|
Francis Baconator posted:Thanks for weighing in, Lloyd. I'll try replacing the tail light bulbs as a pair. The best way I can describe the noise I'm complaining about (not valve noise, etc) is that it seems like a soft clunk or thud that seems to have no discernable pattern, like something that isn't buttoned down securely. But I can't find a culprit so far. The exhaust seems fine, too. The timing belt was done with the water pump about 3k ago at a reputable shop with a receipt to prove it. I bought a '91 940 a number of years ago and did the usual - cleaned/checked the IAC, trap, throttle body, new plugs, wires. and a re-shim of the valve train. Still thought it was running worryingly loudly, and eventually took it to a local shop with a volvo master mechanic who gave it a once over and just raised his eyebrows at my comments about the general clatter and responded that it was probably some piston slap and probably was long missing the hushers. After replacing a ton of vacuum lines (which must have fixed a small leak or two) I decided it was running well enough to add the (silly) factory TURBO+ kit and have been pretty merciless with it. 150000km later it's still loud and tractor like, and I still kinda worry about it. I did have a weird clunking noise that appeared this winter and it turned out that the transmission mount bushing had turned into a collection of carbon-like pieces and was pretty much doing nothing other providing some surprisingly intermittent noise. It's one of those out of the way wear parts that might easily have missed replacement - just a thought. Fake Edit: Comedy Option #1 - buy this and ignore all noises via application of throttle and russian turbo parts!
|
#
¿
May 8, 2013 13:42
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 18:24 |
|
|
ExtremeODD posted:The lovely thing is that it was running just fine (well as good as it usually would) when I parked it and I was only away from it for about 10 mins. If I have the time tommorow Ill crawl underneath and check the voltage. Is it safe to assume with the key on II I should see some power? Or is it only while cranking/running? I believe you should see power at the pump at KOEO - and you should probably hear it come on briefly. Apply vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator with the return disconnected you should see a pretty high rate of flow and hear the pump running; with a gauge connected you should be seeing ~43psi at the rail. It does sounds like you might have had some long standing fuel pressure problems? I have a tiny pdf of the test/inspection process for fuel pressure for your car; let me know if you want it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2014 06:21
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:
I had an intermittent start issue and replaced the radio suppression thinger, the fuel pump relay a bunch of hoses cleaned the cap, rotor, checked the plugs, fuel pressure, the return, and checked pretty much every sensor and associated wiring.. To no effect. It only occurred to me later that the points were surprisingly lovely looking and that I should actually look at the spark and it was kinda lovely looking - I had eyed it earlier but outside in daylight its hard to really see it - ohm'd out the coil and oh. Weak coil - and weaker by far when hot. New coil and weird stumbles, start problems etc went away. I mean, it was probably a combination of well aged parts band leaky hoses too but the coil was the fix. Felt kinda stupid but the plugs looked fine, I swear! Easy to test and cheap to replace at least. Edit: the night thing is weird! Is it cold enough that your cold start injector is activated? I had one that was just pissing fuel around, making it rich as hell and would sometimes make starting impossible. Blitter fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Aug 2, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2014 23:08
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Are the R cars fairly reliable? I'm looking for a nice DD and saw this. Any glaring issues with these? There was a problem with the splines on the angle gear output shaft in 2004, for which an updated part was released. If it wasn't done, you run the risk of damaged splines or the mating surface, which would require a rebuild of the angle gear assembly (pricey!). I would find an independent Volvo place or perhaps a dealership to inspect it, check over the paperwork and maintenance history, and have the codes pulled to see if there are any problems that have been logged. I understand there can be problems with the automatic transmission, if it has been abused. I have a 2005 w/ the 6 speed, and it is a really nice car to drive, extremely comfortable, excellent ergonomics and spacious. I'm 6'4" and the seats/legroom are fantastic. Also, vroom! I would second the recommendation for a generous budget for upkeep as it isn't a cheap car for parts, or service (If you're not intent on diy). I usually wrench on my cars but had an independent replace some angle gear seals (and inspect things) because it seemed like a bad place to start messing with, so I chickened out, and have satisfied myself with brakes, various fluids and some motor mounts, and a Grom Bluetooth install.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2015 21:56
|
|
|
zundfolge posted:The P80 cars have a decent turning circle but the RWD Volvos have such a small one that just about anything else feels nautical by comparison. That's the one thing I miss about my 240-it made parallel parking incredibly easy. Going from my '91 940 to a '05 V70R was really kind of alarming; I have adjusted but initially any kind of tight parking lot seemed nearly impossible to deal with. It really is amazing how tightly the 940 can turn; a u turn happens between the lines of a 2 lane and I've turned it around with a 3 point on a single lane logging road. It's probably for the best in that it'll stop me from taking the R into places it really shouldn't go.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2015 19:13
