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Alright then, seeing as I got last post in the soon-to-be closed thread I will repost my question Well, I went to check out a 740 turbo today, ran into a few difficulties however. The car wouldn't start, so we put some petrol into it, turned it over a few more times, it started once, idled fine etc, so I killed it and tried to start it again and nothing. The voltmeter was reading 11 with the key on II and when it was idling was reading about 14, we also tried to start it with a battery booster and jumper leads to no avail. We didn't flood it, and the owner was adamant that it started easy most other times. I left and told him to shoot me an email when it was reliably starting again, but I'm wondering what could have caused the troubles? Bobby_Wokkerfella fucked around with this message at 10:26 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 09:33
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:What year is it? Did it turn over or no? It was an 89, and was turning over. Got a story to share?
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Apr 15, 2010 21:29
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I owned a N/A 240 sedan previously, and drove it till the trans eventually went out. I'm currently looking at other bricks to fill the void the 240 has left (it's true, they're addictive) and I've found a nice looking black 1988 740 turbo for sale in my area for $1000 (AUD), the following is from the ad "A good car with some good and bad points: Good points: - New aftermarket turbo (fitted 6 months ago). - Reco engine (fitted 8 months ago). - Boost guage. - Boost controller. - Turbosmart BOV. - Pioneer H/U. - Automatic. - Tow ball. - Good battery. - Electric windows & central locking. - Legendary Volvo Safety. Bad points: - Needs new brake booster (Existing one hisses from a leak). Brakes still have great pressure but requires a lot of pressure on the pedal to work. You can get one of these for about $90 brand new. - Power steering leaks. - Brake lights don't work. - No rego or RWC." How bad are the turbo B23's on fuel compared to the N/A's? Are they still reliable enough to be driven daily? Should I be concerned he's had the engine/turbo redone less than a year ago and is selling it now? What are the major differences between the 700 series and 200 series. Here's the whole ad http://brisbane.gumtree.com.au/c-Ca...QAdIdZ279571224
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May 19, 2011 01:27
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Welp, going to look at an '87 240 Manual wagon tomorrow. This will necessitate selling the 96 manual camry wagon I bought 4 months ago because I spend over 6 months looking for a manual 240 and finding poo poo all... Not all bad, because the profit I'm hoping to make on the camry should nearly pay for the Volvo. The ad says 5spd manual, but I'm assuming it's the 4sp/electronic overdrive? Anything in particular to look out for with those apart from the usual mantran issues and that O/D functions?
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Sep 30, 2011 23:29
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Alright, didn't get to see the car yet, going on Tuesday, but had a few emails back and forth with the seller and it's definitely a 5spd (87 was the first year of them according to K-Jet) She sent me the last bill from the mechanics, had a service etc to the tune of $600 and still got 1k+ to go according to him, but it's mostly trumped up bullshit ( aka $200 to supply and fit a new valve cover gasket  ). Apart from that it's new pads/rotors on the front (she already got the rears done) but what's most concerning is it's apparently also got worn out lower balljoints at the front, how hard are these to fix? I've not done a lot of suspension work before, but I see the parts at least are cheap so I'm still keen on the car. Mechanic wanted $460 to do both lowers; so i'm guessing it's a fairly labour intensive job?
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Oct 3, 2011 00:34
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I bought an 88 240 GL wagon the other week, everything has been awesome, except when I brake, the left indicator switches on, like the brakepedal is an on/off switch. I notice the wiring to the tailgate is fairly frayed/worn though, could this be the source of my issue? The other wiring under the hood looks fairy decent
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Nov 1, 2011 04:53
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Like I mentioned a couple posts back, bought me a 240 wagon, so heres a few photos i took, Yeah, turns out the previous owner had kids...  Interior after I cleaned it all up, after lusting after an M47 Wagon for so long it's great to have one 
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Nov 3, 2011 02:06
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Also, I replaced my busted leaky water pump the other day, but couldn't tension the alternator belts right again after completing it, I'm sorta confused by the fine tuning bolt that runs along the top of the alternator, as if I turn it clockwise or counterclockwise it goes taught for a while, but then slack again etc. Is there a trick I'm missing or what?
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Nov 6, 2011 13:18
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So I'm sorta worried; at the moment my 88' 240 is having some troubles with it's M47 trans. It's pretty much locked out of any gear, won't go into reverse (just grinds) etc. With the car switched off it's possible to muscle the shifter into all the various gears but it's not easy. Checked/adjusted the detent plate. My trans fill bolt has been rounded by the PO so I'm waiting on borrowing a something that can get it out until I can check the fluid but am I hosed? or really hosed?
