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rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
I've been doing some research but I'm not finding a whole lot - what's the difference between a platinum edition 850 and a T-5R? Is it just the paint and tune?

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rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
Totally agree, but I guess I'll just have to deal with metallic white. Life's tough, y'know?

SeedyRom posted:

I believe the tune is the same. The T5-R was only made in 1995 and delivers 240hp. The R models are from 1996 and 1997 and have the same power output. The platinum only makes 222hp like the regular 850 Turbos. This can be fixed by ecu swap or tune. Also, T-5R/R had suede seats and the platinum did not. Other than that, they are the same.
The platinum edition is also pretty rare. There are only 1.500 sold.
I found this on the 850's wiki page. I'll save you some time and link you directly to the source from wiki. Link: http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1993-to-1997-volvo-850-7.htm .


Edit: fixes in bold

God help me.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
I bought this here wagon over the summer:


Babby's first upgrade. More to come, eventually.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Shai-Hulud posted:

I just hab a wonderful drive home after my exhaust split open right at the catalytic converter. God what a sound when the exhaust stops unmuffled directly under your seat. My ears are still ringing. Lets hope i can jury rig something together tomorrow that works until i can afford to pay someone to weld it back together :/

Oh man, I had that happen to my 850 recently. The rear exhaust hangar had broken, so the wobbling with every bump eventually cracked it open. When I got it fixed, I had a bunch of other small repairs done that the previous owner had neglected... So I'm guessing the welding work was about $150-200.

And then I bought a new exhaust for the hell of it.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

CopRock posted:

Driving home from work yesterday, a dude passed me in a C30, and now I'm obsessed. It's one of the coolest looking cars I've seen in years. What kind of man gets a chub for a Volvo ?

This guy.

This guy too. If I didn't already have an 850, I'd have a c30.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
I do believe it's a render.

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/05/05/koenigsegg-engineer-building-modern-day-volvo-p1800/

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
Took my 850 to the mechanic today and they told me they noticed a coolant smell in the cabin. Somehow I hadn't noticed that before, but yeah it's there. So anyway, the heater core change doesn't look that bad, especially compared to the 240. If I pull everything open, can I expect to notice any moisture or residue if it actually has been leaking?

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
Platinum is such a pretty color. :unsmith:


Replacement heater core is going in this weekend.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
Last weekend I went to get some extra coolant for replacing my heater core. On the way back, my car started overheating (good thing I had a gallon of coolant). Turns out the heater core finally gave up the ghost and started leaking hardcore. Fun fact: some 850s have amplifiers wedged right up next to the heater core.

But now my heat smells like fresh car parts instead of maple syrup!

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
So a couple weeks ago a deer ran into the side of my car on a highway:



Insurance told me that it's totaled, mainly due to the parts/labor involved with replacing the rear quarter panel. I asked them to valuate the car again, since they treated it as a standard, good-condition, 90,000-mile 850 turbo. I'm hoping that being a platinum edition 850 is special enough to actually be worth more than the repair bill. Do any of you guys have an idea? It was initially estimated at about $4100.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Oxphocker posted:

That seems like a lot for a 1/4 panel but it looks like the door is dented as well... Depends on what the parts would go for..

Well there's damage to both doors (there's blood where its head hit), the rear quarter panel, the tail light, and some of the plastic trim on the other side of the massive dent. I was told that the panel will be a bitch to remove, and that the state of everything behind it is completely unknown. The repair estimate was in the upper $3600 range I think. Factoring in the deductible, that's a total loss. I'm crossing my fingers that it's worth at least 1000 more than their first guess.

rarbatrol fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jun 11, 2012

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

rarbatrol posted:

So a couple weeks ago a deer ran into the side of my car on a highway:



Insurance told me that it's totaled, mainly due to the parts/labor involved with replacing the rear quarter panel. I asked them to valuate the car again, since they treated it as a standard, good-condition, 90,000-mile 850 turbo. I'm hoping that being a platinum edition 850 is special enough to actually be worth more than the repair bill. Do any of you guys have an idea? It was initially estimated at about $4100.

Just wanted to give an update: the new value estimate is $5500 so it's no longer totaled.


BOOYAH

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Dave Inc. posted:

I've just had an issue crop up on my '06 S40 T5. My turbo by-pass is killing the boost at 3500rpm without fail. It was one of those "Did something just happen" issues a few weeks back but now it's all the time.