|
|
|
Nuclear Pogostick posted:Welp, I am now the owner of a 1989 Volvo 240 wagon. The paint's kinda hosed up and the window trim has faded, but the previous owner replaced a lot of stuff so mechanically it's in excellent shape (I had a third party volvo specialist verify that everything was cool for a little bit of money, worth it for peace of mind IMO). It runs pretty solid and for a car its age it's got a fairly smooth and quiet ride. My one gripe about it is that it accelerates like a manatee on chloroform. I mean, I'm no hooner, I just drive a couple miles to my college most days, but it's a little annoying to floor it on the onramp to the highway and still be only going 45mph by the end of the ramp after having been previously going 25 on the local roads. I changed the aftermarket radio out for one that's new and has USB/Aux capability, wasn't too hard, all I needed was a butterknife and a screwdriver. Anything I should keep an eye out for? Hrmn. Somewhere around 111 hp, 136 lb-ft. Top speed: 175 km/h (109 mph) Acceleration: 0- 60 mph 11.3 s, 0- 100 km/h 12 s and that's before all the horses escape over time. When you floor it does it bog down some? Or just not do much more than half throttle? Still! There is probably some room for improvement, possibly easily. Here's a couple easy things to check: The throttle is actuated with a cable, and that cable stretches over time. Either get a buddy, or some useful object to hold the gas flat to the floor and see if the car is actually getting WOT.   You should hear the throttle position sensor make a click at WOT too; check the procedure in the VOLVOFAQ link below. If you feel like it, go and clean the throttle body too. You should probably inspect your spark situation; if your leads aren't obviously pretty new, consider replacing them; inspect your cap/rotor too. I'd strongly recommend checking the internal resistance of your coil - I got bitten on this in my 940 because I'd replaced it a year prior, and ended up chasing various other possibilities before determining that when hot, my 1 year old coil was being completely poo poo. While you're at all that crap, you might as well pull a plug and make sure it's gapped/not poo poo too. The other thing that might be worth checking is that your vacuum system isn't leaking from cracked hoses everywhere. If you have or can borrow a vacuum gauge, it takes a few minutes and replacing hoses is cheap, if kind of tedious. Some links: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Cleaning+1985+1986+1987+1988+Volvo+740+Throttle+Body/3869 http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/volvohome.htm (you want to read the Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars) I mean, the real answer is to put a B230FT engine (from a 940) but that would require going to an automatic, unless you can track down a M90 transmission (only offered on later EU only 940's), or can deal with modifying a T5 box. Actually, do this, and also get a manifold from the turbo bandit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-zhg2S5JI4, because we all want to, but are afraid of giving that russian dude money, or an address. Oh. You might consider tossing in a can of seafoam into the gas tank next time you fill it, along with premium gas; see if your injectors/whatnot get a bit of a clean. Blitter fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Jan 7, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2016 04:21
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:The B230FT isn't substantially different from the B23FT, which came in the 240 and 740 turbo models attached to an M46 or M47. Those will work too. Ah, I had thought with an '89 you'd have had the B230F to begin with, making the swap slightly easier? I keep wanting to change my 940 to a manual from the AW71, but the auto is nearly indestructible and people warn of tearing M46/7's to bits with the FT engine.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2016 15:35
|
|
|
shadowzero313 posted:Sometimes my 240 loses a lot of coolant while it sits, but other times it doesn't lose any. What's a cause of this interesting situation? My apologies if I'm missing something but are you talking about the fluid level in the reservoir varying? Or are you adding coolant and having, like, puddles?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2016 03:42
|
|
|
confonnit posted:My 02 v70 t5 is having throttle/acceleration problems. It mostly happens at low speeds/rpms when I back off the throttle and then get back into the gas, but the last week it has started happening at highway speed. Is it the TPS? Does this MY have some of the throttle body issues of the 99-01? Help! It could be.. So many things! You really want to pull the DTC codes with an obd2 reader; if I had to hazard a guess, it'd be a miss fire from an aging coil pack, or the TPS both of which will have codes associates with them. I would have thought the TPS failure would have thrown the CEL on tho. If you can, rent(?), beg or borrow an automotive scanner, or buy something like one of these and see if there are any stored codes? Blitter fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Jan 9, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2016 00:41
|
|
|
