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movax posted:Ah this makes sense, thanks. I'm pumped for Sandy Bridge; my first machine was a Pentium (family), then my personal boxes have gone P3 1.11GHz -> C2D E6600. I think it's almost upgrade time, even though my E6600 still does everything I need. Yeah, I know what you mean. My C2D E8400@3.25 isn't setting any records, but that and a 1 GB Radeon 4850 let me do everything I want and pretty darn well. Just about the only things upgrading would do for me are speed up 5 DVD encodes a year, run Folding@Home faster, and getting an even greater excess of frames per second on the games I run, or maybe stabilizing newer/less-well-behaved games at 60 fps instead of 30. And I built this machine roughly two weeks after the E8400 came out. Even a now-entry-level 4 GB of RAM doesn't really hold me back on anything. Things have changed in ten years. No matter what I decide to do, I can manage it, and I can fit the pauses into times of my life when I'm doing other things anyway (or just multitask around it). I helped a family friend pick a new computer recently, jumping from a poorly-aging P4 Dell Dimension to a Core i5 entertainment laptop. What a difference that was. I don't think I'll ever experience something like that. Will we never again feel the thrill of a desktop or laptop upgrade with a significant boost in capability? Are we doomed forever to only get our "new toy" excitement when Apple releases their version of a previously unpopular product and revitalizes that market? 
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Sep 15, 2010 08:12
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WhyteRyce posted:The gaming numbers look impressive (comparatively) but those Anandtech numbers still look like poo poo overall. You can probably play your older games fine, but then I still wonder the point of playing games on a netbook. My older GMA950 Atom netbook chokes on pretty much any web video, yet I chose it for battery life. If AMD tells me I can actually watch House on Hulu if I want to yet still have 8+ hours of battery life when I'm just typing, I'm interested.
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Nov 16, 2010 20:04
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Eh... Maybe a CUDA cluster that needs inter-node communications? And with this post, I've caused pre-emptive headaches in thousands of university IT helpdesks that will get requests for such systems.
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Dec 29, 2010 18:18
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Bob Morales posted:
Serious academic computing: where science meets blingin'-rad blue LEDs.
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Dec 30, 2010 01:21
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The only difference between P67 and H67 is whether there are hookups for video hardware, right? So why does the vanilla Asus P8H67 have no display connectors? As far as I can tell, it's just a P8P67 with a shitter audio codec.
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Jan 3, 2011 18:08
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movax posted:I think everyone should seriously consider the "splurge" for getting the Intel solution; your torrents will thank you. If we don't torrent, should we care?
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Jan 3, 2011 19:27
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Speaking of RAM deals, I just went in on this one: 8 GB (2x4GB) of G.Skill DDR3 1333 for $74.99 after promo code. According to some Googleable guy on another forum, G.Skill confirmed this stuff (Sniper brand) uses different ICs than the Ripjaws brand, but it's a new product line. G.Skill tends to review well on Newegg, though those brand names are a bit 
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Jan 7, 2011 05:21
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Gunder posted:I'd be very interested to know of peoples experiences with the Asus Pro board. I've been hearing reports of instability and am wondering how isolated they are. I kicked an i5-2500K to 4 GHz base, auto voltage, and started Folding@Home, and it's been both painless and flawless thus far. It did come shipped with a BIOS so old it isn't even available for download, and it was pretty stop-and-go working with the Asus tools until I managed to flash the 1053 BIOS. But now, shazaam.
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Jan 10, 2011 12:32
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Comatoast posted:These processors/chipsets are supposed to use less power than previous generations. Does overclocking a 2500k negate any of those power saving features? Some, but not compared to an overclocked previous generation chip.
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Jan 10, 2011 21:38
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Comatoast posted:Thats the one I was thinking of. If the processor is idle it clocks it down to some fraction of its normal clock speed. That one is important. I don't mind a little extra voltage needed constantly but if it never clocks itself down, then overclocking isn't worth it for me. I bumped the multiplier to 42 (i.e. 4.2 GHz) and left the core voltage on "Auto," and SpeedStep definitely still works. It clocks down to 1.6 GHz per core and cuts ~.15V off vCore.
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Jan 11, 2011 01:41
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I'm not sure, and I can't change it within Windows. but it seems to have clocked all the way down to .96v now.
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Jan 11, 2011 02:02
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Buffis posted:Anyone has any good pointers on a good cpu heat sink for P8P67 pro? I'd like to replace the stock cooling in my new machine... I stuck a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ on no problem. Gigantic and efficient and cheap. Parts picking megathread's default suggestion. Just be sure you're working with a case that can take it.
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Jan 12, 2011 00:28
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It hangs over, but there's enough clearance for non-heatsinked or low-profile heatsinked RAM. I use G.Skill Sniper, and it would fit, but Ripjaws (with the fins on top) would not, for example.  Hangs over the first slot only, so 2xhigh profile heatsinks can still be installed if you use the B channel, which the manual said is the preferred channel for 2-DIMM setups anyway.
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Jan 12, 2011 03:58
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Yeah, that's pretty high. At 4.4 GHz, I idle at 35 and only get to 70 during stability burn-in, ~60 when doing Folding@Home. What are the generally safe voltages one can push an SB system to? I haven't touched my voltages and I'm stable at 4.4 GHz, though the mainboard may be doing a bit of its own fuckery. Things generally are at ~1.27V right now.
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Jan 13, 2011 04:16
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What are you using to measure? Asus AI Suite is the only thing I can use to match the BIOS; everything else tells me my cores are below room temp.