I get on the throttle, 50% / WOT whatever, and I'll hear the turbo spool up and as soon as it gets to around 3500 rpm I hear "pooooof" and the boost is gone and will only sometimes come back on in that gear. If I up-shift the boost will come back on but die again at 3500 rpm.

This is my first turbo car so I don't know what the gently caress. Though I'm sure this is a common issue I thought this would be a great first place to ask.

Here's an image from scan tool:


The boost builds and then drops off to something like .1 or .2 bar while still being at WOT. This chart also shows that, at peak boost, I'm making 1.2 bar or 17psi boost which is waaaaaay too high.

Every time I see people ask about boost problems, there are two immediate recommendations: check for pressure leaks, and double check the wastegate setting.

Can you actually feel the boost kicking in? The ECU has a certain power goal, and will actuate the turbo control valve to get there. If all the pressure isn't actually getting to the engine, it would make sense that it tries to build more to compensate... maybe?

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
Would any of you guys know where the radio antenna is located on an 850 wagon? Since I got it back from the repair shop, I haven't been able to pick up any signals.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
That would make a lot of sense, since they replaced the panel around that window. Thanks.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Terrible Robot posted:

I'm going to go look at and probably buy a 1996 850 Turbo wagon this Thursday. It's got 180,000 miles on it, but from what I can tell in pictures has been very well cared for. Just wondering what areas I should look hard at once I see it in person, any tell-tale problem signs, stuff of that nature.

Excluding stuff from the OP, this link might help: http://www.ipdusa.com/blogs/105/top-10-most-common-problems-with-1993-2000-850-c70-s70-and-v70-models

From personal experience, the heater core will (it's only a matter of time, due to how it was designed) eventually start seeping from the plastic end caps. Signs include a foggy, slightly sticky film on the inside of the window, and a scent of coolant when running the heat. It might also actually fog up the window if the glass it cold.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Terrible Robot posted:

Talked to the guy a bit about the car (850 turbo), he said he has no idea when the timing belt was done last since he hasn't owned the car very long himself, and that he "adjusted the rod (I'm assuming he means the waste-gate actuator) to turn down the boost". Should I be worried? How big of a job is the timing belt on these? I've done one on an old FWD Celica and a Honda Accord before, is it any more difficult than the average transverse engine? I really want to get this car but don't want to get hosed on repairs either.

As for the wastegate, it should be fairly easy to adjust. There's a video on IPD on how to do it with their wastegate adjustment tool (a hose).

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
So my 850 has started making a light grinding noise in the 2.5k+ range in first gear, usually right before it shifts.
1. How bad is this?
2. Would this end up being a repair or a large part (transmission) replacement?

I'm aware that Volvo instructed people not to change the transmission fluid on these cars, so I'm only surprised that this is happening relatively early at 98,000 miles.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
So in an 850 there's a panel at the top of the driver's side footwell, which has three mounting points up near the steering column. The surrounding plastic for all but one of these has snapped loose on my car, and I'm puzzling on how to remove this upper part without having to pull out the whole dash. I can find a ton of instructions for removing the top of the dash, or the whole dash, but nothing for the lower half of it. Is that even possible?

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

zundfolge posted:

If you're talking about the kick panel, just take those three screws out and pull down on it. It should pop right out.


I'm talking about what those screws thread into. I'd like to remove that so I can glue the brittle plastic back together and add some reinforcement.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

zundfolge posted:

It's not a separate piece-you'd have to pull the whole dash or do the reinforcement in situ.

If you're close to it and it's the right color, there's a guy on Turbobricks that has an NOS dash frame for cheap. If you're pulling the dash anyway it would be a lot less work than trying to fix the old one.

Yeaaahhhh, that's what I suspected. I'm probably just going to do the repair in place. There's a good chance it's ABS so I can just weld more plastic on top of the broken stuff.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Valfar posted:

Gotten myself a Volvo! It's a 1996 850 with 290.000 km. It has been maintained really well, and have had pretty much all servicing done at a Volvo dealership. Last big service was at 225k, where they changed the timing belt and water pump. No rust, and everything seems to work.

It has the boring 2 liter engine (that I'm pretty sure you didn't even get in the US?), but since I live in Norway, and I'm currently studying, it has a nice impact on the insurance, and the car itself was fairly cheap.

There's a few things that need to be done, but nothing critical. The ignition switch have to be replaced, dimmer switch for the instrument panel isn't working properly (just going to bypass it), and the breaks should probably be done fairly soon. I'm also going to change the oil and filters.


