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Splizwarf posted:Can you drill the rivets out and replace 'em with new rivets or bolts? Got a picture? If you ever happen to see a 740 with a blue plastic interior, I could use a few misc trim pieces. Just thought I'd throw it out there. If you get those books off craigslist, scan em! I don't think there is a good set of 740 greenbooks scanned yet.
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Apr 19, 2010 06:51
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Some people use RTV for the valve cover gasket, I just put a little in the corners of the #1 cam bearing. Some use copper spray for the headgasket, I don't. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are installed dry, and the oil pan should be installed dry as well. If you have clean, flat surfaces (make sure your head is flat) you really shouldn't need anything besides a bit of vasoline to push the oil seals in and perhaps some RTV for the valve cover gasket corners where it goes over the first bearing cap.
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Apr 19, 2010 23:20
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Splizwarf posted:Mission successful: Greenbooks acquired. The great scan project begins as soon as the semester ends in early May. If anyone wants anything out of them beforehand, say something. Dude, that's awesome. If you need help scanning, I bet some of us could pitch in. Oh, and for your junkyard run: I have a 1992 740 sedan, and I could use the door pull surround (sits in the door pull, surrounds the window switches) in blue plastic, I need a 1992 style window regulator and motor, the short black plastic trim piece that sits on the driver's fender, the shiftlock microswitch from inside the auto shifter boot, the mirror glass from the passenger side mirror. A 1992 style decor panel (fits between the rear taillights) would be cool. Also, if you ever see a bodykit on a 740 that looks like it is right out of the 1980s (you will know when you see it) let me know. Defiantly be willing to pay for all that if you ever come across it. The 740s in the New Orleans junkyard are always the old style. I never get any 92 sedans.
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Apr 20, 2010 07:30
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TheJeffers posted:OK, this 940 is just a bundle of headaches. Here's how the coolant tank ended up looking when I topped up the coolant a couple days back: Normally my thoughts would be radiator, since it's possible for the cooler to fail, but since you are losing coolant, you have one of two situations: 1) A coolant leak AND a bad integrated tranny cooler 2) A blown headgasket What I would do: Compression test Drain coolant, look at it Drain oil, look at it Watch smoke out of tailpipe (signs of blown HG) If you determine it's a blown gasket, it's really an easy and cheap job if you do it yourself. The hardest part is getting rusted exhaust manifold bolts off. You could do it in a weekend with 100 bucks in parts and some beer. You can reuse the headbolts, all you need is the upper gasket set and some new exhaust nuts. If the compression test looks good, and there is no coolant in the oil, and yet sludge in the coolant, I would drain and flush the coolant system, find your leak, (replace the radiator if that is indeed the problem), flush the ATF, and you should be good to go.
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May 5, 2010 01:41
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Xovaan posted:I just hacked away at my overpressure protection / overboost protection switch and turned it inward two full turns. I don't have a 20psi hand pump to test it, but theoretically if I only have a 12b in my car right now, I shouldn't really have to worry about blowing up my engine if my turbo is only really capable of like 10psi anyway, right? Well, are you running any sort of ECU modifications, knocksense, or a wideband controller? Those are pretty much required mods for turning up the boost- otherwise you risk detonation or worse. The turbo's peak efficieny range is something like 14.5 psi if I remember right (should be a TD05 housing), about any more than that and it's spinning in it's own hot air. I don't think you run much risk, but I like doing things the safe way (and paying out my rear end). I would say get a boost gauge (or a sticker to convert your stock one), a wideband (or a blinky narrowband if you are cheap as hell) and possibly knocksense. When messing with more boost, you really want to get a good idea of what is going on under the hood.
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May 14, 2010 00:41
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Splizwarf posted:
Awesome. If you want, you can have my old MAF- working fine, I just upgraded to a 3 inch 012 MAF so I have no use for it. I think I have two working MAFs - one from when my car was N/A and one from the smaller turbo.
