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At what point do I cancel my order from ECS Tuning?.... I put in an order: 4/7/2011 Expected Ship Date was: 5/13/2011 It still says "Product Inbound", even though when I originally ordered it said all items were in stock. I had emailed someone about it, and he said that it's because of the EuroJet PCV kit or something... that they are slow at getting it to them, but to me it seems a bit ridiculous to have been waiting for almost a month and half.
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May 16, 2011 15:44
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THE GAYEST POSTER posted:I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8 Turbo with a bit of an issue with the timing belt. That is, the timing belt broke. I'm getting quoted about 2100 to fix it because they have to check valves and whatever else. My question: Is there an agreed upon best place to sell broken Jettas? Out of curiosity, what was your mileage?
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May 17, 2011 16:40
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Kashwashwa posted:At what point do I cancel my order from ECS Tuning?.... Well, I happened to get another email today: "I am writing to inform you that there has been a slight delay in receiving some of the items for your order. As of the current time, we are expecting them to arrive on 6.10.11. Here at ECS Tuning, we work hard to make sure that we get your items to you in a timely manner. We are however at the mercy of our manufacturers and suppliers of the items. Please rest assured that your items are on order and as soon as our suppliers have them, we will ship them out to you as soon as possible." So I ordered early April, and am told they are expecting them to arrive June 10th... Honestly, I don't know if I can wait that long. Isn't that kind of ridiculous to ask of a customer? I'm not ordering like a $20 part either, I ordered $600 worth of parts...
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May 18, 2011 00:31
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meatpimp posted:Is it ridiculous? We don't know... what parts did you order? If it was $600 worth of spark plugs, water pumps and tune up parts, then yeah. If it was $600 worth of some rare parts imported from Germany with a lead time and delays, then no. ES#5135 Oil Filter Kit, Pack Of 5 06D115562.5 1 $51.83 $51.83 ES#251722 ECS Tuning Ultimate 2.0T BPY Engine Timing Belt Kit ES#251722 06F198001WOAF 1 $224.95 $224.95 ES#8209 Breather Update Kit ES#8209 06F198202 1 $136.08 $136.08 ES#263879 Upgraded Piston Diverter Valve, Electronic ES#263879 06H145710D 1 $84.95 $84.95 ES#5386 Magnetic Drain Plug With 10 Copper Washers - Priced Each ES#5386 ECSD001-10CW 1 $11.95 $11.95 ES#1844193 EuroJet PCV Replacement/Upgrade Kit ES#1844193 MK5PCV 1 $64.95 $64.95 I think it's the EuroJet PCV upgrade kit... I wonder if there's something available that could be used in it's place that will still accomplish what it does?
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May 18, 2011 04:57
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Jimmy Thief posted:My friend has a 98 Jetta and he's had the rear wheel bearings replaced twice by the same mechanic (second time was free) because they keep humming. It's been just a couple months and now they are humming again. It's worst from about 40-60 mph. Does he carry much weight in it? About 5 years ago I think I shot my rear wheel bearings after I carried a load of bricks in my Audi A4.
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May 19, 2011 16:07
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It took me about 2.5 hours last night to change out the diverter valve on my Jetta 2.0T... depressingly long because the bolts were ridiculously tight and corroded in. I'm pleased I didn't strip the bolts though. Also, the car is like new again - so happy it's back to normal. Now it's time to get chipped.
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Jul 12, 2011 14:28
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I just bought a Pioneer AVIC F700BT and am trying to figure out exactly what I need to install it. It seems like everyone recommends the Connects2 harness, but from what I understand it's necessary just if you want to control from your steering wheel... I don't have wheel controls though - this is exactly what my interior looks like:  Will a cheaper harness like this work just as well in my case? http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Jetta-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL6YJA
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Jul 22, 2011 17:27
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I just had the drivers side axle on my 2006 Jetta 2.0T replaced at a local suspension/brake shop. It was the CV joints that were bad, but the whole axle was way cheaper. Anyway, there's no more clicking in the CV joints, but I noticed that when I load the suspension on that side (by turning right) and accelerating pretty quickly, there is a sort of squealing noise almost like something is rubbing... I had the mechanic drive it and he noticed it but couldn't see any issues. That was at the end of day yesterday, so he said he'll have a look more in-depth today, but I'm thinking it's not something that is going to be noticeable unless the suspension is loaded... Any ideas?
