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Get the Euro Volvos like the 300- and 400-series into the OP too, and a mention about how Volvo Group/AB Volvo (the big rig/boat/plane group of companies) has been an unrelated company since they sold Volvo Cars to Ford in '99. OP needs more info for seriously-uninformed newcomers, who may not be from AI (we can gateway-drug them with Volvo). My favorite megathread OPs are the ones in Games for a specific title, they usually cover every angle someone could be coming in from. Good start with the model designation explanations. Problems section: the '00-'02 (I think) v70 transmission-killer stop/idle software thing from the old thread. The rest of it I oughta think about for a little while; I'm probably going to do my own important-poo poo scrape on the old thread, I want to save a lot of it for my own "Volvo Archive".
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Apr 15, 2010 20:46
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 Goddammit sell me these right now!  Waiting for a reply email.
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Apr 18, 2010 21:24
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as halfway crooks posted:I wish, the rivets on the tailgate lock itself have loosened and cause the lock mechanism (and thus the whole tailgate) to rattle back and forth 1mm or so. The kicker is that it's a $140ish part. Gonna hit a couple scrapyards tomorrow and see what I can dig up. Can you drill the rivets out and replace 'em with new rivets or bolts? Got a picture? Sviatoslav posted:I know around here a Volvo in a junkyard is kind of unseen.... every once and a while one appears. It really sucks for fixing your car on the cheap. My junkyard offer from the last thread is still open. We have two local yards with at least 30 Volvos, mostly 2/7/8/900 with a few late '90s v70s, a v40 and an early '00s v70. Anything you want, post it. I'll try to find it and it's yours for cost and shipping. You do take on the same risk as if you were in a junkyard with no middleman, ie I'll do my best to verify the item is intact and functional, but if you want a computer component, welp, I can verify that it looks good on the outside. I get a kick out of figuring out how to correctly disassemble stuff and I need more reasons to do it (and I always find things I need while I'm in there), plus I like helping out Volvo people. Sir Tonk is probably my best reference for this.
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Apr 19, 2010 05:49
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Money Walrus posted:If you ever happen to see a 740 with a blue plastic interior, I could use a few misc trim pieces. Just thought I'd throw it out there. Which pieces, what year, wagon or sedan? There's at least one blue interior early 740 sedan. Money Walrus posted:If you get those books off craigslist, scan em! I don't think there is a good set of 740 greenbooks scanned yet. Goddamned right I will. 
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Apr 19, 2010 08:23
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Mission successful: Greenbooks acquired. The great scan project begins as soon as the semester ends in early May. If anyone wants anything out of them beforehand, say something. Craigslist never works out for me. I feel like a million loving bucks.   
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Apr 20, 2010 05:37
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This next junkyard run is going to be a lot more pleasant than valve spring seats and a v40 turbo (read: a lot better hidden than the one on a 740). 
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Apr 22, 2010 21:08
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empty baggie posted:Yes, welcome to the world of 240 ownership. I've had five 240's in the past 15 years, and every one had the chronic rear light problem. Most that I see on the road also usually have one bulb out. It's a very common and seemingly unfixable problem. Did anyone ever come up with an aftermarket solution to the circuit boards failing? Seems like it's only going to get worse with age and it's not like people stop driving them, ever. two forty posted:My title came in the mail yesterday. First car I've ever officially owned, yay! It's not real without a photo. Let's see this figmentary car.
