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Autism Sundae posted:^^^^^ What do you have, a Jetta? It's fairly loud - like a loud fan sound. When it shuts down you'll hear a high pitched vacuum-like sound that tapers off. It really should only come on when the car is cold anyway.
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May 2, 2010 16:22
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my1999gsr posted:OK, this is a little tougher to diagnose. First, we need to figure out why it never warms up. Do you have any faults or a MIL light on? Also, has your S4 been in for the ignition coil recall yet? That it idles poorly is pretty strange - does it idle better when you've got a tank full of ethanol? Maybe it's the coolant temp sensor? Just a wild guess.
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May 3, 2010 23:54
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What does your place charge for a timing chain job on a '01 VR6? I'm almost at 90k miles on mine and would like to change at around 100k. I can do it myself but I may not have the time to do so as I know it'll take me at least 2 days due to never doing it before. (just trying to get some cost estimates vs a DIY job)
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May 4, 2010 00:19
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my1999gsr posted:It looks like we charge 6.5 hours plus parts for the VR6 but that's purely a book time estimate - we don't have enough VR6's on the road for any of us to be fast at replacing the chain on them. Figure 7 hours at $89/hr plus parts plus a little more time if there's seized bolts or any other unforseen problems. Do you have a particular reason for changing the chain? Unless it's acting up they're not a part we replace often or ever. It'd purely be a preventative measure. Engine runs like a top and is quiet (other than the normal VR6 noises). I'm typically paranoid about any car I own and I do a lot of preventative maintenance when possible. It's not the chains I'm worried about, it's the chain guides. I probably won't bother with them until I hear some rattling due to broken guides. Your price isn't bad, I've seen unofficial quotes of over 2 grand with parts.
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May 4, 2010 00:59
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my1999gsr posted:Remember, I'm only quoting from my VW "suggested repair times" catalogue and I've never personally done one (unless you count the VR6 engine in the Touaregs) so my time quote isn't gosphel although $2000 seems a little steep even with parts. I'd say the touareg counts... not like the VR6 design is that different between the variations. Thanks for your comments; much appreciated!
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May 4, 2010 01:21
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Blackdawgg posted:Sadly MKIVs are getting old enough that they have too many miles on them for me to comfortably want to buy one. Jettas seemed to be the worst but you could argue they sold a ton of them. But they all seem to have one maintenance issue or another that if left unchecked or unheeded will ruin the car. With my MKIV Passat it was the engine sludge issue. Mine ran great because I put on a big oil filter and used good quality synthetic oil. But I certainly wouldn't want to buy one now not knowing what the hell the previous owner put in. 85k miles on my '01 GTI VR6 and no issues at all. Find a good one that has been cared for and you'll be fine - just like any car.
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May 5, 2010 22:38
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primitive posted:Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height? Coil overs.
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May 7, 2010 00:19
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Sepist posted:'00 Passat VR6. I was driving about a half mile from my house, the car hadn't even warmed up yet and the temperature light went on. I pulled over, restarted the car, light was off. about 100 feet later the light comes on again, the car is halfway between cold and operating temperature, I decide to drive it home and take the gf's car. The light goes off by itself and stays off on the way home and doesn't go above normal operation temp. What color is your coolant temp sensor?
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May 8, 2010 05:22
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kimbo305 posted:Is it really true that the US didn't get manual quattro A4s for that generation? Here's a pricey 1.8T with AWD and manual: I had a 1997 2.8 Quattro A4 with a manual years ago.
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May 13, 2010 22:37
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my1999gsr posted:I'm not sure about the Quattro being a wear item - I've only replaced one unit ever and that was due to a seal failing and the diff fluid escaping. It's a shame the US didn't have a manually shifted Quattro - I just take it for granted that most of our A4s are both Quattro and manual. Any Audi that comes into my shop that isn't AWD is considered a "welfare" Audi, aside from the A3. My A4 quattro was a manual. I've seen plenty A4 quattros that are manual here in the US.
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May 14, 2010 01:18
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insta posted:VW's use a lot of XZN sockets, Torx, and metric bits. Plus, a lot of specialty tools, pins, levers, etc. They're a pain Have you ever worked on a VW? I can do most work on my GTI with basic tools. Sure there are some specialty tools/sockets that may be required but many cars require special tools depending on what you're doing.
