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Here's the best site for 7/9 series for maintenance tips you will ever find, pretty much ever. Most of it applies to 86+ 240's as well considering they share the same engine and computers: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/FAQSummary1.htm here's mine  but really here's mine  Click here for the full 850x567 image.  Click here for the full 800x461 image. list of mods (and by mods I mean current problems): -Valve silencer eaten so now car sounds like sewing machine -Car needs a minute to warm up after driving or it will putter out and die -Turbocharger whistles and putters sometimes -Smells like oil when I accelerate on a cold start -Car jerks if I go past 4000RPM with more than 10psi -It's a Volvo
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Apr 15, 2010 10:42
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TheShedDweller posted:Buddy of mine had this issue with his 83 242 turbo until he replaced one one of the fuel pumps with a walbro unit. I believe it was the inline pump, but it's been a couple years. So if I am doing a '94 B230FT swap (and LH cars of this year only had a single in-tank pump I believe), is it better to replace the pump with a Walbro or go for the same LH setup as the 9 series had that this engine came out of?
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Apr 15, 2010 20:40
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82Daion posted:You're right-the B21/B23/B230 8V redblocks aren't interference. All a timing belt break will do is leave you stranded. As for the other 2-series issues, the main ones are the "biodegradable" wiring harnesses in the pre-'88 models (especially turbos), and the flame trap. You should paint your airdam / front spoiler the same color as your car! It will look awesome.  Glad to see the car (sort of) runs. I'm 95% here with this swap. At this point, it's a matter of waiting until the 19th when my gasket sets come in and doing a full engine rebuild, removing the old engine and the system, putting the accessories onto the new engine, and bolting everything up. At least in theory. 
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Apr 15, 2010 21:23
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Got one from sbabbs on tbricks otherwise I'd totally snag yours. Wiring for me should be really easy. My only question really is what I should do for the fuel delivery system. What's the best way to deal with fuel pumps if I am to replace them anyway?
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Apr 15, 2010 22:06
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82Daion posted:I need to get some paint mixed to do the hood, so I might factor in some extra to paint the airdam. I kind of like the black-bumper look, though. v I think it would look good with that flat black hood (maybe even get chalkboard paint so you can draw on it?) and hood pins.  Ultimately for my car I wanna get a single-rounds headlight setup and orange or clear tail lamps then paint the airdam silver. But first things first is this engine swap. I'm so close it hurts. 
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Apr 16, 2010 12:17
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What caulking / silicone / whatever will I need to install the IPD oil pan and head gasket complete kits on a B230FT?
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Apr 19, 2010 22:00
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My friend's '75 245 threw a rod so I'm making an emergency junkyard run to San Ysidro tomorrow. Pics of the carnage:  But it's okay, because here is his 9xx sitting right now:  ...except it keeps losing compression after it turns off, likely from bad lifters? Maybe? When it runs it runs fine, but randomly the cylinders will, well, uh, lose compression. (16v + 19T) Now my question... what do the circled connectors do on this LH2.4 wiring harness? (going to be mating to the '94 B230FT      From turbobricks... quote:The gray one mates with the engine harness, the white (9-pin) with the interior harness (dash), and the black 6-pin with the fuel injection relay. Can anybody confirm this?
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Apr 26, 2010 09:18
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I'm pretty loopy from having four impacted wisdom teeth extracted, but I was wondering if anybody could tell me if I need to change my ignition coil if I'm moving from my old '84 ignition to EZK.
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May 3, 2010 21:51
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Aww, well, at least it's in a Volvo's natural habitat now. It's better off that way.
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May 9, 2010 08:18
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I just hacked away at my overpressure protection / overboost protection switch and turned it inward two full turns. I don't have a 20psi hand pump to test it, but theoretically if I only have a 12b in my car right now, I shouldn't really have to worry about blowing up my engine if my turbo is only really capable of like 10psi anyway, right?