confonnit posted:Blitter gets a gold star! Ended up being two bad coil packs and fouled spark plugs. Woo! I was all sure that Zundfoldge had it with the ETM, and the model specific knowledge! obeyasia posted:I skimmed the thread, but I'm on mobile so search is not possible. I was a little bummed about the lack of bluetooth etc on my 2005 V70R, but was pretty sure something could be added - I ended up buying a Grom Audio box - gives me BT, a line in, two usb lines, and a handsfree mic. It looks like there are options for single and 6 disc players, in for both the 2005 and 2007+ V50's. The install is really simple, and for me it shows up on the factory deck as the 10 disc trunk mount CD changer (an option I didn't have). Steering wheel controls work, and the hands-free sounds good, and the mic works with all the phone for "OK google" stuff for nav and making calls. Actually, that is a lie, the install *should* be really simple. I was determined to have the USB and line-in coming into the center console storage which was not too bad, just .. nothing like trying to not break trim on a car you just bought, so you can drill holes and add grommets to things. I wanted the hands-free mic just above the rear view mirror - they recommend mounting it in the instrument cluster area, which just didn't appeal to me. I had to pull the line behind the instrument cluster, up the pillar, and through the edge of the headliner. After successfully feeding a wire from the drivers side of the dash to the back of the stereo in the middle, I got it stuck about halfway on the way back, and was contemplating having a piece of wire and a 1/8" mic jack rattling around my dash, or pulling the whole loving thing. Eventually it came free, and I got my tidy mic install. I also took the opportunity to remove the factory cup holder (part of the stereo pod) and replace it with a cubby that I amended with a cell phone holder; I needed to have the stereo out so if you're contemplating adding a mount, it might be worth doing at the same time - I hacked up a cheap Luxa "tablet mount" (because stupid giant phone didn't fit any phone holders at the time) but proclip, and a few others have some vehicle specific mounting stuff that seems decent. I absolutely love the sound of the factory stereo and the looks of the interior in my car, and with this, and a BT OBD2 unit it gets pretty close to the functionality of a more modern car, but without a touchscreen for everything. Really happy with the result. Blitter fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Jan 22, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2016 06:31
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:why would my '98 V70R go into reverse smoothly, back up a few feet, emit a resounding CLUNK from the drivetrain accompanied by a sharp jerk, and continue to back up smoothly like nothing happened, with no other symptoms Do you use the parking brake? When I got my R it was lovely at releasing, and ultimately the shoe bound up and the pad separated making a similar kind resulting noise/jerk. Just a random thought; don't know about your gen of r's but on the emergency brake shoes on my gen were known to degrade and fall apart like that.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2016 15:54
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:I was about to say the same thing. The symptoms described, I took it in and the emergency brake was in pieces...one of the components was wedged against the inner side of the disk which caused the binding/clunk. If you don't use the ebrake often or live in an area with a lot of salt/weather...the ebrake components tend to freeze up. I had intended to do them, and had already had shoes and a hardware replacement kit onhand - IPD sells them for ~10bux, and the volvo dealership wanted almost that much per spring iirc. Ended up needing to snip one of the old ones out, due to a)things being wratched and b) gently caress those tiny springs. Drum brake spoon tool was too big for the job, making it kinda a pain. I should add that I also could have stood to replace the expanders (partially seized with rust) but cleaned them up and reused because lazy/impatient.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2016 17:30
|
|
|
powderific posted:Can anyone tell me where this piece of plastic is supposed to mount? I found it while changing spark plugs and can't for the life of me figure out where it is supposed to attach. https://jonhustead.smugmug.com/Other/Photo-stream/i-znDV7jW Ah! I remember this thing; the detent clip goes on the strut tower bar?; uh like this:  I need to clean my engine bay 
Blitter fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Sep 12, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2016 04:34
|
|
|
Olivil posted:A friend is looking at this 1988 Volvo 740 turbo saloon. That looks like a pretty cool car! According to Bill Garland's Tranny Page that car would have came with the same AW71 4 speed automatic that the 940's in Canada all had, which makes me wonder which manual it has in it - it would (presumably) be either a m46 (4 speed with o/d) or m47 5 speed. My understanding is that both the clutches and the box will struggle to live for long behind a tuned B230FT, although the m46 is a bit sturdier? I am reading the "New clutch and driveshaft bearing" to mean "It makes more power than the clutch can hold, and turned it into smoke", so it might be prudent to look at dialing back the power a bit, at least until your buddy has gotten a better sense of how quickly he's going to lunch the tranny. So, uh, definitely get the extra transmission (and if it is the original auto, get all the bits if he has them; pedal box, etc etc). The AW71 is sturdy, if not really very fun. As far as the rear end goes, depending on the year of 940 it is probably the LSD variant which is sturdy and nice. I've been itching to do an auto->manual swap on my 940, but it seems like the kind of thing that I should do along with the motor (which refuses to die), and really what I want is the m90 (only sold in european 940T's god damnit I need to import one) or a T5 (requiring significant modification to the shift linkage and transmission casting). If it was me buying it I'd arrange to take it to a garage for a pre-purchase inspection, and get it up on a hoist to see exactly what it looks like underneath because "chassis has been rust proof and stiffened" makes me wonder what is going on down there. Also, have them look at the diff fluid, and as he only describes replacing the head, I would want a compression test on that block too, alongside whatever else a local mechanic wants to check out. Sure, it'll cost a few bucks, but there is almost always something revealed that needs to be done that usually helps bring the price down enough to compensate for the inspection cost. I think there are some possible red flags with this swap, but if it appears to be worked on competently it should be a pretty cool ride.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2016 20:47
