VW/Audi Exorcism Thread

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Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

I'm thinking about ordering a new 2013 S4 in the next few months. What do you guys think of it? Review seem to pretty positive for it. Are there any problem areas that I need to keep an eye out for?

What about the electronics? I know those have been a problem with VAG products in the past. I know a few people who have had electrical horror stories with new VAG products so I'm wondering if that's still a thing or if they were just unlucky.

# ¿ Apr 9, 2012 02:31

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 06:51

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

allonblack posted:

The platform has been bulletproof. There are no common complaints with the exception of a few folks who had water pump issues in the early days of the B8. It's a fantastic car. I'm not a super big fan of the refresh, but if you like it better dive in.

I've got a fully loaded 2012 minus ADS and I couldn't be happier with it. I would suggest you at very least get the Sport Diff, and if you're on the fence about the S-Tronic transmission, drive one, it's incredible. The advanced key is also great particularly if like me you have an SO who may be driving from time to time as it auto-adjusts the seats, mirrors, etc depending on which key is used to unlock the car, bonus, you don't ever have to take your key out of your pocket.

Thanks for the info. I test drove one last week; it was a base model but it had the s-tronic transmission. One thing that I didn't realize (and had never seen mentioned in reviews of DCT/DSG transmissions) is that it rolls backwards (albeit briefly) on an incline like a manual. Not a big deal, just something I wasn't expecting.

I like the advanced key feature. My current vehicle has a similiar push button system and it's something I've really gotten used to.

# ¿ Apr 11, 2012 04:34

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

veedubfreak posted:

The DSG -is- a manual gearbox. It's just a computer controlled manual gearbox with 2 clutches and no torque converter.

Yeah, after it happened I realized why. I just wasn't expecting it at the time since I had been driving it around in automatic mode and was thinking of it as a "regular" automatic.

One thing I didn't test out but was wondering after the fact is if you're in drive but not on the gas or brake, will the car creep along like a torque converter based automatic or do you need to tap the gas pedal?

# ¿ Apr 11, 2012 18:10

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

derelicte posted:

Hello, AI reading Audi folk.

I just picked up a 2013 A3 TDI. Does anybody know of a good way to get more HP through ECU tuning? Something that's reversible or switchable when I take a trip to the dealership.

Thanks~

You need to get the ECU reflashed to stock when you take it in. Audi now hooks your car up to the scanner for every service, no matter how minor, and it does a checksum validation on your ECU. If it doesn't match up your car is flagged with a TD1 code which means that it's been modified. Dealers and Audi are using this as a way to deny any and all warranty claims on tuned vehicles. People have gotten warranty claims approved with a TD1 flag but it's usually and arduous process involving calls and emails to Audis head offcie asking them to put it in writing that they're denying your warranty claim due to your engine tune. The problem is that a lot of the stuff being denied is not remotly related to an engine tune.

Check out any Audi website and search for "TD1".

Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Dec 16, 2012

# ¿ Dec 16, 2012 02:07

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

BoyBlunder posted:

Wow, how long has this been going on? What a pain in the rear end.

They started using the TD1 flag this summer but it looks like Audi was validating ECUs for almost a year before they implemented this policy.

I can't say I blame them. Now that the S4 has gone back to FI with the supercharged V6, replacing the NA V8 of the previous two generations, Audi doesn't want a repeat of the B5 S4 fiasco where people where tuning the cars and blowing turbos all over the place only to have them replaced under warranty.

Some tunes, like APR's, allow you to switch back to the stock map. However, this will not fool the scan since it doesn't look to see what map the engine is running rather it validates the actual programming code. Since the modified ECU contains different code it will fail the test.

The dealer could always just examine the ECU and see that the seal has been broken but I doubt they'd do that unless they had reason to suspect that you had done something to the car.

Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Dec 16, 2012

# ¿ Dec 16, 2012 05:26

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

Brain Issues posted:

I'm a technician at an Audi dealership and we definitely don't check the coding on your ECU when you bring your car in. We do hook up the scanner for pretty much every service but it doesn't automatically check your car for a tune.

