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my1999gsr posted:If you have the proper tools you can easily change your t-belt, water pump and tensioner on your BEW as long as you remember that a diesel engine's timing has to be dead on before you start it. Typically when I do a diesel t-belt I paint mark the belt on the cam in 2 spots and on the crank in 3 spots to help confirm the timing is correct. It may be the way you worded it but just to be clear please tell me that you don't paint mark timing belts on an ALH. I've never worked on any PD belts so it may be possible to do them properly with marks. I also have a question about my car (95 GTI VR6). When the engine is cold (just started) it will buck and missfire (its still driveable but its very annoying) until the oil temp reaches 190ish or hotter for more than 20 minutes or so. Ambient temp does not affect the situation. Then when its warmed up it's just not as fast as it used to be. It feels like it is bogging until 5-6k rpms then vtec kicks in. I don't get any codes beside the one for the SAI since it was removed. Does this sound like a MAF failure? My other thought is the IAT or coolant temp sensor and I plan on replacing them anyway since the car has 195k on it. The MAF is expensive because its obd1 and I won't replace that unless it is suspect. I can also help with some questions in this thread, especially ALH TDI ones.
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May 1, 2010 14:45
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my1999gsr posted:Ok, on to your VR6. We've had a lot of VR6 engines with complaints like yours that ended up being bad injectors - poor drivability, bogging, misfires and the like. Without being able to watch your MAF numbers it's hard to pass or fail it but a bad MAF usually has a fault code associated with it. Same thing with the ECT - when they go bad they usually throw a code for an internal short or something similar. Do you ever have a MIL on for misfires? Your symptoms sound like a failing MAF but you're right - they're expensive to replace unless you're sure. I forget what it looks like on the VR6, but does your FPR's vacuum hose look ok? If your car were in my shop, I'd hook it up to the 5 gas analyzer and see what the emissions look like when it's running crappy - once you know if it's a lean or rich condition you can move ahead. Thanks for all the info. I had planned on having the injectors sent out to be cleaned and flow checked before I drive it again so hopefully that will eliminate that possibility. The MIL is on only for the SAI, I've checked it a few times hoping for a code for something that would help me diagnose. All the vacuum lines are in good shape since they are one of the things I always replace when I first get a car. It runs eye-burningly rich. I thought of one other thing since my post this morning. I need to replace the lifters as they are making a lot of noise. Do you know if that sound might affect the knock sensors and pull the timing? It retards something like 11 degrees if a knock sensor is tripped and I thought that also may be the cause of the bogging and slowness. I have not checked the sensors with a meter yet but its on the list of stuff to do this summer. You had me concerned with the paint marks but that does sound like a good way to check the tensioner. I always just looked at the needle and v-mark after turning it a couple times to make they were still lined up.
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May 1, 2010 22:19
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KillerFuzzball posted:This might be going a bit far back in time for this thread, but what are you guys' opinions about working on this thing? Worth it? Yes. You will have tons of fun with it just make sure its not too rusty.
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May 1, 2010 22:21
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Triikan posted:Leaky A4 There is a big drain under the battery that was clogged and causing the passengers side to get wet and ruin the trans computer in my 97. Check the sunroof drains too. They are inside the front of the door jambs and made of rubber. Squeeze them and see if anything comes out. You can also run string from a weedwacker through the holes around the sunroof to really make sure they are clean.
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May 3, 2010 14:09
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minivanmegafun posted:I have a 2008 Rabbit 5-speed. I've noticed when I open the door after the car's been off, I hear a very faint motor whirring for about a second. It's done it since the car was new, so I presume it's normal - I'm just curious what it is. Any idea? Its the fuel pump. elzergone posted:Hey cool, thanks for doing this thread That car isn't worth an engine replacement so you should just give me the car for proper disposal. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 19:49 on May 3, 2010 |
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May 3, 2010 19:46
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Bob Morales posted:Is this common with 02 Jettas? Did he just have the timing belt done about 12k miles ago? I don't know for sure on the gassers but on the TDIs the engine mount bolts are torque-to-yield and are one time use only. A lot of techs overlook that fact for some reason and put the old bolts back only to have them break. On the TDIs it sometimes takes out the timing belt and the top end of the engine.
