Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Autism Sundae posted:

Oh yeah, one more - what's the effect of ECU adapting? My car has a manual so shifts won't be any smoother, but I'm assuming other things are affected. Will ECU readjust if I change my driving habits?

That's a good question. My GLI is stick also and most days I just cruise to keep the gas mileage up. Other days i drive the piss out of it. I hope i'm not confusing the poor little bugger ><.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

primitive posted:

Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height?

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_6_8697_19901_19918_19919&info=Eibach_85100.140_Pro-Kit_Springs&products_id=1849

If i recall correctly, the "sport suspension" that is on most VWs is actually eibach springs. The thing to remember is, VWs in Europe don't get sold as 4x4s like they do here in the US. People here are stupid and dont know how to drive or park so they have to be higher so they don't tear the front end off. Also, I've been told they have to be higher to pass side impact tests. Unless you go extremely low with a really stiff spring, you wont hurt anything. My 04.5 gli came with springs that were 1" lower than stock and the suspension is still in perfect shape.

To the guy wanting an mk3, don't do it man. At this point, the mk3 jetta is at least 12 years old as someone else said. My 95 jetta was a giant piece of poo poo. It never left me stranded, but it did piss me off alot. Sunroof stopped working, AC blew up, random electrical gremlins. You can still manage to pick up an 05 mk4 with reasonable milage if you look. Heck my 04.5 GLI has only 56k on it. By 04/05 they had pretty much worked all the kinks out of the mk4.

veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:59 on May 6, 2010

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

hayden. posted:

Thanks for the lengthy replies. I've looked on the title and insurance and owners manual and can't seem to figure out what model it is exactly. I think it's a four cylinder. It has heated leather seats and tiptronic shifting if that helps. Also I think the original MSRP in 2002 was around 24k.

I know it's burning oil because I have to top it off for my friend all the time. It goes from top of the dipstick marker to barely visible on the dipstick in about 500 miles. I've never noticed burning oil smell or smoke though.

My biggest fear is that will this car will eat my wallet. I just recently bought a motorcycle for 1250, spent $1200 fixing poo poo on it, rode it 50 miles, and am now selling it for $1500 so I'd like to avoid that again.

Well my dad's 98 passat 1.8t went 240k+ miles on dino oil and smoked like a chimney. And he definitely did not take care of the car. 3k seems a little high due to the miles and work needed, but odds are it'll probably last you a good bit longer as a standard beater.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
Ever since I had my new stereo put in driver's door rattles now. My car used to be so quiet until I had people take it apart. It's always fun finding extra screws in the floorboard after having the car worked on too.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

JHVH-1 posted:

Yeah the US ones are encrypted and the only way to decrypt it is to get to the ECU.
They have to remove a couple security bolts and then the ECU box is glued shut or something as well. From what I read most APR installers will cut the security bolts and then just put new ones on.

So i guess flashing while in warranty isn't going to be an option anymore eh. Speaking of which, any Denver goons know a good shop for Flashing my mk4?

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

LobsterboyX posted:

Is this the place to ask about ACVW stuff? Im looking for a bus roof rack (read; long) Ive found a few reproduction ones, but im going to be cutting it up and modfying it to fit on something not very vw, so i dont want to go spend money on a nice re-pop. Are these an easy item to find, or are the reproductions the cheapest option?

You'll get a lot of pissed off aircoolers if you go chopping up an original bus rack too. Not to mention OG racks are pretty pricey. We had a 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 rack over the years and i think we sold the 3/4 for around 500 bucks.

My mk4 is an 04.5 GLI that just hit 57000 miles.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
^^^^Guess i know what i'm doing this weekend. Only 499 for a fully loaded 1.8t flash :)

I was pricing out TDI golfs and with EVERYTHING including 18s, sunroof, bodykit they top out around 29k.

If you enjoy driving and don't want just another appliance, you probably won't really be happy with a base model golf. As far as losing the "vroom vroom" whatever that means, my GLI 1.8t has 57k on it and still pulls as hard as the day I bought it. Your brother probably just doesn't keep his tuned.

Check out the '11 jettas, i think they are available as hybrids.

veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jun 23, 2010

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

King-Kong posted:

I presume this can be a hassle to bring into the dealer if you're still under warranty?

Typical response of where the dealer might want to void your warranty because of it, then you claim Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act or whatever?

P.S. I replaced the 335i with a 2008 Audi TT (2.0T, CPO, 18k miles), and wow do I love it. Pictures coming soon.