Good to see that your carpet hasn't completely gone pink yet. That seems to happen to the tan carpet with enough sunlight.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

netwerk23 posted:

Looks great! Now get some Forever Black on that rear trim. I've been using it on mine for years and I love it.

On that subject - I have a platinum 850, so I assume my trim was originally a lighter gray instead of black. It's faded unevenly and looks kind of strange. Do you guys have any recommendations for products to restore the color?

rarbatrol fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jul 26, 2013

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

zundfolge posted:

IPD sells a dye called "Showroom New" that seems to do a pretty good job. I haven't used it myself, but I found this before and after pic someone took while applying it to their 850:

Ah yes, IPD, of course. I'll check it out, thanks.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Oxphocker posted:

Anyone have an issue where the knee bolster starts coming down from the lower dash because the screw/tabs holding it in place are busted? The bolster itself still looks in good shape but the slots for the tabs are totally gone. What part would I be looking for....is it the whole dash piece or just that lower part (does it come in two parts?)

Anyone have an idea what that part would cost? It's a grey interior for a 98 V70R. Would I be better off trying to get this through the dealer or elsewhere?

I recently took a wad of JBWeld plastic weld and put it on top of the cracked plastic tabs down there on mine. They were hanging only by the vinyl(?) skin. So far, so good.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

hedgegnome posted:

Oh god I did something and Ive no idea what.
A few days ago, I replaced the heater core on my 97 850 T5R wagon. Ive done a heater core in another 850 before, and everything went fine. This time.. everything seemed fine! Pulled out the old one, cleaned up the coolant from under the carpet, put in the new one, filled it up, took it for a drive round the hood.. great! Worked fine! Only odd thing was it smelled. Kind of had that 'newly fired up heater' burning smell. I figured it was just cause it was new, and it would go away.
So. Today, i drive to work. After about 45 minutes of driving, after I get off the highway, I notice steam coming from under the hood. poo poo. Then the low coolant light comes on. I get to work, open it up, and theres coolant all over the area roughly around where the coolant lines go through the firewall to the core. No obvious spraying or anything, just a fine coating from what looks like condensed steam.

I guess.

Never overheated or anything, temp stayed solid. I did have some slight fog on the inside of the windshield..
So, I drove it home, and same thing, a bunch of steam by the time I got it home. It was dark, so I couldnt really tell what was going on.
So what the hell? Could I have done something wrong? Could the heater core be screwed up? Far as I could tell, it was working.. I had heat, and diddnt smell coolant anymore. Although, there was a faint aroma of it I assumed was left over from the previous core. I checked under the core, its not leaking.

Why would I be getting steam? The old one just stank, fogged up my windshield and barfed coolant under my carpet. Never steamed or anything like this.. ideas?

So... if I'm not mistaken, the coupling for the heater core tubes at the firewall is made of plastic, and can get just as brittle as the heater cores do. If you weren't especially gentle with the replacement, it could have cracked and would be leaking on either/both sides of the firewall.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
Here's that Concept XC Coupe in the flesh, for those of you who remember the illustrations from earlier in this thread: http://www.caranddriver.com/news/volvo-concept-xc-coupe-photos-and-info-news

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Terrible Robot posted:

I really want to repaint my wagon in R yellow but I would feel like an rear end in a top hat unless I got all the other R bits to go with it. This beige-silver has got to loving go though.

If you don't want to feel like an rear end in a top hat, maybe you could go for a different obscure color like autumn gold? That's probably my favorite behind the yellow.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

LloydDobler posted:

Someone didn't follow my C70 build thread. I cannot recommend ARD, especially for an ME7 manual swap.

The problem is that when they do something right they're great, but if they do something wrong they gently caress you in the rear end and say "god bless you" while doing it.


*Didn't mean to sound egotistical, there's no harm in not following my build thread, I don't follow everyone's builds either.

Yeah, from what I've gathered their ME4.3/4.4 stuff works well, at least for the lower-level tunes.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

atomicthumbs posted:

that all's good to know.

in terms of the PCV system, is the examination basically "ask if it's been done, or check a hose for crud"?

also is there a good place for 98-00 S/V70 year by year changes? because nobody seems to talk about them in exact terms. it's all like generic "engine improvements" and so on.

edit: those delaminating door panels tho

IIRC if the PCV system is really bad there will be smoke/air pressure coming out of the dipstick tube while running after it has been driven a little bit. If you go take a test drive that would be an easy thing to check for.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
All I know is the turbo is pretty awkward to reach with my short arms.

