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Crispulus posted:Goon does idiot thing at tattoo parlor. That's actually an interesting idea. I could start a series of tattoos that are profiles drawings of each car I've owned. And this one looks killer. edit as halfway crooks posted:
Aww, I've got one of those too. Probably should get a sticker.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. TheJeffers posted:They're probably going to go into this, which will also be getting 960 taillights and an eggcrate grille once I've got it: Speaking of, I've got a similar car. I've got another grill, if you want it. The Volvo logo is missing, but it's fine otherwise. First two are the weekend I bought it, during massive cleaning.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. These are from a few months ago, after the 960 taillights.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Still need to hit it with a clay bar and I'll probably have to get the wheels redone due to previous owner's neglect the past few years, but it's in great shape otherwise. Even has the ipd sway bars and bilstein shocks/struts as well as the polyurethane bushings when available on the full suspension. I'll probably sell it towards the end of the summer and I'll post it here first in case anyone is interested. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Apr 29, 2010 |
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Apr 29, 2010 22:52
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And TheJeffers, if you're going to switch your 940 to 960 taillights, be prepared to stare at the bulb out light on your dash any time you hit the brakes or have the lights on. They use different bulbs and will confuse your car. If you find a solution to this, let me know. It's pretty annoying.
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Apr 29, 2010 23:17
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TheJeffers posted:I've already got the 960 tails on the car, but they don't trigger the bulb out indicator for me, for whatever reason. Is yours a 1991 or 1992? Mine is a 91 and I'm not sure what year the 960 lights are from. I can say that they have different casings and I couldn't just pull the light assembly from the oem lights and plug them directly into the new casings. And they used different sized bulbs, which was inconvenient. If I sell it, I'll probably put the old lights back on and include the 960 casings if they want to deal with it. Oh and the speedo has started acting up again. Probably just need to open the diff and clean it up, but I've got an extra cluster in case it's not the sender and I need to replace the stock speedo. edit Bulk Vanderhuge posted:MY VOLVO 212k on the odometer. A good video. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Apr 30, 2010 |
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Apr 30, 2010 22:38
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Splizwarf posted:When my speedo went apeshit, it was actually the silicone wire-ends inside the plug at the dif that had rotted all to gently caress, and replacing them fixed everything. We checked that when I took it to the Volvo shop before I bought it. The speedo had died while it was sitting for a few months in front of the guy's house and started working after about forty miles of driving. It sat for a week while I was in California and basically did the same thing, so I'm guessing it's some sort of buildup in the diff. I need to change the fluid anyway, so I'll just check it out then. Splizwarf posted:On a related note, the Bulb Out light on my other 740 is on all the time, even with all the lights off. It'll burn out eventually.
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May 4, 2010 01:29
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Ok power issue has popped up again. Now it's cutting out at full-throttle. Did it on the highway when I was passing someone and basically cut the fuel supply (I guess) at 4k rpm twice in a row. Did it again a week later, but at a different RPM and freaked out the speedo at the same time. Speedo didn't start working again until I got off the highway. Also, no check engine light or anything when this happens. What happens seems to me like it's cutting the fuel supply and the car coasts for a couple of seconds before the throttle starts to respond again then it's fine (other than the speedo freaking out). Car behaves normally otherwise. Car is a 1991 940 Turbo with under 140k miles and engine is in close to perfect condition internally. Speedo has been acting up and cuts out on the highway every so often, but hasn't died completely so I'm waiting to replace the cluster.
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May 18, 2010 00:12
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Xovaan posted:I think the speedometer is unrelated to the problem you're having. It sounds like a problem related to overboosting (either a faulty overboost / overpressure solenoid) or your turbo is legitimately overboosting (which is unlikely unless you've tweaked it). I'll mention that to the shop. This car is stock as hell, other than the suspension work I've done. The PO has the maintenance records book filled out at the same dealership for the first fourteen years of the car's life, then he gave it to his son (in his forties) and they let their maid drive it or something. The down-pipe is a bit soft and I'm looking to replace that, but other than that and what sounds like an exhaust leak, there isn't much obvious that could be causing it. Your idea is the first reasonable explanation so far. Seat Safety Switch posted:Have you checked your ignition system? I had a similar problem in my old j-body whose root was in an improperly gapped spark plug. I'll check it too, haven't replace the plugs since I got it. I've got a gap tool, so that's easy enough. And the other gauges all function fine. The tach reflects the drop when it cuts out and then jumps back up with the engine when it re-engages. I'll update ya'll with what we figure out at the shop.