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May 18, 2010 00:15
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Mad Dragon posted:I thought the sludging was mainly an issue with the longitudinal 1.8Ts. It is, not so much with the transverse. Very true about the tensioner, 60k belt changes to be safe. 2003-2004 weren't bad compared to the earlier MK4s but I would never buy one again besides a TDI or R32 where its worth dealing with the problems.
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Jun 3, 2010 22:07
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Autism Sundae posted:Another noob question, do 2.0t engines just run really hot? I have the fans still going for 30 seconds to a minute after I turn the engine off, and that's after a 15-minute drive in normal summer weather (75 degrees or so). Engine temp gauge is at its normal reading of course. Its normal. My 87 Scirocco and 95 GTI do the same thing.
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Jul 30, 2010 12:57
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If your going to be working on a newer dub a set of triple squares is a worthwhile investment.
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Aug 4, 2010 02:08
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:The VR6 water pump can GO TO HELL. Seriously, get a Bentley and read the instructions. I'm guessing you would get a kick of the, what, 4 lines of instructions they give you. It seriously makes zero mention of detaching the loving engine from the car. No kidding, Ive done just about everything to a VR6 except the water pump (in the car) and I dread it. Mine is weeping too. It makes me weep.
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Aug 18, 2010 03:41
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Seat Safety Switch posted:OK, today we disconnected the entire air filter/metering/fuel regulation assembly from the throttle body and ran it. Still no real change, although it continues to work when cold. We're thinking the cold start injector doesn't switch off properly and ends up running the engine stupidly rich and drowning the thing in fuel. Unplugging the control pressure actuator sensor doesn't seem to do much of anything. Starting from the top: If you suspect the cold start injector, unplug it but I don't think that is the problem anyway. A bad 02 sensor will cause it to have a wonky idle, but not die entirely. It is not the check valve, that will only cause hot start problems. It is possible that it is the CTS but most likely it is the warm-up regulator, that thing with the fuel lines going to it that is bolted to the engine block. Reference the shop manual (Bentley) for the correct fuel pressures.
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Sep 5, 2010 03:10
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SwashedBuckles posted:This may not be the right place, but does anyone happen to have a VAGCOM cable and SW for a B8 Audi in MA? Apparently all it takes is 10 minutes and changing one bit to make my passenger side mirror move down when in reverse. My last car had that feature and it makes parallel parking so much easier. I had to look it up and mine doesn't work on can-bus cars like yours but if anyone needs VAG-COM in northern CT for non-can cars your welcome to come use it as long as your not really crazy or anything. One of the coolest things I did with it was to make my windows roll up and down with the remote on my B5 Audi (when they weren't doing it on their own) plus checking codes, ect.
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Sep 9, 2010 22:32
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Humdrum Hoodlum posted:Additionally, as the VR6's use a timing chain, when do they need replacement? From what I've seen online, people only replace them when they start making noise typically. My only experience is with MK3 VR6s and I'm not sure if the (12V) MK4s ones are exactly the same but the tensioners and guides are done for at 150k miles whether they are making noise or not. The last one I did was a 96 with 160k-ish miles and the upper teflon-coated guide was wearing through into the tensioner, quietly. The upper tensioner uses oil pressure and I can only imagine that the chain would have cut far enough into it to release the oil pressure and tension and it would have jumped time. In short, the 12V VR6 chains are NOT lifetime and I wouldn't wait for them to make noise.
