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empty baggie posted:chronic rear light problem. After I dropped a taillight and broke a lens trying to clean the contacts for the millionth time last month, I took a gamble and spent the $120 for a set of knockoff Estonian lights. I wasn't expecting much but I have to say, they seem to be pretty well made. They definitely improve the look of the back end. We'll see how long they last, I guess. My title came in the mail yesterday. First car I've ever officially owned, yay!
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Apr 23, 2010 03:40
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ease posted:1993 940 8valve/na. Wife's radiator just blew up, literally plastic shattered. Just changed the water pump last week. Is there any kind of pressure release valve anywhere or on the reservoir cap? I'm pretty sure I didn't over fill it after doing the swap or anything, but I couldn't think of why it would just blow up like that. The cap should have a pressure release built in, I know that there are different colors for different pressures. I think the plastic radiators are known to break like that, so it may just be coincidental that it happened when it did. I don't know if your car has an electric fan or not, but on a 240 there is a plug and gasket that block a hole in the radiator for a temperature sensor on the upper right hand side. If your old radiator has the blocking plug, you'll want to get a new rubber gasket for it. Changing the radiator is pretty easy, you shouldn't have any problems if you can do a water pump.
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Apr 26, 2010 23:54
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keykey posted:^^ I saw that rubber plug reference but my car doesn't have it, apparently there were 2 different types of dashes for that year, I just happen to have the kind where I'm screwed. Volvo just wants to see their vehicles every so often to show they care.. Does your car have one of those pin and wire OBD sockets? There's a way to reset it with that on older cars (i.e. 1994 850.) OBD-2 was required starting in 1996 but there was some weirdness during the transitional years (i.e. my brother's 1995 has an OBD-2 socket and the pin diagnostic thing.)
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Apr 27, 2010 18:29
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rubbersoul posted:also assorted other questions, what kind of brake pads do the rear emergency brakes take? Where can I get a new trunk lock? and how hard would it be to add cruise control to this beast? Might want to hit the pick n pull for a trunk lock, I've rekeyed 3 different glove box locks to fit my key but I don't know how hard that would be with the trunk lock.
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Apr 29, 2010 23:07
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NOTinuyasha posted:What would cause the odometer on my 96 850 to just stop moving? Both the trip meter and the total meter, it doesn't even seem like they're trying to move. I know sort of exactly where it stopped, an area with really really lovely roads and some of the worst potholes I've hit in a while. The odometer drive gear is probably cracked or broken or something, it happens a lot to 850s. You can get a replacement gear for about $30, replacing it isn't too terribly difficult. It's kind of a pain to get the dash apart but it gets faster after you do it once. Volvospeed has instructions on how to get to the gauge cluster, I'd find the link but I'm feeling kind of lazy.
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May 1, 2010 08:31
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Splizwarf posted:light problems Well, if you really want to make it difficult for yourself, you could pop the cover off the bulb failure relay and bypass the coils and wire directly to the pins. I guess you could do this non-destructively but it would probably be easier to just gut the thing and solder in jumper wires. Inside the relay are some glass reed switches wrapped with enameled wire. The wires are in series with the power from the brake light pedal switch. As I recall, the logic there is that if both bulbs on either side of the car go on, the current draw between them will/should be equal, putting the reed in the middle of the glass envelope. If the draw isn't even, the reed switch will close and turn on the brake failure light. If you were to bypass all the junk in there, you would essentially have a blanking plug that would complete the circuit. Worst case scenario, you pick one up for a buck next time you go to the junkyard, but it would eliminate the failure relay as a point of failure. pants in my pants fucked around with this message at 01:23 on May 5, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 23:20
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sbaldrick posted:I'm pretty sure the US didn't get 5-speed 850's, Canada however did. We got 5-speed 850s in the USA, they're just uncommon. My father has a very nice 1994 850 5-speed sedan. I am fairly certain that turbo 850s were never offered with a manual in America, though. (unless the t5r or 850r or other overrated fruity wagon variants was 5-speed, too lazy to google since I don't care.)
