Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

paisleyfox posted:

Oh my goodness, yes. I figured this out this past weekend when I kept automatically asking the dogs to sit for popcorn. Drives me crazy!

I was thinking I might be able to differentiate when the show lead is on that means to bait and when the show lead is not on, you can sit. Would that be impossible?

You could, but with a pup it's probably safer just to teach a stand behaviour to replace the default sit. Ask your breeder though!

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

There is no set amount to feed a dog of X-pounds. Your best bet is to try an amount a little less than what the bag recommends and keep close tabs on your dog's body condition. Lay your hands along your pup's sides and see if you can feel the ribs with a slight amount of palpation, and if you can feel your dog's obliques through the fur. If your dog gets a bit too soft in the mid-section, feed less. Too thin, feed more. It's simple, but it can be challenging to find what works for your individual dog. Primitive dogs tend to have rather slow metabolisms and can normally get by on a comparatively small amount of food. You can also drop by your vet's place for periodic weigh-ins. Some boutique pet stores have a scale too which you can drop by to use whenever you want. If you like how your dog looks/feels now at 70lbs, use that as a marker for the future.

e: It's a pet peeve of mine to have people say that people feed a precise amount to their dog each day. I much prefer to feed based on how my dog is looking that week. As a rule my dog (about 37lbs) gets a cup of high calorie food each meal which is twice a day. Some days/weeks she gets fed more. Sometimes she gets less. I think it's nice to be a bit more involved in your dog's body condition.

a life less fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Nov 18, 2012

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

i see what you did posted:

I guess I'll post this here since I don't know if it needs it's own thread...

I've got my Husky/GSD mutt rescue and he's awesome in every conceivable way. Only thing is he gets SUPER loud growling and barking at other dogs when he's on leash. I socialized him really well with tons of different people and dogs of different sizes and breeds but when he was a puppy someone stole him out of my yard and either used him for fighting or shacked him up with some aggressive dogs.

After a long (sketchy) story I got him back and his ear was ripped halfway off, he was skinny as poo poo and covered in oil/paint/wtf. He was gone about two weeks and when I took him to the vet to get checked out when I got him back he went apeshit on the first dog he saw. He's never bit a person or a dog and he lives with a ~10lb yappy rat with no problems. If he meets a dog off leash he's awesome with them forever, just gets super anxious when he sees a dog he doesn't know.

Once he sees them he fixates and I can't get his drat attention with a bag of chicken.

Any ideas on how I can at least get him to not care? I don't particularly care if he wants to meet and snuggle every dog - just want him to not terrify their owners.

I know he won't hurt anyone but they don't :3:

This is the kind of issue that a professional could easily help you with. It might be tough finding exactly what works for your dog, but it's definitely something that you can improve drastically or completely fix. A professional will help you identify thresholds and come up with exercises specifically for you and your dog's skill level.

Check out the dog training megathread. We talk a lot about reactivity and controlling our dogs in distracting situations. My initial impression is that if he's completely fixated on another dog you're waaaay too close. Do things like cross the street or make a u-turn when you see a dog. Your dog is anxious about strange dogs coming up to him when he has no option to flee due to the leash, so you need to be proactive and increase distance for him.

Pick up and read Focus, Not Fear or Scaredy Dog by Ali Brown, and maybe Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt. BAT by Grisha Stewart might be good for you too.

And again, go see a professional who specializes in dog reactivity and who utilizes rewards (not punishment) to treat it.

e: I meant BAT, not CAT. CAT is inappropriate in this situation.

a life less fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Dec 8, 2012

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

There's really no way to tell how your dog's personality is going to turn up along the Aussie/Basenji continuum. It may be fiercely independent, totally keyed into you or somewhere between the two extremes. You can't tell how genetics are going to mix when you mix breeds, especially ones so totally opposite as the ones you've mentioned.

I see no Aussie there, but of course I could be mistaken. It looks like a particularly good looking browndog.

As with all dogs of all mixes, look into clicker training and positive reinforcement. You'll have a better time of things if you're able to convince your dog that it wants to do what you want it to do, rather than trying to coerce them through bribery or through force.

rivals, my best to you and your pup!

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

Poor guy. Did you see much inhibition in his movement recently? Was he rickety at all? I hope he heals quickly!

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

HEGEL SMOKE A J posted:

As far as your roommate is concerned, if Mugen's giving a few barks while still wagging his tail, that's probably not hostility,

This is the kind of advice that can get people bitten.

A wagging tail does not denote good will, it just denotes a heightened sense of awareness. You need to read a dog's entire body to properly ascertain their motivations.

Your roommate should ignore the dog completely. Like, pretend the dog doesn't exist. If and when you're all in the same room together, you should be tossing bits of hotdog at Mugen to a) keep him busy and b) build the association that when your roommate is around awesome things happen. Don't worry about correcting the barking. If you change how the dog feels about things the barking will decrease. This process can take a while. As you progress and the dog seems less unsettled by your roommate you can allow him to drop hotdogs to the dog, but again keep distance and keep ignoring the dog as much as you can. Eventually you can work up to passing food if everything has been good for several sessions, but don't rush it.

Re: the Christmas issue, it sounds like you should have left him at home. These new situations are stressful for him and can decrease his bite/reactive threshold. Too much stress can lead to a bad situation. Maybe next time hire someone to look in on him at your home.