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May 13, 2010 20:38
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I have an aftermarket boost gauge and some lovely LED narrowband blinky gauge right now. After doing testing, I can hit 10psi @ 4500-5000 with no fuel cutout so things are looking good. I haven't witnessed a boost spike yet though. But honestly I don't care if the engine blows up because at this point the only thing I need to completely swap over my B230FT are the radiator hoses and fuel rail rubber lines. Right now, the b21ft has an exhaust leak at the hot side of the turbine housing (connected to the exhaust manifold) and has a bad ticking from it eating the valve silencer. It's also running lean a lot for some reason. And it possibly needs a new control pressure regulator or thermal relay switch. To fix the simplest problem (exhaust leak) I could simply pull the engine and put in the new one and wire it up. So it's not really worth putting any money into it. I'm not driving it like an idiot, though. I should be all right while I wait. edit: when I tried to quote you, my entire post went blank. what the gently caress 
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May 14, 2010 03:17
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Sir Tonk posted:Ok power issue has popped up again. Now it's cutting out at full-throttle. Did it on the highway when I was passing someone and basically cut the fuel supply (I guess) at 4k rpm twice in a row. Did it again a week later, but at a different RPM and freaked out the speedo at the same time. Speedo didn't start working again until I got off the highway. Also, no check engine light or anything when this happens. I think the speedometer is unrelated to the problem you're having. It sounds like a problem related to overboosting (either a faulty overboost / overpressure solenoid) or your turbo is legitimately overboosting (which is unlikely unless you've tweaked it). But this is in my limited knowledge of cars and the fact that this was the exact problem I had (except with a 2 series turbo).
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May 18, 2010 01:31
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Sir Tonk posted:I'll mention that to the shop. This car is stock as hell, other than the suspension work I've done. The PO has the maintenance records book filled out at the same dealership for the first fourteen years of the car's life, then he gave it to his son (in his forties) and they let their maid drive it or something. The down-pipe is a bit soft and I'm looking to replace that, but other than that and what sounds like an exhaust leak, there isn't much obvious that could be causing it. Your idea is the first reasonable explanation so far. I'd recommend replacing the downpipe with a flexible pipe section when you do. It's a bit more expensive but you'll save your exhaust manifold from cracking near the firewall (and potentially having to replace studs, which is a bitch from what I've experienced). I still wish I could figure out what the gently caress is the cause of my idling problem before I swap out the engine, though. I feel like a failure not being able to diagnose it.  Fuel injector cleaner helped a bit, but the problem still exists:tl;dr: First two or three minutes of driving, I have to heel-toe the car while it warms up in order to prevent it from puttering out. This happens mostly when the car is cold and linearly decreases in time depending on how long the car has been sitting (so completely cold is 3 minutes and semi-warm is like 30 seconds to a minute. Does this make sense?). I'm thinking it's the control pressure regulator at this point but the problem occurred after the shop put in a new alternator. So it could be something they forgot to hook up, or the alternator melted a wire on the harness (likely because the new alternator causes fuse 8 to blow a fuse every time I turn off the car now and before this never happened ever). The new alternator also caused #30's connection on my fuel relay to fry so I had to re-splice it to a semi-mutilated still-fried-but-not-really state. ugh cars 
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May 18, 2010 05:24
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Sir Tonk posted:You're fuel injected right? That's common enough with carbs, but kind of bizarre with FI. Well, when a car is at WOT, o2 sensors shut off and MAF's/AMM's tell the car to dump extra fuel into the engine. At least from what I've read. A faulty MAF would make you run lean under boost in this case, I think. My '93 with a B230F had this exact problem of running lean from a faulty MAF. Having fuel cut out like that just seems like it would be the case of the overboost solenoid being faulty or something wonky with your wastegate. Have you checked your boost gauge while the fuel is cutting out? Have you ever gotten more boost than you're used to at WOT? My friend who is an ex-Volvo technician says that he had the wastegate problem in his car which resulted in fuel cutting out. He has a 9 series, for reference. The speedometer going out is weird, though. I've heard of it happening before from a faulty relay in the gauge cluster but I don't really have any info past that. And my car is k-jet so yeah it's mechanical fuel injection. God I just want this swap to happen. My work is short-staffed seven people so the entire staff is working full-time, most taking full-time loads at school as well. Working five/six days a week from 3 to midnight means little can be done in terms of car activity outside of driving said car to and from said job. 