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Apr 23, 2010 05:25
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Crispulus posted:Actually, I really like the engine code idea. One idea I was floating around was the cover to the 164 Haynes book but its cross-section revealed the car to be the carburetter model and that just wouldn't be accurate in my case. I went looking around Internets trying to find the picture you speak of. I didn't find it yet, but I found this: http://www.amazon.com/Haynes-Classic-Cutaways-Publishing/dp/1844255700/ which looks like it might be pretty cool and a better resolution for tattoos if there's anything worth using in it. There's a 164 in it according to at least one review. Book Description: posted:This fascinating book features 100 of the classic trademark cutaway drawings that have appeared on the front covers of Haynes car manuals over the years. Each cutaway is presented across a double-page spread with accompanying text and specifications about the car in question. The book is lavishly produced and will make the perfect gift for any nostalgic car enthusiast. Cars covered present a complete cross-section of the industry from the 1950s to the 1980s, including sports cars such as the Porsche 911 and Jaguar E-type and sedans such as the Ford Cortina and Mini. And this http://www.amazon.com/NASA-Apollo-Owners-Workshop-Manual/dp/1844256839 
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Apr 23, 2010 |
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Apr 23, 2010 08:54
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trouser chili posted:So, anyone care to guess how much I'm going to be in to fix this? If the frame's good, you're in for not a whole drat lot. I wouldn't buy the radiator used, but other than that you're looking at maybe $200 in a junkyard. You might need new transmission oil cooler lines, and by your description of repairs it's not a turbo, right? That would make things more messy. If hoods are cheap enough in your yard, just get any color now and keep looking for black until it shows up, gently caress repainting one. e: haha dammit LloydDobler Which one is the hockey stick? The double sealed beam with a side marker and the L-shaped turn signal underneath? I got one of those ('89) and one of the kind with a side marker that works as a turn signal instead, and the fender comes in under it, and then a big block for a headlamp, plastic ('92). And the AC on my '89 is great.  VVVVVVV You are correct, sir. And the ABS is on the wrong side for a turbo, I think. VVVVVVVV Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Apr 23, 2010 |
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Apr 23, 2010 17:52
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LloydDobler posted:edit: No, the painted trim for the giant single headlight is shaped like a hockey stick. I probably should have just said giant single headlight. Well, in that case, not on the '89, but it is on the '92.
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Apr 23, 2010 18:06
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Near Fredericksburg, Virginia; hour south of DC. Here's some shots of my bricks.   Here's some of the v40 Sludgemobile.  We're finally into reassembly. I want to think it would take me less than a semester to do this if I had more than a 3-hour lab once a week to do it in. I lose half an hour on each end to setup and cleanup, and it's hard to talk my way into supervised time outside of class.
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Apr 24, 2010 19:54
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Casnorf posted:It's buckled up in the center. Like every last body panel on your Porsche amiright? Oh snap!
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Apr 25, 2010 04:01
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Sir Tonk posted:Oh and the speedo has started acting up again. Probably just need to open the diff and clean it up, but I've got an extra cluster in case it's not the sender and I need to replace the stock speedo. When my speedo went apeshit, it was actually the silicone wire-ends inside the plug at the dif that had rotted all to gently caress, and replacing them fixed everything. With this horrible rotten visual in mind I then replaced all the silicone wire-ends I could find in the rest of the plugs on the car, like the temperature sensor on the block, and found similar carnage at each one. They are supposed to be white, not brown or black, and if you poke them the silicone should resist, not let your probe in like you're sticking your dick in a wedge of gorgonzola.
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May 1, 2010 05:11
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I got a problem. My 1992 740 wagon's brake lights aren't lightin'. They've got good ground all the way to the harness under the front door sill, and the switch on the brake pedal works and has power. Here's the diagram I've got to work with: Trouble is, this diagram (for a 1990) has a wire into the switch and a wire out, and my switch has a pair of wires on the out side, coming off the bottom of 3/9. One wire goes to B like in the diagram, but the other goes straight into a purple block that looks like a relay, with five (six?) wires in the plug, above and to the left of the brake pedal. Also, the first wire does not run to A from B, most of the wires from B (including the relevant one) join the main wire trunk that heads to the right toward the center of the dash. The next place I want to go is probably 7/1, the Bulb Out sensor, because fffffuck of course  barring a multiple failure (like the wire from the sensor to the lamp) I'm losing power between the brake pedal and the Bulb Out sensor or it would be lighting up. Okay, I had back-burnered that idea until I verified that the brake pedal position switch was actually working (no power at that switch would mean the Bulb Out sensor doesn't do anything because there's not supposed to be power to the lights) and then forgot about it.Where's the Bulb Out sensor actually located? The greenbook lists it as being in the rear of the car by the wheelwell, but my power line for the brake appears to go straight from the lamp to the front of the car. Also, any idea what the purple block is? More on this adventure as it develops! edit: so the one on the relay block in the center console: only Bulb Out sensor or front Bulb Out sensor? edit 2: Ssssson of a bitch. I have to have the wrong Yellow/Red, the one in the harness isn't the one at the lamp. The rear Bulb Out sensor lists Yellow/Red coming out to the lamp from the sensor, I have to have it wrong. Thanks for giving me a place to type my way through it, AI. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 01:48 on May 3, 2010 |
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May 3, 2010 01:09
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On a related note, the Bulb Out light on my other 740 is on all the time, even with all the lights off. 
