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Yeah, edit the throttle body part to just indicate all Magnetti-Marelli ETMs from 99-02, found in ALL S70, V70, and S60 cars of those years. Not sure if they're the same as the S80 but it's quite possible. These are warranted by Volvo to 10 years/200k miles, and when replaced they have a yellow sticker on the front. If yours still has a white sticker it has not been replaced and will very likely fail, so watch for signs and get in on the warranty if you can. If you can't, there's a place rebuilding them with optical position sensors instead of wiping mechanical contacts which appears to be a permanent fix. It's spendy (~500) but you only have to do it once, and it's cheaper than the Volvo replacements which are out of pocket now for all '99 and '00 cars, and '01s soon enough. I learned to drive on a Volvo, and have owned 19 of them if you count parts cars. Here's my little fleet, most of you are already familiar with them. Summer fun car, daily driver, and classic collectible.    I'm actually settled on these 3 cars for the long term, I don't anticipate replacing any of them, but if I did it'd just be to upgrade the wagon to an R wagon. I don't see that happening unless I win the lottery or something. Edit: In 2017 I got an R and it lived up to expectations. Great to drive, massive money pit. Sold it in 2020 for the current white daily with no plans to replace it ever. We should probably have a section on specific models to seek out and specific models/engines to avoid. The porous block falls into that as well as the first year cars, the old V6s and the S80 in general. I'll be happy to contribute that in the next few days. Also, maybe a short section on the "special" Volvos that are moderately rare, like the 1800ES, the 164, and the 260/780 Bertones. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Apr 15, 2010 16:02
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8ender posted:If I was looking around for a reasonably quick, fairly reliable 90's Turbo Volvo which one would you guys recommend? Any 850 or 70 series turbo from '95 through '98 is going to be quick and reliable. The T5 is the more powerful turbo but the 2.4 turbos build torque quicker. The '98 70 series are nearly identical to the 850, they just have a facelift to the front sheetmetal and interior. If you want a turbo with manual transmission, '98 is the only year to search as that's the only year they were available in the USA, and they're still super rare. Manual swaps are becoming very common, as there were enough N/A manual cars imported to provide the parts. The '99 through '00 models are less reliable than the earlier ones (due to the ETM and a few other updated electronics issues) but not by much. If you want rear wheel drive, I highly recommend the '93 to '95 940 turbos. They are, in my opinion, the most reliable low maintenance Volvo ever made. They're the final years of a 13 year platform so all the bugs were worked out. They're less fun and less moddable than the 850/70 series in my opinion. Sviatoslav posted:I've heard bad things about S70's handling like poo poo, but I've never experienced driving one. That might be a mistake, or maybe you meant the S90 (which was an updated 960 with very soft suspension) because the S70 suspension is pretty much identical in every way to the 850, and they handle great. The S90s/960s don't handle bad, per se, they just aren't very moddable and are set for luxury.
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Apr 15, 2010 18:44
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Sviatoslav posted:Nope, S70, but you have to consider my source... Turbobricks.... I was told by more than one member there that if I went from my 850 to a S70 it would be like night and day in terms of handling. You're welcome! That was actually my 4th build thread, so if you want more where that came from you should buy archives and search. 2 of the others are listed in the stickied projects thread. I'd be interested to find out the reasoning for that, but I can't imagine it being correct. I do know that my C70 chassis is identical to the S70 and despite being about 400 lb heavier, I out-handled at least one 850 on one of our local mountain drives last summer.
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Apr 15, 2010 19:58
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it was the clutch and it felt like a cable snapping, it was probably the clutch cable. I think you're right, the only hydraulic clutch 240s I remember were the V6 manual models.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:02
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I don't believe 240s are hydraulic clutch, but I could be wrong.
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It would really surprise me if you can't buy that from the dealer, it's at least worth a check. It's also possible it will come with the cable assembly. I'd call these guys and see if they can get it. They do have your return spring there for $2.99. http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-e...1116/by_year/39
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Apr 18, 2010 05:26
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kimbo305 posted:I was gonna ask -- how many Volvos follow the number of doors rule for the last number? Didn't they stop doing that well before the end of the 240? Ya, in around 1983 when they introduced the 700 series, they didn't use the door number on the car, and broke convention on the cylinder number as well. They had the 740, the 740 turbo, the 760 turbo which had a 4 banger, and the 760 with a V6. I know by 1986 they stopped on the 240s as well but I can't remember if that was the first year or not.