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May 20, 2010 10:21
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ch1mp posted:On my 240 brake job I rounded the nuts and had to cut the foot-longish section of hard line with tin snips at each end and use a socket to remove the nuts. I would also suggest that you consider replacing the entire caliper as you will need to bleed the brakes after the repair. I had reinstalled the entire assembly and then snapped of both the bleed screws trying to back them out. I don't know how much heat you can put on the zerx due to the rubber piston seals in the caliper. I think the calipers are only like $20-30 new. I was replacing the soft flexible lines, and learned a fun fact- those copper nuts that are siezed on the hardline-> flex line connection need a proper flare wrench and tons of heat to get off without ruining everything. I ended up having to cut the soft rubber lines, heat the poo poo out of the fittings with a MAPP torch (fun fact #2, the soft rubber expands until it forms a seal and then violently explodes IN YOUR FACE) and wrench em off with expensive snap-on flare wrenches I borrowed from my friend. Now I'm rebuilding all the calipers before I put them back on with ceramic pads and new stainless steel flex lines. The brakes are already the jumbo version. I'm going to have a very nice pedal when I'm through (I hope). As far as B230FT oil goes, I personally use Mobil 1 10w 40, and have had nothing but good experiences. I'm running a huge turbo, an oil cooler, a remote filter, and an oil temp sensor, and temps are nice and low and the oil always comes out golden. Never sent it away to be analyzed tho. Edit: You can just rebuild the calipers (kit full of rubber seals is less than 20 bucks), push the piston out while it's hanging off the line by depressing the pedal a tiny bit, then once you take everything apart you can heat the caliper to it's heart's content to get the frozen bleed screws out. Money Walrus fucked around with this message at 04:06 on May 27, 2010 |
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May 27, 2010 04:03
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ch1mp posted:I was also wondering synthetic vs dino (extra cost is not a huge issue). I edited my above post, but I run synthetic simply because my car is a turbo car, and a little old (133k on a 1992 740), and I don't want dino oil coking up my hot turbo. Because my car is a performance volvo, I like to use the good stuff, but if your's is a N/A, I'd say 10w 30 dino, and if it's a turbo I'd run synthetic (possibly a higher weight if your car is old and you aren't in a cold area).
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May 27, 2010 04:24
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zenless posted:I'm at work but now i really want to see what comes up when one googles 'volvo porn'. 
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Jun 25, 2010 22:44
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Yea, struggle building boost and red hot turbo is def a sign of cat clogging. Pull that thing off and shine a light in it. I recommend a sawzall.
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Jul 3, 2010 05:45
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Anyone happen to have a spare distributor for a 1992 740 B230F? Non hall sensor. Managed to screw mine up today installing a new sexy swedish camshaft. Dumb mistake. I just need the actual dizzy, don't need a cap or rotor.
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Feb 27, 2011 23:19
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Splizwarf posted:How do I tell the difference before pulling the head off? I'd be glad to junkyard you one; I need some head parts anyway. With the ones with a hall sensor, there's a connector wired to the harness sticking off on the driver's side. With the non-hall sensor cars, you can look at the wire going to the top of the bellhousing and confirm it. That would be awesome, just lemme know!
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Feb 28, 2011 08:02
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Splizwarf posted:Money Walrus, I think I might actually have one in my parts bins, I'll know by the end of the night. Sweet, just lemme know. If not, I shall hit up the trogs at turbobricks.
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Mar 3, 2011 18:20
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Splizwarf posted:Bad mass air flow. Hey Splizwarf, got my hands on a junkyard dizzy, I'm all good. Stupid question: I'm having some trouble getting my brakes to bleed right, I'm using a power bleeder and doing them in the right order, tapping on lines and calipers to shake bubbles free, and I still can't get a firm pedal. I just noticed today there's two bleeder valves on the master cylinder, do they come into play at all? Car is a 1992 740 with ABS
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Mar 8, 2011 03:55
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Splizwarf posted:Oh goddammit. Talk about getting wrapped up in what I was doing. Sorry I didn't get back to you in time. Hey, no worries, we all get caught up in our stuff. Not a big deal. Yea, they are single big psiton in the front, 2 small in the back. I think since my car is 92 I got the big brake setup stock.
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Mar 8, 2011 14:09
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