We'd have to run SVM (scans every control module and compares it to what the stock coding is) or check the coding manually and we're not going to do that unless we're searching for a bigger problem. Even then, I've still not heard of anyone's warranty claim being denied for just a tune or minor bolt-ons, at least at my dealership.

Here's the letter from Audi of America. As you can see, they tell the dealer to manually enter a warranty key code when things like CAIs, short shifters, exhaust systems, etc have been added to the car as it might be an indicator of further power train modifications.

Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Dec 16, 2012

# ¿ Dec 16, 2012 20:15

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

fknlo posted:

That's not even remotely legal for them to do.

Not every dealer is blanket denying coverage but people who have received a warranty denial usually pay out of pocket becuase they don't have the time or money to fight it.

One guy spent almost a month trying to get Audi to replace his valve cover gaskets under warranty becuase they were leaking. He was running an APR tune and they denied the claim. Eventually Audi said that they would do it provided he flashed his car back to stock and his car would be subject to ECU verification every time he came into an Audi dealer after that.

# ¿ Dec 16, 2012 20:22

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

sticksy posted:

Crossposting from the A/T Car Buying Thread, but I'm looking at buying an A4, most likely used/CPO from 2010-12. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=84#post410624755

A few questions:
- My company has a program for 6% MSRP off new models - if I did decide to pursue the new car option, am I more likely to be able to negotiate a better deal that that anyway?

One thing I can tell you is that since Audi refreshed the A4 for 2013 (new front and rear ends & a slightly updated interior) you can get some really good deals on remaining 2012 models. Some people are buying new 2012s for less than a CPO 2010 - 2011 car.

# ¿ Dec 17, 2012 00:43

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

I have a 2013 S4. I hit a pothole the other day and damaged the driver's side front wheel and had to have it replaced (thankfully it was a cheap set of replicas I use for my winter tires and not an OEM wheel).

Now when I drive there's a tapping / thumping noise from the front left side. There's no vibration and no issue with steering. It also only occurs when I'm on the gas or coasting. When I apply the brakes the noise goes away. I didn't notice the noise until after the wheel was replaced.

Any idea what it might be before I take it into the dealer?

# ¿ Mar 24, 2014 01:11

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

Motronic posted:

Why would you take it to the dealer?

And rotate some wheels first to see if the noise follows the tire/wheel.

Well I was going to take it to the tire place first where I had the new wheel put on. But of they don't have any idea then the dealer is my next stop.

Good idea. I'll ask them to rotate the wheels first and see if the noise moves with it.

# ¿ Mar 24, 2014 05:09

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

I've read that the B9 S4 is rumoured to come with a turbo V6 instead of the current supercharged V6. Any chance it would be the 3.6L twin turbo that's in the Porsche Macan Turbo? It's supposed to be a pretty nice engine.

# ¿ Mar 27, 2014 00:17

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

actionjackson posted:

So in my A4, I have a bit of a lack of headroom. Maybe it's because of the sunroof, but I'm 6'1" and I can't really sit in the proper position (i.e. back straight and head against the headrest) without my head hitting the roof. I end up angling the back part of the seat about 10 degrees back. And yes I have the seat in the lowest possible position. Anyone else have this issue?

I'm 6'0" and have about an inch of headroom so I can see where you're coming from.

# ¿ Apr 9, 2014 15:01

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

Trambopaline posted:

Less maintenance/mechanics specific question more purchasing advice, I have always liked the idea of owning a second gen Audi tt coupe. Is there anything specific about them I should know if i started shopping for them? Are there any major caveats about owning a relative lightly used 6-8 year old TT coupe? I'm toying with the idea and am curious about what the goon opinion/experience is.

My sister has a TT RS and puts a lot of miles on it. She really likes and hasn't had any issues other than a burnt out tail light.

# ¿ Apr 29, 2014 13:42

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

veedubfreak posted:

Anyone know if the higher end VW Audi stereos are coming with pandora capability integrated? My current car has aftermarket head unit for dvd/nav etc but no Pandora, and when I trade in for the R I really don't want to gently caress around with replacing the head unit as it seems to integrate a lot of the performance/suspension settings. Plus the XM on my current Pioneer head unit sucks donkey balls.