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Apr 19, 2010 07:01
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trouser chili posted:So, anyone care to guess how much I'm going to be in to fix this? I'm into one with similar damage right now for about $200 in parts, although you need both headlights where I only needed one. You won't even need to replace the radiator supports, they'll just bend back into shape. You need to find a pick & pull or a Volvo shop with an identical parts car, but once you do you should be into it for well under $500 depending on just how cheap you are. If it were my car I'd get a new radiator instead of used but I'd also forgo the a/c, as it wasn't particularly good on those cars even when working perfectly. Also if you do decide to replace the fender, you need one from a car with both the same headlight configuration and cowl configuration. The differences will be fog lights by the grille and a hood that goes all the way back to the windshield. Those change the turn signal hole and the shape at the windshield corner. Also if you find a 1989 or 1990 740 (I think those are the years) with that "hockey stick" headlight trim configuration, just know that it was a slightly different shape. It'll all bolt on, but you won't be able to mix and match parts, the "nose" on the hood is slightly narrower on your car, meaning the hood, grille, and hockey stick trim under the lights are unique on the 7 of those years. The headlights, signals and fenders are the same though. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Apr 23, 2010 |
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Apr 23, 2010 17:46
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Definitely not a turbo, the airbox is on the driver's side and battery on the passenger's. edit: No, the painted trim for the giant single headlight is shaped like a hockey stick. I probably should have just said giant single headlight.
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Apr 23, 2010 17:58
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blankooie posted:Really though, thats amazing for that car to win in any sort of rally compared to the usual competition. Not really, 50s and 60s Volvos have always been very fast and competitive against period competition, especially in rallies. They're built by a country that, at the time, had tons of dirt roads that were covered in snow half the year. They just don't have a motorsport pedigree or reputation except to enthusiasts. Thanks for the picture reddeathdrinker, I always love it when Amazons are represented.
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Apr 26, 2010 05:25
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TheJeffers posted:Has anyone done an AC evaporator replacement on a 940 before? Mine's sitting here in pieces (it came that way with the car) and I'm trying to piece it back together before the weather gets really hot here. I know on the 960s it's just a matter of removing the passenger side interior trim, the glove box, and a cover plate, but I haven't done a 940. I can't imagine it's much different.
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Apr 27, 2010 05:54
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Service lights are useless for guys like us, if you can't find a shop that will reset it for free, just thread your hand up under there and pull the bulb. That's one thing I miss about the Saab I used to have, you could pull and change bulbs through the dash speaker hole. It was super convenient for that retarded "shift now for fuel economy" light that was basically always illuminated unless I was in 5th gear.
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Apr 27, 2010 16:09
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JayKay posted:Replaced the battery on my wife's volvo which of course resulted in the radio needing a code. Me being the moron I am tried to unsuccessfully guess the code and locked out the radio. We ended up going to the Volvo dealer and we do have the real code now. Maybe if you told us even one detail besides "Volvo" we might be able to help.
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Apr 29, 2010 16:46
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JayKay posted:1998 S70 Base. Sorry, https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1998/1998_SV70/98sv70_000.htm From the audio section: quote:During this waiting period:
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May 1, 2010 08:47
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Well, if the bulb out sensor relay dies, one thing that can happen is brake light failure with no indication on the dash. I would change it out with a junkyard unit and see what happens. It's the large round relay in the main relay panel behind the ashtray/stereo. Try pulling a different bulb and see if the indicator tells you a bulb is out. If not then it's definitely a bad relay. Although, if it does indicate on the dash, I wouldn't rule out the relay. Edit: I never knew there was one in the rear of the car, I've never owned a 7 wagon. I just can't imagine the wiring being that different.
