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I have Bilstein TCs installed in the rear of my station wagon, and plan to do the fronts within the next couple months. They're a great shock-they're stiffer than stock, but not so much that they compromise the ride.
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Sep 22, 2010 20:33
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That's a pity-the S40/V50 is probably my favorite of the current Volvo products. 
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Sep 29, 2010 08:17
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Likely, yes.
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Sep 29, 2010 16:35
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The heater core in my 245 must be going out-when I turned on the defroster tonight, the windshield fogged up instantly with a persistent, kinda greasy condensation, and the car was permeated with a rather unpleasant smell. Of course, it decides to do this right as it starts getting cold here. 
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Oct 15, 2010 01:34
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Xovaan posted:I can't find my Haynes and Bentley books right now to keep researching this. Anybody know of a guide on which wires to splice on an LH2.4 Wiring Harness onto a KJet chassis loom? I know I have to cut the wire that controls WOT but that's about it right now. The engine is in the car; I just need to wait for my crimps to come in and then I'm pretty much good to go. D: The wires for the idiot lights and the starter are in the same place in both the K-Jet and LH 2.x wiring harnesses, so the big gray connector on the firewall probably won't need any modification. The ECU will need switched power. Dunno about the EZK, although it probably won't work correctly if you don't have a tone ring rear end and an electronic gauge cluster, since the ECU and the ignition require a speed signal. This is a question probably better asked on Turbobricks.
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Nov 10, 2010 00:49
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Quad rectangles look OK, but they'd better have H1/H4 housings in them-they blow chunks with sealed beams. If you want a 760 with them, you'll have to buy a pre-'88 model. v vIt's been a while since I posted about my personal Volvo happenings-I traded my '81 245 to a friend for an '89 244DL. While I regret getting rid of the wagon, the quarter panels would have rusted out by the spring if I'd kept driving it through the winter, and I needed something more dependable, since I have a job now. It's had a lot of problems, though-the heater hose running from the firewall to the head burst the first day I had it, the timing belt and water pump needed to be replaced, and I lost the rear cam plug (and all my oil along with it) last weekend. The overdrive doesn't work, the taillights are unpredictable, and the seats need some work, but it's still a decent car.  XOVAAN: Show me which wires you're having trouble with and I'll see if I can help.
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Dec 3, 2010 06:53
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Without having a Bentley book here in front of me, my suspicion is that the "data link connector" is the diagnostic box that lives on the driver's side strut tower in cars that originally came with LH2.4. I'd skip the spaghetti and just connect the blue wire from that connector to fuse 11, 12, or 13 in your car, since it's probably for switched 12V for the ECU. I did something similar to get power for the computer in my 2.2 swap.
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Dec 4, 2010 18:50
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Xovaan posted:Ahhh, all right. Thanks a lot! I'm gonna try to get some of this stuff done on Monday and Tuesday since I have both days off. It should crank right now if you have the grey 8-pin connector on the firewall plugged in. 
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Dec 6, 2010 04:38
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A 264 will have the PRV (Peugeot/Renault/Volvo) V6 (Volvo calls it the B27 or B28), which is problematic for a number of reasons. First off, the oiling system for the cams and valvetrain isn't really up to the task, so they usually eat their cams around 70,000 miles if they haven't been meticulously maintained. Secondly, that engine will have the K-Jet fuel injection system, which is trouble because they didn't make that many cars with that particular iteration of it, and finding spare parts will be a bear, to say the least. Finally, all other tasks related to engine maintenance will be much more difficult than on comparable cars with a redblock, since the engine takes up so much more space in the engine bay. In short, that iteration of PRV is a fairly flawed engine that isn't really worth the investment required to bring it back from the dead. I'm with the old guy-I wouldn't wish it on anyone.  That said, if you're of a mind to swap, it would be fairly easy to get some flavor of domestic V8 installed. In other news, I installed an IPD overdrive bypass kit on the AW70 in my 244 tonight-it works great, but it's a bear to get into place. I ended up having to drop the transmission crossmember to get at the old solenoid, and broke a motor mount in the process.
