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Ether Frenzy posted:As far as I know, the majority of Redblock engines are non-interference, with only the 16v ones being interference. You're right-the B21/B23/B230 8V redblocks aren't interference. All a timing belt break will do is leave you stranded. As for the other 2-series issues, the main ones are the "biodegradable" wiring harnesses in the pre-'88 models (especially turbos), and the flame trap. Here's my '81 245, which is now back on the road (sort of) after three months of inactivity:  It started out with a B21F running on K-Jet and a 3-speed, and now has an '87 B230F and an AW71, running LH 2.2. The difference in drivability is astonishing. Plans for the future include Megasquirt, a 15G/90+ +T setup, and a T5 swap. Pretty standard stuff, but it should make for a fun DD once all's said and done.
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Apr 15, 2010 21:19
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Xovaan posted:You should paint your airdam / front spoiler the same color as your car! It will look awesome. I need to get some paint mixed to do the hood, so I might factor in some extra to paint the airdam. I kind of like the black-bumper look, though. v  vquote:Glad to see the car (sort of) runs. I'm 95% here with this swap. At this point, it's a matter of waiting until the 19th when my gasket sets come in and doing a full engine rebuild, removing the old engine and the system, putting the accessories onto the new engine, and bolting everything up. At least in theory. Doing the mechanical stuff is easy; doing the wiring is the hard part, and even that's relative. If you're doing an LH2.4 swap with EZK, that's fairly well documented, and there should be plenty of people who can help you troubleshoot. My big issues came from getting the fuel pumps to work and getting the timing right, but that all worked itself out once I ditched the Chrysler ignition. You still need a 563 ECU?
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Apr 15, 2010 21:54
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Xovaan posted:Got one from sbabbs on tbricks otherwise I'd totally snag yours. I'm really not sure what I'd recommend. Mine started working again after I swapped back to the original ignition setup that came in my car, so obviously the wiring for the two are tied together, but I'm not exactly sure how. If you're adding the EZK ignition, that's a total gray area for me. My guess is that you'd be fine with the LH2.4 fuel pump in place of the K-Jet main pump.
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Apr 15, 2010 23:02
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sbaldrick posted:This might be a weird question, but do the headlight wipers on a Volvo do anything. I've never seen them move. They work with the windshield washers-when you activate them, they spray some washer fluid on the headlight lenses and wipe for the same duration as the windshield wipers. At least that's how they work on my 850. After sitting for a week, there were no major puddles under my 240, and it turned right over, so it seems that the progress I made last weekend is holding up. I'm going to have to spend a lot of time cleaning up the wiring this weekend, though. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Apr 17, 2010 |
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Apr 17, 2010 01:18
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Midwest dudes, there's a little meet happening in Yellow Springs, OH on May 1st. It's a Turbobricks thing, but any and all Volvo folk are welcome. Here's the thread.
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Apr 22, 2010 09:28
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Not an Anthem posted:My friend is offering me her mid/late 80's 245DL for ~500$ Eating oil is most likely an issue with one of the main/crank seals if the car doesn't smoke while driving. Assuming that that is the case, you will likely need to replace the timing belt and tensioner as well, since the failure of the front crank seal will cause oil to be deposited on the timing belt. It could also be an oil pan gasket, but that's less likely. For the sake of preventative maintenance, you should also replace the flame trap. Assuming that these things are dealt with (and they are relatively cheap if you do them yourself), the car should be pretty reliable.
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Apr 23, 2010 06:11
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Xovaan posted:Can anybody confirm this? Dunno about the 9-pin, but the gray connector does indeed mate with the engine harness, and there should be a white relay that plugs into the black 6-pin connector. It's more commonly referred to as the main relay.
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Apr 26, 2010 17:06
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keykey posted:Is there any way to turn off the service soon light on a '96 volvo 850 without having to take it to the dealership so they can rape me with a $50 because they can fee every 3000 miles since I do oil changes and all applicable maintenance myself? Found on volvoclub.co.uk: quote:Switch the ignition on. As you look at the speedometer on the dash, beneath it opposite the trip reset button is a rubber plug. Remove the plug and with a thin pointer such as a ball point pen, depress the pin. This will reset the service light.
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Apr 27, 2010 17:53
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I now know what it feels like to kill a 240.  (I junked my 242 parts car today)
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May 9, 2010 07:02
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Shredded the timing belt on my 240 today in the midst of rush-hour traffic, 60 miles from home.  I never checked it before installing the engine, but if I had, I would have caught that something was up. It was an ancient one, judging by how desiccated the remains were, and how easy it was to just pop the teeth off. 
