|
^^^^^ What do you have, a Jetta?copperblue posted:My 2001 GTI VR6 occasionally has the secondary air pump run on startup. It runs for about 1-2 minutes, during which time the car will backfire if I accelerate moderately/aggressively. Is this cause for concern? What does it sound/feel like when the secondary pump comes on?
|
#
¿
May 2, 2010 04:42
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 11, 2024 08:01 |
|
|
Are MKVI 2.0 engines CCTA? How can I check which engine I have?
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2010 14:40
|
|
|
Never mind, looks like all GTIs in CA are CBFA due to CARB. my1999gsr, do newer CBFAs have the same oil consumption issues or has that been fixed by now?
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2010 15:17
|
|
|
Is there a way to see which VW dealerships are good and which are not in a given area? I've been trying to get some hatch rattle issues fixed for a while now and apparently a local dealership that I've been to broke some plastic trim piece in the trunk (which was pointed out to me by another dealership).
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2010 17:03
|
|
|
Hey my1999gsr, I have a strange issue with my MKVI GTI (which I'm not even sure is an issue..) I've asked about it on VW forums and here, and took the car to dealers to see what they could do but nothing so far, maybe you can help me out. My GTI randomly shudders/vibrates at idle. It's pretty slight, so if I have my stereo turned up I can barely feel it if at all, but I definitely notice it. It's weird and hard to describe, feels like a pulse or series of pulses that can be felt through the driver's seat and the brake pedal, sort of like a small earthquake. It's noticeable because the idle is very smooth so every errant vibration really shows. I tried to figure out some kind of pattern to it but it happens seemingly randomly, engine temperature doesn't seem to matter, I can drive for two hours and still get it at a light. It usually starts after the car idles for 2-4 minutes (longer lights is when I notice it most), but sometimes it happens right away and sometimes doesn't happen at all. The frequency/strength of these shudders is also random, sometimes they are stronger but never to the point of being violent. RPM needle at idle is usually right below 780, but every once in a while goes down noticeably closer to 760 (it doesn't jump around, just idles a bit lower than usual every once in a while). This doesn't seem to be related to the shudders, just don't know if it's normal or not. No CEL, no strange noises, nothing strange otherwise. Dealer checked it out but I guess they scanned it for codes and couldn't find anything. At this point I feel like an idiot every time I bring it up, and I'm probably being too paranoid/retarded about the whole thing but it just feels wrong. I know that no codes doesn't necessarily mean "nothing's broken". Another thing: I've read that there was an RVU for early MKVI GTIs and my VIN falls within the range for that update. Any way to find out whether it was performed for my car?
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2010 01:31
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:There's not much I can tell you about your vibration issue. Is your GTI a stick or auto? Is there ever any noise associated with the shuddering when you feel it? There's nothing wrong with making your concern known when you bring your GTI in for service - it goes on your vehicle's record so if it develops into a problem you have it noted in your service history. Stick; no noise at all. I was told by dealership techs that it could be some pumps turning on and off but none of them seem to be sure about this, they just say something along the lines of "well there's so much stuff under the hood, it's probably normal". That's the whole thing though, I don't have any experience with these cars to know if it's normal or not. I have no idea how something like this can even be detected if it doesn't throw a CEL, and I know it goes on record but I'd rather not wait until it gets worse. I'm getting an oil change soon so I'll ask the shop tech about it. When I was at the dealer for vibration issue they told me they found and performed some kind of throttle-body update/reset. The way their service guy explained it to me is that GTI adapts to my driving style over time and it ties into throttle management somehow. Does the ECU really adapt to my driving or was he full of it, and do you have any general info on available MKVI GTI TSBs or updates?