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Dec 22, 2010 05:15
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LloydDobler posted:Even easier to swap in a Volvo turbo 4. That too. I only mentioned the V8 option because the PRV cars have the dipped front swaybar; otherwise, I'd go ahead and drop some flavor of B230 in. Speaking of swaps, how's yours coming along, Xovaan?
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Dec 22, 2010 07:10
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ch1mp posted:I've had an itch to get another 240 or older model and it's not going away. I'm thinking 240 because I want to drive it year round and it seems like it would just be wrong to DD any older vintage in the salt belt. Actually, I sometimes get the same angst from daily driving my current 240 in this environment - they seem to be on the cusp. Does anyone else get this with 240's? I do, which is why I traded my '81 wagon to a friend (with other cars to DD) for an '89 244 with a tiny amount of rust. The '89 has a galvanized body, so it'll probably be good to go for quite a few years yet; the '81 does not, so the rust that it had in the spare tire wells and in the rear quarters probably would have become fatal had I driven it through the winter. I worry about my current car rusting a little bit, but a good wash every couple weeks does a fine job of keeping the salt from building up too much. The mudflaps keep a lot of salt spray off the undercarriage, too. quote:One of the cars for sale in my area is a 75 240 wagon. It has a B20 engine which is described as fuel injected. Wikipedia tells me that this engine was also used on a 6" howitzer - a selling point, no? The car is described as running very poorly and probably can't be driven away. What is the reputation/part availability for these engines - is this the hateful fuel injection system that Lloyd was talking about somewhere earlier? Are body/chassis/interior parts on this car usually interchangeable with later models? A '75 240 is a very weird beast. It's the only model year 240 that came with a B20, so finding parts for it is going to be very difficult. It's not really a motor worth saving, anyway-it only made 98 horsepower stock, and given the temperament of the K-Jet MFI, it's bound to be making nowhere near that much power at this point (and obviously isn't running that well anyway). I'm not sure if there are any other one-year-only peculiarities that come with a '75, but even if parts are available, if it's not been kept up, you will be replacing everything. About the only reason I'd consider it is if the shell isn't rusty; otherwise, the potential for it to be a total dog is incredibly high. quote:Another is a 69 164 that I mentioned before that needs at least a carb rebuild to run properly. I am not sure how excited I am by this model. 164s are cool, and a '69 avoids all the weirdness that comes with a later car with EFI. I also remember reading somewhere that the '69 model had a higher-compression engine, so it's likely to perform better than later EFI models with the lower-compression B30F. If you're looking for a cruiser, it could work out well (assuming, again, that it's not been completely let go).
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Jan 7, 2011 09:19
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ch1mp posted:I am beginning to form the opinion that frequent winter washing does more harm than good - at least where I live. If the road ever gets clear and dry for a significant period of time then maybe it would make sense. This year those conditions have not been present since well before thanksgiving when they started throwing down salt. I still think you're better off getting the salt out of there every now and again instead of leaving it to collect in the nooks and crannies of the underbody all winter, but it's not my car, so...v  vquote:The ad for this car was updated and price reduced as a result of a professional inspection. Inspection says that stuck floats have resulted in gas in the oil. Flooding seems like the best case scenario for that symptom but could it not also be bad rings or head gasket? a compression test would eliminate these right? It is also an automatic which is another negative. The guy only bought it a week ago and I've seen it for sale on craigslist at least once in the last six months. And then there is the ethical quandary of driving this year round. I think it's a plausible diagnosis-a blown headgasket probably wouldn't cause that much gas to be in the oil, and your rings would have to be really bad to let a lot of gas by during normal operation, as I understand it. Then again, I am not a mechanic. v vAn automatic 164 is going to be a very slow proposition, and the automatic is a BW35, which doesn't have overdrive. As a result, the already mediocre fuel economy of the B30 will probably get even worse if you do a lot of highway driving, unless you don't mind driving any faster than 55. Even then, I'd still consider it more trouble than it's worth for a DD, although Crispulus might be better able to fill you in on the realities of it, since he owns one. If I were you, and wanted a vintage Volvo, I'd get a nice car shipped from the west coast or the southwest, and keep a later-model 2/7/940 around for DD duty, if you must have RWD. There just aren't that many nice vintage Volvos in the Midwest, and even the nicest examples will often still have rust. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jan 7, 2011 |