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Aug 18, 2011 17:56
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weakness posted:Follow-up post: How long have you owned the car? Having oil sludge is typical in an engine that didn't have the oil changed often enough. If the previous owner (assuming there is one) hadn't changed the oil it definitely would be a maintenance issue.
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Sep 21, 2011 22:30
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timb posted:You don't even need a turboback, just 3" downpipe for stage 2 flashes. How much does this affect the sound? I'd like to remain as close to stock sounding as possible.
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Jan 9, 2012 16:06
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BoostCreep posted:The biggest problem my brain has with the S4 route is that I can get a brand new fully loaded Evo MR Touring for less than a 3 year old S4 with 40,000 miles. This doesn't make sense - in Canada they're almost the exact same price brand new. the Evo MR starts at $51,798 and the S4 starts at $53,000...
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Jan 12, 2012 21:47
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Bitcoin Billionaire posted:We've had loads of problems with old Audis, but I found a really, really good deal on a 2000 A4 2.8 that's hard to pass up. Is this a good idea or am I a loving idiot asking to lose all my money? I had a 99 A4 (though it was a 1.8T), and never had any problems with it with two exceptions. The front control arms need to be replaced every 60,000 miles (they creek and thump like crazy when they are shot), it's inevitable. And after moving a couple of loads of bricks (yes really), I wrecked the rear wheel bearings, but that was because I was young and stupid.
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Jan 19, 2012 14:56
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Motronic posted:The 1.8T is not what I would call decent. My personal story is just one anecdote, but it's the opposite. I would say I wasn't kind to my A4 with a chipped 1.8T. I bought it with 60,000 miles on it, chipped it and drove it hard for another 40,000 before I sold it to a friend. He drove it until he was sideswiped and the car was written off (another 20,000 miles?). Through that time there was never a problem with the motor. I changed the oil frequently, and it seems to me that's all that mattered. I never let the turbo cool off properly, and drove it pretty hard every day as it was my daily driver.
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Apr 23, 2012 17:20
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veedubfreak posted:This is completely correct. The 2.0 is a drat good engine, albeit slow as poo poo. My 95 had the 2.0 and ran for 150k miles before I sold with no major issues, and this was the car I had from the ages of about 19-26, so I beat the poo poo out of it daily. The vr6 is a 180hp engine, same as the 1.8t. If it's a new driver, he/she WILL get in trouble. No offense, but 180hp isn't that much guys. My brother had a GTI with the same motor, and it was great. It wasn't 'instant danger' by any means. We aren't talking about a RWD vehicle with 300hp. I'd easily consider it as a first car. In fact having more passing/merging power on the highway is a hell of a lot safer than less power. You haven't described the person either. If it's a reasonably responsible driver, there is no problem. The car will have the ability to do over 200 km/h without a problem, so if you were concerned about a 16 year old going out to see if she can top it out, then yeah, I would recommend against it. It's a very easy car to drive though, and having 180 hp doesn't change that. Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 19:24 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 19:21
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I've got a 2006 Jetta - the wheel liner in the passenger side rear wheel well is pretty much detached from the car (this is what the mudflap is attached to). Any ideas how to attach it to the car? This is what it looks like. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Rear-Fender-Liner-Splash-Guard-LH-05-09-VW-Jetta-MK5-Genuine-OE-/00/s/MTAxM1gxNTAw/$(KGrHqJ,!lIE-lL02juvBPvin3gz,w~~60_58.JPG It seems the front is attached with torx screws. It seems like if I were to use screws in the holes, they'd go into the fender... Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 16:32
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im a dumb dumb
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Oct 8, 2012 16:40
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PhancyPants posted:Diesel Owners: This is exactly why I sold my TDI... sorry I don't have more encouraging words. One tip I read that you may or may not already know - you can cycle the glow plugs a few times before starting the car to make them really hot. I usually did 3 times.
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Nov 30, 2012 15:23
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Went to go start my Jetta yesterday morning. It was quite cold, like -24 Celcius. It started, but was running really rough and then I noticed my engine light flashing yellow. I scanned the car, and it gave me a code for "Cylinder 1 misfire". I'm guessing it's a coilpack, or spark plug? Will either of those fail because of the cold though? I'm hoping it isn't something more serious.