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May 3, 2010 07:38
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Best Friend posted:I'm looking at a 96 850R on craigslist that is listed as good condition, HID 6000k headlights, 80% Goodyear f1's and new sparkplugs. Can I score it for $4k? Listed for $4600, Kbb price is $5k On the first generation cars, the T5 models were nearly as fast as the R models, the Rs simply held peak boost for 30 additional seconds on full throttle accelleration. They also had special interiors and were lower. They were really fast, many people suggested they were underrated from the factory. Anyway, a T5 is far more common and an adequate substitute. In '98 there even were a lot of manual tranny T5 cars imported. The '98-'00 S and V 70 cars are just a facelifted 850 so include those in your shopping if you want. '98 is viewed as the peak in terms of features and reliability, as they went to drive by wire in '99. Best Friend posted:Also, do all the wagons make the beeping noise like when a truck backs up? My friend's Volvo wagons does that (not sure what model or year, sorry) No, that's an aftermarket kit. IPD used to sell one that plugged in to your reverse light socket, a previous owner might have thought that was cool.
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May 3, 2010 17:34
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Xovaan posted:I'm pretty loopy from having four impacted wisdom teeth extracted, but I was wondering if anybody could tell me if I need to change my ignition coil if I'm moving from my old '84 ignition to EZK. Well, spark is always volatile towards the tension of the induction, so alternately I would think capacitance wise you could just cross check with congruent exception. Or maybe I don't know but loving with loopy people is fun.
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May 3, 2010 23:53
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Fucker.  Edit: Hey Jeffers, put that http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/community/pages/yourvolvo.aspx link in the OP. It's where any factory available information like owner's manuals and option sheets and poo poo are available on Volvo's US website. I'm tired of linking people directly. They have supporting documentation back to 1965, and owners manuals from 1976 onward. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 04:56 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 04:52
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Dang I didn't mean to sound that cranky when I wrote that. Splizwarf: Just change the bulb out sensor, you're asking why it does one thing and not another when none of us really understand how the thing works. Don't use logic, just try it. You have two of the same car, you don't even need to make the trip to the junkyard. Swap relays and see if symptoms follow.
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May 4, 2010 14:15
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deratomicdog posted:So I am told I need a new ac compressor, and was quoted 800 bucks. How hard is this to do on an 850? I've never worked on an ac system before. It's $800 hard. That said, if you gave me $800 I'd do it for you, so yeah it'll be worth it to do yourself. But it's kind of in a bitch of a place and I'm not sure if anything like the radiator needs to come out. If nothing comes out it's just a matter of removing the belt, unplugging the wire, removing 2 hoses (2 bolts) and removing the compressor (4 bolts). If your A/C system has been exposed to atmosphere for any length of time, you definitely want to replace the receiver/dryer canister too, unfortunately. They're an additional $80 or so wholesale. If nobody else chimes in I'll look it up tonight and see if Volvo recommends removing anything to do the job. (lift engine, remove front mount, power steering rack, subframe, etc)
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May 4, 2010 15:29
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I don't know how good the remanned ones are. You'll want to pull the radiator, intercooler, and a/c condenser all as one stack. Since you have to crack the a/c system anyway, that'll make the whole job a lot easier. If it still has any freon in the system I would take the car to a shop and have them evacuate it, you should get some money back for it, which can be put towards recharging costs.
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May 4, 2010 18:50
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Well, I'd have the oil on hand and a large pan underneath the filter just in case, but I think so. The oil is mostly below the filter on these engines.
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May 5, 2010 15:40
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TheJeffers posted:OK, after busting my rear end all weekend to confirm that there's no intermixing of fluids happening between the oil/ATF/coolant, I'm also noticing that I'm getting bubbling/boiling in the coolant overflow tank after normal driving. Based on this, I'm guessing it's time to replace the head gasket, but I'm too tired/frustrated to think straight. If anyone wants to confirm/deny, I'd appreciate it. Before you do that, replace your coolant reservoir cap. A pressure leak in it can cause overboiling after the water pump stops. It's a common failure and they're not expensive to replace.