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May 3, 2010 08:41
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1998 v70 Owner's Manual: https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1998/1998_SV70/98sv70_000.htm Available from here: http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/community/Pages/yourvolvo.aspx which appears to offer a lot of other nice stuff as well, like a Maintenance Chart: https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1998/1998_maintenance/1998_all_maintenance.html and the complete specs at a glance: https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1998/1998_specs/1998_V70.html For every Volvo after 1964. In before LloydDobler
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May 4, 2010 04:34
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So, this car with the currently-hosed brake lights. When I bought it, I asked for them to get it a new Virginia inspection sticker; I figured this would force them to correct anything life-threatening I'd missed on my go-over. I go in to lay down the cash and it's got a fresh inspection sticker with a reciept and everything, seems kosher. Everything wraps up, money changes hands and things are signed, and as I go to leave with my new car, he hands me the bulbs and sockets for the reverse lights.  Apparently they couldn't get the reverse lights to light up, so the fix was to remove the sockets, and then it passed inspection.  I put off figuring it out because, well, wiring. This brake issue has me wondering if I'm going to have reverse lights too if I replace the Bulb Out sensor. Except, if the Bulb Out sensor wasn't passing any current, why're the taillights that come on when the headlights are on still working? And hazards and rear fogs still work, too. gently caress, suddenly tomorrow is less cut-and-dried.
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May 4, 2010 08:10
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LloydDobler posted:Dang I didn't mean to sound that cranky when I wrote that. You don't understand, my wife keeps driving one of them all the loving time, and when she's home it's dark and scary out. She broke the gas door off of mine yesterday.  My plan for today was to verify my connections, then jump the wires on each end of the sensor and see if the bulbs light up with the sensor out of the loop. I'm trying to approach this like I would a situation where I don't have another component readily available; partly because it's helping me to remember & relearn my electrical diagnosis skills, and partly because the Automotive teacher I respect the most constantly gives me a raft of poo poo about how just swapping in a new one and seeing if it works is the least edit: Welp, I'm a dipshit. The greenbook I've been working out of, unlike most of the others, is 760-only. There is no rear sensor, the thing I thought it could be runs to the gas tank. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 20:10 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 19:03
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Hey, guess what? It was the big red Bulb Out sensor on the relay block.  Brake lights are fine now.In other news, it turns out the PO bypassed the neutral safety switch badly, and some other fun poo poo. Long story short, I have reverse lights now too!
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May 5, 2010 03:16
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sbaldrick posted:That seems like a butt load of money even with the mileage and third row. Is the third row seat a real draw for people? I prefer to remove it so I can fit a full-sized spare and keep a handful of tools and useful stuff in the hidden hatch area. TheJeffers posted:OK, after busting my rear end all weekend to confirm that there's no intermixing of fluids happening between the oil/ATF/coolant, I'm also noticing that I'm getting bubbling/boiling in the coolant overflow tank after normal driving. Based on this, I'm guessing it's time to replace the head gasket, but I'm too tired/frustrated to think straight. If anyone wants to confirm/deny, I'd appreciate it. poo poo, one of mine did this the other day, didn't realize it could be a headgasket problem. I thought the headgasket symptom list was 1. Blown between two cylinders: compression loss in those two cylinders 2. Blown between a cylinder and an oil passage: oil loss, possibly compression loss in that cylinder 3. Blown between cylinder and a coolant passage: coolant loss, possible compression loss in that cylinder 4: Blown between a coolant passage and an oil passage: black poo poo in the coolant or oil that may be milky or will bubble (boil) when dripped onto a hot exhaust manifold 5: Blown to the outside from a cylinder, oil passage, or coolant passage: loss of relevant fluid or compression loss; feelable air movement (cylinder) or visible fluid Mine was in the driveway and had been running for about 5 minutes with the hood open; I chalked it up to the thermostat having opened recently before I shut the engine off and the reservoir filled up (from about half full) and overflowed over the next minute or so, losing maybe 1/2 a cup of coolant. I guess if the headgasket was blown between a cylinder and a coolant passage, you could get a lot of air into the coolant system? It just seems weird that it would be a problem after driving rather than during. e: LloydDobler posted:A pressure leak in it can cause overboiling after the water pump stops. Oh. Tell me more about how this works.