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May 18, 2010 07:46
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Sir Tonk posted:Ok then it's probably the MAF still acting up. At least they're easy to replace, just don't want to spend $300+ right now... Just get a MAF from a junkyard or turbobricks/swedespeed/volvospeed for $45. If it takes five to get it working, bam, you just saved $50!
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May 19, 2010 03:05
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Splizwarf posted:I've honestly worried about my MAF in the '89 sometimes but never gotten one from the junkyard because I have no way to test it short of putting it on the car, and I've always figured that's one of the parts that's probably going to be hosed on junkyard cars too, like dashboards and that sedan center taillight I failed to get intact for you. If you want some MAFs I'll certainly hook you up, just tossing some "buyer beware" in there and waiting for a response. If you take a multimeter with you, I think the cars' respective manuals have a range of voltage readings which can tell you whether or not the MAF is malfunctioning.
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May 19, 2010 20:35
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Splizwarf posted:I thought the car had to be running for this to work, and I'd need an oscilliscope meter. I'm fairly certain you test the terminals inside the plug of the MAF but I'd have to double-check. I'm sure somebody knows better than I do. 
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May 19, 2010 22:30
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Just a random question: Maybe I just suck at manual, but anybody ever have bad shuddering with the clutch if the car's not warmed up? Especially in reverse? Parking lots are an utter loving nightmare (and parallel parking is even worse) because the car will shudder so bad in reverse that it sometimes stalls outright.
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May 20, 2010 21:27
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I use 15w40 because I'm a cheapass. $10 a gallon? Yes, please! In the last few thousand miles after switching to it, it's completely stopped my car from eating oil. Either that, or something where my dipstick lies is clogged with gunk from using tractor oil since it's read full for over a month now despite me driving it harder and harder every day. 
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May 27, 2010 09:29
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Totally stole that ad and posted it in the tbricks "for sale" section just now. I wonder what the response will be.
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May 28, 2010 10:30
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So sometimes when I turn my key for my car before I start, I'll hear a whirring and a ping and my car will start immediately instead of cranking several times. What could be causing this? Am I hearing that some sort of injector isn't working and may be possibly shorting somewhere?
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Jun 2, 2010 09:48
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82Daion posted:I dunno about the "ping," but the whirring is your fuel pump running for a couple seconds to prime the system and build pressure. My car does this as well, and while it seems logical that it would do it every time you prepared to start the car, it's similarly intermittent. I had a total brainfart when writing that, haha. I'm fairly certain it's the fuel pump relay, which had its connection fried when the alternator was put in.  Thanks for confirming it though! This Saturday I'm pulling a drivetrain from another 240 for my friend and afterward taking the accessories I need to do some more work on the swap. 40 hours a week at the 'bux kills time for doing pretty much anything else.
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Jun 4, 2010 10:40
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Ether Frenzy posted:Full time jobs are hard on the old hobbies. My car tinkering has taken a definite hit over the last decade or so - it's ironic, you finally have some money to do things correctly... and no free time or energy to actually get anything accomplished. True that! Maybe if I started up an MMORPG again I could start using those diapers a bit earlier than 50. Ah, the feeling of retirement. Oh, and I finally bought an engine hoist!  Now the only thing I'm waiting for is garage space and this swap is loving happening. My friend helped me completely strip my B230FT in my garage and now it's a matter of finding a shop to polish the head and getting various gaskets that didn't come in the Elring sets from IPD. But the engine looks phenomenal. The entire thing has virtually 0 carbon buildup and looks like the oil was changed pretty frequently. No oil pan sludge either. Like, at all.Apparently I need to upgrade my gauge cluster from mechanical to electrical. Is this true? I hear it can cause idling issues but I can't seem to find out why. 82Daion, did you do this? I'm guessing this is another one of those times where somebody on tbricks sold an important part in their car for meth or booze and then posted about why something isn't working.