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Dec 25, 2012 16:07
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Motronic posted:This means stop driving it NOW as it's a misfire that can cause damage to the catalyst system. Yeah, I know to immediately stop when the engine light is blinking... My wife was annoyed that I had to get someone else to give her a ride to work, but I have always told her to instantly turn the engine off if the light ever blinks. It's the 2.0T motor. I actually have a coil pack puller I ordered from ECS Tuning a looong time ago. I think I'll try swapping #1 and #2 to see if the code changes. Edit: From what I've read, #1 cylinder is closest to the timing belt (passenger side)? Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Dec 25, 2012 |
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Dec 25, 2012 17:51
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Hmm... well I can't test the coil packs now anyway. I cracked the lovely plastic engine cover in three places trying to get it off, because the grommets or whatever are so insanely tight in the cold.
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Dec 25, 2012 18:45
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Motronic posted:Yes, left to right 1-2-3-4 (when you are standing in front of the car). Yeah, good point.
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Dec 25, 2012 18:55
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I took my car to a shop in town - turned out cyl 1 and cyl 4 both had dead coil packs. $25 each, and one hour of labor wasn't too bad to stomach. Also, I really did crack the poo poo out of my engine cover so that I think it may be possible for air to get into the engine without going through the air filter. I noticed that for some reason the autotech CAI is like $100 right now... http://www.autotech.com/category/cold-air-intakes.html?fromcat=jetta-mkv-2t
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Dec 28, 2012 16:02
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Motronic posted:Your engine cover is a plastic trim piece that has nothing to do with intake air. Do you mean you've cracked part of the air filter box? The air filter is a rectangular one that fits inside of the engine cover. The crack that now exists down the engine cover has revealed a space where I can actually see the air filter, and has opened up a space above and below the air filter where it seems like dirty air could enter the engine. 
Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 28, 2012 16:34
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I'd posted a couple of weeks ago about getting coil packs replaced on my Jetta 2.0T. Everything seemed good once that was done. Well, I was just on vacation for a week and had my car parked at an outdoor parkade here in frigid Canada. I started my car, and the engine was really rough and the engine light started flashing again... it seemed like the exact same thing happened. However I decided to drive the car for a bit to go get supper and decide what to do. After supper we got back in the car, and it was perfectly fine, the car ran smooth. Is there such a thing as temporary coil-pack failure, or is there another issue, like a fuel injector on it's way out?
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Jan 13, 2013 15:15
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veedubfreak posted:My 95 Jetta had lovely brakes from the day I got it from my dad in 98. I was always surprised at how poor the brakes were in the MK3's from the factory. The exception to that being the VR6 models which had really good brakes.
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May 21, 2013 22:22
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I got a quote from a dealer near me to clean the intake for under $400... is that a pretty reasonable price? Do all dealers know what they're doing when it comes to properly cleaning it?
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Jun 4, 2013 14:07
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Motronic posted:Sure, some dealerships are good for some things, but their basic MO is to replace entier assemblies. The most recent example of this I can think of is a quote for over $450 for a complaint of a blower motor only running on high. They wanted to replace the assembly which, of course, would have resolved the issue. I resolved it in 5 minutes with s $23 blower motor resistor. That's true for dealerships regardless of the make I think though. My mom has a Civic, and Honda wanted to replace the entire throttle body ($500 + labor) because the throttle position sensor ($50 sensor) which is attached to it stopped working. Ninja edit: After re-reading your post, I think this is actually another example of what you meant. Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 19:02
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Does anyone have access to a bentley manual, or some part number database for a 2006 Jetta? I need to replace the passenger front door wiring harness, but can't find the part number anywhere online.
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Sep 5, 2013 17:38
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BlackMK4 posted:https://www.1stvwparts.com/partscat.html I've gone through those sites, they don't seem to have the door harness listed. When I typed in the part number for the drivers door (1K5 971 120 H), it shows that they can get it, but it isn't listed through their menu system either.
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Sep 5, 2013 20:01
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BlackMK4 posted:
Could be worse, I had to replace both front door actuators on my 2006 Jetta. They were $120 each.