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May 10, 2010 05:52
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LloydDobler posted:Waste? I'd chuck any 240 over a cliff for 30 large. It's taking one for the team, now he can buy between 15 and 30 more 240s. Sviatoslav posted:electrical woes If all the individual components work, try the wiring between them for continuity and voltage drop. There should also be a coolant temp sensor in the radiator. I think the temp sensor in the block reports to the instrument cluster, ECU, and OBD, but the one in the radiator reports to the electric fan. Engine temp. vs. coolant temp. You can verify if the sensor for the fans works by jumping the connections to it and seeing if the fan kicks on (or the relay closes).
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May 13, 2010 18:45
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Cakefool posted:Thanks, but I read the whole of the thread. The last one too, your summary doesn't appear as far as I see. I think he meant the old thread, full of goodness.
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May 17, 2010 06:59
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Watermelon City posted:the feelings of gay abandon Volvos are famous for producing? Haha, I used to do that a lot delivering papers. [I wrote something cautionary here but gently caress sober messages]Sir Tonk posted:Hey Splizwarf, you going to the yard any time soon? Our pick-n-pulls are terrible around here, never found any Volvos before the late 90's. I also need a passenger side wiper arm while you're there. Thanks. Might be a run this weekend if the weather's beautiful. I'll see about a MAF and a good wiper arm (do you need perfect or perfectly functional? Cause I got two with a little rust spotting you can have for free from replacing mine). You want just one MAF or a couple? I've honestly worried about my MAF in the '89 sometimes but never gotten one from the junkyard because I have no way to test it short of putting it on the car, and I've always figured that's one of the parts that's probably going to be hosed on junkyard cars too, like dashboards and that sedan center taillight I failed to get intact for you. If you want some MAFs I'll certainly hook you up, just tossing some "buyer beware" in there and waiting for a response. Money Walrus, speaking of the junkyard, I found a blue interior 740 sedan... at the end of the day. Gonna go get you some goodies though. TheJeffers: a black interior has actually been surprisingly hard to find this month. They're all beige or red. Do you want the panel directly below the glovebox, or the one up underneath that covers the blower?netwerk23: workin' on it, same problem as for TheJeffers only sub "grey" for "beige or red". So much grey.  Re-reading your post I realized you might also be asking for the actual carpeting that covers the whole floor of the car and not just the individual floor mats I've been looking for, can you clarify?
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 09:37 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 09:26
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Xovaan posted:If you take a multimeter with you, I think the cars' respective manuals have a range of voltage readings which can tell you whether or not the MAF is malfunctioning. I thought the car had to be running for this to work, and I'd need an oscilliscope meter.
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May 19, 2010 21:20
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deratomicdog posted:Does anyone happen to have a spare columbia wheel in the Raleigh area? I hit a pothole this morning and cracked a rim. I am having some trouble finding a replacement nearby. e: maybe I can do my own research   Looks like it's from the 1998 to 2000 s70 only? There's a pair of s70s in the yard I'm hitting for Money Walrus, I'll see if they haven't been raped for rimzzz yet. It'll run I think $32 (and shipping, Raleigh's almost local but still a couple hours); it goes without saying that it's worth the money if it's pristine, but would you want one that's scuffed but functional? e2: holy poo poo, I like both of these, for opposite reasons: ("Volans" and a no-name, anybody know what that's called?)   I would paint the center sprocket of the second one so matte black oh god. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 06:17 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 06:05
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deratomicdog posted:edit: alright, looks like I've got a replacement lined up, thanks! Sweet.
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May 22, 2010 04:16
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I know someone who has fallen for the s40 recently and intends to purchase one used for under $10,000. Tell me what she's getting into, what to look out for, and if any years were Plague Years.