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Jun 7, 2010 21:43
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82Daion posted:What transmission are you using with the B230FT? If you're keeping your M46, you won't have to change anything, but if you're swapping to an M47, you'll need to find a rear end from a '89 or newer 240 along with the electronic gauge cluster. The LH2.4 240s had a sensor in the rear end that provided a signal for the electronic speedo, so the M47 doesn't have any provision for driving a speedo cable. I'm gonna be running an M47 so I guess it's off to the yunkyard for more parts for me! Thanks for the info! $160 later, I have every gasket and rubber bit I need for my car from the Volvo dealership. Just need the heater hoses (upper and lower) and new fuel lines (as well as the gauge cluster and rearend that you mentioned). My friend is running an open downpipe in his DOHC 16V turbo right now and the thing is louder than my neighbor's Harley. It's pretty loving sweet but almost getting pulled over twice isn't. (he bolted down an alley and immediately parked and started skateboarding and the cop circled three times without figuring out what went on since all he was going by was the sound, hahaha). rubbersoul posted:Does anybody know what the little clips that hold the brake lines into their brackets on 240s are called? I can't seem to find them anywhere for sale. You'll have to be more specific. There's tons of brackets that hold brake lines. If you can give me a general location I can get a part number for you, possibly. Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Jun 8, 2010 |
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Jun 8, 2010 02:28
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rubbersoul posted:It's the piece that holds the soft line to the hard line through the line brackets in in the front wheel wells, it's a collar with two tabs that you bend inward toward the line to keep them from falling though the bracket. They're present on both the strut and the body brackets at the connections. Specific enough I hope?   Click here for the full 739x988 image. Does this help? Sorry, I was in a hurry earlier so I couldn't link a schematic earlier. There's a lot of brackets that hold lines of various sizes so I figure this is easier. 
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Jun 8, 2010 03:52
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How does one remove a snapped head bolt if it broke inside a block? RFT was too much on the FT side.
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Jun 19, 2010 03:00
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Crispulus posted:
Megasquirt it.  I've been redlining my car more and more and it seems to perform better and run smoother every day. I guess I should stop babying cars. Just ordered a set of silicon radiator hoses and head bolts. Gonna take the block to a machine shop to see if it needs to be re-bored. Gonna also replace the bearings and crank parts (at the shop, not gonna do it myself; gently caress that). Ordering an e-fan, Nippon-Denso 100A alternator, and IPD rear cam seal plate tomorrow. All I'm missing now is my intermediate shaft, square tooth crank gear, and crank position sensor (I have the bracket, just need the actual unit). Well, all I'm missing from what I don't know that I'm missing. Hah. Once everything is in my hands, parking the car and doing the swap. Once the engine runs, I'm gonna swap out the back end with a '93 end so my speedometer works. I wish you fucks lived closer to SoCal so I could have a hand to hold along the way.
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Jun 22, 2010 10:12
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If it doesn't prime, try squeezing the fuel pump relay and it should fire. Of course that's if the FPR is bad.
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Jun 24, 2010 10:58
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How do you diagnose a red-hot turbo that doesn't have trouble building boost? Could it be my exhaust leak? By the way 3" exhaust is loving huge. I can't wait to get the whole thing.
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Jul 4, 2010 01:50
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Engine's block will be at my house back from the machine shop, resurfaced and head bolt extracted. Rebuilding it tonight. I have the crank position sensor and now all I need is a good intermediate shaft and square tooth crank gear, which I plan on getting very soon. Garage is almost clean. Engine swap is almost here!
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Jul 23, 2010 21:14
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Sardikar posted:Since this seems to be the place for Volvo chat I might as well ask for help here. AMM's are like $40 at the yard dude! Or check tbricks. There's usually somebody selling a tested and working one every now and then. Not saying it's the problem, but if it turns out to be, then this is your solution.