The fully loaded APR flash lets you set it to "stock" and has a lock out feature. The dealer can't tell its flashed.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
Good to know driving it like I stole it is good for it :) I usually run 87 octane, but I put 91 (high altitude so it's all i can get) in it last fill up. I had forgotten how much more pull it has. My gas mileage goes to poo poo though when i put the premium in it cause i romp on it so much more ><

http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/06/15/vw-says-hybrid-jetta-is-on-its-way/

Just so you don't think I'm out of my gourde.

veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jun 25, 2010

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
Hey gsr, can you check the parts list and tell me how much a new GLI emblem for the front of my car is? I tried googling but couldn't find the right part. My last one is somewhere in Kansas after the grill hit my windshield at 90mph ><

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
I called the dealer near me and they said they had to order it. 35 bucks :(

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
They need to bring the GTD over here. The reason the phaeton failed was that no one wants a 90,000 dollar VW.

The bigger problem is that Americans see diesel in any form as dirty and slow. Blame GM for that.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Autism Sundae posted:

There's a huge difference between "could do just as well" and "will actually do it".

Anyway, should I bring the car back to have the rear washer looked at? It's leaking even more after the TSB "fix". :I

Part of the problem is also people like myself that only have 1 car. My GLI is almost too small sometimes, especially now that I have a house to deal with. Whenever I make the 1100 mile trek home to visit my parents for Christmas, my poor car is jam packed with poo poo. 2 cats, presents, clothes, food (i drive straight through). This is why my next car will be a TDI wagon :)

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Z3n posted:

So we're considering a new car for the fiancee as she has to do a lot of driving for her job. We've pretty much narrowed things down to either a 98-03 Jetta TDI or a 98-03 Golf TDI.

I've read over this:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/new-owner-checklist-VW-TDI-mk4.htm

And it seems like it's all fairly standard stuff or things that are easy to check. My question is...are there any other particular issues we should look out for? The cars in her price range are ranging from 60k miles to 120k miles. Are there any concerns with the TDIs around those mileages?

Also, she drives to and from clients houses, and at times the clients are really close together sometimes (ie, .5 miles). Is this going to cause problems or is there something she could change when she drives the car short distances to help avoid problems? Generally her trips will be 5-10 miles, ranging from 2-12 trips per day.

Everyone seems to say that the engines are bulletproof, there's no problems with them, and that the electrics are the weak point. Any other concerns or things to be worried about? Should we shy away from modded cars? I'm plenty experienced with motorcycle mechanic stuff but not cars.

Thanks :)


Most people like to say the TDI isn't even broken in until 150k. Although with the MK3 the rest of the car will be falling apart long before you have issues with the motor.

That being said, with trips that short, you will probably be better off with a gasser.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Nermal. posted:

2004 Audi A4 1.8t. Coming up on 80k, the water pump is leaking and I heard while I'm down there it would be ridiculous not to get the timing belt done as well. I have had about 3 separate quotes for this service and they range from $700-$1800. Are there any techs that know what price I should be paying for this? That's a BIG range.

Also, what's coming up next? My old coworker was an Audi tech and he was like the 1.8t Nostradamus, predicting every single expense I've had thus far almost within ten miles on the odometer, there's got to be much more experience here. Is my turbo going to take a poo poo? Some strange sensor? What's over that next hill guys?

When my water pump poo poo itself, the additional labor/parts to do the timing belt was around 300 bucks. When my dad had his 1.8t passat timing belt done it was 1200 bucks and took them a week cause no one at that shop had ever done it before ><

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
^^^that reminds me. I need to get my car flashed this weekend before the APR sale ends.


my1999gsr posted:

Most non-VW shops just can't wrap their heads around the idea of removing the front bumper cover and partially removing the whole front end of the car to access the belt and tensioner so they screw around forever trying other methods.

That was exactly the problem. The funny part is, it was a VW dealership. Albeit in podunk texas and my dad put 120k on his car in just under 3 years. This was back in 2001, and he bought one of the first 1.8t passats from that dealership.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
From what I've read about the 1.8t and 2.0t they have some sort of evaporative cooling for the turbo so that you don't have to let it idle. My dad's 1.8t made it almost 250k miles and he never idled it before shutoff. I've been told that unless you are doing 4th gear pulls into your garage then shutting it off, there's nothing to worry about.

The thing to remember is that turbos are pretty drat common on cars these days, so they have to be built for the average moron to not destroy them.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

primitive posted:

these little oil-cooled turbos are tiiiny compared to anything you might see in a truck!