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Dec 6, 2011 12:49
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Turns out my 88 was running a hydraulic clutch. Flushed it, fed it some new fluid and bled it, she's right as rain now, thank gently caress
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Dec 8, 2011 12:47
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My 88 240 running LH 2.2 (B230F) has started to develop a strong smell of petrol from the engine bay after being at operating temp a long time. I checked for any visible leaks, but can't find any, but it's also using more fuel than I think it should be at around 12-14L/100kms. It's also gotten in the habit of stalling once or twice every cold start (though it's getting driven less because of the fuel issue) and is a bit juttery when pulling off in 1st and stutters under heavy load. From what I've researched, it could be worthwhile taking the throttle body off and giving it a clean (exterior looks filthy as it is) but I'm at a loss to the petrol smell. Flame trap is clean. e: LH 2.2 Bobby_Wokkerfella fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Mar 31, 2012 |
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Mar 30, 2012 23:05
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Did that, unless I pulled the wrong line off, (pulled the one on the grill side vs the firewall) no petrol was in it. Popped the the throttle body off, and this is what she looked like: Cleaned it up proper, put it back together, tinkered with the idle speed screw a bit and now it certainly idles and revs a lot smoother. Time will tell if the MPG improves. It does still have a very petrol-y smell though. e: just noted after doing some more reading, my trottle body is missing one of the vacuum lines to the charcoal canister, i'm assuming this may make a noticible smell. It's to dark to do anything now, but I'm going to check that out tomorrow. FURTHER EDIT: Turns out that the rubber line from the hard petrol line near the firewall to the fuel pressure regulator was split in no less than 3 spots. No loving clue how I missed that before. Between fixing that and cleaning my throttle body the car is now running like a champ. Bobby_Wokkerfella fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Apr 1, 2012 |
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Mar 31, 2012 12:27
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My 88 240 wagon keeps shorting the brake lights out. I disconnected the 3rd light on the hatch to eliminate any fuckery with the tailgate harness, but still everytime I replace the fuse and press the pedal, the fuse blows. What could be causing this? Do the wires normally wear at some point or does a particular connection corrode/go bad? Other than this, the electrics are in decent condition.
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May 30, 2012 07:40
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My 240 has started to hesitate/buck on acceleration,even if I'm holding the throttle steady, PCV system and throttle body is clean, the throttle cable is adjusted and works fine, what else should I look for? The spark plugs look normal as well.
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Jun 23, 2012 05:09
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I undid my power steering hose to change a motor mount the other day, silly me didn't realise I'd ran out of PS fluid until I went looking, and thus had to drive my 240 out of the garage, and down to the store to pick some up, all with low PS fluid, now there is a proper amount of proper fluid in there, it still makes a really loud whining noise at random times when the PS system is being used, did I cook a bearing/something else from driving it whilst low? Or might I still have air in the lines or some other less expensive problem?
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Jul 3, 2012 08:26
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Blinkz posted:Alight so I need to ask a Volvo question. About two years ago my roommate picked up a 1983 Volvo 240. But it doesn't appear to be a normal 240. The trunk has an Intercooler DL badge. Under the hood it has a Garret turbo with and intercooler. The car also uses a K-Jetronic system. Inside the interior is blue with a basic trim. From my understanding this Volvo is rare because they didn't them this way. In fact every manual that I find either shows a 1983 Volvo with either an inercooler or a turbo but never both. Near the trunk it claims its a 244GLT on a sticker. We never got 240 Turbos in Australia so I'm a little out of my depth here, but it just sounds like a normal 240 Turbo unless I'm missing some information? Some turbo models got intercoolers from factory whilst others may have had them added on by a previous owner, but intercoolers provide cooler temperatures to the turbo, and Volvo never fitted intercoolers to non turbo 240's(that I know of) so by having the big INTERCOOLER badge on the back you already know it's got a turbo. If you can take some photos, I'm sure we can get a better idea though.
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Jul 20, 2012 11:15
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As an owner of a manual 200 series, do it! My 88 wagon has been one of my favourite cars to drive/own, and being a late model 240, that one will be immune to a lot of the common faults/pains in the asses like biodegradable wiring, impossible PCV etc, definitely go along and check it out.
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Aug 31, 2012 13:37
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I've just put my beater 240 wagon up for sale as it's got rego coming up and I'm going to need to put in a bunch of work to keep it on the road (tyres, clutch, electrics etc). But I was thinking of replacing it with an 850, what's the deal with them? Is the whiteblock/FWD as reliable as the older bricks? I see a few T-5s hovering around the >5k market, do the turbos have any issues as mileage increases?
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Sep 25, 2012 11:41
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Still looking at more modern Volvos, how about this 97 V70? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/carindale/cars/volvo-v70-genuine-7-seater-swap-/1001406252 Sounds like the ABS module and possibly rear main seal are gone, but the rest looks decent. Are there any other failure points on these? Are there any ways to fix a RMS leak without pulling the motor?
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Sep 28, 2012 04:17
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BrokenKnucklez posted:No your right. Just would be fun to get a nice little Volvo coupe. Maybe I will just hold out for a convertible to come along. Yeah, I'd go for it if you could the engine back together and it's a fresh teardown, and barring any major accident damage (salvage title?). I'd lowball him $1000, he posted in on the 26th of October, maybe he has pressure to get it out of the yard etc. if he's not moving on price I'd go no higher than 3k though.
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Nov 11, 2012 04:11
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