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My first real irritation with the S90 (apart from the extra large button on the top to select the ring function and the too-light back wheel) If you use the ring to select focal length, it doesn't work for a couple of seconds after you take a photo. e.g. take a pic, review it and realise that you could have gone in closer, so you spin the wheel a couple of clicks and it does nothing. Even after the camera has switched from review mode, back to picture-taking mode, the ring doesn't have any effect for the first 1-2 seconds. It is surprisingly annoying. On the plus side, I just haven't needed to take it out of auto yet. It seems to handle an awful lot of lighting situations very well.
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Jun 30, 2010 01:07
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mathaeis posted:Another weird thing I noticed while playing with it in the store again yesterday was the time it took to save pictures. The Sony and Canon cameras were all pretty quick, maybe a second or two. The Lumix took about 12-15 seconds. Now, this was on internal memory, and I was told having an actual flash card in there would speed it up, but why were the others THAT much faster without a card? If a card would help, I see that memory cards now (I'm still trucking along with first gen Memory Sticks) have speed ratings, I guess 10 being the highest? Would a normal card in general fix this data saving problem, or would I need to get something like a 6 or a 10? Always read dpreview.com (it's the best source of info) http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/Q210grouptravelzoom/page9.asp It should take 2.5 seconds between shots, including focussing. Possibly that Lumix was set to RAW mode - or it was just busted. And the speed of a memory card rarely has any effect on shooting speed. Possibly some cameras might require a card of a certain speed when shooting HD video -but I am sure the review would mention it. otherwise, just buy a bog-standard card with a decent brand. spog fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jul 6, 2010 |
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Jul 6, 2010 01:39
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drat Your Eyes! posted:I just bought a Canon S90 after years of hating what my cheap point and shoot gave me (and after dropping and breaking said cheap point and shoot on a museum floor). I've always been interested in photo composition, but this is the first time I've had anything that could really be considered a decent camera. I've read up on all the functions, but have basically zero actual experience outside of just telling the camera to do macro or auto or whatever... feeling like I'm in a bit over my head right now. Are you feeling out of your head technically, or artistically? If it is the first - leave the camera on auto and go shooting. When you find a technical limitation, then that is when you read up and learn how to solve it by changing the settings. If it is the second - a good idea is to look at someone's work that you like and try to replicate it. e.g. if you a series of photos of firehydrants that looks good - go out and try to make one of your own. First time around, you are copying the other guy's work - but hopefully it will lead onto your own creativity and the second time will be your own work.
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Jul 14, 2010 03:22
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Rated PG-34 posted:LX5 is coming out soon, and it appears to address many concerns with the LX3. Does it have a built-in lens cap?
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Jul 23, 2010 05:25
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qirex posted:Whoever makes those 10MP CMOS sensors must be really happy with the trends of late. Think we have finally hit the upper-limit of MegaPixels on P&S? It must be close to the resolving limits of the lenses, so there's no benefit in adding more of them to the mix.
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Aug 20, 2010 10:03
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Have they changed around the top plate so that the on/off button is now bigger than the 'ring func.' button? (seriously, what a dumbass design decision that was)
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Aug 28, 2010 13:28
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IcedPee posted:I have never owned a camera before (and know next to nothing about them) but I'm looking into buying one to take some pictures of some various things for a project I'm trying to start and also to photograph my crotch for un-related stalking purposes. Wait, what?
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Sep 3, 2010 10:04
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IcedPee posted:Don't you judge me A small tripod (desktop) will help get good quality funzone pics and oh god, why do I know this?
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Sep 3, 2010 15:53
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webmeister posted:I'm considering buying a new P&S to take hiking and on a trip to Africa next year; I was thinking about getting a Canon G11 (or G12) since a friend had a G7 and really loved it. But I've noticed that most people here recommend the S series PowerShots, rather than the G-series, is there any particular reason for this? Weight. The G is much bigger (really...compare the two in a shop) and yet has the same sensor size and features. So, all you get from the G is nice, DSLR-feeling controls (and hotshoe flash) at the expense of losing a lot of portability.