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Jun 5, 2010 17:30
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Do you have any advice on changing a water pump in a Mark IV VR6? I noticed a small coolant leak and it's coming from the pump area so it's time to change it out. It could be the crack pipe as well but I won't know until I tear into it. Car is an '01 GTI with 87k miles. I'm going to change out the belt tensioner as well. If you have anything that will save me time or aggravation, I'm all ears/eyes. Thanks! (edit: oddly enough it's not leaking anymore and I have no clue what I did. I'm still changing it out this weekend though) wav3form fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jun 15, 2010 |
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Jun 15, 2010 11:16
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:Do you have a Bentley? If so, ignore it. The Bentley says something absurd like "take off the serpentine belt, remove the water pump bolts, remove water pump, reinstall water pump." It's like 2 steps. You're going to have to either drop the engine or raise the engine up. Best way is to remove the dogbone mount and the passenger side motor mount and then raise the engine up with a jack. May God have mercy on your soul, because this is a ridiculously hard job for something that is easy on any other car. Well i'm getting a small leak from the pass. side and that usually means the water pump. If it were the crack pipe it'd be more center I think and the thermostat housing is fine. It only leaks some times and usually after I run the AC so it could be just a hose but I will probably change out the pump regardless because I have nothing better to do. I did my own control arm bushings and I think the water pump will be easier than that. To me it looks easy anyway plus i have a good DIY someone wrote up on vortex.
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Jun 24, 2010 22:06
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coinstarpatrick posted:Anyone know how to get the side window covers off an MKIV? I have a feeling they kind of rotate forwards and off. I busted my passenger side cover pulling out of the garage, thankfully not damaging any of the inner workings of the mirror or glass. There's an access hole on the bottom of the mirror and a metal clip inside the housing. You have to yank out the mirror to see it. Poke a screwdriver through the hole and the metal clip and pry the screwdriver handle towards you and lift up on the cover. May have to fiddle with it as you lift up on the cover but that's the jist of it.
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Jun 25, 2010 22:14
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Why didn't VAG recall the VR6 coilpack? Pre-24 valve engines. There are a lot of failures due to the housing cracking and letting in moisture.
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Jul 18, 2010 05:46
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I just successfully changed the water pump in my '01 GTI (VR6). No leaks and everything still works. Scariest part was jacking the engine up but so far so good.
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Aug 18, 2010 00:43
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:The VR6 water pump can GO TO HELL. Seriously, get a Bentley and read the instructions. I'm guessing you would get a kick of the, what, 4 lines of instructions they give you. It seriously makes zero mention of detaching the loving engine from the car. Yah I have a bentley and you're right. I think it's a good manual to have but it's useless for jobs like this. If you're careful it's an easy job but I couldn't have done it without the DIYs posted at vortex. Some of the tips given saved me some time.
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Aug 22, 2010 18:23
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kimbo305 posted:I agree that people yell loud about the DSG issue, but you don't see any Camry needing its tranny serviced or replaced prematurely. Even my1999gsr has noted how big of an issue it's become for VAG. My friend has an older camry and everything has failed on that thing. He doesn't drive it too crazy but it's probably just due to age and poor maintenance. My VW hasn't given me any trouble but I tend to be very proactive about maintenance because it gives me something to do and I don't have kids so I have the time and money (usually) to do so. I guess I don't give the car a chance to give me problems and it's almost 10 years old but I also don't complain when I do have an issue. I just fix it with a hopefully better part and drive on.
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Aug 23, 2010 22:10
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Hatebreed posted:300HP at the wheels... or crank? Schrick makes a 268/264 grind that swaps in fine (or a 264/264 if you're feeling rowdy), intake will be ~300 USD with minimal gain, ~800 USD exhaust system with minimal gain (go magnaflow/borla), ~800 USD Haldex 2.0 module install + switch for non-competition modes, HPA or GIAC DSG tune (rev limit increase, staged launching), ~600 USD for whatever ECU tune you like. So far you've invested about 5k and you're not much faster. Turbo kits and the like from C2, HPA (FT-XXX kit) and other companies will run somewhere in the range of 9k for barely 350HP. Save your time and money because I've been down this road before with a MK5 R32 and it's just painful. Remember, everything IS just a bolt on, except for that delicious sounding cam. Plus it's more frustrating when you get smoked by someone in a 6k dollar Z28 with standard LS1 bolt-ons. Sure the VW has style and german je ne sais quoi but in the end it gets annihilated by Toyta Camrys. Nothing sounds better than a VR6 though.