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Jul 26, 2010 08:51
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Jack_Handey posted:Sounds like it's time to throw some money at your brick! Mine dyno'd 156whp and 211tq with just a cheapass MBC and a 2.5" exhaust, would've been even better if it didn't hit fuel cut. Total investment: $150. Get a 20psi vacuum pump and run it through the line for your overpressure solenoid until your fuel cuts off at idle. That's your max boost before your fuel cuts out. Then take a screwdriver and adjust the screw inward/outward until this increases to about 16 or 17 psi. Then take a cheapass boost controller and crank it up to like 13-14 psi. Profit! That's what I'm doing today anyway. I'm only running 5psi with an IPD turbo cam and the car has many more balls than before (b21ft with a 12b though). Gonna have some fun with that before my engine is pulled next week. After that (and a good leakdown test) it's a matter of getting a better MAF, bigger injectors, wideband o2 sensor, chippable ECU's + chips, and a 3" exhaust. Also, anybody know of a great exhaust shop in the SoCal area that is capable of making a custom 3" exhaust for a 240 that doesn't scrape? I was thinking something like this: 
Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Aug 6, 2010 |
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Aug 6, 2010 20:42
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My friend and I are gonna be pulling the engine from my 240 for the swap tomorrow. If anybody's in SoCal and knows a thing or two about this sort of thing, we're always open for a hand or two to wrench stuff and I'd compensate in beer and Cinnamon Toast Crunch. 
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Aug 11, 2010 22:40
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82Daion posted:How'd it go? Being as I turned 21, I went to Pizza Port and got a medium Pizza Roma and three assorted types of brews with my friend Zach (ZVOLV on tbricks) and girlfriend (who just turned 21 as well) instead. It will be this upcoming week though, for sure, haha.
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Aug 14, 2010 21:51
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  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. A tbricker and Volvo Master Tech Patrick on the left and my good buddy and ex-Volvo tech Zach (ZVOLV) on the right. We lost a day of work because the aftermarket tranny mount a shop put on used a bolt that was .5" too long and made dropping the cross member impossible without using an obscure metric socket. (a 1" socket wouldn't catch on the nut and a 2" socket would hit the cross member itself so we had to find one between that) We need fuel lines, a new clutch cable, a dipstick tube, and some various gromets and gaskets. After that, it's removing the old wiring harness, re-routing the battery to the front, and splicing in the new engine management system. This should make the car run. After that, it's making the speedo work by swapping out the rear axle assembly and gauge cluster of the same age. *~PROGRESS~*
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Aug 22, 2010 08:39
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82Daion posted:
I wish you were closer. Apparently turbobrickers are mostly failures at life and I got lucky by meeting three in my area that are actually awesome. I'll see if I can steal my girlfriend's brother's camera for a few shots of the progress as we collect the parts and I actually get time off of work. drat you, Starbucks, taking up my precious life!  seriously never loving work at that soul-sucking company
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Aug 23, 2010 08:12
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Crossposting from t-bricks: God I wonder what that poo poo sounds like
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Aug 26, 2010 08:49
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How much of a difference does it make between widths of wheels for handling and grip to the road? 15x7", 16x8", etc.
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Aug 30, 2010 22:17
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Thanks for the clarification of that! I'm guessing the "15" in 205/15/50 is the diameter and the 50 is the height of the tire from the ground to the rim? Second question: What are some nice wheels under a grand for my 240? Right now I'm running 15" Virgo rims but the back wheels are hella sunk and it looks terrible
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Aug 30, 2010 23:42
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 12:45 |
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stash posted:Virgos are the stock 240 turbo wheels. They are 15x6. Dracos are similar looking but have more clearance for the brake calipers, they are stock from 740T and I think they are also 15x6. There were two styles of mesh-type BBS-looking wheels, one available on the 240 SE, which look good. I think they are also 15x6 but I seem to remember one type being 15x7. The Hydra wheels off the 740/940T look pretty good to me on a 240, but some people disagree. They are 16x6.5 and should be widely available. If it was me, I would be looking for used wheels as it seems silly to spend $1000 on brand new wheels for a 20 year old car unless it's a major build-up. I don't mind if they're used or not but that price typically is what people pay for decent used wheels + spacers/adapters. First things first is getting this engine in my car though. Work!
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Aug 31, 2010 22:03
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