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Jan 7, 2011 22:11
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SwashedBuckles posted:I just bought a white '93 245 with 117,000 miles on the clock. It has a new exhaust, alternator, water pump, and timing belt, and minimal rust (I live in MA so I'm surprised by this). I have a few questions, namely: If you look at the accordion hose that runs to the intake manifold from the airbox, there should be a pair of smaller hoses that attach to it. One of these runs from the top of the accordion hose to a location between the intake runners for cylinders 3 and 4; at this end of the hose, you'll find that the hose goes over the top of a small round plastic housing with a plastic or metal screen in it. That screen is the flame trap. If it's clogged, just take the hose off, remove the housing from the smaller hose that it plugs into under the intake manifold, and replace the element. Pop the housing back into the small hose, reconnect the big hose and the smaller vacuum line that connects to the housing, and you'll be good to go. I'd recommend a metal flame trap element; all the plastic ones I've dealt with have been stuck to the housing, and can be very difficult to remove without breaking it. If you want to replace everything, FCP Groton offers a kit. quote:2) Some of the outer trim was screwed on by idiots. Come warmer weather I'd like to fix their mistakes and attach them properly, but what kind of adhesive should I use? If it's the rubber trim running above the rocker panels, I've had good luck with 3M foam trim tape. Just make sure to clean the trim and the area it attaches to on the body with a mild solvent to make sure it sticks well. quote:3) Is there anything that I should be watching out for in particular? This is the oldest car I've ever owned so I don't really know what creaks are normal and which are telling me that my wheels are about to fall off. Most of the major trouble areas in these cars have already been taken care of by your car's previous owners. The mileage is low enough (remarkably low, in fact) that your suspension bushings and components should still be good for a while yet. Things to keep an eye out for are corrosion on the fusebox, and by extension, water leaks-these often go hand in hand and can lead to intermittent electrical issues. The heater core and blower fan motor in these cars is a major pain to replace, but again, with as low as your car's mileage is, it should be a long time before you have to address them. The last thing I'd recommend that you check is the rubber cam plug in the back of the cylinder head; if it's loose, it needs to be replaced ASAP, since it can cause you to lose the majority of your oil. Just stay on top of preventative maintenance stuff, and the car should serve you for many miles to come. 
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Jan 7, 2011 |
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Jan 7, 2011 23:27
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Our 850 used to go into a limp-home mode if you moved the gear selector out of "D" and into "3" or one of the other non-D selections while the car was moving; it was especially annoying when you were going downhill in the winter and wanted some engine braking to help slow the car. A couple restarts usually fixed the issue. It might be nothing, or it might be the sensor Splizwarf mentioned going wonky. We had said sensor replaced about a year ago, but I've been driving 240s since that time, so I don't know if it affected anything.
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Jan 14, 2011 00:46
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Xovaan posted:Update: No downsides. The resistor pack is there purely to bring the injector impedance/resistance up to a level that the computer can control; orange-tops (assuming that they're 850T injectors) are already high-impedance, so they don't need to be run with a resistor pack.
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Jan 16, 2011 02:37
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Xovaan posted:Anybody have a suggestion on custom fuel lines? Likely going to be taking my old barbed connections from my k-jet lines and simply running the stock fuel filter location and having them put them on new lines (with the 2.4 fuel rail connectors on the other side of the lines, of course). Should I go braided or rubber? This is exactly what I did when I installed the B230/2.2 setup in my previously K-Jet wagon. There's no reason to move the fuel filter; that location is much easier to access than on later NA 240s. I used rubber line; braided line is probably overkill for that application. quote:Oh, and protip: There are only four wires necessary to do an LH2.4 swap on a K-Jet car. It is that simple. Just takes patience to pin out the right wires. :o Mind noting what they are? 
