
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May 8, 2010 04:43
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OK, after busting my rear end all weekend to confirm that there's no intermixing of fluids happening between the oil/ATF/coolant, I'm also noticing that I'm getting bubbling/boiling in the coolant overflow tank after normal driving. Based on this, I'm guessing it's time to replace the head gasket, but I'm too tired/frustrated to think straight. If anyone wants to confirm/deny, I'd appreciate it.
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May 10, 2010 04:44
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OK, here's some more information on my 940, since I had the chance to look at the car with a clear head this evening. The tank isn't bubbling immediately after starting the car, and I can't smell exhaust wafting up from the orifice, so I'm betting that it's boiling, and only then after the car gets up to operating temperature. After I shut off the car, I can feel the fluid boiling in the coolant hose that runs from the radiator to the turbo, but not in the upper or lower radiator hoses. I swapped the coolant tank cap for a black 75KPa one we had lying around, which didn't appear to make any difference (although it's certainly within the realm of possibility that it's bad too.) In any case, I have a new cap and tank on the way. I'm just running the standard Prestone 50/50 that you can get anywhere–should I be looking into something different?
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May 10, 2010 23:53
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Yes, your timing is off.
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May 13, 2010 00:22
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OK, new coolant tank/cap are on the 940. It doesn't leak any more, but I'm still getting boiling/bubbling after driving. I'm fed up with it, so I'm taking it into the shop next week. I also pulled off the timing cover this afternoon. I'm assuming that the timing belt tensioner is not supposed to look like this:  
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May 15, 2010 02:37
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Sir Tonk, I actually have what I assume to be a good pair of LH 2.4 MAFs sitting right next to me. I can test them on my car and see if they're any good if you'd like, would be willing to sell one a)if it's good and b) if Splizwarf can't find one for you. Splizwarf posted:TheJeffers: a black interior has actually been surprisingly hard to find this month. They're all beige Thanks for the heads-up, I actually don't need this anymore as the previous owner included them with the car. If you can find a good passenger-side wiper arm (little or no rust), I do need that, though. 
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May 19, 2010 10:35
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Mobil 1 10W30 here, 1992 B230FT with 213,000 miles or something like.
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May 27, 2010 12:54
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It's time to choose your own adventure with my 940's grille. I can't decide whether I like the eggcrate or standard grille better on my car, so you get to decide for me.   I think I'm going to keep rocking the eggcrate since they tend to look better with the E-code headlights I've got coming, but v  v
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Jun 14, 2010 21:36
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Crispulus posted:Possible concern about my turbo, recall when I overloaded the engine. Now I don't think I'm still getting full boost. I wish I would have paid more attention to the gauge but It doesn't seem to boosting well. I don't "hear" that turbo spool anymore. Could be a boost leak. Check all of the intake hoses/pipes thoroughly for holes. You might also pull off your intake piping entirely and ensure that there's no shaft play in the turbo or anything like that. A common problem (if your turbo has one) is that the compressor bypass valve diaphragm goes bad and prevents the turbo from building boost. It's dead simple to check on my 15G. I'm not sure what turbo you're running, but it might be worth a look. Your catalytic converter might also be going bad. If it's plugged/damaged, it may prevent the turbo from fully building boost. Not sure how you'd check that. Since your car's turbo seems to get red-hot, it might behoove you to run the car for a minute or two after reaching your destination in order to let the oil continue to circulate through it and cool it off, if you're not doing so already. I'm sure I'm telling you stuff you already know, but the oil can burn/coke in the turbo and eventually damage the center section. When my 940 experienced a catastrophic cat failure, I couldn't get into boost at all, and the car eventually blew an intake hose as well. After a new cat/hose, the car is running fine. Hope this is of some help.
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Jul 1, 2010 17:42
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I know that very few people here care about Volvo's latest stuff, but Swedespeed and Automobile have both driven the new S60 and seemed to like it a lot. I'm just happy they seem to have risen to the challenge of producing a good car. http://www.swedespeed.com/news/publish/Features/article_1825.html http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/driven/1006_2011_volvo_s60/index.html
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Jul 2, 2010 00:14
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Cakefool posted:Ooh, nearly forgot, I think this car's got a 6-disc changer, where would that be hidden? There's probably an enclosed compartment in the boot for it. It'll be near one of the rear wheel wells.