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May 10, 2010 21:44
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DONT DO IT posted:I just changed the fuel and air filters in my 240 turbo, it went well enough... Getting those freakin' bolts off the fuel filter was a fun experience. I got everything back on, but the car just kept cranking when I tried to start it. Apparently I didn't tighten the bolts on the fuel filter enough and spewed gas all over the windshield and engine bay. Tightening these connections fixed the leak, but not the problem. I get out of the car and notice a wonderful puddle of oil spreading all over my driveway. Probably about a quart. What did I do..? Did I put the fuel filter on backwards leading to excessive crankcase pressure?! The fuel filter should be installed so that the arrows on the label are pointing to the passenger side of the car, towards the engine (i.e., in the direction of fuel flow). Even if you had it on backwards, it wouldn't have any effect on the oil or the crankcase pressure, since air doesn't normally flow back through the injectors. I'd make sure that you have your oil filter and drain plug installed properly, and I'd also make sure that your oil cooler (if you have one) isn't leaking from around that area as well. As for the non-start issue, are you getting spark and fuel? e: Splizwarf/deratomicdog, the 850 version of those wheels are called the Columba. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 08:40 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 07:58
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Not an Anthem posted:I read a bunch on kjet and some other sites but I guess I wasn't specific enough in this thread, how does a 1989 240DL 4 cyl wagon that needs a drivers side strut sound? They're asking 500 and I have no idea about it because I haven't seen it, its a daily driver and its drivable right now, they'll probably take it over to me this weekend. I have a mechanic friend who loves volvos to show me the ropes if it sounds like a good deal. Should be decent. It's an LH 2.4 car that was made after they fixed the wiring harness issues that plagued the earlier (pre-88) models, so there shouldn't be too much trouble from a wiring standpoint. It'll probably need more than just a front strut, but assuming all the electrical stuff is OK, any mechanical fixes should be pretty easy, especially if you're friendly with an experienced mechanic. e: Also got 27MPG out of the 245 on my latest trip home from school, which is better than our 850 usually manages on the same circuit. Not bad. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 07:43 on May 23, 2010 |
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May 23, 2010 00:09
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I run GTX 10W-30 in my B230F, and in our NA '95 850. Seems to make for a pretty happy tractor motor, and the whiteblock's never complained, either.
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May 27, 2010 17:39
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I replaced the idle air controller in my 240 today, and it idles better than it did with the old one installed, but it still doesn't settle down into a particularly smooth idle-it surges a little and shudders every 10 seconds or so as if it's about to die, but it never stalls out. I've gone through and checked some of the vacuum lines, which aren't in the best of shape, but is there anything else I should look into to see if I can improve the idle? Might my injectors be dirty?
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Jun 1, 2010 20:45
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Xovaan posted:So sometimes when I turn my key for my car before I start, I'll hear a whirring and a ping and my car will start immediately instead of cranking several times. What could be causing this? Am I hearing that some sort of injector isn't working and may be possibly shorting somewhere? I dunno about the "ping," but the whirring is your fuel pump running for a couple seconds to prime the system and build pressure. My car does this as well, and while it seems logical that it would do it every time you prepared to start the car, it's similarly intermittent. 
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Jun 4, 2010 03:12
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What transmission are you using with the B230FT? If you're keeping your M46, you won't have to change anything, but if you're swapping to an M47, you'll need to find a rear end from a '89 or newer 240 along with the electronic gauge cluster. The LH2.4 240s had a sensor in the rear end that provided a signal for the electronic speedo, so the M47 doesn't have any provision for driving a speedo cable. Nor does the AW71 I swapped into my wagon, which is why I've been running without a speedometer for the past couple months.
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Jun 7, 2010 22:02
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Is anyone in this thread in any proximity to a yard with a/some 740 Turbo(s), specifically the 1985-1989 models? I need to get some intake parts for my +T project, but no one on Turbobricks seems to have the parts, and there aren't any in the local yards. Of course, I'd be willing to compensate you for the parts and your time. Send me a message at ck299906 (at) ohio (dot) edu if this seems worth your while. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jun 10, 2010 |
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Jun 10, 2010 05:10
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markdown posted:I blew my motor. Anyone have an extra or know of any good rebuilders on the East coast? Which car? What engine? What model year?