|
|
|
I would have went with coil too, but if there was corrosion on the lead from coil to the distributor, I would strongly suspect that wire is toast. Are they of unknown vintage? Is the spark good? If it is I'd want to check fuel rail pressure and make sure the fuel pressure regulator is working correct; in my 940 the failure mode is to just bleed off fuel pressure. Fuel pump relay would be worth checking; I don't have any reference stuff handy but it's probably a direct swap with other relays; iirc it's the fan relay for that model? Failing all that the crank sensor? Radio suppression ? Don't even know if your 740 has those, but I'm pretty sure anything injector or sensor related would have set a code. Good luck; winter wrenching sucks, but those are all pretty quick to check!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 15, 2016 05:40
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:
I don't know anything about 164's or their coil specs but yeah, you can check the internal resistance of the coil. I should mention I had a bad coil that read as fine when cold, but one the engine bay was up to temp it was poo poo.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2017 17:52
|
|
|
rarbatrol posted:Yeah, there's a couple of those on IPD for a range of models, but strangely not the v50. That's weird; I thought IPD was reselling the Grom stuff; Grom usb for 2005 premium stereos seems to be available on their website. Been really happy with the BT/handsfree/linein/usb features in my 2005 v70R, except I need to open the dash up to change my micro usb to type C.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2017 05:30
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:Then for glory it is! My friends kids yell "land yacht, land yacht" and cackle along with their mom as I try to plot the appropriate series of large radius curves into a spot in parking lots. I go back and forth between driving it and a '91 940 which has a incredibly tight turning radius; 32' vs 43'(!!) for the R. I seriously love the 2005 V70R (with 6mt) I put a ton of miles on it in the last two years and it's such a comfortable and enjoyable car to be in. Pretty much peak ergonomic design, and adding a grom Bluetooth/handsfree that integrates with the excellent stereo, and a bluetooth obd2 scanner + torque gets me all the tech I want, without giving up buttons and nobs. It also can be driven amazing hard and with the adjustable suspension, brembos and anti-squat it's hilariously capable. And after diving into and howling around a clover leaf in advanced, you relax, put it in comfort and cruise along, as if you were definitely not hooning 10s ago. Get the R!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 24, 2018 17:43
|
|
|
I expect you have an underperforming coil. If you don't have a scanner, there's no point in shuffling the coil around and see the misfire move - it's probably just one (4) with 5 settings the misfire fault due to 4's issue. I had that happen to me the other week couple hours from home in the evening, and was lucky to catch a local Volvo shop as they were closing. Fault on 2 and 4, turned out to be just 4. I should really replace them all (and change the plugs too). Anyone have opinions on coils for an '05 R, cause I put some random non-bosch part and feel bad about it.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2018 06:57
|
|
|
Nohearum posted:I've been looking to purchase a C30...I hope this isn't a common thing with these cars. I'm not saying a piece of laminated curved glass *wouldn't* self destruct in the cold but if it was a common issue no one in Canada would have rear windows. -38C air temp again this morning; window intact!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2019 17:48
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:RIP me. I had a leak develop where the angle gear casing splits and weirdly went away after a retorq. I hope you have a similarly easy fix!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2021 00:07
|
|
|
That's pretty cool! The rear fog lights on my V70R surprised me by only lighting the drivers side rear - where my 940 lights both. I thought something was broken, but the tail-light housing just has a conductive segment that is clipped to eliminate one light from the factory. Last time i replaced a bulb, I soldered the segment together so I could have both rear fogs, which is probably not legal in the EU but I don't think there are any regulations for rear fogs in North America?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2022 23:36
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:
Saw one in person last summer at my local independent volvo shop:  It really is a great colour - I am ok with the dark grey of mine - hides dirt better than black.  Edit: Now that I see them together, I'm not sure that's the same colour?! It could be my stupid phone; it does look kinda darker than I recall? Blitter fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Feb 12, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2023 02:30
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 18:24 |
|
|
Weird. https://gromaudio.com lists a bunch of model variants for 2007-2013 including S60's C70's and V50's etc but not specifically XC70's. You might want to ask/email their support; they seem pretty competent. I have put two in different Volvo's and have been pretty happy with it. Wheel integration is great and they're easy to wire in, and handsfree mic is reported as pretty good. The grom in combo with an odblink mx / torque really gives me all the integration I want. I mean, it's not like my evap pump leak code has had my CEL on or anything. No way that it's enabling me to ignore it and just check for other additional faults every now and then..
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2024 04:30
|
|