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May 25, 2010 09:20
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Overpriced Balloons posted:since it's a crimped joint, you have to replace the whole drive shaft. Somebody tell me about this. I am only familiar with the snap-ring-retained style. e: Sviatoslav posted:Dope! Looks like "Cetus", these? http://www.autopartsfair.com/volvo-wheels_rims/850-1997-oem_alloy_wheel_rims-aly70190u10.html ee: holy poo poo, what is going on here? http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/1762187247.html  
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 09:53 on May 28, 2010 |
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May 28, 2010 09:33
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deratomicdog posted:Does anyone know what would cause a flashing overdrive indicator light on a 95 volvo 850? It just suddenly started after I changed the air filter, which is a little strange. Maybe I jiggled the wrong wire? Means you got a code set that isn't CEL-worthy; it's still OBD1, right? Time to crack open the blinkenboxen.
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May 29, 2010 18:33
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rubbersoul posted:Awesome! #9 in the diagram above, it's a line lock or something I just have no idea what it's properly called. Part #1229350 "Hose Retainer" They'll be cheap, grab an extra or two.
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Jun 8, 2010 20:01
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TheJeffers posted:It's time to choose your own adventure with my 940's grille. I can't decide whether I like the eggcrate or standard grille better on my car, so you get to decide for me. What about the third option? My '92 turbo has a grill that's the vertical lines like the usual chrome one but blacked out like the eggcrate.
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Jun 15, 2010 00:13
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NOTinuyasha posted:Blower blown? So it only moves at all on High or it's quiet and works on everything but High?
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Jun 21, 2010 03:29
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That VCOA page posted:Special How to Drive a Model T class Holy poo poo holy poo poo. Well, that's only... a couple thousand miles. 
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Jun 23, 2010 08:07
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ch1mp posted:The inline Fuel pump on my 89 240 stopped turning off after the key is removed. It used to run for about 15 seconds after the key was removed and now it is constant. I am thinking this must be the fuel pressure regulator but I just wanted to check with you guys in case there is a more likely culprit or if someone has experienced this before. Any one familiar with this? :we need a Gas Fight emoticon: 82Daion posted:In a 240, when you switch on the key, the fuel pumps turn on for a short interval to prime the system, and then shut off. ch1mp, does your car still do this correctly?
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Jun 24, 2010 09:45
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ssh posted:Considering there's absolutely no friction for the hands or body.. and I can see a belt outline - I'd say, yeah, that's a fairly safe bet. Shush, you. Jeez.
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Jun 26, 2010 03:25
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ACID POLICE posted:I'm just trying to find what there is out there that I could realistically get and put in my 850. Comedy option: riced-out Honda VTEC. Sviatoslav posted:the head of the bolt is rounding. Penetrating oil, heat, then vicegrips, a pair you don't mind hitting with a hammer. And a hammer, a metal one, at least 2 pounds. 3 pounds is better. Put them on oriented so that you can hit the big side, not the side that springs open. Put them on so tight you're hoping you don't break the hinge. Oh, and a new bolt.
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Jun 27, 2010 10:47
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Sviatoslav posted:The problem is that its in here: Couldn't tell it was inside, my bad. Perspective is hard to figure out in that picture.
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Jun 27, 2010 20:53
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Martytoof posted:it threw a rod at the worst possible time imaginable, and I had to just scrap the entire thing because I literally didn't have time to worry about it. A story! 
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Jun 29, 2010 06:06
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TheJeffers posted:I know that very few people here care about Volvo's latest stuff, but Swedespeed and Automobile have both driven the new S60 and seemed to like it a lot. I'm just happy they seem to have risen to the challenge of producing a good car. This is interesting to me, at least. I eventually plan to take up the whole "Volvo sends you to Sweden to meet your new car and you drive it around Europe for a couple weeks" deal with an XC70. Good lookin' out.
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Jul 2, 2010 06:07
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Revvik posted:That might have been the cause, but any lowering done was not professional or likely even intentional. That is the ride height I bought it at, the rear sits a touch lower. The suspension needs a large injection of time and money. I think the simplest answer is to pull a rear off another 240 for ~$50 in a pick-and-pull, axles, axle tubes, and diff altogether. Pull the bolts that hold the axle tube to the rear arms, pull one axle, and zip the whole thing out the side; no need to gently caress with the suspension. Try to find one that's not leaking at the diff seal.
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Jul 8, 2010 05:12
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