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May 10, 2010 05:48
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Splizwarf posted:Oh. Tell me more about how this works.  As anyone who passed high school chemistry should know, raising the pressure of a fluid even a couple PSI can raise its boiling point several degrees. The coolant systems in our Volvos are designed to run above atmospheric pressure somewhere from 5 to 12 psi when hot. The green cap for example is set at 1.5 bar (approx. 8 psi above ambient) which raises the boiling point of water to 233°F. The expansion tank cap is where the pressure relief valve is, and if it can't hold system pressure, the coolant will bubble and boil off due to the high amount of heat still held in the engine, and lack of circulation when shut off. I'm not saying it's not a head gasket, just saying it's a common failure and cheap to test. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:34 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 19:58
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TheJeffers posted:I swapped the coolant tank cap for a black 75KPa one we had lying around, which didn't appear to make any difference (although it's certainly within the realm of possibility that it's bad too.) In any case, I have a new cap and tank on the way. 75kpa is below atmospheric pressure, that car should have a 150Kpa cap and IF that's the cause, it would behave exactly the same. Sorry to keep ragging on this subject but I don't think you've ruled out the coolant cap. Best Friend posted:How much does the rear main seal cost to repair, and what are the symptoms? Leaking? Yes, an oil leak from the joint between the engine and transmission is the symptom of a rear main seal leak. If you pay a shop to do it the cost will be in the $600-$800 range, it's a lot of labor. It's only $12 or so if you do it yourself, although there are other things you'll want to replace while you're in there. What year/make/engine car is it?
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May 11, 2010 03:39
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Best Friend posted:1994 850 Turbo. I don't have the problem yet but I want to be prepared as possible. Anybody got a good step-by-step? What's your skill level? You have to remove the transmission, so if you don't already have an idea of what that entails it might be over your head to tackle. Not the easiest step by step procedure. But deratomicdog is right, maintain the PVC system (which is $125 in parts and a lot less/much easier labor) and you shouldn't have the seal problem.
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May 11, 2010 22:59
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Possible but not necessarily. I think it's far more likely that the harmonic balancer is broken which spun the timing mark on it. You can confirm that by pulling the spark plug and sticking a screwdriver in cylinder number one. Rotate the engine and find top dead center by just feeling the piston reach the top and go back down. If it does match the crank pulley location then yes your cam timing is hosed. To read that crank timing mark, you can see 20 and 10, imagine a 0 the same distance away to the right, about where the sharp corner of the marks are. Edit: Wait, you can see the 0 on the face of the timing cover, behind the belt. That can be caused by missing teeth on the belt that you aren't seeing because they're ripped off somewhere else. Should be easy to fix, just do a new timing belt kit. It could also be the cam gear, it's just clocked by a roll pin, it's held in place by the bolt torque. If the bolt comes loose, it could shear off the pin maybe. If it's just the harmonic balancer, then you gotta keep looking. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 06:03 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 05:58
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I believe there are two coolant sensors, and the one that feeds the ECU (and outputs via OBD) is different than the one that runs the fan. And they are known to go bad. Also did you check all the fuses? If the relay was known bad it might have shorted and popped the fuse. You can also just check to see if the relay is getting power, it's either that or it's not getting signal. That'd be another test, put signal to the relay and see if the fan fires up. Seat Safety Switch posted:What a waste of a majestic steed. Waste? I'd chuck any 240 over a cliff for 30 large. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 18:07 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 18:04
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Nah, that looks normal. The tensioner has a giant hole in it so it can float on that stud in the block, and the spring tightens it up to where it needs to be, and you just lock it down with the nut and huge washer. Sorry about the boiling, not sure what to check next. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:26 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 07:24
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epix posted:These 164's somewhat reliable? $2k seems like a bit of a stretch to me, you can get real nice condition ones for $4k-$6k if you shop around, as far as I've seen. But yeah, they're pretty much just as reliable as the other Volvos of the era, which is to say they'll go a lot of miles without a lot of problems. There are a few parts unique to that model, mostly in the engine, front end, and front suspension, but they did make them for 6 or more years so spares should be somewhat available. Talk to Crispulus, he has one. And many 240 series parts fit on that body, like window glass, doors and trunk lid. I have always loved that taillight setup with the license plate area shaved like that. The bumper is real soft aluminum so you can punch it with a conduit punch, then you can buy an auto parts store license plate light to hang the plate under the bumper and be legal.