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Sep 30, 2010 08:10
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I just found out that the S90 has a hidden clock feature: How cool is that? http://dpinterface.com/camera-news/canon-camera-flash-clock-feature/
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Oct 31, 2010 08:26
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Mightaswell posted:So I bought my fiancée a Sony W390 (W380 in the US?). It has a tendency to over expose everything, especially when using flash. I did a few un-scientific tests against a very inexpensive Samsung, and even the Samsung managed to properly expose scenes and compensate for the flash. For what it is worth, I have always found that most P&Ss tend to over expose on flash for me. I now usually leave them all dialled in at -1/-2 stops flash comp. That said, I am not a big flash fan anyway and prefer to use natural light as much as possible.
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Dec 2, 2010 04:14
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Dongsmith posted:Watch your ISO personally on the S95, as the small sensor, despite being pretty decent for what it is, does not perform real hot at 800+ ISO. It takes two clicks to change ISO if I recall correctly (my s95 is in the shop). I'd say that this is the only caveat to using the auto modes. Apart from this, they are surprisingly good. Get the right mode set and it seems to do a pretty drat good job at getting the right exposure. Have a read through the manual and see exactly what each mode does, some of them are rather clever.
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Dec 11, 2010 09:00
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I have had further thoughts about the scene modes: I'd say that some of them I use and some do not. I strongly recommend reading through the manual and seeing what each one does, before you make the decision to use it or not. For example, I find that the Portrait and Landscape settings match what I would be setting the camera to if I were using it in Manual - so they are nice, fast modes for me. But the Foliage setting makes all the green over saturated and cartoonly (in my opinion), so I don't use that one. DreadCthulhu posted:So basically try to avoid 800+ iso if possible, as the camera doesn't handle them too well? I would say that 800 is where you start to see the grain appearing and is about the point where you become aware of it. but it is just about acceptable. Beyond this and it looks a bit too obvious.
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Dec 12, 2010 08:42
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asteroceras posted:Does anyone know of a "Lomo-style" digital P&S with any or all of the following features? What a truly odd set of requirements. What is even more odd is that I know of a camera that meets them all:  http://www.amazon.com/MINOX-DCC-Leica-Digital-Camera/dp/tech-data/B000LRIU54/ref=de_a_smtd/185-5120895-5120630
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Dec 15, 2010 05:49
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caberham posted:I lost my s90 the other day I'd say that was the right answer. Go and try one in Broadway and there's a good chance you'll hand over your credit card instead of giving back the camera,
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Dec 22, 2010 04:16
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I will go to Australia soon and a point and shoot replacement will be nice. What's out in the market for a P&S? A s95?
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Fiannaiocht posted:The only thing I hate about my S90 is the lack of a viewfinder. If a point and shoot with a good viewfinder exists I would consider trading for it. What would you believe to be the point and shoot with the best viewfinder? As HPL says, the G12 is basically the S90 but with an optical viewfinder instead of the 2nd control ring. It's a big ol bugger though. I was going suggest an add on optical viewfinder (until I remembered that the S90 doesn't have a hotshoe) and had a quick look at B&H http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=optical+viewfinder&N=0&InitialSearch=yes Take a look at the prices. Keep scrolling down until you see what Lindhof want to charge.
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Dec 28, 2010 10:07
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Sad Panda posted:When I bought my Canon s95 here in Korea the battery charger came with an AC cable. I know you can get them with built in plugs but does anyone have any experience charging their NB-6L with USB? Do you mean connect the camera to USB and charge the battery? I am pretty sure you cannot do that. If you mean a separate battery charger that will work with USB as a power source - I've not seen one of those. But if such a thing did exist, it would probably be the same size as the official wallcharger and take much longer to charge - so you might as well use the official one. I found it pretty useful that the canon charger will work with my laptop power cable (cable from wall to PSU box) with a small adaptor - so I can take just a single cable with me and use it for both laptop and battery charger.
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Jan 19, 2011 10:53
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Sad Panda posted:I mean the second one. I'm going to be travelling for a while and not always have reliable access to mains electricity. I'm going to take 3 batteries, but if I had a way of charging the battery with USB then I could charge using something like http://www.amazon.com/Tekkeon-TekCharge-Mobile-Battery-Charger/dp/B0014KLX9C/ref=pd_cp_e_1 which uses AA batteries. I understand your plan, but I am dubious that it's going to give you the benefits you want: that pack only gives 800mA and the Canon battery needs 1000mA But even if it did work, I think you're end up needing something like one set of alkalines for every charge - which means you'd be carrying more weight than if you were just carrying extra lithium batteries. Not to mention the additional weight of the charger. And if you plan to buy batteries in transit, odds are that there will be a socket to charge up at anyway. Given that you can get a lithium battery from Amazon for less than $10, I'd say just to buy a couple more of them. 5 batteries = 1,000 shots which may be enough between recharge points? EDIT: http://geektechnique.org/index.php?id=236 something like this for camera batteries would be cool though.
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Jan 19, 2011 18:33
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Sad Panda posted:I think you're probably right. I'll pick up some extra batteries and run them in a cycle so I know which ones to charge. If I stop somewhere for 30+ minutes I'll set them charging. That's what I would do. Less hassle and it's easy to pack half a dozen little batteries in spare nooks and crannies. Maybe you have got a crap brand of batteries because from what I have read, the 3rd party stuff tends to work just as well as the genuine ones, but at a fraction of the cost. I believe that most of the dorkroomers will confirm this too. Just a thought - you have used them for a few cycles before you tested them, as lion batteries need about 4 complete charging cycles before they work to full capacity?
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Jan 22, 2011 07:42
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The loose ring annoys me a little as it feels a bit cheap. but I cannot say that it has given me any real problems - I've knocked it a few (<10) times when the camera was new and I was perhaps holding it in a way that made this occur more easily, but nothing recently.
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Jan 31, 2011 06:26
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MMD3 posted:these are pretty much mutually exclusive. My thoughts too. An older Canon will probably get you most of the important features, apart from the f2.8 and, as you say, CHDK can probably get you RAW out of it. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare.asp - you can have a search through the various models - but I think that most of the Canon's at that price point are much of a muchness (which is not a negative as they are universally quite good)
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Feb 4, 2011 08:03
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Stick a circular piece of tinfoil on the front of a body cap and walk through security without a lens on it, pretending you have a pancake lens. Hide a 70-210 in your underwear: down the front if you want to attract the ladies, down the back if you want a clear space left around you.
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May 6, 2011 06:02
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BetterLekNextTime posted:Also, the s90/95 seems to getting a lot more shout-outs than the G12- is that mainly because the s95 is a little cheaper and smaller, or are there other advantages over the g12? They have the same sensor and processor, so the picture quality is the same: yet while the S90 will fit in a shirt pocket, the G12 needs to be fitted with wheels and dragged around. The S90 is also 1 stop faster and as the final punch inthe G12's balls, it is cheaper. It's really a no-brainer unless you really, really need a viewfinder, a hotshoe or big buttons to play with. EDIT: to quote The Rock: quote:Canon's G series has a cult following, but I'm not a member. I prefer the smaller and lighter Canon S95, which is the same thing as the G12, in a more compact package with a better lens and a bigger LCD for $100 less. The S95 has exactly the same sensor, photo, audio and video features and performance — with a better lens and LCD — for less money and with less than half the weight. People who love the G series love it, and they still buy them. God bless the free market system!
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Jun 13, 2011 18:44
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Epi Lepi posted:I posted this about 2 weeks ago but never got a reply. In short I've got a Nikon Coolpix S560, I want to throw like 300 or 400 bucks at a new point and shoot camera, and I like to go to concerts. What's recommended as a definite upgrade to my current camera? Current camera's specs here: http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Produ...tTabs.TechSpecs You're not going to get good long distance shots in low light with a P&S, no matter how good it is. So, you can cross that requirement off your list as a realistic expectation. S90/95 have good low light performance. I believe that some of the Panasonic stuff has a pretty good rep (not a fan myself)
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Jun 16, 2011 08:55
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Tagra posted:My next step is going to be learning how to do post processing. I'm a little disappointed I can't shoot raw format in auto, but I'll learn how to do this manually pretty quick. Use P, not Auto. It's just as easy to use, but you have the ability to tweak it as necessary, plus shoot in RAW.
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Jun 16, 2011 18:50
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Tagra posted:but when I looked at it the Class 6 was actually more expensive I've noticed that Amazon often seems to be all over place with pricing. Seems that a lot of people don't bother to remove old listings/update prices and people, being dumb, continue to pay the old prices for stuff.
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Jun 19, 2011 14:17
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Takes No Damage posted:So the s90 embeds info to compensate for distortion, but my RAW viewer doesn't understand it? Guess I can try loading Canon's software and open the same image to verify. Close, but not quite: If you shoot jpg, the camera automagically corrects the distortion during in-camera processing. If you shoot RAW, no correction is applied. The various RAW convertor software can be designed to understand that the RAW they are looking at is from a particular camera and to apply a certain correction profile, based on that camera model and the focal length used. That is why, when a new camera comes out, the RAW convertors on the market will not know how to process the distortion correction until they are updated with the latest camera definition.
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Jun 24, 2011 05:21
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Except I can tell when I hate a photo, and some point and shoot cameras in the past have pissed me off by restoring the original settings the instant you look away from the camera. Are there cheaper cameras that have good manual settings? I am not afraid of learning how to take a decent picture, I just don't have the cash to drop on an S95, let alone a DSLR. And since I'm already into guns, guitars, cars, and computers, I think I have enough expensive hobbies without developing (ha-ha) a new one. It's not an ideal camera, in that it doesn't have manual or program modes, instead it relys on a range of scene modes. That said, it is perfectly possible to take good photos with this. Hell, there are some good photos out there that were taken on 1st gen iPhones and Lomos and they are both, objectively speaking, shite. Read the manual. Understand what the modes do. Look up a beginners guide on the web to work out what the various scene modes actually do and you can easily get good stuff out of it.
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Jun 26, 2011 08:05
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay. I guess it at least gives you some sort of ISO control and white balance, from looking at the manual. I'll give it a spin. As long as people that aren't photographers can't tell that the photos are bad, I should be more or less happy. It does have exposure compensation, so you are not completely at the whim of the built-in computer.
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Jun 26, 2011 08:23
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NihilCredo posted:I was looking for a low-budget option, and my search criteria ran into the Canon IXUS120IS, alias SD940. I can't see anything wrong with that. That said, you would have to try very hard to get a bad Canon P&S
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Jul 8, 2011 15:11
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Eight Is Legend posted:Is the S95 (or S90 depending on which deal you'll get) still the one to go for? I'm in Bangkok right now on holiday and desperately need a camera and figured I could get a good deal while I'm here. I have went back and forth on which camera I should get - I would really like to be able to shoot good photos at low light (parties and so on), but also don't want the camera to be bulky so I can carry it around in my pocket at night. At the same time I also want a good camera for general travel photos. I'm getting pretty interested in photography, but at the same time I don't see myself spending a lot of money on lenses since I'm a student. I'd say that the S90/S95 is probably the best choice for you as it is truly pocketable and a great travel camera. Probably acceptable for the party shots with the built-in flash. The NEX-3 is going to be better in the dark, but at the cost of extra weight/size. S90 = THB13,900 S95 = THB15,900 NEX3+18-55mm = THB20,990 7,000 baht buys you a lot of fun here. (Big Camera. Don't forget to reclaim the 7% VAT)
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Jul 11, 2011 19:57
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Eight Is Legend posted:Should I expect to pay 15,900 for the S95 here? Because that's almost the same as it would cost back in Denmark. That's the price from a leaflet I picked up 2 days ago. Good electronics are expensive here (high import duty). The cheap and cheerful stuff is better priced - the low end Canon stuff is probably comparable to the prices you'd pay back home (and they are still good cameras)
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Jul 12, 2011 05:47
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Eight Is Legend posted:Managed to get it for 12,500 with a 4 GB memory card. loving loving it so far. Good deal! Where did you get it from?
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Jul 13, 2011 11:03
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Cheesemaster200 posted:Anyone have any opinions on GPS enabled and/or waterproof cameras? I can't say that I have read the test of the GPS cameras, but my concern was that if left on all day, the GPS can be quite a battery drain. I can imagine it draining the battery of a P&S over a few days, and having to recharge every night (even if you have only taken 1 photo that day) is a pain in the arse. The alternate method would be for the GPS to turn on when you want to take a photo. As a fix would probably take more than 1 min each time, that could be annoying. Of course, I could be wrong about all this, but it is something that would concern me. Review of waterproof cameras is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfe66TUsK00 Eight Is Legend posted:Some random shop at MBK Slick! Have you bought a 2nd battery? I can recommend getting one as the supplied battery only gets 250 shots per charge without flash.
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Jul 14, 2011 14:45
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. In case it breaks, the husband of one of my sister's friends works at Canon in Denmark and can get it fixed.
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MrBlandAverage posted:I don't know about that. Was it Helmacron who dropped a D3 + tripod down an elevator shaft, killing the cat it landed on? I seem to recall him having had some pretty bad luck. Mannequin went through a stage of leaving DSLRs in taxis, I think. He hasn't reported a loss for a while - maybe he stopped drinking? Caberham, he's a suitable camera strap for you. You need to swap out one of the mittens for your new P&S: 
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Jul 29, 2011 05:46
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Oh fcuk the S90's exposure compensation wheel! You use it at a busy social event, hand it off to someone to use and they accidentally spin the wheel and dial in +2ev. You don't notice the little icon on the screen, since you are shooting people on grass - and a green icon against a green background doesn't leap out at you. Hey presto, lots of lovely, blown-out highlights. Where's the duck tape?
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Sep 18, 2011 09:57
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krushgroove posted:That's exactly what I did with my S95, got 2 batteries for very cheap and I haven't noticed any difference in battery life between the cheap ones and the OEM one. I found my 3rd party battery lasted about as long - the only difference is that when it died, it died quicker than the OEM. That said - the OEM goes from 75% full to 0% in about only 30 shots, so the 3rd party isn't much worse, practically speaking.
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Nov 8, 2011 13:10
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Walked posted:Later this month I'll be climbing Mt Washington; all snow, 10-20F at best temperature. Budget? Most SLRs work fine in the cold. The only problem is that battery life can suck (so keep them in your jacket when not in use) You just need to be careful with condensation Lots of useful info on the first page of google if you search for "dslr in freezing temperatures" (I am too lazy to retype it for you)
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Feb 29, 2012 19:35
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whatever7 posted:All camera and cellphone use the same LiIon battery. There is no magic battery that can last longer in the cold. You are better of carry a spare battery inside your jacket to keep it warm. As for the snow environment, there is nothing too hash for the 60D to handle. If you are worry just get a SLR rain jacket. If he's worried about his expensive DSLR, he could always buy a 450D plus a 28mm and sell them afterwards (or the sigma 30mm and keep it). Smaller and cheaper than the 60D, with comparable image quality. Personally, I would have more confidence in a low spec DSLR lasting better than any P&S - they seem more durable to me. And if this is a once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunity, you really should take the best sensor you can and a 450D is going to blow away any P&S you can buy.
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Mar 1, 2012 14:01
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Island Nation posted:Just bought my S100 for $380 + tax via deal thread on SA-Mart, has anyone used CHDK on their cameras and does it make a difference compared to stock firmware in terms of function or IQ? I use it on my 400D DSLR and it gives a handful of very useful functions, such as spot metering and extended bracketing IQ-wise, the only benefit is that it unlocks 3200 (1600 is the standard max ISO). It's a reversible change, so worth playing with.
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Apr 8, 2012 21:14
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