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Sep 12, 2010 22:02
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Exitlights, here is the best I can remember from the last time I did it: The piece all the way to the left next to the headlight switch pulls right out. Then take out the switch out by pushing in on the tab you uncover by removing the piece on the left, pull it straight out and unplug it. After that take the air vent out CAREFULLY by pulling it straight out, I use pliers covered with cloth to grab the horizontal vane to do it. Then remove all the screws that you uncover and take out the panel that is in the way. I think you have to unsnap it from the panel that goes around the gauge cluster, IIRC. After that you should be able to get to all the nuts that secure the RF module.
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Sep 12, 2010 23:28
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Opensourcepirate posted:My 98 Jetta TDI is leaking (what I assume is) diesel from the engine whenever it's running. I think it would be easiest to tell you where it's leaking from by telling you what it's near. On the side of the engine facing the front of the car, kind of near the top, there's a series of little braiding hoses going from injector(?) to injector all the way down the line. I've had those wear out and leak before, but the new leak is slightly below that. So slightly below that, there's a black plastic(?) thing that goes down to a little metal thing that looks kind of like a nut and goes into the engine. It's kind of bubbling up from where one of those meets the engine. Its probably leaking where the nozzle screws to the injector body or the washer that seals the injector to the head (most likely). Either way the injectors need to be taken out. If they are still the original nozzles and you have more than 100k miles on it they should be replaced anyway, along with the washers. They wear out, the fuel doesn't atomize as well anymore, hot spots in the bowl in the piston can happen and things can get all melty.
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Sep 16, 2010 13:25
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Beta Ray Bill posted:More questions about my 1997 Audi A4 quattro. I've been having starter issues for awhile, I've now replaced the battery, starter(solenoid) and starter wire, and it still won't start. Sometimes it clicks, sometimes it won't do anything. I found a ground strap that was broken, could this be causing the issue? I bought a new ground strap and am about to replace it. Any other ideas on what would be causing this issue? Thanks guys Did you get the recall done on the ignition switch?
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Sep 23, 2010 21:32
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veedubfreak posted:Most aftermarket ECU tunes are going to be within a pretty close margin. It's mostly about availability and price. When I had my APR tune they had the option of having a personal tune done there in case I ever decide to mod the car more. Wasn't worth the extra money to me as the tune is pretty much the only thing I'll ever do. But if you plan on putting a bigger turbo or other things like that, you might look into something like that. On that note Rocketchip offers free upgrades if you change nozzles, turbo, ect. He is kind of hard to get a hold of, however.
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Sep 23, 2010 23:30
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get out posted:My Wife's car has developed another issue. Twice today, when turning right, the battery light will come on, and the vehicle becomes difficult to turn. What is wrong this time? Was it raining? Mine does this sometimes when I hit a puddle and the belt slips.
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Oct 2, 2010 19:17
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If its a diesel and has been taken car of even a little that is a huge steal.
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Oct 13, 2010 00:27
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Shadowhand00 posted:I found a 2004 R32 at the dealer. The problem is its slightly steep going for 15888. Do you guys think I would have room for negotiation? Its in fairly good condition - been in 2 accidents. The problem with R32s getting in accidents though is even if its a really bad one they still repair them because of the high book value. Like Dropshadow said, walk away from that one. You should still get one though. I had one and it was one of the most fun cars I have ever driven and the sound can't be beat. The maintenance can be expensive if you haven't looked into it yet. The Haldex fluid needs to be changed every 40k miles and requires a special $120 tool (last I looked) if you do it yourself. The brakes are fairly expensive to replace and so are the tires. Its worth it though, so worth it. I'm sure my1999gsr can think of more, its been years since I had mine 
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Oct 24, 2010 16:57
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Shadowhand00 posted:That being said, i found this little gem on craigslist: That HAS to be a scam or it doesn't have an engine or something.
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Oct 27, 2010 19:32
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rope kid posted:Hey I finally own my R32! It only took six years! loving sweet! Nice car. I used to have a blue one. Personal preference but nothing looks better on them than the original Aristos.