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Sep 18, 2010 03:14
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Water pump it is. And I've gotten quotes ranging from $388 to $670. I changed the water pump myself on my '01 GTI VR6 before I sold it and it's usually done at the time the timing chain and components are replaced. I changed it because it was leaking and used a Graf pump with a metal impeller. It wasn't a bad job but you do have to jack the engine up quite a bit (at least the way I did it) and that can be a little unnerving if you've never done it before. Took me a couple hours to do.
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Dec 8, 2010 22:49
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:I hear the V6 ones aren't too bad but I had a 97 1.8t and it was the shittiest, costliest car I've ever owned so you got lucky. Quattro was super fun in the snow though (those times when it would start below 50 degrees). I had a '96 2.8 quattro and it was an excellent car.
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Dec 9, 2010 03:42
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veedubfreak posted:Hidden under shittons of plastic. I just replaced the battery in my GLI a few weeks ago and it was a giant pain in the rear end. When I had my '01 GTI I got so used to taking off 5 things to get to one thing that nothing bothers me anymore when working on cars.
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Dec 24, 2010 00:57
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Mister Duck posted:Trying to change out my rear rotors/pads on my 2009 GTI and I simply cannot get the goddamn M14 bolts on the caliper carrier to come off. I am completely lost in what to do. I tried a breaker bar with a pipe on it to extend it, but there is like no goddamn room in the wheel well. I sprayed some blaster on it as well, but that didn't do a drat thing. Are they the triple square bolts? You may need a shorter bit or get the car higer off the ground so you can use the breaker bar from below.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:36
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Mister Duck posted:GTIs are made in Wolfsburg as far as I know. I believe the GLIs are as well. My '01 GTI was made in Brazil.
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Jan 15, 2011 19:38
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Mister Duck posted:I guess that was only MKVs then. Ah ok... I know if the VIN starts with WVW it was made in Germany.
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Jan 15, 2011 19:47
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mykel posted:I'm in the market for a new car. I test drove just about everything under the sun, and currently topping the list is an Audi A3. Get the Audi if you can afford it - it's worth the premium. I like VW cars but I really like Audis even if they aren't much different in this case.
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Jan 19, 2011 01:34
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VR Cowboy posted:This is perhaps a dumb question, but I wanted to get an answer from another VW tech. That's garbage advice.
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Feb 6, 2011 01:12
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THE GAYEST POSTER posted:I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8 Turbo with a bit of an issue with the timing belt. That is, the timing belt broke. I'm getting quoted about 2100 to fix it because they have to check valves and whatever else. My question: Is there an agreed upon best place to sell broken Jettas? Can't you just get a used head from vortex and fix it yourself?
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May 18, 2011 01:40
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Rowe posted:I have zero experience working on cars. These are heated seats also so I'd have to deal with the heating element or whatever is inside. I'd love to save the $200 but do you think someone with no experience can do the switch without messing anything up? I think you can. Just take your time and ask for help if you need it... it's not rocket surgery. I remember when I changed out the water pump in my '01 VR6 GTI... I thought, drat I'm gonna gently caress this up. After jacking up the engine almost a foot I was convinced I did but it turned out just fine.
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Sep 13, 2011 02:33
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Melp posted:2000 VR6 Jetta, 112k miles, there's an awful grinding/scraping noise when I rev the engine (also present when it idles, it just sounds like it's grinding slower). It it seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow morning, but I'd kind of like to know what to expect and if I should start looking for a new car. Anyone heard of something like this before? I had an '01 VR6 (a GTI) and I never had this sort of issue. They're noisy engines but it sounds like a pulley or pulley bearing maybe? Take the belt off and run the car for a short time to see if the noise stops. The short time is so you don't overheat the car since the belt runs the water pump.
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Sep 20, 2011 01:37
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