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Oct 27, 2013 03:57
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How is it possible for VW ignition coils to be so lovely? Dec. 2012 I had to replace 1 & 4 coils. Feb. 2013 I had to replace 2 & 3 coils. Jan. 2014 I had to replace 1 & 4 coils again (oh look, 1 month past the warranty on the parts). Now, this past week, my engine light came back on, and I've been getting bucking or stuttering when trying to accelerate slowly (around 2000 rpm). Let me guess - this is ignition coils again?
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Jan 28, 2014 18:08
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Styles Bitchley posted:What car and are you modded at all? People are putting R8 coils in some of the 2.0T engines, with some claims they are actually different/better. Jetta 2.0T. I put on a CAI simply because I was sick of dealing with the engine cover (and actually cracked the hell out of it the last time I took it off), and have REVO stage 1 software. Also, trouser chili posted:I think you mean in Jan 2014 you had to replace 2&3 coils again under warranty. eh? no, it was 1 & 4 again and they were out of warranty.
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Feb 4, 2014 03:13
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Residency Evil posted:Think about it Hm, quite... you are right.
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Feb 5, 2014 01:26
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asmallrabbit posted:It only happens on left turns, only makes the sound when I'm moving, apparently random, and the car otherwise drives fine. The only thing that i can think of that might have caused it is that at the beginning of winter when i was still on my summer tires I slid into a curb with my rear tire on the passenger side very gently. It lightly scuffed the wheel but it was not a very hard impact. Any ideas what could possibly cause this? Is it while moving slowly and making fairly sharp turns? I feel like I had something like that happen, and it ended up being an axle making the noise (which didn't cost that much for parts or labor).
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Feb 20, 2014 01:58
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If you haven't taken the engine cover off before you'll think there's some latch or trick to it likely. There isn't. You have to pull the crap out of it and it pops off. The best suggestion I read is to take it off while the engine is warm, the rubber grommets or whatever are much more malleable when warm. When I tried to take mine off in the winter I literally cracked the entire cover in half.
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Jul 16, 2014 00:18
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I need to replace my door harness, but can't remove lock cover to get door skin off. I've done it a couple of times before so I know how to do it, but for reference I'm talking about the thing in step 3 of this DIY: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2984471 The problem is that the torx screw in the door that you access through the little hole keeps spinning and spinning without releasing whatever it has to, to get the lock cover out. I can tighten the screw back up, but at no point does it release the lock cover as I try to loosen the torx screw in the door. Any ideas??
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Sep 1, 2014 18:48
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Cleaned my intake valves on my 2006 2.0t. It had never been done and has 165,000 km (~103,000 miles) Before & after:   One of the injectors came out with the intake manifold so I called a local VW shop to see if I need to replace the seal. He said they basically never have to, and said it should work fine putting it back in with the manifold. I listened to him, put everything back together, and fuel is shooting out the bottom of my intake manifold  At this point I am so exhausted with the car, and don't have the tool to put the seal on anyway, that I'm just going to get someone else to do it. Moral of the story is, if you're doing your valves, pre-emptively order the seal kits, and get the tool assuming you'll have to replace them.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:00
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8ender posted:I'm so happy the PO of my car had this done at 130,000 kms. What kind of symptoms were you experiencing with the crud in the first photo? The car ran rough and had misfire codes fairly frequently.
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Mar 18, 2015 14:26
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I recently discovered on my 2006 Jetta 2.0T that I had a vacuum hose cracked from the brake booster to the vacuum pump. This was creating misfires and bad idle for a long time, when basically every bit of research I had done would say it was either coils/plugs or a part of the pcv system. Just a heads up - check for vacuum leaks if you're getting misfires or bad idle before replacing a ton of other stuff.
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May 11, 2015 16:45
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BlackMK4 posted:MK7 GTI guys - Recommended tune? Is it worth going with an aftermarket downpipe at the same time? How do they handle warranty with a tune + dp? I'm just a MKV 2.0T guy, but initially I was Stage 1 a couple years ago, then more recently went stage 2. The one discernible difference I found was its got more mid-high end torque. Highway driving is much nicer with stage 2 I've found, it just pulls so effortlessly. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure there's not really any reason going stage 2 unless you do have an aftermarket downpipe.
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Sep 4, 2015 04:47
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