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May 18, 2010 04:21
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You're fuel injected right? That's common enough with carbs, but kind of bizarre with FI. Both of my Volvos have had issues with just randomly cutting out at highway speed. Nothing consistent causing it, they'd just lose power for a moment and then it'd be back to normal. Volvos are weird I guess. I took the mass air out of the 940 Turbo and cleaned it off when I was replacing the filter and something I did stopped the random cutting out at cruising. Then this WOT problem popped up. but it might have always been there since I've never really tried to maintain WOT much with this car.
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May 18, 2010 06:21
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Xovaan posted:Well, when a car is at WOT, o2 sensors shut off and MAF's/AMM's tell the car to dump extra fuel into the engine. At least from what I've read. A faulty MAF would make you run lean under boost in this case, I think. My '93 with a B230F had this exact problem of running lean from a faulty MAF. Having fuel cut out like that just seems like it would be the case of the overboost solenoid being faulty or something wonky with your wastegate. Have you checked your boost gauge while the fuel is cutting out? Have you ever gotten more boost than you're used to at WOT? My friend who is an ex-Volvo technician says that he had the wastegate problem in his car which resulted in fuel cutting out. He has a 9 series, for reference. Ok then it's probably the MAF still acting up. At least they're easy to replace, just don't want to spend $300+ right now... And I'll test it out tomorrow on the way to the shop and watch the boost gauge. Never watched it before, was more concerned with the RPMs and if they guy behind me was going to run into me. LloydDobler posted:Try a junkyard fuel pump relay, the ignition system is tied to the relay so if the relay cuts out the speedo and tach go dead. Does the tach drop like a rock or slowly wind down with the motor speed? Just a possible solution, although the last time it happened to me I did get a CEL. I suggest the junkyard relay because a new relay is like $50 so I'd hate to see you waste that money on a test. Nah, tach reflects engine RPM the whole time. Never drops like the speedo does. The guy at the shop is going to take it out too and this shop has been working on Volvos exclusively for over twenty years. They've been pretty good at immediately identifying problems, but I was avoiding replacing the MAF like he suggested at the beginning of the year when it was doing the random cutting out. (not enough spare cash)
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May 18, 2010 20:23
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Xovaan posted:Just get a MAF from a junkyard or turbobricks/swedespeed/volvospeed for $45. If it takes five to get it working, bam, you just saved $50! Hey Splizwarf, you going to the yard any time soon? Our pick-n-pulls are terrible around here, never found any Volvos before the late 90's. I also need a passenger side wiper arm while you're there. Thanks.
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May 19, 2010 06:00
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Ok so we're going to replace the turbo hoses between the MAF and the turbo and then between the turbo and the intercooler. They're both very mushy and are probably collapsing it seems. I'll look at replacing the MAF if this doesn't solve the problem. Also got an exhaust leak on the third cylinder at the header. Header is rusted and bolts look to be as well, this should be fun. Gonna put it off until June I think, unless it keeps getting louder. Thanks for the help and I'll update once the hoses/pipes are replaced.
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May 20, 2010 02:19
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Splizwarf posted:Might be a run this weekend if the weather's beautiful. I'll see about a MAF and a good wiper arm (do you need perfect or perfectly functional? Cause I got two with a little rust spotting you can have for free from replacing mine). You want just one MAF or a couple? Ok nix the MAF. If you happen to come across a tan driver's side visor (arm and base as well), tan 3rd brake light cover, or the scissor jack for a 940 let me know. I think those are the only parts I still need for this thing. Oh and the warning triangle as well, but I doubt you'll see one of those. Reminder, it's a '91 940 Turbo.
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May 21, 2010 19:14
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I've been using the EPA site to track fuel costs and they have this handy chart showing my gas usage since January: (most driving is stop/go with occasional highway trips)
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May 23, 2010 21:39
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Valvoline's semi-synthetic 20w50 I believe and I've got a B230FT with 140k miles.
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May 27, 2010 14:10
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Ok so I think the cutting out was fixed by replacing the downpipe going to the turbo from the MAF. But THEN I started to notice some extra noise coming from the engine and that evolved into a loud air noise and a blown exhaust gasket on the third cylinder. It's a 940 Turbo that looks exactly like TheJeffers'. The place I take it for repairs when I can't handle it, or don't have time, wants $400 minimum to do it. I already picked up the gaskets and have pulled the headers on my Mustang many times, but the bolts on the 940 are rusted and the shop was worried they would break and said the price would go up in that situation. I don't have the cash, so am asking ya'll for any tips on this. I've been soaking the bolts in WD-40 every few days when the engine is hot to loosen them up, but haven't had a full day off to start on it yet. (It also keeps raining and I don't have access to my carport. Will I be able to reuse the bolts/nuts (they're bolts on my 302, but I don't about the red block)? I've heard of Volvo using ones that need to be replaced upon removal. Do I need to remove the turbo and disconnect the pipe going to the cat first? On the Mustang once the bolts are out it will lean over enough to get the old gasket off the block, so that's what I'm used to. I searched on turbobricks and brickboard, but nothing specific came up. Cakefool posted:2nd car I was almost orgasming in delighted excitement, the car was loving perfect. It burst into flames when I pulled up back at the dudes house. This happened on a date once...