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Jan 18, 2011 03:36
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That doesn't sound like an issue that's specifically due to the injectors or timing; if the engine were getting too little or too much fuel, it probably wouldn't continue to run, nor would it do it that consistently. Have you checked your throttle position switch to make sure that it's properly adjusted? That switch tells the computer that the throttle's closed and that it should be idling-if it's badly adjusted or broken, then the computer won't have any idea what state it should be running the car in. Having been at the point you're at with my swap, stop, breathe, and change one thing at a time. Don't go and tear everything out and change it, because then you've increased the number of variables that could be causing your issues. You might fix it this way, but you're more likely to end up frustrating yourself. e: write the sentence good SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Jan 18, 2011 |
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Jan 18, 2011 14:22
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Xovaan posted:Thanks for the info. No problem! Did you check the switch? When you open the throttle body, there should be a noticeable click from the manifold area, and you might even be able to feel it in the throttle spool. Even if it's adjusted properly, it might not hurt to swap in a different one-that 940 would be the perfect donor. quote:When the engine is completely cold (the first time we started it up and also the first time we started it up this morning), it idles fine, but then then it does the same problem again. Engine temperature shouldn't affect it. My 2.4 240 ('89) idles slower when the engine is dead cold, and speeds up a little once it warms up and settles in, but it never surges. quote:Also: My belts are too long and I don't have my power steering hooked up yet. Could improper belts cause this too? Just throwing it out there. It shouldn't. The accessories do load down the engine, but the computer and IAC compensate for that.
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Jan 19, 2011 01:31
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In re: the PRV, if it looks like this:  It's a B280, and should be a quite decent engine, assuming it's been kept up. If it looks like this:  It's a B28, and probably isn't worth the trouble.
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Feb 2, 2011 23:41
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That particular one has the K-Jet injection system, which will be really tough to fix on the road if anything (aside from the fuel pump) goes south. Spare parts are tough to get, and from owning an auto '81 245, you'll be in a world of hurt without overdrive. Plus, the engine barely made 100HP when it was new, so it'll be a total slug with the AC on (assuming it even has it). I would not buy that car. In general, the big issue with 240s is that there are too many whose owners have taken on the "HURR IT GO 500K" mentality, and put off the basic maintenance, like timing belts, water pumps, shocks, bushings, etc. If you really must have one for your roadtrip, I'd get an '88-'93 model (since the wiring is guaranteed not to be bad) and do the timing belt, water pump, and fuel filter. Once that's done, I'd keep a set of injectors, a fuel and spark computer, and a spare fuel pump in the trunk, since those are the main failure points. If it's an '89-'93 model, I'd also keep a spare crank position sensor on hand. With that stuff done, the car should be pretty drat trustworthy, but if something does go south, you'll have the stuff to fix it, and none of the above are that hard to do. Even so, they're loud, cramped cars, and the suspension bushings are often shot by this time, so putting a ton of miles on one could get really abusive. Plus, the seats wear out really badly in a lot of cases, and replacement foam is tough to get, so if that's an issue, you might be really uncomfortable after 100 miles, much less 6000. In short: $1500 probably won't get you a "reliable" 240, and even if you do get lucky, even the newest ones are almost 20 years old at this point, so there's a lot of stuff that's probably worn out. Expect to put at least $500-$1000 into whatever you buy to get it shipshape.
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Feb 11, 2011 07:26
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Nor does your M47. So glad to hear that you got things figured out, man. That's one of the best feelings in the world.