As of the 2014 models, no. However, that may change since Audi signed on to the group bringing Android integration to cars and hopefully they'll sign on to CarPlay like everyone else has.

# ¿ May 12, 2014 23:13

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

I have the adaptive and adjustable shocks on my S4. If you leave it in automatic mode then it puts the dampers into comfort mode. However, if you start driving "spirited" then it'll put them into dynamic mode. Honestly there's not a huge difference between the various settings. I notice it mainly on roads that are in poor shape or if I'm on a road with a lot of curves then there's a little less body roll with dynamic vs comfort.

# ¿ May 13, 2014 06:25

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

tijag posted:

But the headlights and adaptive dampers are more likely to be a source of frustration in the future when they require maintenance, rather than something I use day to day.

From reading around the suspension doesn't seem to be a problem point. The main issue is if you keep the car long enough to the point where you need to replace the dampers. Then it can get expensive. I don't recall the headlights being a particular source of problems either. I do mostly city driving and the adaptive headlights are nice in residential neighbourhoods at night.

# ¿ May 14, 2014 00:58

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

tijag posted:

When you say 'expensive to replace dampers', do you have a frame of reference for what that will cost?

I *think* people were quoting around $3 - $4K to replace all four but I could be mistaken.

# ¿ May 14, 2014 02:50

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

Yeah $4000 is the OEM electronically controlled dampers. Some people just opt for after market "regular" dampers and give up the ability to adjust the settings.

# ¿ May 14, 2014 04:46

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

No. 6 posted:

Insane. I would also be switching to normal springs/shocks at that price. How do they get around the ECU constantly throwing codes?

They don't. Switching over to regular shocks leaves you with a warning light on the dash for the dampers and you lose some of functionality of the chassis control system

# ¿ May 14, 2014 12:33

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

tijag posted:

Is the primary cause of failure basically 'wear' or miles driven?

Or is there some time component where after 10 years if you've driven 70k miles or 130k miles, it's going to fail?

It's basically just wear/miles driven.

# ¿ May 14, 2014 17:55

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

tijag posted:

I saw that the APR has the ability to swap between programs, is this the kind of thing that 'hides' the fact that you have done the ECU, if you switch back to the stock ECU before you go in to get serviced? Or is this the sort of thing where you can't undo it somehow once it's been done?

With APR, and others, you can switch between programs. Usually stock, 91 octane, 93 octane, 100 octane or something similar. It used to be enough to just switch to the stock program when you took the car in. However, now when the car is hooked up to the computer it compares the file on the car's ECU to a stock file. Unless they match up exactly it'll flag your car. he only way around that is to have the ECU re-flashed to stock before you take it in for service and then flash it back to APR afterwards. The can still sort of tell that something funny is going on if they want as the APR deal will have to reset the ECU flash counter to 0 and the dealer can, if they want to, check to see if the ECU flash counter has been reset. So while it's not proof of anything directly, you'd need an excuse as to why the ECU flash counter had been reset.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2014 03:39

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

trouser chili posted:

I've got a VCDS. Got any sources for reasonably priced ECUs?

It depends on the car you have. The newer Audis & VWs have their ECU "locked" to the car (the ECU, TCM, and BCM are all "locked" together so if on is replaced the car goes into safe mode). When you swap it the car will go into safe mode and you'll need a dealer to hook it up to their computers to unlock it.

# ¿ Jun 20, 2014 00:57

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

No, the manuals don't have a TCU. I forgot to mention that the radio/navigation/whatever head unit is also tied to the ECU, TCM, and BCM so swapping out the head unit will also put the car into safe mode.

It used to be really easy to mess around with the cars but people ended doing things like raising the boost through the roof and then putting the stock ECU back and making warranty claims when their engines blew up (the B5 twin turbo Audi S4 is a perfect example).

Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Jun 20, 2014

# ¿ Jun 20, 2014 13:38

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

veedubfreak posted:

Which cars are you referring to that the head unit causes issues? I have an aftermarket head unit in my '11 and there were no issues. I assume you're talking about these new cars where the head unit is also basically a computer to control all the bullshit in the car. As far as addons that won't kill your warranty, exhaust and suspension are good. Changing the intake is useless in most turbo cars, if anything go with a front mount intercooler if you want to make any gains on the air going in.