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Nov 15, 2010 14:04
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Does anyone know the common reason for the MKIII gauge cluster failures? Mine just quit working  I hope its just bad solder joints.
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Dec 4, 2010 21:08
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my1999gsr posted:It's usually bad solder joints. Sometimes it's a case of poor connections at the plug for the cluster too. Thanks, I'll check those out.
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Dec 4, 2010 21:54
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Frankees car is a VR6.
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Dec 8, 2010 03:38
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It is, I think my1999gsr was thinking that your car was a 4 cylinder and in that case it would have a timing belt driven water pump.
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Dec 8, 2010 14:48
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mediaphage posted:The V6 2.8. I hear the V6 ones aren't too bad but I had a 97 1.8t and it was the shittiest, costliest car I've ever owned so you got lucky. Quattro was super fun in the snow though (those times when it would start below 50 degrees).
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Dec 9, 2010 02:49
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That's great that they did the control arms too. Those are fairly expensive and they go bad on every A4. Good luck with it, they are really nice cars when everything is working as it should. Just make sure the climate control (if they had it in 96) display works correctly, you probably came across some people that had problems with them if you are reading a lot about A4s. e: Oh, yea. Check under the battery to make sure the drain isn't plugged. If it is make SURE to check under the passenger side carpet to see if it is wet. The computer for the transmission is under there and after it gets wet enough times its destroys the computer. Also check to make sure that the transmission isn't slipping going into 2nd gear mine had a problem with that at only 58k miles. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 20:01
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My drain was clogged with leaves and such though. I bet that one is clean though because your right, that car was actually taken care of.
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Dec 11, 2010 20:23
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PoopinClumpin posted:Here's a dumb question. Where is the battery on my new car? It's a 2010 Audi S4. On my older one it was in the cowl at the base of the windshield.
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Dec 23, 2010 13:24
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Mister Duck posted:I had the exact same thing at 40k and was told it's not covered by warranty since it requires replacing the whole intake manifold. What the gently caress? It's not covered by warranty because its too much work? VWOA is so lovely.
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Jan 13, 2011 17:57
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veedubfreak posted:If I recall correctly, VW was only doing 3/36 warranties on their cars in 09, so that's why they aren't warrantying it. The "powertrain" warranty usually doesn't cover stuff like that. It's not just VWoA that does shady poo poo like this though. Ah, I thought the warranty was longer for 09. Still lovely that they wont cover a part of the engine on the powertrain though. Subjective I know but it seems I hear the most bad things about VWoA warranties.
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Jan 13, 2011 19:20
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Opensourcepirate posted:I've been pretty happy with my 98 Jetta TDI so far. Happy enough that I'm considering upgrading to a 2002 or 2003 TDI in the future. But if Honda/Toyota sold a Diesel in this country I'd be all over it. You should do that soon so I can buy your 98 
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Feb 1, 2011 19:38
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movax posted:Dumb question: my A4 actually got itself stuck in snow the other day, ended up needing some friends to help push me out (embarrassing AWD failure If you got stuck in the snow with a quattro equipped car it was 100% your fault.
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Feb 7, 2011 06:41
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Ok, if there was ice under there I'll let it slide (no pun intended) this time.
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Feb 7, 2011 17:12
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The dealer should have them.
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Feb 9, 2011 16:03
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I'd call first but they should have something like that in stock.
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Feb 9, 2011 17:21
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Break4Gold posted:I have a 1998 VW Jetta VR6, i got rid of my Cat and i failed inspection because my car failed to reach readiness status for the cats. Now my question is, can i over ride the system to reach readiness status manually with a scan tool? and also can i do it with any scan tool if its possible, or would i need a dealers scan tool? Just put a cat back on. There is no way to fool the computer that it's missing.
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Feb 15, 2011 17:46
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:My Jetta is gay. All Jettas are gay.
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Feb 19, 2011 15:08
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Quattro will ruin every other AWD system for you. Its incredible.
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Feb 21, 2011 19:55
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