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Mar 5, 2011 20:37
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Glad you're OK, man. I don't know what the jack is like in an S60, but I've had the factory jacks from RWD cars go wobbly too many times (even on flat concrete) for me to be comfortable using them for anything but a tire change. On a somewhat lighter note, I've amassed almost all the parts necessary to add a turbo to my 240, but I'm missing one thing-the coldside pipe that connects the intercooler to the intake manifold. I need one from a pre-'90 740 Turbo, but the local yards are barren. If anyone here has a spare, I'd rather buy it from you than try and get it on Turbobricks. I don't have plat/PMs, but if you want, send me an email at ck299906 at ohio dot edu, and maybe we can make a deal.
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Mar 23, 2011 08:09
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Splizwarf posted:Just the metal, not the rubber part of the coldside tubing? I probably got you covered. Yeah, just the metal-I was planning on getting some new couplers for it. If you have/could find something, that would be awesome. 
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Mar 23, 2011 19:27
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Pull the bulb holders out and clean the connections.
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Apr 10, 2011 23:07
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Anyone have any tips for replacing motor mounts in a 240? Both of mine are broken, and it's looking like the job will be a giant pain in the rear end.
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Apr 22, 2011 22:14
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TheJeffers posted:Basically, it's time to drag out the tractor again. Or just jack the thing up using the oil pan. v vI had to do the same thing when I installed the IPD OD solenoid blockoff; you can get enough excursion to unload the mounts without crunching the engine against anything.
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Apr 23, 2011 14:29
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zundfolge posted:Anyone have any tips for replacing motor mounts in a 240? Both of mine are broken, and it's looking like the job will be a giant pain in the rear end. Got this done with two jacks and a wooden stave. It was a tremendous pain, but the engine is much more stable now-I'd say it was worth the effort. It also cleared up a weird vibration under braking that I thought was an unbalanced wheel or a rotor with terrible deposits on it. I also installed this fun little thing:  For those not in the know, this is the rare power steering pump bracket for B230s that came without air conditioning. I haven't had power steering since I got the car 6 months ago because my A/C compressor was seized; fortunately, I was able to pull this off my old wagon before it moved on to a new owner. It's great to have PS again-I forgot how nice the 240 steering feel is. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Apr 27, 2011 |
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Apr 27, 2011 17:45
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ease posted:Can someone tell me where I can buy the tabs that hold on the trim/molding on the outside of a 1992 940 door. They are like little round plugs with a square base that slide into the trim piece, and then seem to snap into the door. IPD probably has them if the dealer doesn't.
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May 6, 2011 20:47
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empty baggie posted:I guess what i'm asking is, what should I expect to pay for a 240 hood. I kinda already know the answer to this, but is it possible to convert an '89 to a flatnose? Short answer: Sorta. If you have the right grille, then it'll look OK, but the cowl won't line up with the depression in the hood. To make it look "right," you need to swap the whole front clip, but that means that you give up the superior lighting of the 86+ front end, unless you get e-codes. I would say $50-$75 is a fair price for a hood.
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May 17, 2011 04:46
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The only thing you MUST replace on an NA B230 is the flame trap (and housing and hose, if you're getting fancy), but that's only $10 worth of stuff. It's not a bad idea to do the timing belt, either.
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May 19, 2011 00:02
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The oil probably isn't anything to be too concerned about-any engine that's had a bad flame trap for a while will usually end up looking like that. Those plug wires are doubtless of poo poo quality; replace those, get the intake hose replaced, and get some Bosch copper plugs installed, and see what happens. Redblocks aren't terribly picky motors, but if the basics aren't there, they'll do exactly what you're experiencing. And replace the flame trap. The only purpose of the distributor in that year of 740 is to offer a path for the spark from the coil to the plugs-its position shouldn't matter too much, and IIRC, it can't really be adjusted that much anyway. It looks a lot like my 240 did when I got it. Assuming that the PO(s) didn't muck around with the wiring, there's nothing there beyond saving.
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May 25, 2011 03:38
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Now I know what to do with the spare shortblock I have in the barn.  That's awesome that you got that together and running so quickly-what turbo do you have on there?