Speaking of platinum wagons,


If I wanted to freshen up my front suspension, what are good items to start with?

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

confonnit posted:

I've been chasing a suspension bug on my 02 v70 t5 that occasionally pops up as an intense shaking/shuddering when accelerating past 65mph or braking from similar speeds. So far I've changed both front axles and struts and strut mounts and plan on doing the rotors next. Yesterday after ~30 minute drive an "anti-skid service required" message popped up along with the traction light. The same thing happened this morning after the exact same drive. Anyone have any experience with this? I know the light can mean just about anything suspension related but I'm hoping that it could just be a sensor that wasn't properly attached after the last round of work on Monday. I know the obvious answer is take it to a mechanic but that requires me taking a day off from work which I can't do right now. Any input or help would be much appreciated.

I've had something similar happen to me, and it was one of my brakes partially locking up and gently rubbing the entire time I was driving, causing everything to heat up like crazy.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
So I've noticed some light clunking when driving over speed bumps and while turning sharply. What are good places to check for wear on an 850? Sway bar end links, tie rod ends, other things with rubber bits?

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

Terrible Robot posted:

Upper strut mounts and ball joints as well, but it's more than likely your sway bar endlinks and/or balljoints, the P80 chews both of those parts up for some reason.

That doesn't sound too bad, thanks.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

skylineboy08 posted:

RE: used 850s and by extension P80s in general (trigger warning: opinions and personal experience)

Checklist:

(words)

Also, the heater cores can get brittle over time and start to seep. You'll maybe notice a faint smell of coolant or a fog coming out of the vents after the car has run for a while. Makes a sticky film on the glass.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

zundfolge posted:

It's a thousand times easier than replacing a 240 heater core. All you have to do is drain the coolant, take off the panels on the bottom of the dash, R&R the core, and put the dash back together. The only difficult part is putting the core back into the heater box without bending the fins. I've found that it helps to take the evaporator drain tube off the nipple it connects to on the floor-it gives you a few more inches of clearance when you're trying to get everything lined up.

My 850 had the stereo amp bolted in somewhere back there, and it took me a solid half hour to get it back in because of how little clearance there was. Apparently they only did that for certain trims, like platinum and cross country.

skylineboy08 posted:

Maybe that's why my windshield is always filmy. It doesn't smell sweet inside like its leaking and there's no loss of coolant though.

It starts really slow, but at some point you will start loosing a more noticeable amount of coolant. Could be quite a while. I noticed a film shortly after I bought my car, but the smell didn't happen for a year and a half.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

wtftastic posted:

First time poster, long time volvo fan.

I've got a 1996 volvo 850 (not turbo, automatic) and it needs some TLC and I am a poor, so I was wondering if I could get some advice here. The car has a slow battery drain and has had one for several years. I don't use the car as a daily driver because I walk or bus to work and live in a small town, so car trips are 2-3 time a week (with occasional longer trips). I've tried looking for the drain on the main fuse box, and seen didly. Is there another fuse box I haven't noticed elsewhere in the car? I've been told to start the car and just sit in it for 10-15 minutes a day, but that's such a waste of money it feels criminal.


On my 850, the glove box switch was a little loose and left the light inside of it on constantly. So... that's worth checking. You could either fix the switch or probably remove the light bulb. Edit: or be like me and close a napkin in the door.

rarbatrol fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Apr 7, 2015

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.
Quick question: does a spoiler on an 850 wagon improve fuel economy? Does it help to deflect mist in wet conditions? I do a lot of highway driving, and have been wondering if it's worth it.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

atomicthumbs posted:

it makes it look cool

Right but I'm trying to build up a nice pile of excuses to justify the cost to myself. I'm expecting everything, paint job in particular, to be not cheap.

rarbatrol fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Apr 5, 2016

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rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

atomicthumbs posted:

how often do you go up against the 147 mph speed limiter

Terrible Robot posted:

Yeah the 855 spoiler does nothing but look cool, I think it actually made the spray on the back window even worse on mine. If you're worried about paint costs just call around junkyards until you find one that matches your car already. They are super simple to install too, it's like 4 torx screws and a few minutes time.

That's kind of what I expected to hear. It's a platinum edition so I doubt I'm going to find one in a junkyard... and I don't think any came from the factory with a spoiler? Still definitely on my to-do list, but I think it got bumped down a little bit.

zundfolge posted:

Just make sure to buy one with the brackets. They aren't available from the dealer any more and finding a set that isn't being sold with a spoiler is nearly impossible.

That's really good to know, thanks.

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