I know on Audis it causes issues. I have a 2013 S4 and swapping out the head unit, even for an identical one, will lock up the car.

# ¿ Jun 20, 2014 23:30

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

So Audi is finally getting on the CarPlay bandwagon (I assume VW is too). They were part of the original CarPlay syndicate but then they disappeared when it was officially announced and Audi said they were teaming up with Android for the "Open Car Alliance". Now they say they'll offer both the Android and CarPlay experience.

# ¿ Jul 2, 2014 13:56

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

I think VAG tends to underrate.

# ¿ Jul 17, 2014 03:51

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

tijag posted:

4 = Jetta
6 = Passat
8 = VW has no word for this

Right?

8=Phaeton

# ¿ Aug 12, 2014 23:23

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

two_beer_bishes posted:

Jesus christ seriously? I've been running that poo poo in my mk6 golf for the last month

Yeah there are a ton of posts about it on Audi / VW forums. As mentioned the only fix is to replace the sensor and flush the system.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2015 13:41

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

I guess it depends on how you're proportioned? I'm 6' tall and I can sit in the back of my S4. I don't have a ton of headroom but it's not like I have to slouch either.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2015 22:56

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

There are lots of threads on the various Audi forums about carbon build up being a thing on the 3.0 TFSI. It's usually solved with walnut shell blasting.

A few people are running catch can setups and they say it helps. However, there doesn't seem to be any real silver bullet solution to the issue.

Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Mar 23, 2015

# ¿ Mar 23, 2015 11:45

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

I have a 2013 S4 and I really like it. People were teasing me about all the electrical problems I was going to have but I haven't had a single issue with the car so far.

# ¿ Jun 7, 2015 02:05

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

If you take it to the dealer for any kind of service it'll get flagged. While this won't void your warranty dealers will be pretty quick to use it as an excuse to not do warranty work. The only way around it is to flash it back to stock each time before you take it in. Setting the tune to stock settings won't do it. Search some VW forums for TD1.

Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jun 11, 2015

# ¿ Jun 10, 2015 22:46

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

Mat_Drinks posted:

Anyone have thoughts regarding break in on a new VW/Audi? Salesguy said that Audi "pre breaks in their engines" which kind of sounds like bullshit.

My S4 had a "break in" portion in the manual. Just the usual "vary the RPM, don't drive at a constant RPM for a long period of time, allow the engine to warm up, etc."

# ¿ Jul 19, 2015 18:10

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

Mat_Drinks posted:

Nah, it was a Cayman sensor that failed due to static electricity if I remember correctly. I checked the new Porsche thread and couldn't find the post, I think it might have been in the old Porsche thread. Not that Lamborghini couldn't have the same issue too though.

Did it say anything about using or not using launch control? The S3 I'm buying won't have been on any test drives, but when I took one for a test drive the sales guy had me take it through the LC process (which is bonkers fun). Only after the fact did I notice it only had 300 miles on it. It was warmed up and everything, and I mentioned the low miles for LC which is when he responded with the "pre break in" stuff.

The manual doesn't specifically say anything about launch control but it does say "don't beat on the engine" in not so many words. As well, the section on launch control mentions several times about making sure the engine is properly warmed up and it's in good operating order, etc.

# ¿ Jul 19, 2015 19:10

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

veedubfreak posted:

Isn't that year one of the cars that likes to burn oil?

Anyone know where the Soundaktor(tm) is located in the new cars? Will unplugging it cause any issues, cause I really do not enjoy the fake engine noise.

It's located against the firewall as it uses the firewall for amplification. You can always pull the fuse, I don't think the circuit is shared with anything else.

Most engine noise is transmitted to the cabin through vibration. The Soundaktor isn't a speaker but is basically a scaled up version of the vibration device found in cell phones. It's not really creating "fake engine noise" (like BMW's system) but rather just amplifying existing engine noise since the the vibration is directly tied to the type of engine and engine RPM.

Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Aug 21, 2015

# ¿ Aug 21, 2015 17:59

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

AriTheDog posted:

I've been looking for a new family car, started out looking at the Sportwagen and Golf TDI, but I'd been shifting over towards the far more boring Subaru options due to the recent IIHS safety ratings on the automatic emergency braking systems for the Golf family of cars. I'm trying to reconcile the fact that while the Golf avoids all of the collisions in the Euro NCAP AEB tests, the IIHS shows it only decelerating by 1mph during the 25mph test. The IIHS test also saw poor results in on other VAG cars which I imagine use the same system?

Anyone have a clue why the Golf does so poorly in the IHS test, or know anything about the emergency braking systems used on these cars and how it compares to Subaru's Eyesight?

I assume it's the same for VWs as it is for Audis. My S4 has an emergency automatic braking system but it only works at speeds above 21 mph (or something like that) below those speeds it doesn't activate, if it has activated, a chime goes off and the system stops working. It also doesn't work on stationary vehicles, the vehicle has to be in motion otherwise it'll happily let you drive into the back of it.

There is a system available on the A6 and higher models which works at speeds below 21 mph and will bring the vehicle to a complete stop but it works in conjunction with the first system I mentioned.

# ¿ Sep 1, 2015 13:59

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

PhazonLink posted:

Hey I have a question if the VW dealer is ripping my parents off.

So recently their 2011 Jetta TDI somehow got gas in it. The dealer says it going to take several thousand $s to fix it. My dad said thats bull and all they have to do is flush the fuel system. Opinions?

http://humblemechanic.com/2012/05/24/what-happens-when-a-tdi-is-filled-with-gas/

quote:

The TDI that was in the 2002 Jetta was a GREAT engine. We refer to is as the �ALH�. That is the code that VW uses to identify that engine. If a customer were to mis-fuel that engine the repair was simple.

Pump out the gas(it�s a diesel remember)
Change the fuel filter
Add fresh diesel fuel
purge and gas left
Drive home happy

In 2009 we got the �Common Rail�. A highly advanced very complicated TDI setup. The high power, and great fuel mileage were a huge draw. Especially since we had just seen gas prices over $4 for the first time ever. With improved sales came more mis-fuel issues. Unlike the last two generations, this TDI is not forgiving what so ever. When someone puts gas in the Common Rail (CR for short), all that is takes is cranking the engine to do damage.

If the car is started, usually it will be driven until it stops running. What that means is gas is in the entire fuel system. Due to diesel and gas having totally different lubrication properties, this makes the fuel pumps fussy. They start doing bad things like coming apart on the inside, and spraying metal throughout the fuel system. The resulting repair is fuel system replacement. Every part that fuel touches gets replaced, from fuel take to fuel injector! This repair costs about $7800 for parts and labor. OUCH!

# ¿ Sep 1, 2015 16:15

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

Depends. With newer Audis you need to get the dealer to pair the keys with the car. I imagine VWs are similar.

# ¿ Sep 12, 2015 06:17

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

Uthor posted:

Well, the key separates from the buttons and works fine all on its own. And the manual has a procedure on how to get the buttons to work if they get out of sync from the car. I'm just sure if that's enough to tell the car "hey, these buttons are A-OK."

Good point, since the "controller" is the same and you're just replacing the buttons, you should be able to do it without the dealer since there would be no recoding involved.

# ¿ Sep 12, 2015 16:02

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 06:51

Mr. Apollo: Nov 8, 2000

keegles posted:

Im an Audi tech, so ill let you guys know as much info as I can(without any blowback) as we get it internally brought up to speed on this.
09-15 covers the brand new body style a3 too which I find interesting

Question for you; I have a 2013 S4 and there's an annoying squeak coming from somewhere in the rear passenger area. It happens if the rear seats are up or down and usually only occurs when I hit a bump. Is this something that's a know issue or has a simple fix? My dealer is about a 40 minute drive away and I really don't want to waste a Saturday morning going out there only to be told �\_(ツ)_/� we don't know where it's coming from, sorry.

# ¿ Sep 18, 2015 23:38

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