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Jul 29, 2010 18:49
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ExtremeODD posted:Anyone know where I could find an AMM like this? Ive searched all over and everything has 4+ prongs. Refresh my memory-what year and model is your car? It looks like it has the Rex/Regina fuel injection system rather than LH-Jetronic. Brickboard says that you need a MAP sensor if that's the case: quote:Regina Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Sensor. The easiest way I've found to identify Regina is to look at your coil. If it's on the driver's side strut tower and looks kind of like this, it's most likely a Regina system. quote:Also is there any guides on cleaning the IAC (finding as well)? Here's a couple pictures of where it is on my car. Yours may be different in appearance, but it's probably in the same location.   I don't know if you can clean the IAC valve or not. tonedef131 posted:I'm thinking about getting an S80 for my wife to drive, is there any reason I should avoid this car in general or any specific problem areas to look out for? I have never owned a Volvo but a friend of mine has a 240 wagon I have always loved and I really like the look of the S80s as well. We need something midsized as I have a IS300 that's a bit too small for our frequent 4 adult roadtrips. As I understand it, the first-gen S80s are nice cars when they're running well, but tend to break transmissions often and are generally unreliable cars. There's a reason they go so cheap used. If you want a big, comfy Volvo, then I would look for a nice, later 960 or S90. They have their problems as well and are RWD, but are amazingly smooth and comfortable. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Aug 18, 2010 16:01
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ExtremeODD posted:Wow Im stupid, thought I put the model and year. Its a 1990 volvo 740 nonturbo 150k miles. The thing I think was the mass air flow meter is in the exact same spot as any other cars mass air meter. Its right after the filter, the housing is 3-4in long and same diameter as the intake pipe. Right, that's probably the MAP. The pictures I posted are of my IAC.
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Aug 18, 2010 18:41
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Splizwarf posted:Yeah, what's the logic for which makes/models/markets had Rex/Regina? I believe that most NA 740s and 940s had it from 1990 to 1992, if Brickboard is to be trusted. quote:The electrical plug under the intake in this picture that's not plugged into anything: I have this on my '92 740 Turbo and wondered (since there's so many other PO butcher wiring jobs on this poor bitch) if it was an indication that the engine bay harness had been replaced with a similar one from another year or model with "vestigial wires". Seeing the same thing on another car means maybe it's stock vestigiation? I believe that it's a provision for a cold-start injector, but I don't think I've ever seen a turbo car that has one. Rex/Regina cars, on the other hand, do, so it may be there for that purpose.
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Aug 19, 2010 03:06
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What would it be for in (I'm assuming) another market
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mikerock posted:I want to do the brakes on my 97 850 AWD and I would like to know the parts and part numbers I'll need. Thanks! If all you're looking to do is replace your pads and rotors, just hop over to fcpgroton.com, enter your car's details, and go to the "Brake System" section. Everything you need should be in there.
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Sep 3, 2010 23:52
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Xovaan posted:Anybody have a diagram of a K-Jet wiring harness? I'm trying to safely remove it but the previous owner's "Wiring Harness Rebuild" consisted of him replacing the biodegradable outer shell of it with nothing but electrical tape and in the process fused the starter circuit to the harness as well as other various dash spaghetti. KJet.org has them for a 1980 and a 1981 car under Documents --> Greenbooks.
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Sep 4, 2010 22:23
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Heffer posted:I have a 1996 960 wagon that just gave up the ghost (timing belt broke, probably killed the pistons or valves or what have you). If the timing belt broke, the valves and pistons are almost certainly trashed. A junkyard likely won't give you more than scrap value for it (a few hundred bucks, if that.) Depending on the condition of the various interior and exterior bits, you might be able to make money parting it out and then junking it. Alternately, just throw it up on Craigslist for $1000 and see if there's some crazy Volvo person in your area who will buy it for the purpose of rebuilding it. It's hard to say exactly how much you'll get out of it without knowing the shape it's in, but you should probably be prepared to take anything you can get.
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Sep 9, 2010 22:42
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Put on my Ecodes today: They look great and are pretty drat good headlights to boot.
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Sep 13, 2010 03:12
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ch1mp posted:It's time for new rear shocks on my 244. The internet seems to be in agreement that Blistein are the way to go but price is a bit steep and honestly its just not that kind of car. I am thinking that any new shock will be a huge upgrade over the 21 year old ones that I have. Will I rue the day that I tried to save a little cash by putting Monroes on? Is there a big difference between oil and gas? As I mentioned in my intro post, I am learning wrenching as I go so any useful tips on doing this job myself are appreciated. Bilstein HDs are probably overkill, but have you looked at their Touring Class shocks? They're not expensive at all.
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Sep 22, 2010 18:01
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Is this a 745 SE? 
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Sep 29, 2010 16:26
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Splizwarf posted:One caliper is grabbing sooner rather than harder. When you get the pedal down further the force equals out and the wheel centers for the same reason it centers itself when you come out of a turn. Cakefool is in the UK, IIRC.