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Jul 12, 2010 05:19
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Usually the paint code is on the metal data plate riveted to the inside of the fender in the engine compartment or top of a shock tower. It has stuff like the VIN, place of manufacture, etc listed on it. On an 850 I think it is on the left side of the car near the battery; I don't know if they changed it with the s/v cars. You can cross reference the number with the name listed at http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/paint_colour_codes.shtml to see if it sounds like you have the right code. Here's the owner's manual for the 99 s/v70: http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1999/1999_SV70/99sv70_000.htm It's for the US domestic model though, so it won't have any info on diesels in it. It's a start I guess, someone else can probably point you in the right direction. pants in my pants fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 20:51
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I finally installed my $120 set of craigslist Virgos on the 240. Man, they look sweet. 
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Aug 5, 2010 02:21
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ch1mp posted:So I just need to remove the shift boot. It seems to be clipped down through holes on the corners of the bottom of the boot, under the carpet. Does anyone know the procedure for removal? Please dont make me pull up the carpet. You mean the rubber bellows thing? As I recall, you lift the bottom bellow (closest to the floor) and pop the clips out. Here's what the clips look like. FYI, Bentley (page 430-3) says the "clearance from the detent plate to detent sleeve (shift lever) in 1st and 2nd gear = .5-1.5 mm" It also says to check it in both first and second gears. I can scan the whole page tomorrow if you don't have a copy.
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Aug 5, 2010 04:23
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Saw this on the Brickboard, thought you all would appreciate it. Can I have $16,000? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110582707114 Oh man it is so pretty.
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Sep 12, 2010 17:53
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I owned three 240s in my formative years and loved them more than any other car I ever owned or drove (c.f. username.) My last 240 was a 1993 on Virgos and in minty shape, but life changed and I had to sell it in 2011. Anyway, when I was at the junkyard years ago I found a stack of Greenbooks in a 1983 245 that the guy at the counter didn't care to charge me for. They're from earlier in the model run, there's a 1983 pre-delivery inspection book in there. I know there's a B21T manual, heater, AW55, emissions stuff, electrical, differential, and maybe some other manuals in there. Does anyone have a use for these? If so, they're yours for a flat-rate box price and whatever you feel like kicking in (or nothing, I don't care that much) but I just hate to throw them away. I'm moving and need to get rid of stuff like this. pants in my pants fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 07:42
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How's the kickdown cable looking? Is it installed and properly adjusted? I don't recall offhand how it should be set, if you can't find instructions via googling I'll check my Bentley manual and paraphrase it for you. Edit, didnt see its temperature related so it's probably not the cable.
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Aug 17, 2014 19:01
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How do you pop the front bumper chrome back into those little clips on the body on a 240? My car was missing the chrome when I bought it and I found a replacement at the yard. From my minimal dicking with it it seems like it'll be a real pain in the rear end to get everything lined up and snapped in. I know I've done it before, years ago, but I don't remember how. Do you just have to trial-and-error it or is there some trick?
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Aug 21, 2016 05:16
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americong posted:volvofriends, I have found myself with an '82 245 that I wish to daily drive The motor mounts on a 240 (at least a later one) are a big pain in the cock, I've done them twice but it was many years ago. Art Benstein has the best way to lift a 240 engine/tranny up using the world's most versatile item, Unistrut (wrap towels around the ends so you don't run into the overlap, then return it when you're done.)  I am better at car work now than years ago but i had to go buy a 12mm flex gear wrench at a 24 hour Autozone at midnight which made the job possible, so that might help. This was on a B230F though so maybe the B21 era is slightly different. I'd have a cheater pipe handy for the gear wrench too but as I recall they weren't on too tightly. Actually, this was an '84 (I think) 240 so his notes might be relevant to you. He goes further than you would in teardown to get to the oilpan (which is a pain x 10 to get back installed on a B230.) http://cleanflametrap.com/oilpan/ If you have any questions ask and I'll try to remember. You could also email him and he'd probably respond, he's the champ of 240 documentation.
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Sep 21, 2016 01:02
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My aunt and uncle had a V50 for about 8 years. They hold on to their cars for a long time but that car was a giant money sink neither of them particularly liked and they sold it and bought a new CR-V this summer. I've got my 240 dash in pieces for the infamous blower motor replacement. Holy cripes I hope I can get the drat thing back together and remember where everything goes. Art's cleanflametrap.com page is fairly helpful but this is a SRS car so it's slightly different. Another $85 into the car I paid $500 for.
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Dec 23, 2016 08:25
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Successfully completed the 240 blower motor and resistor replacement on 12/26. Then the battery died.
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Jan 13, 2017 02:01
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