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rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!

Click here for the full 768x1024 image.


This is the Volvo I need a bevy of positive feedback about to convince my pops to loan me $1100 to buy it, '87 240DL 5spd, heater works amazingly, interior is gorgeous and NO RUST. For some reason he does not believe this will be a reliable, efficient car that will be easy and cheap for me to service.

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rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!
I got a new Volvo (the one I was asking about earlier in the thread) Her name's Ellinor and she's a 1987 240DL w/ a 5speed and recently seizing a/c compressor.







rest of the set is here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jseifert/sets/72157623786217155/

How hard is it to replace the a/c compressor? I replaced the belts to no avail in terms of the squealing it was making and now I believe that's my only recourse...

also assorted other questions, what kind of brake pads do the rear emergency brakes take? Where can I get a new trunk lock? and how hard would it be to add cruise control to this beast?

rubbersoul fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Apr 29, 2010

rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!

Xovaan posted:

Just a random question:

Maybe I just suck at manual, but anybody ever have bad shuddering with the clutch if the car's not warmed up? Especially in reverse? Parking lots are an utter loving nightmare (and parallel parking is even worse) because the car will shudder so bad in reverse that it sometimes stalls outright.

My 240 does this even though the idle is set correctly (~900rpm) I've just taken to given it extra gas and letting the clutch slip more until it's warmed up.

rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!
I'm trying to replace the brake lines after one broke (hardline into the caliper) and everything is frozen solid and I'm twisting lines left and right, how in the poo poo does one remove frozen brake lines? Also my headlights won't work with the exception of my brights that don't stay on, and I'm already in $50 for the dip relay which didn't solve the issue. Somebody help, I want to love my 240 but it's being such a PITA I almost want to turn japanese.

rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!

ch1mp posted:

On my 240 brake job I rounded the nuts and had to cut the foot-longish section of hard line with tin snips at each end and use a socket to remove the nuts. I would also suggest that you consider replacing the entire caliper as you will need to bleed the brakes after the repair. I had reinstalled the entire assembly and then snapped of both the bleed screws trying to back them out. I don't know how much heat you can put on the zerx due to the rubber piston seals in the caliper. I think the calipers are only like $20-30 new.

I'm doing this and seeing the light at the end of the proportioning valve.

rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!
Does anybody know what the little clips that hold the brake lines into their brackets on 240s are called? I can't seem to find them anywhere for sale.

rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!

Xovaan posted:

You'll have to be more specific. There's tons of brackets that hold brake lines. If you can give me a general location I can get a part number for you, possibly.

It's the piece that holds the soft line to the hard line through the line brackets in in the front wheel wells, it's a collar with two tabs that you bend inward toward the line to keep them from falling though the bracket. They're present on both the strut and the body brackets at the connections. Specific enough I hope?

rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!

Xovaan posted:



Does this help? Sorry, I was in a hurry earlier so I couldn't link a schematic earlier. There's a lot of brackets that hold lines of various sizes so I figure this is easier. :)

Awesome! #9 in the diagram above, it's a line lock or something I just have no idea what it's properly called.

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rubbersoul
Oct 11, 2007
curse you mop toppers!
Does anybody have an idea of how to wire up a replacement headlight switch? I called the dealer in town but they don't make em anymore, so I figure I can just get by with a normal 10 amp on-off-on switch wired up to the appropriate connections.

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