I'm pretty much not spooling the turbo for the last mile before i park anyway as i'm doing like 20mph in the neighborhood. But like i said, my dad used to drive 75+ miles each way to and from work at 80+ and never idled his and it was still going strong at 240k miles when he sold the car, so there is some sort of system in place to keep the turbo oiled and cooled after the car is turned off.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

BonzoESC posted:

Thinking about it, it could just be a function of size. A bigger turbo would have more problems caused by differential contraction than a smaller one.

Ya, the k03, k03s, and even k04 used on the Audis are really tiny turbos compared to what a diesel uses.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

minivanmegafun posted:

I'm going to be storing my 2008 Rabbit for a little under a year. After getting it scratched sitting on the street, and realizing I hadn't put gas in it in over a month, I decided it's not worth the risk of damage it has parked on the street. Anything I should do to it now?

If you don't plan to check on it during that time, I'd suggest putting it on jackstands to keep from ruining the tires.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
^^^^If you live in a normal climate and only have 1 set of wheels, 5k is usally a nice round number. I rotate mine each time I switch between summer/winter sets.

mastermind2004 posted:

I have a 2010 Golf TDI, and I need to mount a front license plate on it. Am I best off just going in and having the dealership drill the front bumper?

I've seen forums where people build out a mounting bracket using bolts, spacers, washers, and a few other things that doesn't seem to complicated, but it doesn't look exactly easy to get access in behind the grill (either top or bottom, although preferably bottom) on my Golf. Is it actually relatively easy to get in there with enough room to put the washers and bolts in to secure it to the grill?

I assume your state "requires" a front plate. But here's a better question. Are you going to be parking somewhere that you will get ticketed for not having a plate? I'm going on years with no front plate (florida car) and have only been pulled over once, and got off with a warning mostly cause the cop was probably looking for drug runners (I was going the speed limit on i-10 leaving Texas with a box truck following me, neither of us had front plates).

Personally I just hate the look of a front plate on most vehicles.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

teh jhey posted:

I'm doing some car shopping for a friend who is mildly interested in a 2010 Wolfsburg.

Originally, I'd assumed it was just a GLI with a different grill, but I took another look, and there are little things missing here and there that would normally be there on an equivalent GLI, like fog lamps, steering wheel buttons and paddles.

Further googling turned up some talk about smaller brake rotors, but that's about it.

What else is missing, and is there anywhere I can find the complete spec list on the 2010 Wolfsburg?

The wolfsburg is usually just a trim level, where as the GLI has better brakes, better suspension and the extra trim level.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
So has anyone rebuilt an air cooled motor lately? Finally getting my 59 back this weekend. I think i'm going to go ahead and just rebuild the 1200.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Zenostein posted:

I'm looking at a Jetta Sportswagen TDi, and I'd like to know if there are any particular reasons to not get one, basically.

It's not really my money, but if I get this, I'm keeping it for at least 3 years, and likely longer. As far as I know, there isn't much known about long-term reliability on the 2.0TD in the US. But I read a fair few threads that talk about the HPFP dying in the US which may or may not be related to bad diesel; is this an issue in NY?

I mean, coming off an '02 Civic Si, this won't be quite as hot off the line, but are there any known issues with this engine?

Beyond seeming to lack Parking Lights, the JSW seems like an ideal vehicle for both the rare carrying of a lot of junk (i.e. moving into a new apartment all the way across the state) and MPG. Is there anything worth noting as an issue for day-to-day driving (beyond the apparent "drive your VW hard every once in a while outside of the initial break-in period to not clog the turbo/intake") that I should note?

I have no real knowledge of VWs beyond this thread and some stray reading on the TDI forums recommended at the beginning of this thread, and my current car is a [somewhat] rev-happy 2002 Civic Si. Is there anything I should keep an eye on in a TDi beyond shifting at a reasonable RPM? (i.e. Not 4.5k/3.5k) I see a lot of complaints about the 6MT on TDiClub/MyTurboDiesel/&c., but I suspect those are just about people not used to the way the trans. shifts –– it's just a matter of getting used to the clutch/engine of a new car, right?)

Some are claiming it is difficult because the TDi cuts off the engine below a certain RPM, rather than stuttering like most cars with an MT; is this really an issue, beyond getting used to a new clutch setup?

Also, given the recent chat about turbo cooling, am I wrong in assuming that modern turbos don't really need you to sit around for a few minutes to cool off? I think in the Subaru thread they were claiming that turbo timers were just an easier way for your car to get stolen, and provide no real benefit for most users.

Sorry for the wall of text, but I don't want to end up driving a time bomb, given the general reliability of my civic (the only car I've owned) for the past 4.5-5 yrs.