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May 17, 2010 17:49
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Sir Tonk posted:Ok power issue has popped up again. Now it's cutting out at full-throttle. Did it on the highway when I was passing someone and basically cut the fuel supply (I guess) at 4k rpm twice in a row. Did it again a week later, but at a different RPM and freaked out the speedo at the same time. Speedo didn't start working again until I got off the highway. Also, no check engine light or anything when this happens. Try a junkyard fuel pump relay, the ignition system is tied to the relay so if the relay cuts out the speedo and tach go dead. Does the tach drop like a rock or slowly wind down with the motor speed? Just a possible solution, although the last time it happened to me I did get a CEL. I suggest the junkyard relay because a new relay is like $50 so I'd hate to see you waste that money on a test.
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May 18, 2010 17:31
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Hey, I thought this link was pretty cool, it's got Porsches, Vipers, Vettes, Mustangs... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5G48jvO-LE Oh yeah, and a couple Volvos. Kicking their asses.
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May 19, 2010 04:21
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kimbo305 posted:I wonder if the Volvos AWD gave them such radically different lines that it help set up their passing. I dunno, but it couldn't hurt. If you look at the related video from New Jersey, it rained during the race and their 1-2 finish was very obviously a direct result of the AWD. Hell, Pobst got a start penalty and was bumped clear back to #10 or some poo poo and still came back for a 2nd place finish in that race.
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May 19, 2010 15:49
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Cruise the swedespeed classifieds, they have a dedicated wheel section that a) lists a lot of the Volvo wheels and b) frequently has nice sets of wheels for sale. I think there's a set of Volans on there right now.
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May 21, 2010 17:10
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talk show ghost posted:I've got a 1998 V70 AWD and the cruise control doesn't work. The fuse looks fine, but when you press the button to turn it on nothing happens, no lights and of course the cruise controls don't work either. Brake position switch. This is not the brake light switch under the dash, it's a switch in the brake booster in the engine bay. It could also be the park/neutral switch or if you're in europe and it's a manual, the clutch switch. Have a volvo shop read the codes, you should have a "brake switch out of range" code or something similar. It's the kind of code that won't throw a CEL it'll just make your cruise fail to work.
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May 22, 2010 05:21
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Cakefool posted:I've got first refusal on a stupid cheap low mileage 2.4 V70 AWD, problem is it's Auto. Just how expensive/complicated are the AWD's & can I expect anywhere near 30mpg on a long run? Yes, all the 5 cyl Volvos pull high 20s/low 30s on the freeway as far as I know. The AWD varies by year, you really should tell what year you're talking about. Although I'm sure you know that and just forgot.
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May 23, 2010 19:20
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mikerock posted:My 98 V70XC AWD is atrocious on gas. I get about 700kms out of a tank when i take it on the highway which is just OK for a 70L tank, but in the city I am lucky to get 450km. Weird, I wonder if that's the difference between AWD and FWD. I average about the same as you on both my 5cyl cars on city driving. And I keep my foot in it a lot.
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May 24, 2010 00:03
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The earlier AWD was just a bit of a dog, not particularly unreliable, as long as tires were rotated to keep them all the same size. Although when the driveshaft goes out, you will need to get it rebuilt or replace the whole thing, which is nice and expensive. Many people just pull the shaft and the AWD fuse and just run the car FWD to save the money. On that car it won't throw codes or anything as far as I know. And yeah the dark gray is gorgeous, it was my first choice for color on my convertible.
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May 24, 2010 21:38
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Cakefool posted:So it's the driveshaft, not the transfer that goes? Bizarre. What's so expensive about it? They won't sell pieces of it, only the whole thing. $1100 list from Volvo, $800 if you're lucky online, or around $450 to rebuild it IF the driveshaft center can get the parts. There's a place here that is able to get some years and rebuild them. as halfway crooks posted:850R you idiot, V70R is clearly inferior 1) Lies. 2) I believe yes up to 2000. I know the taillights are interchangeable.
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May 25, 2010 03:18
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ch1mp posted:Quick question: What is the goon approved oil formulation/weight/brand for the 240 B230F red blocks (1989)? I've always run Castrol GTX dino oil at 10w40 and it's never ever let me down.
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May 27, 2010 04:05
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deratomicdog posted:Nope, it's obd2 Bump the park/neutral switch? It's right on top of the tranny below the airbox. Sounds unlikely but usually the flashing up arrow is either an ABS or tranny problem.
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May 30, 2010 05:22
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