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Jun 9, 2011 06:48
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BrokenKnucklez posted:With out sounding like a complete tard. Is it normal for volvo's to have the timing belts run out in the open with out covers? It's pretty common practice, but it's not particularly wise-without the belly pan on (which is also pretty common, at least on RWD cars), there's a nice gap for stuff to get kicked up into the belt and gently caress things up. In the case of Xovaan's car, there may not be a way to run a timing cover. The Volvo 16V motors use a different block than the 8V motors, and while the head bolts on to an 8V shortblock, I don't know if the bolt holes of the 16V timing cover line up.
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Jun 9, 2011 15:30
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The only bad thing about buying a used 240 is undoing all the deferred maintenance if previous owners haven't kept up with it. That can take a decent investment, but my experience mirrors Ether Frenzy's-once it's running well, $150-$250 a year should keep a 240 going quite nicely. Portland is 240 heaven-check out OVTuners.org or Turbobricks if you're looking for a local enthusiast community. You might be able to roust some DIY assistance if you need it.
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Jun 20, 2011 21:57
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Anyone ever work on the automatic climate control in an early ('83) 760? There's a beautiful example for sale in my area that runs like a top (K-Jet V6, ho!), but the climate control doesn't seem to work (fan doesn't come on, AC compressor doesn't cycle), and I'm not sure whether it would be a weekend project or a Herculean undertaking to fix it. The vacuum doors all cycle properly, and the AC system was converted to R134, so it seems like the potential for it to work is there. The motor fuse looked a little melty, so is it possible that the fan has seized? Normally, I wouldn't even consider such a thing, but this one only has 95K on it or so, is completely rust-free, and since it belonged to a dealer's family, it was kept up well. It's too expensive at the moment, but I'm going to keep an eye on it and see if it gets any cheaper.
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Jul 11, 2011 23:31
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First thing to check out is the engine wiring harness. If that's good, then read the greenbooks on k-jet.org and familiarize yourself with the troubleshooting process that they contain. If you're going to fix it properly, you need a set of pressure gauges, a dwell meter, and the mixture adjustment wrench that IPD sells, to start. K-Jet hates bad gas, vacuum leaks/unmetered air, and improper fuel and control pressure.
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Jul 12, 2011 01:34
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ch1mp posted:Your reply filled me with joy. Was it crispy, or extra-crispy?
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Jul 12, 2011 04:50
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LloydDobler posted:Yes. The fan motors were notorious for clogged drains that killed the motor bearings and caused the melty fuse thing. Fortunately there are upgraded units and it's easy to change. It could be a few other things as well like the resistor pack or maybe a temp sensor. But yeah start with the fan. Good deal about the fan. I'm not a huge fan of the ACC concept either, but there's another '84 760 in our local yard that still has the brain in it, so I might go yank that for spares if I get the car. As for the PRV, I'll check into the history, but when I heard it run, there was zero valvetrain noise, and the owner said that the cams had been replaced at some point in the past. I figure if I were to purchase it, giving it a diet of 0W-30 or 5W-30 and keeping up with the changes would probably sustain it.
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Jul 12, 2011 16:07
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ch1mp posted:Is my b21FT supposed to have an oxygen sensor? Because I don't see one anywhere although the green book seems to refer to it - at least for the b21F. It's screwed into the bottom of the exhaust manifold behind the turbo. quote:Also, I would like to clean the throttle valve and maybe around the air flow sensor plate but the CRC throttle body cleaner spray specifically says not to use on turbo systems. Is this even worth doing - if so what would an appropriate cleaning agent be? Just give it time to evaporate completely and I'd imagine that you would be fine-you don't want to damage the turbo in the case that some residual cleaner causes a backfire or something.
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Jul 14, 2011 02:59
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Doccers posted:Thank you, I'll look into that. If you get all the D-Jet stuff off a 164e, then it shouldn't be too hard to Megasquirt your B30. It doesn't grow on trees, but it's not vaporware either.
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Jul 27, 2011 21:45
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