The TDI sportwagon will be my next car. The thing to remember about new cars is that they are all computer controlled, so when you hit the rev limiter, there is no need to stutter, the computer just says "you get no more throttle" and turns your gas pedal off. Even my 04.5 works like that when I hit the rev limiter. As far as things to get used to, you will be going from a high revving low torque car to a low revving high torque car. The TDI will actually pull off the line faster than the civic will just because it has so much torque (especially if you mod it). If i recall though, i think the redline on the TDI is only like 5k.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

kimbo305 posted:

What is the TSI motor again, compared to the FSI? I saw a Tiguan this morning and was wondering how many people were chipping that.

The TSI is just an evolution of the FSI. The first 2.0t motors were FSI, they are TSI now, one of the big things is that they all use a timing chain now instead of timing belt.

Double post, meh

read this
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3889971

\/\/\/ And thats why my next car will be a TDI Wagon :)

veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Jul 30, 2010

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
I can't seem to get my bug to start. Anyone know what might be the problem?

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Tetraptous posted:

While we're on the top of aircooleds, I've been thinking of picking one up as a project car - preferably some variety of Type 3. Can anyone point me to a good article, or better, a book that will tell me what I should look for when finding a good vehicle?

Mostly it depends on where the car has spent most of its life. Luckily my 59 is a native Colorado car so it only had minimal body rust, no rot. Although spending 25 years in the weather with no roof (ragtop sunroof) the floors were gone. Just got it back yesterday.

When you say project, what exactly are you looking for. Something that's been in a barn for the last 20 years? Something that is already on the road? It's almost always cheaper to buy a car that someone else spent 20 grand restoring than to spend it all yourself, unless you're into that sort of thing.

My project is a 59 all numbers matching original sunroof bug. But the interior is nonexistent, it hasn't been started or driven since the early 80s and just to buy it, wheel it home and get new floorpans i'm already in for close to 3000 bucks.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Absorbs Smaller Goons posted:

I have a 2002 gti vr6 with manual transmission. The car has always been great but this morning it went very bad. At some point the dash light up like a christmas tree and then it all shut down except for the TCS light (I wasnt even triggering it on by driving hard). Then the light shut down but the wipers starting by themselves and when they reach the top of their cycle or the bottom the turn signals light up on the dash (but not outside) and the highbeams light up on the dash (but not outside). When I stop, like for a stop sign, it all stops but starts again as I drive away. I found out that if I try to use highbeams, turn signals or hazard lights or wipers it all starts acting crazy again. If i put myself on the handbrake it cures the problem for a few minutes. Turning the car off will not even stop it all, I had to unplug the battery cause the wipers were still going on and the city lights wouldn't light off. Even tried pulling the wiper fuses, I had no more control over them but they kept going on by themselves.

Help? Is there some kind of controller for the highbeams, turn signals and wipers?

Took the ignition switch out, changed it, problem still occurs. It may be a faulty hazard switch relay since I can make the problem disappear by turning on the hazards (everything goes back to normal for a few minutes) and there has been a recall for it, it affects turn signals, highbeams but not wipers? It's my next option.

I'll test the battery tomorrow and see whats up. But it could make electrical go off and on randomly? Because I'm not talking about my wipers working 50% of the time or really slowly, they just go off real slow by themselves but if I fix the problem (temporarily) they work 100%. Although it does make sense since the problem would occur after haven driven for awhile (every time I fixed it I had been stopped for some time) and the battery could run out of juice, I guess.

I took out the hazards fuse and havent had the problem reoccur since then, but I havent had the chance to use the car much.

Sounds like a short in the stalk. The highbeams and turn signals are on the same stalk correct?

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
So I had my 1.8t flashed to APR software yesterday. My god, you wouldn't think that going from 180hp to 210 could really make that much difference, but the extra torque is ridiculous when stomping around in traffic. I'm so going to get in trouble soon.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Timmy Cruise posted:

Yeah, no kidding. Try going from 150hp to 200. Do you find yourself wishing the boost stays on longer towards redline? I do and its been about 3 weeks.

Boost seems to stay fine all the way to redline. You might have a bad diverter if you are losing boost. Ya, the shop I had it done at was able to get APR to extend the sale. If you call around and ask, they said APR extended the sale price until the 12th.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
Hey gsr, can you price out the chrome strips on an 04.5GLI for the drivers side? Both doors, and the front GLI emblem?

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

VanFullOfMidgets posted:

GL is only the 4cyl non-turbo 2.0, right?

More commonly known as the 2.slow...but it really is a great engine. A little rough and mechanical-sounding, but for sure it's a great engine. Just change the timing belt and oil.

Electronics are a little wonky, but honestly, I have a 99 of the same generation as that one and I haven't had anything that's more than a minor inconvenience (3 of my door modules are out- I have to lock/unlock with the keyless entry).