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Jun 11, 2010 23:25
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DONT DO IT posted:What are the correct plug orders on the Distributor Cap and block? I thought I set all the plugs on the cap just like the old, but all I could get out of it was a reminder of why people label these things. At least the rotor only went on one way. http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbooks/TP30432-2_ignition_systems.pdf The info in that link (which is a PDF file that you should probably save) should get you on the right track. If the dashed line in the "Spark Plugs" diagram is supposed to be your firewall, then that might be your problem-cylinder 1 is nearest to the front of the car, and cylinder 4 is nearest to the firewall.
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Jun 20, 2010 09:05
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So, I've got a weird issue with my 245. When driving on roads that have fairly pronounced crowning or grooving as a result of wear, I get a moaning noise from my right front wheel that isn't dependent on speed-it just appears at one pitch and goes away when I turn the steering wheel slightly. Is this a symptom of a failing wheel bearing? It cropped up a couple months ago, and would only occur occasionally then, but on my drive back to school yesterday, it was nearly constant, and would only go away when the road curved enough to turn the wheel more than 10 degrees off center. On the plus side, my turbo parts pile keeps growing-I've got a nice braided stainless oil feed hose on the way, and I received a 5-bar oil pressure gauge and sender last week, so once I get my turbo (which is being reclocked, last I checked), I'll just need a return line, some intake hoses, a computer, and a downpipe. From an ignition standpoint, I think I'm going to use the Bosch distributor from my B21FT until I turn up the boost past stock levels. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Jun 22, 2010 |
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Jun 22, 2010 10:12
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ch1mp posted:The inline Fuel pump on my 89 240 stopped turning off after the key is removed. It used to run for about 15 seconds after the key was removed and now it is constant. I am thinking this must be the fuel pressure regulator but I just wanted to check with you guys in case there is a more likely culprit or if someone has experienced this before. Any one familiar with this? The FPR is a mechanical part and has no influence on whether the fuel pump runs or not. I'd be double-checking your relay circuit, since it should shut off immediately when the key is turned off. It sounds like you had some problems before that may or may not have been exacerbated by the repair.
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Jun 23, 2010 22:04
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ch1mp posted:Oh. I guess I was assuming that the fuel pump has some sort of pressure activated switch that turns it off when it runs against too much pressure and that a bad FPR wouldn't allow sufficient pressure to activate that switch. Basically, when vacuum is applied to the FPR, it allows fuel to build to a certain pressure in the rail, and allows the excess to flow back to the tank. If it went bad, you'd have mixture issues, but the fuel pumps would still work just fine. In a 240, when you switch on the key, the fuel pumps turn on for a short interval to prime the system, and then shut off. When you start cranking the engine, the the relay switches on, and the fuel pumps start doing their thing. If the engine starts, they keep pumping. If the car doesn't start, the pumps shut off again. I don't have a wiring diagram for an LH2.4 car in front of me, but the fuel pump circuit in my bastard 240 is triggered by the coil being energized when you turn the key on/crank it. If the wire you moved around wasn't originally grounded to the body, it's quite possible that the circuit isn't triggering (or more accurately, de-triggering) any more.
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Jun 24, 2010 04:39
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ch1mp posted:So it turns out that the fuel pump will not turn off if the fuel pump relay is FULL OF WATER!! The relay in question is your main relay, not a fuel pump relay, although it does control the pump. That blue wire with a green stripe (or green with blue, as it may be) should not be grounded to the chassis at all, as it appears to be providing power or signal (through a diode in the relay) to your injectors, MAF, and IAC. Or something like that. Regardless of its function, it needs to be reconnected to the relay harness. quote:One additional note: the fuel pump relay system failed a few months ago. The problem turned out not to be the relay itself the the wire supplying ground to the relay. The fix was to cut the ground wire to the relay harness and screw that to the frame (the relay was also replaced). In light of the info in your last post, I want to revisit this. I'm very interested in what you mean by "the fuel pump relay system failed." What symptoms led you to that conclusion, and what led you to believe that grounding that particular wire would fix it? SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Jun 28, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 05:51
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wtf 
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ch1mp posted:
Well, it wouldn't hurt to check the wire that provides that signal-if the computer can't tell that the engine is spinning, then it won't turn on the pumps. That's one of the things that the ECU uses that signal for, if it's anything like LH2.2. Crispulus posted:I didn't want to have it die in traffic so I kept revving it high at lights and such. When I got home I went to pop the hood so I could trickle charge it and noticed the exhaust to the turbo and the turbo were bright freaking orange. Must be a K-Jet thing-my friend's 245T does the same thing when it's under heavy load.
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Jun 29, 2010 06:25
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It's also worth checking your wastegate actuator and the vacuum line that controls it. I don't believe that the T3 that came on the original 240s has a CBV.
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Jul 1, 2010 22:48
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Your emissions will increase, but that's about it.
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Jul 2, 2010 07:07
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Your O2 sensor is pre-cat, so it shouldn't change anything. As for the lambda light, I believe that it's just triggered at a certain mileage interval (to indicate the need for O2 sensor replacement) and doesn't serve any diagnostic function. The greenbook for troubleshooting the lambda system doesn't even mention it, if that's any indication of its importance.
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Jul 2, 2010 08:15
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Cakefool posted:Late 850 wagons: Rust in the front edges of the front wings - how bad a sign is this? I may have found a car that isn't on fire or biting me but there's a touch or rust at the front end. It seems very unusual for an 850 to rust in that area. I'd be looking for accident damage and/or dodgy repairs.
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Jul 11, 2010 07:35
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Crispulus posted:Awwww. Okay. I was all excited about playing with electrics. But that was my first guess, looks like it was the correct one. On my 242T parts car, the O2 sensor was located at the bottom of the collector of the exhaust manifold, pointing straight up. The wire should be going to a connector near the firewall, if it's there at all.
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Jul 20, 2010 18:24
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Hey Crispulus-here's the K-Jet fault tracing chart from the greenbook. It doesn't exactly narrow things down, but it should give you a few places to start looking. I don't think that the O2 sensor should affect your idle; the car isn't in closed loop at that point.
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Jul 23, 2010 23:48
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Crispulus posted:Good omens, eh? Indeed. K-Jet is very sensitive to vacuum leaks, so it's definitely worth your time to go through and make sure that all the hoses are in good shape and are properly connected. At least it's easier on the turbo cars; I never bothered troubleshooting anything in my wagon when it still had the B21F in it because it was so hard to get to anything relating to the injection system with the fuel distributor and such crammed up under the intake.
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Jul 24, 2010 20:11
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 I can't believe that that 122 is a Midwest car. I love the color.
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Jul 28, 2010 12:51
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It might be the shifter bushings. This won't let you inspect them, but have you pulled the boot up from around the shifter to visually inspect what's going on underneath?
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Aug 4, 2010 23:39
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Xovaan posted:My friend and I are gonna be pulling the engine from my 240 for the swap tomorrow. If anybody's in SoCal and knows a thing or two about this sort of thing, we're always open for a hand or two to wrench stuff and I'd compensate in beer and Cinnamon Toast Crunch. How'd it go?
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Aug 13, 2010 15:28
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TheJeffers posted:Right, that's probably the MAP. The pictures I posted are of my IAC. That's not a MAP sensor. That's the air temperature sensor for the Regina system. FCP Groton carries them if it's in need of replacement. Given the codes you're getting, it sounds like you should examine your O2 sensor as well.
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Aug 18, 2010 19:11
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I honestly have no idea what it's supposed to look like or what the diagnostic process for it would be, but if it's really dirty, it can't hurt to replace it. Rex/Regina cars are a complete mystery to me. 
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Aug 19, 2010 01:21
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TheJeffers posted:I believe that it's a provision for a cold-start injector, but I don't think I've ever seen a turbo car that has one. Rex/Regina cars, on the other hand, do, so it may be there for that purpose. It's also extant in NA LH2.4 240s, but I think it came hooked up from the factory-if you go look at the parts car, the injector is installed on the underside of the intake manifold. I love the look of the '73 140-I'd love to have a 145 from that model year. 
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Aug 19, 2010 14:03
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Xovaan posted:*~PROGRESS~*  Glad to see that you're finally digging into it.
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Aug 23, 2010 02:31
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Just cut it off-it doesn't sound like it's worth saving at this point.
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Sep 5, 2010 17:58
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Xovaan posted:Yeah, probably not. But that's some easy money if I can salvage it. The wires and connectors are in great shape-- it's just that the housing itself for the wires is completely hosed up and covered in electrical tape. So take the electrical tape off
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Sep 7, 2010 03:02
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