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Jul 22, 2010 14:24
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LloydDobler posted:And I'm assuming you'll break some. Yeah this is what I want to avoid. I don't have a pulling kit and don't really have the time for the car out of commission for more than six hours at a time. Oh well, I'll see how it goes. I can't afford over $500 for a car I'll likely be selling soon (gonna get a V70R wagon next year, but need to get the Mustang painted first) Should I order the nuts from Volvo, or can I get them from Autozone or some other parts store? I might pick up new studs as well, just in case. I can sell them to the shop if I don't use them.
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Jul 23, 2010 03:43
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Splizwarf posted:For loosening, get some wax into the threads while the engine is hot. Didn't think of using wax, that's pretty logical. And thanks for the other info, I figured Volvo has something along those lines.
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Jul 23, 2010 05:16
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Ok so I got all the nuts off of the header, well had a bolt come out with a nut bust was able to separate them easily enough. Now I've got a turbo and all this other stuff in the way of pulling the header back. I really don't want to remove stuff like oil lines to the turbo and all that, what can I get away with removing to get the header off of the bolts so I can clean it and the block up for the new gaskets?
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Jul 26, 2010 16:42
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Here's a classic that someone in the thread might want: 1967 Volvo 122S All original - $3500  Click here for the full 1175x1035 image.
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Jul 27, 2010 22:42
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Got my Volvo dyno'd yesterday if anyone is interested in the results. Totally stock '91 940 Turbo with the Mitsubishi turbo. 140k miles. 116 hp @ 4700rpm 143 ft-lb @ 3900rpm  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.
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Aug 5, 2010 15:34
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Jack_Handey posted:Sounds like it's time to throw some money at your brick! Mine dyno'd 156whp and 211tq with just a cheapass MBC and a 2.5" exhaust, would've been even better if it didn't hit fuel cut. Total investment: $150. I'll be talking to the guy that's buying it about modding the engine/exhaust, but he's not the performance type. I was going to do the exhaust (it's about to come apart right before the muffler), but never found a proper turbo cat-back system. I was pretty satisfied with the power levels, so it wasn't a big priority. If he ends up wanting to do some work on it I'll get back with ya'll. Otherwise, I'll be looking for a V70R once I get the Mustang painted and am done restoring the Galaxie. Probably late next year. I miss the convenience of my old 740 wagon and want the newer style of the late 90's V70. edit sbaldrick posted:I found my problem, looks like a small crack in this hose. Off to the junk yard That battery looks terribly out of place...
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Aug 11, 2010 23:37
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After selling my 940 Turbo last year, I again want to get another Volvo and I'm going old this time around. Found a '79 265 near my place and just went to check it out today. The fuel distributor is a bit gummed up, it was in storage for like eight years, and runs rough as hell. Other than that, the body is amazing and interior is drat good other than a torn up driver's seat. It's got close to 300k miles and the AC was converted to r134a, thankfully. So the question is, does anyone have experience with the PRV 2.7L engine? It was in such odd cars as the DeLorean and is an interesting motor, being a combined effort by Puegot, Renault, and Volvo. Parts are still available with some digging and I'm willing to pull it out of the car and completely rebuild the whole thing. Volvo put in a new engine under the recall for the bad oiling system, so it's apparently the third iteration that isn't as problematic. Oh and here's what it looks like. Paint is incredible for something this old and other than a broken taillight, the rest of the exterior is killer. Chrome is still good on the luggage rack and all the trim. This guy bought it from the original owner two years ago and never got around to fixing the engine.  It was too dark for a good picture when I went and saw it earlier, that's from the listing. I'm planning on picking it up Saturday, unless we're unable to find a rebuild kit for the fuel distributor ($1400.00 for new one). I've looked on brickboard a bit and there isn't much on these engines other than a bunch of people whining about them. Also, the new parts DMC makes will apparently fit on this engine, other than the exhaust of course. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Aug 4, 2011 |
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Aug 4, 2011 04:30
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zundfolge posted:In my limited experience, rebuild parts are very rare to nonexistent for the PRV. There are plenty of gaskets and stuff out there, but stuff like the shims for the cylinder liners (which you apparently need to do it right) are simply gone, if the experience of people on Turbobricks is any indication. However, you might be OK if you leave the bottom end alone-that's not the problem area for those motors. Like you noted, it's the cams. This is very helpful, good point on the shims I hadn't thought that far. And in the end, I've got a perfectly good EFI 302, T5 and 8.8" rear end that aren't being used if the PRV isn't fixable. The body on this car is just too good to pass up and hopefully I can get him down to $500 for it. LloydDobler posted:Definitely plan on ditching both K-jet and the V6. Either V8 swap, or B230FT from a 7 or 9 series. Both swaps are decently documented and not very hard. I'd like to try and mess with the PRV first just because it's such an interesting engine, but yeah it would be an amazing vehicle to transfer a 302 into. Even another turbo red block would be fun, but I'd rather have the V8. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Aug 5, 2011 |
