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Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



I have a 2017 Jetta. The alternator died while on a trip. Did you know that the bottom alternator bolt on this year model is behind the tensioner pulley? Even if I could get that thing enough out of the way to access the bolt, I'm not sure I can get it past the AC lines and such. I'm like 6 months outside of my certified warranty and regretting that I haven't traded in this car on something else yet.


E: On that note, and this is probably the wrong place to ask, but does anyone have any tips for replacing this on a 2017? I can't find a decent written guide anywhere and none of the videos are relevant to my year model. For example, the majority of the videos that are of an earlier year that say they also are for 2017 have the tensioner pulley turn in a different direction than what I have to do to reduce tension. Videos say turn the tensioner clockwise while mine has to turn counterclockwise to remove it.

My dad suggested I just take the tensioner pulley off altogether to access the lower bolt, but I'm curious if anyone has any pitfalls I need to look out for specifically.

Mr. Nice! fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Jun 27, 2023

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Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



VelociBacon posted:

I think there are different motors in the 2017 jettas FYI. You're removing the belt anyways so yes I would remove the tensioner if it helps get you access.

I hadn’t thought to look it up with the engine size included and found a video of a 2016 that matches my setup. I have to remove the passenger front tire and a good chunk of the wheel shroud to have full access. Looks like I’m paying the shop next week instead of doing this myself because I don’t have a garage and I’m not doing all that poo poo in my driveway in FL heat.

I love this little car, but the cost of maintenance and upkeep out of warranty is ridiculous. I’m probably selling or trading it in.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



nitsuga posted:

What else have you had to do? Please consider that a new car will definitely cost you money every month. That is pretty much what cars do. And financing terms are likely going to be worse too.

I'm not going to get a brand new car. If anything it will be another certified used like the jetta I have now.

Under warranty I had some wheel speed sensors changed and the cooling fan for the AC. I've had one battery die, but that was a simple enough swap out.

My issue is that everything maintenance or repair work related on this car is significantly more expensive than with an American, Japanese, or Korean car. Alternators typically cost half for any of those what I paid for the reman for the VW, and I'll pay $200 more for the one the mechanic is going to put on. Hourly labor rates are higher as well, and it's just an extra expense.

I love how zippy this thing is and the fuel efficiency. I don't love the upkeep costs which are just going to grow as it ages.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



Any recommendations for an aftermarket radio that will be compatible with my backup camera and steering wheel controls? I've got a 2017 jetta with the base audio system.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



Crutchfield says I need an adapter for steering wheel controls and lists compatible radios. I wish I could just find something with more physical buttons.

I have an amp and subwoofer I put in a prior car myself, but I also put an aftermarket radio in it. It had a non-working onstar module that I was able to yank and use to power for it to power the amp.

I know some trim level of jetta has a subwoofer that goes in place of the spare tire. Is there already power in the trunk or am I going to need to run a new line through the firewall from the battery? If install was easy enough (including splicing into existing audio lines to make my amp inputs), I might skip the aftermarket radio just to keep the physical buttons that are there now.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



I don’t know why it worked, but it worked fine for years. I’ve always used 0 gauge wiring when wiring things up myself. The onstar module was powered with a standard 12v line in the car, but it had its own fuse in the fusebox which let me not sweat it too much. It powered my amp and sub on the old envoy without trouble.

I’ve never installed an amp/sub without an aftermarket radio, so I don’t have a good answer on the high pass filters. I’ve done about a dozen or so radio installs and such for friends and my own cars over the years. Penetrating the firewall is just a pain if I can avoid it.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



Pine Cone Jones posted:

I'm not sure if the Jetta's subwoofer is the same as the one in my Mk7 GTI, but here is the OEM if you need a reference.

https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen__GTI/Spare-Tire-Mount-Subwoofer--Soundbox/70346182/000051419B.html

Edit: You may have to run the wiring yourself. I'm not sure if the wiring harness is different on the trims that had the fender audio system.

That’s the one. I’m not sure if they have different wiring or not, but I know the fender version has pillar speakers in addition to the spare tire sub. I figure I’m going to have to start fresh with everything.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



I found a post of someone upgrading standard to fender audio using parts from another car, and, yeah, they use completely different wiring harnesses for both. The fender radio just has one audio I/O and all the speaker lines run from the amplifier which is mounted under the driver seat.

Mr. Nice! fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Dec 9, 2023

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



Here's something odd. Recently changed the rear brakes on my 17 Jetta. They were very worn with one of the four pads near at metal.

Popped my front tires off this morning to change the front brakes, and they've got 3/4+ worth of a pad on all four of em up front. I do use the parking brake all the time when parked, but I don't think that should lead to such a different wear pattern. Front brakes almost always wear first. Any thoughts?

I've never paid anyone to change the brakes, and I've never changed the front brakes. I've got 65k miles on the car and I'm responsible for the last 56k.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



Mr. Apollo posted:

That's really common for recent VAG cars. My last 3 Audis all needed to rear brakes changed long before the front ones. Apparently it's because the brake proportioning system is setup to favor the rear brakes in most braking situations to prevent nose diving.

That's what I assumed. Thanks for confirming!

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Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

c-spam cannot afford



I do know that the rear calipers are different to the front. Maybe that has something to do with the differential wear.

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