GOONS I HAVE A QUESTION AS WELL

I have been looking for a 2004-05 Passat, specifically a manual V6 4motion one. Is this a decent engine? Can you tell me any more about the trouble spots on these cars?

The 2.slo good in the sense that it will pretty much run forever. But didn't the mk4 2.0 have oil consumption issues? My 95 2.0 had 150k miles on it and ran just like new (unless it was hot outside in which case the electrical gremlins cropped up).

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

scr0llwheel posted:

I'm thinking about a '10 DSG GTI. What am I getting myself into in terms of maintenance after 3ish years? Of course, I've heard about VW's electronic issues but how serious is it? I don't want to be pouring a ton of money into this car after it's already at the top of my budget.

TBH I think VWs get a bad rap. The thing to remember is that most people who buy a VW buy it because they want something sporty and are somewhat of an enthusiast. With that mentality comes a bit of the mindset that the car should be perfect. Every car has flaws, but when you take your average Camry driver, they treat the car as an appliance, so they don't tend to care if it has an issue here or there. VW people tend to be more of a vocal minority. But if possible, buy one built on a Wednesday :)

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

kimbo305 posted:

I agree that people yell loud about the DSG issue, but you don't see any Camry needing its tranny serviced or replaced prematurely. Even my1999gsr has noted how big of an issue it's become for VAG.

People also don't beat the everloving poo poo out of a Camry the way your average VW driver does. Of course things break, although the DSG issue seems more like bad design. At least a VW won't accelerate to 120 on its own while you light the brakes on fire trying to stop it. HI TOYOTA!

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

teh jhey posted:

I had this happen with my '09 GTI, except with a 4% deal. They gave me some bullshit about income-to-debt ratio and bumped me to 8%. I had the cash all along, but I would have been willing to play along if my APR was only going to be 4%.

I took the 8% deal and paid it off the next month with no penalty.

Was that a bad idea?

Is this kind of shady accounting true for all VWOA or just some shady dealers? I've never actually had a car payment other than from the Bank of Mom for my current car. (Bank wouldn't give me a loan lower than 7.5% on a private sale vehicle). I think its funny how they give you the income to debt ratio run around then charge you MORE. That seems a bit backwards eh.

On an 04/05 jetta how far should my sunroof open? The other day it kind of wierded out on me as if it jammed (pinch sensor) and then stopped. So I closed it and opened again and it went all the way into the roof. I have never been able to get it to open that far again. Normal operation is about 2 inches of the sunroof left when fully open.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

Hatebreed posted:

Local VW dealership refuses to acknowledge left front passenger speaker is blown. I'm loving sick of this and will never own another VW due to lovely dealership experience after another.

Sadly, lovely dealerships seem to be more the norm than the exception with VW these days.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
I'm still convinced VWs are only good when they're built on a Wednesday. My 04.5 GLI has been perfect. Only issue i've had with it is the brakelight switch went out and the waterpump poo poo itself, both common and easily remedied. My last jetta had all kinds of electrical gremlins though.

I'll ask this again since no one responded. My sunroof only seems to open about 90%, but if I close it and cause it to hit the pinch sensor, it will retract all the way into the roof. Any idea why it doesn't open all the way normally?

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

my1999gsr posted:

I'll have a look at a similar car tomorrow and let you know.

The funny thing is, if it hadn't bound up the other day for some odd reason (hasn't happened again on its own) I never would have even realized it could open as far as it does. Although I have always thought it was kind of lame that it didn't open all the way. I can take pictures of normal and pinched if you need.

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe
Normal operation
[img]http://img.waffleimages.com/e740cdecd5644b02378c53c0e1eff562c0b4270c/t/IMG_0109[1].jpg[/img]

Pinch censor fuckery
[img]http://img.waffleimages.com/2bcc2041ec261822c34fa189547d8b7a7f0ca1dc/t/IMG_0110[1].jpg[/img]

On a side note, she's due for 60k too.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

veedubfreak
Apr 2, 2005

by Smythe

wolrah posted:

Parts are probably a fraction of that, no more than $100 unless VW managed to invent some strange unobtainium tensioner design, but doing belts on a FWD (particularly a 6 cylinder) tends to involve cramped areas and sometimes undoing engine mounts, so most of that cost will be labor. The cost sounds reasonable to me.

Just remember, most VW jobs are 3-4 hours minimum by the book and even the shadiest mechanic charges 50 bucks an hour. So that's about right.

When my waterpump ate itself, I think it cost me around 300 extra to have the timing belt done.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply