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littlebluellama
Jun 18, 2013

I am kind, brave and deserve love.
Oh, and another thing:

Claes, some of the rings on your instagram have faceted stones in bezel settings (which look really cool) Are these just really deep bezels to accommodate the pavilion of the stone, or is it open behind the bezel (with some sort of prongs or supports holding the stone far enough away that it doesn't dig into the finger)?

Sorry if this question doesn't make sense, I've only bezel set flat-backed stones.

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goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?
.

goodness fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jun 28, 2017

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


littlebluellama posted:

Two more questions about topaz:

Is the flash I'm looking for like a reflection off a veil or a spot where it has already started to cleave, or is it more like chatoyancy? When I turn my pieces around under the light, I can see some spots like veils or separations, but I also see a sort of more general glowing flash, but I'm not sure if that's a reflection from the relatively smooth natural "facets" of the other side of the stone.

Also:

Most websites I've looked at recommend setting the cleavage plane about 9 degrees off the table. Is there any reason I shouldn't just turn it 90 degrees to the table so the cleavage plane would be on the girdle, which I don't polish anyway (or would this make the area near the girdle chip off)?

thanks

It does resemble chatoyance a bit but it's all on the surface of the stone from flat polished faces. Internal cleavage is fairly common too but if it's a cutting-grade piece it's probably been selected to be clean, and internal cleavages are usually very visible. If you really need to orient the cleavage plane that way it shouldn't be a major issue, the 9 degrees is just to make sure you don't end up having any facets where you're trying to polish the cleavage plane (which is possible but a huge pain). Topaz isn't too likely to cleave during cutting if you don't do anything ridiculous.

Goodness: very nice! I think I'm seeing welo opals, a tsavorite crystal, a nice (Jeffrey's Quarry?) peach grossular, a red garnet of some description and a nice assortment of tourmalines (is the red one Russian?). Not sure about the center peachy stone, the black and white crystal to teh side or the faceted stones (unless they're Be-sapphire?)

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

Scarodactyl posted:

It does resemble chatoyance a bit but it's all on the surface of the stone from flat polished faces. Internal cleavage is fairly common too but if it's a cutting-grade piece it's probably been selected to be clean, and internal cleavages are usually very visible. If you really need to orient the cleavage plane that way it shouldn't be a major issue, the 9 degrees is just to make sure you don't end up having any facets where you're trying to polish the cleavage plane (which is possible but a huge pain). Topaz isn't too likely to cleave during cutting if you don't do anything ridiculous.

Goodness: very nice! I think I'm seeing welo opals, a tsavorite crystal, a nice (Jeffrey's Quarry?) peach grossular, a red garnet of some description and a nice assortment of tourmalines (is the red one Russian?). Not sure about the center peachy stone, the black and white crystal to teh side or the faceted stones (unless they're Be-sapphire?)

Good calls! I'm actually not sure of the identity on those last few, waiting for the notes to be sent. The tourmalines are what caught my eye first but that tsavorite is very nice. Should have them in hand by Friday and will upload more pictures

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

littlebluellama posted:

Oh, and another thing:

Claes, some of the rings on your instagram have faceted stones in bezel settings (which look really cool) Are these just really deep bezels to accommodate the pavilion of the stone, or is it open behind the bezel (with some sort of prongs or supports holding the stone far enough away that it doesn't dig into the finger)?

Sorry if this question doesn't make sense, I've only bezel set flat-backed stones.

It's all good! Basically yes, deep bezels. I think they're design dependant but can look very, very cool. Extra benefit being they give lots more protection for stones like emeralds!

I bought a ton of cool stuff that I will definitely post when I'm home. Tucson is a magical place, and with only two intensive days there my brain is basically a puddle.

Cthulhu Dreams
Dec 11, 2010

If I pretend to be Cthulhu no one will know I'm a baseball robot.

Claes Oldenburger posted:

White gold is an extremely different beast to work with. It cracks easily and often when cold worked, and is very difficult (compared to yellow gold and silver) to set stones in. Gold and its alloys hold a polish extremely well like JohnnyRnR said and will stay shiny for a very, very long time. Silver does not do this, it's okay to work with but to stay looking bright and shiny with everyday wear is pretty difficult without getting it re-polished periodically.

Massive necropost, but at the point where I'm going to hand over money for the engagement ring, and was tossing up between Platinum and White Gold.

Jeweller is quoting 6250 AUD vs 7500 AUD for the ring including the sapphire for white gold vs platinum so first instinct was to save some bucks and go with White gold, but is that fine for every day wear?

Xun
Apr 25, 2010

My gem prof says normies can't even get into the good shows with all the cool gem rough and stuff. :smith:

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

Xun posted:

My gem prof says normies can't even get into the good shows with all the cool gem rough and stuff. :smith:

Heh, by 'good shows' he's talking about the shows that suck to buy low-end stuff and cool rough. Because they feature primarily high-end already-cut material, and things from the retail side of the business.

But if you do want to get into the high-end shows to look around, filling out the paperwork can be a huge pain in the rear end... unless you get into AGTA first, because it seems that having an AGTA badge in your name is sufficient evidence that you're not a normie, and AGTA is pretty easy to get into.

Overall, I've generally had a lot more luck with Kino, Pueblo, Day's Inn, Granada, 22nd street, the Miner's Coop, and JGX. You'll often have to high grade out the best pieces of rough from a big pile, but the prices are way lower and there's a lot of variety.

What are you looking for in particular?

Tunicate fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Feb 6, 2017

AlbieQuirky
Oct 9, 2012

Just me and my 🌊dragon🐉 hanging out

Cthulhu Dreams posted:

Massive necropost, but at the point where I'm going to hand over money for the engagement ring, and was tossing up between Platinum and White Gold.

Jeweller is quoting 6250 AUD vs 7500 AUD for the ring including the sapphire for white gold vs platinum so first instinct was to save some bucks and go with White gold, but is that fine for every day wear?

From the consumer end, platinum has to be buffed every few years and white gold has to be redipped every couple of years, so maintenance is pretty much a wash.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Cthulhu Dreams posted:

Massive necropost, but at the point where I'm going to hand over money for the engagement ring, and was tossing up between Platinum and White Gold.

Jeweller is quoting 6250 AUD vs 7500 AUD for the ring including the sapphire for white gold vs platinum so first instinct was to save some bucks and go with White gold, but is that fine for every day wear?

No worries! Depending on the white gold it won't need to be re-dipped (I don't plate my white golds, because they're pretty white already). 99% of the rings I make that are white are in white gold, it works great. Platinum is also great but a different colour, more of a grey tone.


Xun posted:

My gem prof says normies can't even get into the good shows with all the cool gem rough and stuff. :smith:


Tunicate posted:

Heh, by 'good shows' he's talking about the shows that suck to buy low-end stuff and cool rough. Because they feature primarily high-end already-cut material, and things from the retail side of the business.

But if you do want to get into the high-end shows to look around, filling out the paperwork can be a huge pain in the rear end... unless you get into AGTA first, because it seems that having an AGTA badge in your name is sufficient evidence that you're not a normie, and AGTA is pretty easy to get into.

Overall, I've generally had a lot more luck with Kino, Pueblo, Day's Inn, Granada, 22nd street, the Miner's Coop, and JGX. You'll often have to high grade out the best pieces of rough from a big pile, but the prices are way lower and there's a lot of variety.

Yep basically this. AGTA was cool because I saw natural green diamonds and layouts of blue sapphires/rubies/spinels/tourmalines that make my head spin, but as far as rough goes these other places were way better.


TUCSON GEMS:



Potato phone photo but in order from top left down

Row 1:
Very dark tealy green tourmaline
Dark orange mali garnet
Heliodors
Heliodors

Row 2:
Cerium doped YAG
Tanzanite
Aquamarine
Morganite

Row 3:
Very very light pink synthetic sapphire (100 grams)

Claes Oldenburger fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Feb 7, 2017

LastDay
Aug 7, 2007
I didn't want the stupid newbie avatar

AlbieQuirky posted:

From the consumer end, platinum has to be buffed every few years and white gold has to be redipped every couple of years, so maintenance is pretty much a wash.

What about if the person I'm buying it for has sensitive skin? It looks like I'd be safe with platinum but white gold might be iffy

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Most jewelry reactions aren't from the metal; they're usually from hand lotion, soap, or moisture trapped under the ring.

In ten years I don't believe I've never seen a single case of a customer being allergic to precious metal jewelry of any type.

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


It's possible to be allergic to nickel or less commonly copper, both of which often feature in some alloys including white gold. I have a cousin who is allergic to nickel, or at least thinks she is.

Pigasus
Dec 26, 2009

Too fat to wear pink.

I've been thinking about starting to facet or cut rough stones as a hobby soon. I am in the Bay Area and I was thinking about going to the Mineral & Gem Society of Castro Valley workshop or the San Francisco Gem & Mineral Society to see if this is something I can do long term before buying the equipment.

Does anyone have any recommendations about what else I should do if I wanted to start out as an amateur lapidary?

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

Scarodactyl posted:

It's possible to be allergic to nickel or less commonly copper, both of which often feature in some alloys including white gold. I have a cousin who is allergic to nickel, or at least thinks she is.

My husband found out he was allergic to nickel when he started wearing his wedding ring. He said he was allergic to marriage, but a titanium band fixed him up.

Dr. Fraiser Chain
May 18, 2004

Redlining my shit posting machine


Pigasus posted:

I've been thinking about starting to facet or cut rough stones as a hobby soon. I am in the Bay Area and I was thinking about going to the Mineral & Gem Society of Castro Valley workshop or the San Francisco Gem & Mineral Society to see if this is something I can do long term before buying the equipment.

Does anyone have any recommendations about what else I should do if I wanted to start out as an amateur lapidary?

I'm actually super interested in this and I'm near the bay area as well

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Pigasus posted:

I've been thinking about starting to facet or cut rough stones as a hobby soon. I am in the Bay Area and I was thinking about going to the Mineral & Gem Society of Castro Valley workshop or the San Francisco Gem & Mineral Society to see if this is something I can do long term before buying the equipment.

Does anyone have any recommendations about what else I should do if I wanted to start out as an amateur lapidary?


Goodpancakes posted:

I'm actually super interested in this and I'm near the bay area as well

Best thing you can do is take a class to see if you like it, either faceting or cabbing whichever seems to be most interesting to you. Once that's out of the way you'll have an idea of the process, and then can buy tools based on your budget and what you want to accomplish. After 7 months of doing it so far, there's no turning back :D it's really, really satisfying taking rough to a finished stone and even more so when you see it in jewellery.

Xun
Apr 25, 2010

Pigasus posted:

I've been thinking about starting to facet or cut rough stones as a hobby soon. I am in the Bay Area and I was thinking about going to the Mineral & Gem Society of Castro Valley workshop or the San Francisco Gem & Mineral Society to see if this is something I can do long term before buying the equipment.

Does anyone have any recommendations about what else I should do if I wanted to start out as an amateur lapidary?

Goodpancakes posted:

I'm actually super interested in this and I'm near the bay area as well

I'm not sure what the gem society has for sale or includes with their classes, but if they want you to bring your own quartz rough is a really good starting material! Synthetic is even better because it's cheaper and can come in quite bright colors. It is a lot harder to find though, at least for me. I personally don't like faceting glass, although my only attempt has been with some uranium glass and having it fall apart on me before I even got done cutting it with a gem saw.

AlbieQuirky
Oct 9, 2012

Just me and my 🌊dragon🐉 hanging out

LastDay posted:

What about if the person I'm buying it for has sensitive skin? It looks like I'd be safe with platinum but white gold might be iffy

I am pretty heavily allergic to nickel in base metal compounds and have never had any issues with white gold, for one random datapoint. On the other hand, if the white gold didn't work for her, you'd be out a bit more than the current $1250 differential between the gold and the platinum to replace the ring after the fact. On the third hand, maybe she'll like white gold more (I do, especially with sapphires).

You can order nickel-free white gold, which is more expensive than standard but still less than platinum. My understanding is that it's a gold/palladium alloy? Maybe one of the jewelers will explain more.

Claes Oldenburger, it's good to hear there are white golds out there now that don't need re-dipping! All my white gold rings are 30 - 90 years old, so they do. This makes me more interested in adding a white gold anniversary band in the future!

AlbieQuirky fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Feb 10, 2017

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

AlbieQuirky posted:

I am pretty heavily allergic to nickel in base metal compounds and have never had any issues with white gold, for one random datapoint. On the other hand, if the white gold didn't work for her, you'd be out a bit more than the current $1250 differential between the gold and the platinum to replace the ring after the fact. On the third hand, maybe she'll like white gold more (I do, especially with sapphires).

You can order nickel-free white gold, which is more expensive than standard but still less than platinum. My understanding is that it's a gold/palladium alloy? Maybe one of the jewelers will explain more.

Claes Oldenburger, it's good to hear there are white golds out there now that don't need re-dipping! All my white gold rings are 30 - 90 years old, so they do. This makes me more interested in adding a white gold anniversary band in the future!

Yes completely nickel free white gold is a gold/palladium alloy, which does make it a bit darker/more grey. I looked into this a lot while shopping around for white golds for our shop, and it's tough when so many metals are marketed by their trade names not their ingredients. From what I understand it all comes down to how "stable" the nickel is. If the nickel ions are stable, they stay locked into the metal and are not released which would result in irritation. I have a very, very cursory knowledge of the subject and am by no means a metallurgist, but that is the idea I got from what I had read. Almost all new white golds that include nickel have other additives to make them stable resulting in no irritation.

Pigasus
Dec 26, 2009

Too fat to wear pink.

Claes Oldenburger posted:

Best thing you can do is take a class to see if you like it, either faceting or cabbing whichever seems to be most interesting to you. Once that's out of the way you'll have an idea of the process, and then can buy tools based on your budget and what you want to accomplish. After 7 months of doing it so far, there's no turning back :D it's really, really satisfying taking rough to a finished stone and even more so when you see it in jewellery.

I'm having trouble finding an actual class-but the societies I found have open workshop hours. Is there anywhere I should check for classes? Maybe some key terms would help my Google searching.
My work involves so much polishing that I figured I might as well use it to create something beautiful~ :syoon:

Xun posted:

I'm not sure what the gem society has for sale or includes with their classes, but if they want you to bring your own quartz rough is a really good starting material! Synthetic is even better because it's cheaper and can come in quite bright colors. It is a lot harder to find though, at least for me. I personally don't like faceting glass, although my only attempt has been with some uranium glass and having it fall apart on me before I even got done cutting it with a gem saw.

That's an awesome tip! It's good to know that quartz can be a good starter stone.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Pigasus posted:

I'm having trouble finding an actual class-but the societies I found have open workshop hours. Is there anywhere I should check for classes? Maybe some key terms would help my Google searching.

I think I just searched faceting classes? I forget how I found them, sorry!

My humble suggestion is beryl or garnet to start with, mostly because they polish way easier than quartz. If you're interested and don't mind dropping a couple bucks this book will be your manual https://www.amazon.com/Amateur-Gems...9S36A3W86VDCK2F I met the author at Tucson this year and he is a wonderful man who really just wanted people to learn proper methods, since the old books are full of improper ones (and some faceting designs that are impossible).

What sort of polishing work do you do now? Knowing how metal polished from making jewellery helped a ton when seeing whether or not my polish was good cutting stones.

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?
Who wants some purple apatite? One time find, super limited with only a 200ish crystals left. These were selling for $3-500 this year before the Tucson show.

150-200 each, pm if interested

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?
Another guy is quoting 3-800 for the same material, if anyone wants one let me know before the end of today! They won't be priced under 200 for much longer

Pigasus
Dec 26, 2009

Too fat to wear pink.

Claes Oldenburger posted:

I think I just searched faceting classes? I forget how I found them, sorry!

My humble suggestion is beryl or garnet to start with, mostly because they polish way easier than quartz. If you're interested and don't mind dropping a couple bucks this book will be your manual https://www.amazon.com/Amateur-Gems...9S36A3W86VDCK2F I met the author at Tucson this year and he is a wonderful man who really just wanted people to learn proper methods, since the old books are full of improper ones (and some faceting designs that are impossible).

What sort of polishing work do you do now? Knowing how metal polished from making jewellery helped a ton when seeing whether or not my polish was good cutting stones.

That's OK. It actually helped!

I'll look into getting that book!

I have polished metals, ceramics, and ceramic/metal composites. I figured since I had so much experience with polishing and I liked gems so much, I should try to combine them by looking into faceting.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Pigasus posted:

I have polished metals, ceramics, and ceramic/metal composites. I figured since I had so much experience with polishing and I liked gems so much, I should try to combine them by looking into faceting.

I'd say that's as good a reason as any!

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


goodness posted:

Another guy is quoting 3-800 for the same material, if anyone wants one let me know before the end of today! They won't be priced under 200 for much longer

Love 'em, but post-tucson is a hard time for purchases of ye fine mineral specimenes.
Where are they from, if you don't mind me asking? I've seen nice ones from Afghanistan, Maine and Brazil but they always seem to have a very squat crystal form.

Invalid Octopus
Jun 30, 2008

When is dinner?
How could I go about finding a jeweller who could custom make me a set of cufflinks and tie bar, with star sapphires (lab created is fine) and white metal (rhodium plated?). Is this something that most like, non-chain jewellers would be fine to do or is it more specialized?

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

Scarodactyl posted:

Love 'em, but post-tucson is a hard time for purchases of ye fine mineral specimenes.
Where are they from, if you don't mind me asking? I've seen nice ones from Afghanistan, Maine and Brazil but they always seem to have a very squat crystal form.

They are from a find in Afghanistan, haven't found another pocket like them since. Tonight's the last night of the show! Still have a dozen or so for 150-200 each.

Xun
Apr 25, 2010



Aw yeah just finished an amethyst trilliant

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Nice! It looks great.

unknown
Nov 16, 2002
Ain't got no stinking title yet!


Here's an interesting data plot of diamond pricing (from Reddit - https://www.reddit.com/r/dataisbeautiful/comments/5u05br/diamond_prices_by_carat_and_clarity_oc/) of http://diamondse.info/ a few years ago.



The horizontal line of no-data at ~$1500 is because the web scraper missed a page.

And someone did the same data set based on colour:

Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice

Claes Oldenburger posted:

I'd say that's as good a reason as any!

Hey Claes, do you still do custom jewelry on commission? If so, I'd love to work with you on another piece. What's your email?

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

unknown posted:

Here's an interesting data plot of diamond pricing (from Reddit - https://www.reddit.com/r/dataisbeautiful/comments/5u05br/diamond_prices_by_carat_and_clarity_oc/) of http://diamondse.info/ a few years ago.



The horizontal line of no-data at ~$1500 is because the web scraper missed a page.

And someone did the same data set based on colour:



I think the clarity column is upside down? Very cool info though.


Coca Koala posted:

Hey Claes, do you still do custom jewelry on commission? If so, I'd love to work with you on another piece. What's your email?

Sure do, I'm actually FINALLY in the process of building my own studio space and moving to do my own thing full time! info at thisishewn.com

Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice

Claes Oldenburger posted:

Sure do, I'm actually FINALLY in the process of building my own studio space and moving to do my own thing full time! info at thisishewn.com

Awesome! I sent you a message through the site, hopefully you're interested in taking on the project!

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?
15ct Tsavorite from the Tucson parcel I posted about



Check that rainbow out!

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


I love that tsavorite! Getting nice crystals is always hard given how they usually form.

I've been cutting a bunch of cabs this week!


I got a nice selection of Moroccan agates at Tucson this year. There is a lot of variety in these guys--the pink banded ones are all from one piece. The large one has a thick calcite rim and a calcite core.

Some chrysoprase (Australian material from Tucson) and pink chalcedony (Texas Springs, NV limb cast material).


This is some neat Ethiopian aquamarine I picked up at Tucson--it has a beautiful silvery sheen down the C-axis.

Cat's eye aquamarine doesn't always show up well in photos but it's quite bright and mobile in person.

Gem silica; the center and left are Mexican cut from the same piece, and the rightmost piece is trimmed from a piece of Needles Blue from California, an unusual rhyolite mixture that sometimes has seams of gem silica mixed in.

Scarodactyl fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Feb 27, 2017

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Goodness are you going to the new Crown Collection opening? I forget whether or not you're close to Denver.

Xun
Apr 25, 2010

Life hack: get hit by truck, use ensuing insurance payout to buy a FANCY ULTRATEC YAAAAAAA

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Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Xun posted:

Life hack: get hit by truck, use ensuing insurance payout to buy a FANCY ULTRATEC YAAAAAAA

Not a great situation but ended up YEEAAAAHHHHHH

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