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Aug 4, 2011 21:08
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Went ahead and got the 265, thanks for the insight Lloyd. I updated my project thread with a few specifics and I'll be spending time in this thread again as the project moves along. It still smells like old gas, it was sitting for almost a decade, and the guy I got it from says he cleaned out the tank and put a new fuel filter on it, but it still smells like it hasn't gotten all the old gas out of the lines. Anyway, the fuel distributor is probably trashed and will need to be rebuilt. There's a video of it starting and running at the end of that thread. Goddamn the paint is terrific for such an old car. There's no way it's original, but he said he bought it from the original owner a year ago and he had taken care of it so maybe. There's a couple of rust spots on the hood and one at the base of the rear side window where water collects. I need to pull the roof rack too, as there is likely some rust under it. Interior is pretty good, other than a cracked shifter cap with the OD switch and hosed up boot. Also, the arm rest won't lock in place and rests on the rear window controls (who the hell designed this interior, it's bizarre). I've been reading alot on the stock PRV as well as the 302 swap the past few days and since the V8 kit is close to a grand, if the guy still sells it, I'm going to take the next few months and try to fix the engine its got. Volvo replaced it under some recall for the cams 150k miles ago, so it has under 200k on it at the moment and in theory it should be fixable. Current parts issues: can't find a new flame guard for the PCV system and holy poo poo is the fuel distributor expensive. Xovaan posted:Those look great in black, although yeah you need different wheels.
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Aug 7, 2011 04:47
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Quick question, I've got a '79 265 that I'm looking to get a chin spoiler for. Will any of the 240 series ones from the early 80's fit on it? They look basically identical, but I'm having to buy one online and can't fit it to the car first. (not mine, but identical) Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201320091346
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Apr 4, 2015 01:59
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zundfolge posted:You need one from a '75-'82 model. The later ones won't fit the bumper on your car. Cool, appreciate it. Hopefully this project will get going this summer. I'll be doing a really long thread on it.
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Apr 4, 2015 14:28
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mafoose posted:That's a rare bird! I've got a couple from when I first got it. Was going to try to rebuild the PRV, but nope that's insane. I've had the Mustang (on a salvage title, awaiting enough money to fix the body) sitting in the carport with a perfectly fine 302 and T5 for a couple of years and once I found TestPoints's thread I decided to just go with the project. Just needed a place with a large enough garage.  I think this is from right after I got it.   After washing it, probably from a couple of years ago.  From today. Really looking forward to washing and waxing the Volvo. Mustang's paint is a lost cause, but at least need to get all the dirt off.  Got the Mustang to start, I'll need it to pull the Volvo out enough that we can push it to the end of the driveway. Then need to tow them both to the new place and get them in the garage so I can pull the motors. Gonna be a fun summer.
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Apr 5, 2015 00:30
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Already got one typed up, just waiting to tow both vehicles to my new place before I post it in case there's a freak accident on the trip over. The budget I've put together is terrifying. Also need better photos from after I attack the Volvo with a clay bar.
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Apr 6, 2015 17:02
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Volvo 302 conversion project thread is up. This one is going to be slow for a couple of months, mostly cleaning and prep work, until my job slows down in June. Hope to have both engines out by the end of the summer when work picks up again, but who knows! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3712555
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Apr 10, 2015 01:06
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atomicthumbs posted:He got a quote of ~$1500 from his mechanic and that was the tipping point, as he wanted something bigger for his family. Man, that's not bad. Think I paid around a grand to ship the last car I bought from southern California to Texas.
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Apr 19, 2015 21:07
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WTFBEES posted:Hey can me and my long roof join this club? These look so naked without the roof rack. Speaking of old wagons, does anyone want the PRV and four speed with electronic overdrive out of the '79 265 in my project thread? The PRV isn't exactly in running condition, but the transmission seems fine. 
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Jan 2, 2024 02:10
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