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2010 03:45
|
|
|
If I take my GTI for an oil change but not to a dealership (I want to do one at 5K before the scheduled 10K), is that going to cause any issues with warranty? I'm assuming it won't and I'm taking it to a certified VW/Audi shop and not to Jiffy Lube, but I figured it doesn't hurt to ask.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2010 00:19
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:I have access to all the RVU/TSBs for the GTI. Is there one in particular you're interested in? Well, the RVU that I read about is for supposed engine problem that could cause some serious damage, not sure what the details were but it was for early MKVI GTIs and I guess dealerships had to test all GTIs on their lots. Do you have any records of something like that? Sorry I'm not being more specific. I'd be interested in finding out about any available RVUs/TSBs that apply to my car, of course. I'll ask one of the technicians about dual-mass flywheels when I go get my oil changed, thanks. Don't know if it's likely to fail at 4K miles. As far as vibration though, does that sound like something normal for the engine to you though (I know this is probably a bad question since you haven't seen the car)? Also, can the shop scan my car for faults in real time as it idles, or does the software only show CEL codes? Thanks again for answering so many questions.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2010 03:10
|
|
|
Oh yeah, one more - what's the effect of ECU adapting? My car has a manual so shifts won't be any smoother, but I'm assuming other things are affected. Will ECU readjust if I change my driving habits?
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2010 03:13
|
|
|
teh jhey posted:Has it always been that way or did that only begin recently? How hard are you accelerating? I'm going to check if I can feel anything similar today.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2010 20:31
|
|
|
Oh yeah, hey my1999gsr have you heard anything about GTI/A3 water pumps failing? There's a thread here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4872&highlight=water+pump but I don't know if there's a TSB out for it. It would be nice to know which cars are affected.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2010 20:50
|
|
|
teh jhey posted:It's been happening for a little while now (months). For what it's worth, it's happened both before and after I had it chipped (should I not say that with a VW tech around?) I paid attention to this today and my GTI doesn't do anything like it, I can take off from a stop pretty smoothly as long as I don't gently caress up a shift. So maybe your issue is worth a trip to the dealer, although they probably won't be happy about boost gauges etc. A.C.A.M. posted:Another thing; I have never driven another GTI so I don't know if this is normal but the gears are so notchy! You really have to push it to get it through the gate. My S2000 is a little notchy too but it's such a short throw you don't really notice, and fast changes are a breeze compared to the Polo. The 6-speed in my GTI is notchy but not to the point of grinding gears or anything. I don't have to push hard to get it into the gate, it just needs to be lined up with the gate properly, much more strict/less loose than other manual transmissions. Your gearbox is definitely abnormal though, being notchy and grinding gears aren't the same.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2010 22:03
|
|
|
Is this in California? California law requires seller to pass smog. quote:The seller is required to provide the buyer with a valid smog inspection certification at the time of the sale or transfer. Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance. If it needs parts to pass then who knows how expensive that will be, you can easily spend several hundred on replacing sensors and catalytic converter. You can buy it as-is but if it just needs "minor tweaks" to pass then why the hell wouldn't the seller fix it and jack the price. You can also "pass" smog by paying certain shops but that's obviously not legal. Also a car doesn't "go out of circulation" over a few months. Sounds like the guy couldn't pass smog, lapsed on registration which he can't renew until he gets smogged, and is now trying to offload the van quickly to someone who doesn't know any better. Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 00:26 on May 6, 2010 |
|
#
¿
May 6, 2010 00:23
|
|
|
I ground gears twice I think but those were just stupid mistakes on my part. I actually thought 1-2 was pretty difficult too, but the thing that works for me is pushing the shifter all the way to the left and back when going into second. Delayed throttle response is probably due to drive-by-wire lag.
|
|
#
¿
May 6, 2010 17:30
|
|
|
Can a VW owner take his car to an Audi dealership for warranty service or vice versa (Audi owner going to a VW dealer)?
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2010 00:21
|
|
|
Hey my1999gsr, got a question about those rubber window channels on MKVI GTI/Golf doors (they run along the window where door and glass meet, I think they're called channels?) Mine started coming off at the edges (on the end that's closer to door handle) so I took it to the dealer and they fixed it, but I noticed that I can still push them up and pull them out. Are they supposed to be glued on tight or to just clamp on? They're not really coming off, but it still seems like something that should be more secure. Also I have a pretty annoying rattle in the upper center console thing in my GTI, the one that's in the headliner right above the shifter/center vents. It has the lights and Bluetooth stuff inside and doesn't look like it's easy to take apart, the thing that rattles is the glass light panel itself. Do you think a dealership should be able to do something about it?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 1, 2010 17:17
|
|
|
I already had it fixed, that's the thing. I'm just not sure if those channels should be glued on or just held by friction. Knowing that would help me figure out if they were fixed properly or not.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2010 00:17
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:The window guide channels aren't glued - they've got rubber barbs that are supposed to hold them the metal guides. The original seals tend to fit much better than the OEM replacement parts we install but over time the rubber tends to conform better to the channels they press into. Thanks! Looks like the channel thing is a non-issue then. As for the console, It's a brand new car so it should be covered. I told the dealership about the rattle, but they're giving me the "cannot reproduce"/"we cannot guarantee that the new parts we install won't do the same thing" combo. It's a very obvious rattle, so I don't really believe that they can't reproduce it, just sounds like they don't want to do any work.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2010 14:54
|
|
|
my1999gsr, could you please look up TSB #2023248?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2010 18:34
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:It appears that this TSB is for the rear washer jet on the 2010 GTI/Golf hatchback. It outlines the diagnosis of a leaking rear jet and the installation of a one-way valve in the washer hose going to the jet. Is there something in particular you'd like to know? Thanks, yeah, it's for the leaking rear window washer like you said. I brought this issue up at the dealership before (the washer drips fluid every once in a while, usually when accelerating; mine isn't too bad but for some people it's pretty intense) and the dealership came back with the usual "cannot replicate problem" response. Should I just bring the car in and give them the TSB number? Are they still going to test drive to see if it dribbles? My issue is already on record like I said, but they might not reproduce it since it's very sporadic. Is that a pretty easy thing to fix? There's also that ticking B-pillar thing everyone seems to have but with the way things are going we might see a TSB for that in a year or so >:-[
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2010 23:52
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:Can the dealer do something about the upper center console rattles you have? Usually. The problem is who will be paying for it. If you have some warranty coverage and you've got less than 30,000 kms (IIRC) then the dealership should repair the rattle at no charge. If you don't have coverage it's not that hard to take that console down and have a look to see what's making the noise. Call your dealership and see what they say - if they won't help you then post back here and I'll give you the steps to remove the console on your own. Just to get back to this one, I finally scheduled a time to get that rattle and the rear washer taken care of - how do you guys normally go about fixing a rattle like that one? Once again, it seems to be the glass light dome housing (rattle stops when I push it up a bit, so it's just a little loose). I'm assuming this can be done by adding some foam or felt tape? Just want to figure out if dealership is loving around on this or not.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2010 20:57
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:Ever since I had my new stereo put in driver's door rattles now. My car used to be so quiet until I had people take it apart. It's always fun finding extra screws in the floorboard after having the car worked on too. This is exactly why I hate going back to the dealership for rattles and TSBs, but I don't want to do something on my own and have that ruin the warranty somehow :I
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2010 04:16
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:There's a VW-specific anti-rattle kit that has all kinds of flock, double-sided tape and assorted sound-deadening stuff and that's what we usually use to kill squeaks and rattles. They'll proably take the dome light down and attempt to isolate the noise. Make sure you have the chance to demonstrate your complaint to the tech that'll be working on your car - sometimes information gets lost between the service advisor and the shop. :/ They didn't do poo poo since the tech couldn't duplicate the noise. This is just getting irritating, I understand why they refuse to do it but I find it hard to believe that they couldn't hear it... Could you please post the instructions on taking down the dome light? Hopefully it's something I can do on my own without going back and forth between dealerships. There's also a dome light that's similar to the one up front right above the passenger seats, I hear a rattle from there that's very similar but can't really check. Oh yeah, another question before I forget again - how can I adjust the height of the rubber bump stops for the hatch (they're right above the tail lights on the MKVI)? Just want to check something Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jun 17, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2010 01:05
|
|
|
JHVH-1 posted:I think I am going to wait, especially since I missed the sale price APR were having earlier this spring. I'm waiting also, hopefully they will figure out a way to flash without pulling anything. Maybe there's a way to ask APR when/if it's coming.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2010 19:15
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:Can you post pics of both dome lights? There's a couple of different trim levels that might make a difference in removal of interior trim. Thanks for the hatch guide, didn't even realize there were screws inside the bump stops. Here's the fucker that's making the noise:  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. It gets pretty loud but also depends on how bumpy the road is, uneven or broken pavement makes it sound like a loving maraca next to my ear. I checked out the rear dome light and I don't know if it actually rattles... it might, but it's really simple and doesn't seem to be moving around in its enclosure. Here's a pic of it anyway:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. How do you guys usually treat advice on what to look at from customers? If I come in and say "Hey, this here part is making noise", would you normally follow that as a lead or disregard it?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2010 20:06
|
|
|
The parts for my rear washer arrived on Friday (I guess they had to order them? for some reason?) and I'll go in on Monday to get it fixed. I'm expecting two hours at most.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2010 21:03
|
|
|
Thanks a lot man, I'll try to get them to take a look at it again but might have to do it myself if the shop refuses. Great thread by the way, thanks for answering so many questions for everybody.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2010 08:34
|
|
|
Dr. Jackal posted:My brother says that the GTI will lose it's vroom vroom (something about the sound and accel?) after about 2 years (it also might be the lack of TLC for his car). I don't.. what? What the gently caress does that even mean.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2010 19:35
|
|
|
GTI is only worth it if you want a car that's reasonably quick and handles well. For some people, this adds to value and for others it doesn't. I really doubt a base GTI would cost 10K more, a base Golf does not cost 13 grand.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2010 21:29
|
|
|
Hey my1999grs, sorry to fill this thread with my rattle bs but the shop didn't fix the dome light rattle - drove off the lot today and it didn't seem to make noise but then it started again in the evening. Maybe there are some dealerships around here that know what they're doing but I can't seem to find them. Anyway, I'm going to open the dome this weekend and see if I can stop the noises for good, so here's some more dumb questions: do you guys just use a regular flathead to pop that panel with the honeycomb-pattern on the upper console? It seems to be sitting pretty flush with the rest of the console, don't want to break any clips off. Also do you use anything special in your rattle kit or is felt/friction tape fine? I have a roll of 3m friction tape and lots of folks seem to use it, just wondering whether you can suggest anything better. Thanks.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2010 05:50
|
|
|
Would a dealer be able to tell with MKVI GTIs though since ECU has to be pulled to do the flash (in other words will a dealer know that someone hosed with the ECU)?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2010 16:02
|
|
|
Dr. Jackal posted:(I also realized that invoice price doesn't include VW Association fees, admin fees, first tank of gas fee, advertising,... blah blah blah). None of these fees are necessary. I paid for DMV registration fees and tax, that's it. Bi-xenon headlights are a loving awesome option, I don't know how much they are on TDIs (cost about $700 for my GTI, I think) but I don't regret getting them. You should also shoot for below invoice, I don't think people are going nuts over TDI anymore. Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jun 27, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2010 18:50
|
|
|
Are you talking to several dealers? I got offers from 10-12 dealerships before buying. Don't do walk-ins though, they will not cooperate on the price (I guess they think you're a sucker and don't know how to do it online). http://www.truecar.com/Volkswagen/G...8&zipcode=95117 I don't know about your area, but invoice on a 2-door manual TDI with xenons as the only option is just over 23K and average amount paid is around $23300. I'd shoot for $22.8 This does not include taxes or registration fees. Read truecar, they will tell you which fees are bullshit (ex. advertising, storage - you don't loving pay a dealership to store the car, come on). For comparison, I got my GTI at $25049, sticker was $27340 and factory invoice was $25802. "Flying off the shelves" stuff is sales bullshit as well, they would have a waiting list if that were true. If they have them on the lot then they're not flying off the shelves. Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jun 27, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2010 22:02
|
|
|
Took the upper dome out today, there's a ton of stuff up there that can rattle. Tech put some foam tape there, didn't seem to hep so I added a bit of friction tape. It didn't make it any better though. There are three wire harnesses just like you said my1999gsr, not really secured or anything. Any chance of me messing anything up if I wrap them with friction tape or something to that effect? I'm paranoid about doing anything with wiring, thought it might affect the stereo somehow.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2010 06:44
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:Wrap the hell out of those wires. As long as you don't twist them too much (as I said they turn into a laminated wire ribbon about 4 inches after the plugs) you'll be fine. Try taking the car for a spin with the done light assembly out or hanging down and see if the rattle is still present. Cool, yeah I think it's the two plastic plug harnesses since they are right next to each other, it would make sense for them to make noise by banging against each other. One of the wires coming out of a plug is slightly exposed for some reason (I can see a bit of metal, the outer insulation level is pulled back a bit - I can take a picture I guess) and it was already that way, is that normal? :| Also, how do I take the armrest cover off from the center storage console? I popped off the lower cover that is only held by clips and saw two T20 screws, took those out but the top fabric part of the armrest didn't come off like I was expecting. It makes a bit of noise too so I'd like to put some foam in the gap between the armrest and the console itself. I definitely appreciate what you guys do more now, it's frustrating as hell to figure out which one of the tiny pieces makes a noise.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2010 23:27
|
|
|
Rattle's mostly fixed now (something still makes a bit of noise but nowhere near as bad as it was). The slightly exposed wire coming out of the connector (near the blue spot in the center of the photo):  Wrapped in friction tape:  Final result - had some trouble fitting the wires in a good way, the lower one (thinner wire that goes to the smaller box) had to move to the right so the wire curves all the way to the right edge of the white dome panel.  If you look at the picture below, the bottom connector (1) is now to the right of center with wire to the right (sorry for poo poo drawing), the second connector (2) is to the left.  Should I try and fit the wires up higher into the dome or is this more or less fine? I was worried that the wire going to the right of connector 1 would get wedged between the dome and headliner as I screwed it back in place but it doesn't seem to get clamped.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2010 19:22
|
|
|
If I'm gonna post a ton of poo poo about minor stuff with my car then might as well go all the way. Just noticed this today and don't know if this is right: the back seat cushion (passenger side) is loose, I can lift it up easily. It has this u-shaped latch but it doesn't clamp onto anything.  close-up shot - the metal latch is just moving around in that square hole.  Is there a piece missing? Just seems like the cushion should latch onto something that should be in the square opening. The cushion on the driver's side back seat is secured tight, can't really lift it up.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2010 00:34
|
|
|
DropShadow posted:If it's anything like my Audi, there's a piece missing that goes in that hole. It was missing on mine when I bought it and made a lot of noise and made the seat loose. Yeah that's what I figured, but I was wrong about window channels so I thought I'd ask. Maybe that's the rattle I keep hearing from back there, would be loving awesome if it got fixed. Why was yours missing, just never installed at the factory or you got a preowned Audi? my1999gsr posted:There's a bit of the clip left there (the black plastic rectangle in the hole) but it's broken - order 2 of them and replace both at the same time. Thanks for all your help, I'll see if a dealer will do it (I don't know if the warranty will cover those clips?) The dome light might be making some noise still, but I don't think I want to mess with it more.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2010 01:00
|
|
|
Not sure what would cause mine to be broken but they should be cheap enough even if warranty doesn't cover them. Hey since you're here, what's the trick to getting the center console armrest cushion removed? I posted about it some pages back, got as far as removing two T20 screws but it didn't come off.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2010 01:23
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 11, 2024 08:01 |
|
|
I just checked and the missing piece from that plastic seat clamp is down there. I couldn't fish it out and it's probably making some noise so I'd like to get it out - should I try to remove the seats somehow and look for it or just ask the dealer to do it when I go in to get a replacement piece?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2010 22:12
|
|