Re: your parent's dogs, I would be stepping in and removing them before they have a chance to continually bug him. You know it bothers him, so step in before he feels like he needs to step in.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

I have used White Pine Outfitters' soft web collars from here: http://www.whitepineoutfitters.com/ They're very easy on a dog's coat.

Also, a collar will always cause some degree of breakage and matting. I personally only put collars on my dogs when they're walked but this is obviously not the safest option.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

No direct experience with them, but my guess is that they're hell on wheels (or short stubby legs). Chows are renowned as biters, and Corgis are mouthy to start with. Both are relatively independent, but Corgis have quite a bit of energy too. Both are known to be dog aggressive/reactive.

Maybe you'll luck out, but it's definitely not a mix I would ever adopt lightly. There's probably a reason there's so many popping up in shelters.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

Millions posted:

I've been lurking this thread for a while, my first dog was a Norwegian elkhound so I have a special place in my heart for big fluffy assholes. Your dogs are all beautiful!

I have a corgi now so I'm not looking to take a new primitive breed into my house any time soon, but I feel like it will happen again eventually. Is the Alaskan Klee Kai a legitimate breed at this point, or is it still on the unreputable level of "oh so cute, it's a mini [insert breed here]"? I'm reading that there are less than 2000 of them in the world and they were actually bred to be miniature huskies, so I'm understandably skeptical.

They're a novelty, not a breed. Aside from that, you may find a few breeders around who do health testing and who are active in the dog community. My gut reaction is that there probably aren't too many quality breeders out there though.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

TwoQuestions posted:

Would a corgi be a good match for a husky? My roommate-to-be really wants one, and I already have a particularly energetic dog who really likes to play and won't take no for an answer, especially from another dog. I'm just worried that our husky would endlessly bully and harass any new dog that didn't have the assertiveness to tell her "No, I don't want to play right now, go away".

I think a Corgi would do just fine with a Husky. My herder looooves how Huskies play, but Huskies are known to be jerks and not all dogs take well to what they consider "play". Corgis are generally pretty assertive if pushed.

90% of the Corgis I know have some pretty serious health and soundness issues, and I don't think I could ever get one for that reason. Hope your roommate has some extra money burning a hole in his/her pocket, just in case.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

weavernaut posted:

Does anyone have an Afghan hound? I love them and the look of them, but I've never seen one irl since I left Russia and I would love pictures. :v:

(Not planning on getting a dog, I just live vicariously through people posting photos and sharing stories. All of your dogs are adorable jerks, btw. :3:)

SachielDVangel breeds Afghans and recently wrote a thread about it.

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3563402

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

paisleyfox has a male & female shiba, so she may be able to give you some suggestions.

Typically, it's considered best to have dogs of opposite sexes. I'm not sure about shibas, but same sex aggression is pretty typical in GSDs. I would recommend your shiba be female if you're planning on a male GSD. In my experience, female dogs in general tend to be a bit more serious. I find they have a lovely work ethic, but they can be bitchy and carry a grudge. Males tend to mature later and will carry puppyish traits further into adulthood.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

I think you absolutely should be keeping the dogs separated while feeding, and while you're away/not supervising. It sounds like you rushed introductions, really (as does everyone). I would have kept baby gates, doors, etc between the two dogs for at least a few weeks to upwards of a month, depending on behaviour.

Calm down and reassess in two weeks or so. :)

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

Koivunen posted:


I am a little worried about Sheba biting people, though. In our moment of weakness we talked to the shelter, and when they asked why we were thinking about surrendering, we explained that she didn't get along well with our previous dog. They asked if she had bit people before and we couldn't lie about it. They said that even though they are a no-kill shelter, any time a dog has bit a person, they may consider euthanasia if the dog is aggressive during the assessment. This has me very afraid for her if they test for food aggression. I've been too afraid to get anywhere near her while she's eating, but if they do that rubber hand thing I'm sure she will bite it. I'm not sure if that qualifies since she is perfectly fine with people in every other situation, and when we brought her to the e-vet they said she was very well behaved, but if she somehow got euthanized I would hate myself forever.

She's clearly a resource guarder, so it's entirely possible that her RG will make an appearance during the assessment. I mean, that's what assessments are supposed to do. Better they identify resource guarding via rubber hand before someone adopts her. Best she lash out in a shelter at not at a toddler. Honestly, if she's genuinely unsafe she'll either have to be adopted out to someone who's well versed in her issues (and has experience managing them) or, unfortunately, euthed. I genuinely feel that RG is a completely treatable issue, but not everyone is up to the task, and not everybody has the leisure to do so.

Contact the Mal rescue and see where you get.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

Darth Freddy posted:

Recent rescue from some bad living conditions. her mother was "Full blood husky" and as near as I can tell her father was a catahoula with something thrown in. As soon as I find my camera I will try and get pictures of her "cracked" eyes. each one is split into two different colors.

Do you have any pictures of the sire? Did you see him in person?

I think the split-colour eyes are normally referred to as marbled.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

Shibe party: all dogs stand around acting like indifferent dicks to one another. :3:

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

It's dyed. Adorably dyed.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

Have pictures of the pup's parents at shows? They're a rare breed around here and I don't think I've ever seen one at an event. Pretty neat, if you know what you're in for.

  • Locked thread