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Oct 12, 2010 01:37
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Did the XC of the same era have a diesel option in the US?
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That's a gorgeous 1800, and it looks like the restorers did a fantastic job with it. Congrats!
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Nov 3, 2010 21:06
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ch1mp posted:Couple questions: Are the replicas that ipd makes the only wheels over 15" that will fit a 200 without spacers? I think I asked this before ( The only factory wheels I know of that will bolt right up to any RWD Volvo and are over 15" are Hydras (16x6.5), Galaxies (16x6.5 or 16x7, can't remember), and Polaris (17x7). The latter two are highly uncommon in the US. Hydras are usually readily available on Turbobricks. Eiker also makes a Polaris replica called the E1, but they're quite expensive, and you'd probably have to have them shipped directly from Norway.
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Nov 12, 2010 22:53
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) but what tire size do people like on 15" wheels for this car?
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Francis Baconator posted:Thanks for the good answer, that's sort of the impression I was under, too. Looks like I have some thinking ahead of me. I'm guessing at 220,000 miles, the 740 is about middle-aged? If you know anything else about them, point to watch out for, etc, I'm all ears. For example, can the auto tranny handle all the power and torque coming from the turbo? The automatic has no trouble with stock power levels or more. My 940 is significantly more powerful than stock, and the transmission has never skipped a beat. Part of the reason that the turbo cars are popular among Volvo tuners is that the factory left quite a bit of headroom in the cars for more power on stock components. Brickboard has an excellent guide as to what to watch out for in used 700/900 series Volvos.
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Nov 13, 2010 06:25
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Oxphocker posted:Question for goons: What color of smoke?
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Nov 15, 2010 00:57
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Splizwarf posted:So, looking ahead, what sucks/is awesome about the 760? I noticed a tilt steering wheel in the specs and am intrigued, as steering wheel clearance is really the only thing that bugs me about my 740. I'd say that it depends on what era of 760 you're looking at. If you're looking at the '88-'90 ones, they were the predecessor to the 960, and as such had a lot of the same features (automatic climate control, power driver/passenger seats, premium sound, independent rear suspension on the sedans, etc.), but maintained the B230FT drivetrain. They also have a different dash layout than the 740 (including a tilt wheel.) If I were going to buy one, I'd look at this later era only, as they have a lot of cosmetic improvements over the older cars and you can add some pretty cool trim pieces from the 940 (Ecodes, eggcrate grilles, etc.) with little trouble. They also come stock with LH-Jetronic 2.4, which is really easy to work with if you're looking to add power. The only downsides I can think of is that all the luxury bits are expensive to fix when they break and that the rear suspension uses Nivomat shocks, which are staggeringly expensive to replace. IPD makes a kit to convert them to a regular shock/spring setup, though. Otherwise, they're just as durable as any other RWD Volvo from that era.
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Dec 2, 2010 11:26
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Splizwarf posted:That's the era I'm interested in, and yeah I'd do the IPD conversion and Euro it out. What are the other luxobits that I'll need to worry about? The power seats can go wonky (one side or the other doesn't move, total failure, etc.), and the HVAC vent door system is all vacuum-actuated and apparently is a pain to fix if any of it goes. I probably just read too much Brickboard when I got my 960, but it's worth knowing about so that you can check it out before buying. quote:Also, what are the headlights from that era? I'm in love with the dual sealeds on my '89 740 and I hate the huge boxes on my '92. Stock:  Ecodes (major improvement over stock):  quote:My current 740 is awesome but it's always been the Workhorse Car of my car family and I want a DD that will be nice on long trips and stuff too (the v40 is really my wife's). I thought I'd found it in the 740T I got last year but that turned out to have some rust problems that left me cold to the idea of keeping it forever. Basically I want something with the best bones I can find before I dump cash into it making it nice. If you're not looking to make it fast, I'd also look into '95-'98 960s/S90s. They're more common than 760s, have a superbly refined motor (B6304s) and are a dream for long trips on the freeway. They're also a lot newer, so they should have more life left in them (relatively speaking) than a 760. The same warnings apply with them as with the 760.
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Dec 2, 2010 21:14
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kmcormick9 posted:Going to look at a 2000 V70R this week. What should I look out for? ETM has been replaced I'd make sure that the turbo's not smoking or spraying oil all over the place, that it builds boost OK, and that it's not making any weird noises. You might also want to check that the AWD system is working OK (or that the driveshaft is present in the first place.) See if there's any indication of when the timing belt was last done; if it's due for replacement (the interval is 70K miles or so), that's a potentially expensive job that you'll want to be aware of upfront. Otherwise, all of the general advice that applies to used car buying applies. Good luck!
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Dec 7, 2010 20:42
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