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Jan 13, 2011 06:08
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Yes, in the very first slot or in the black slot. Both are PCI-E slots. The black one is an oddity: size of an x16 slot, but only has the lanes allocated for x4 or x1 use.
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Jan 13, 2011 08:39
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Just did some overclocking on my 2500K and P8P67 Pro after reapplying thermal goop. Tested for stability with Intel Burn Test. 4.4 GHz at Auto Vcore (1.25V) at 58C 4.7 GHz at 1.27V, ~63C 4.8 GHz at 1.29V but up to 78C And I've hit a wall. Hard lock up to 1.36V at 49x, not gonna push any harder. Temps will drop as the Arctic Silver cures, but that's not the problem here. E: CM Hyper 212+, unfortunately, so pretty beefy. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Jan 13, 2011 |
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Jan 13, 2011 08:56
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R1CH posted:For those of you OCing, are you leaving turbo boost on? If you do and overclock to say 4.2GHz, won't turbo push you well past safe levels of speed? I'm not sure if I should be leaving turbo on or not, when I OCed an i7 the motherboard automatically disabled turbo (it was set to auto) so the frequency remained constant. It seems like my board defaults to running everything at TB speed. If I run at 33x, I'm at 37x in Windows. There may be a way to switch this behavior, but all this hurts is a bit of extra heat and power draw. At 44-48x I'm already driving the cores as fast as they'll go anyway, for a given voltafe. E: to clarify, above stock multiplier, it stops regarding turbo boost at all. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jan 13, 2011 |
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Jan 13, 2011 23:13
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axeil posted:So is overclocking typically done through the BIOS? I'm pretty new to this, but I've read through the overclocking thread and understand the general way the process works. I'm just a bit unsure about how you actually go about setting the multiplier and such. There's a setting in the BIOS where you type in a number. If you use a Windows utility (I've had good luck with Asus' AI Tweaker, though others ITT said to ignore it), there's roughly the same thing. Might be a slider. It goes from 16 to 65. Set you voltage, set your multiplier, then save-and-reboot (BIOS) or hit Apply (Windows tool). I liked the Windows tool because it let me go between overclocking settings and Intel Burn Test for stability testing very rapidly. Of course, once you get to your chip's limits, things tend to hard lock after hitting "Apply" so you find yourself rebooting anyway. e: To the heatsink question, I'm using the Cooler Master Hyper 212+, and now that the arctic silver has cured a bit more, I'm idling at 31C (+10F from room temp!) and doing Folding@Home SMP at 53C, which is as full load as it gets besides the Intel Burn Test or Prime95. This is at 4.4 GHz with voltages set to Auto for a Vcore of 1.25-1.3. Auto Vcore is a bit aggressive. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jan 15, 2011 |
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Jan 15, 2011 22:09
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Mine came with BIOS 0405 or something, and the Windows updater would crash if I let it sit untouched for more than five seconds. It also would not download from the internet automatically, no matter what. After downloading 1053 manually and successfully flashing it, the thing stopped being so temperamental.
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Jan 16, 2011 04:00
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Personally, I did it through the Windows utility. I also put a dumb MyLogo on it. My monitor takes so long to sync up I see it for maybe half a second before the computer moves on. But yeah, the Windows utility did it for me.
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Jan 16, 2011 07:52
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Combat Pretzel posted:What I also don't like how the BIOS makes its settings changes. It shuts down the computer, starts it for a few seconds, shuts it down again and then does starts again and does the POST. That sounds like the primary BIOS got messed up, either corrupted or a failed flash, and it's loading the back-up BIOS with default settings. If you can do a really solid reflash, that should stop, and if it doesn't, you should RMA the board.
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Jan 16, 2011 20:23
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How's your Windows Experience Score/other benchmarks? Are they in line with what you're expecting? Might just be CPU-Z not being able to dig that bit of information out of the BIOS for any number of reasons. For the record, CPU-Z shows the same for me using 2x4GB G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1333 9-9-9-24-1T. I get a 7.7 on the RAM subscore. Considering I got ~6.8 using DDR2 1066 5-5-5-15 in dual channel in my last build, I'm not thinking there's a problem here.
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Jan 17, 2011 09:21
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Ika posted:And a completely different question, is there an easy way to duplicate my windows install onto a different drive so I dont have to reinstall both my new PC and my current one when I yank out the SSDs? Preferably a windows tool or freeware. If the drives are MBR formatted rather than GPT, give Macrium Reflect a shot. You will need a scratch disk, but afterwards you can save the images you make as back-ups. Whichever drive gets the copy of windows from the original drive, you will need to do two things. First, you will need to boot from an install CD and run an installation repair. Second, you will need to enter a new product key into one of the Windows installs in order to be legal (it's easiest to do on whichever drive will see the most new hardware, since it will have to be re-activated anyway, but it can be done on either).
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Jan 17, 2011 19:00
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The Metal Avenger posted:Anybody have any tips for setting up RAID 0 to run Windows 7 from my two 128gig SSD Drives? I'm looking in the EUFI and it's seeing my other four HD's that I'm putting in RAID 10, but it doesn't recognize the SSD's at all even though they're both present in the boot menu. I'm at a bit of a loss here as this is my first time dealing with RAID. They're all plugged into the Intel controller slots on the P8P67 Pro board. Are you sure they're in the right ports? The light gray ones, not the dark blues?
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Jan 19, 2011 00:05
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Gunder posted:I'm using the Asus P8P67 Pro and was wondering if there's some way that I can get the USB ports to be powered when the system is switched off. My old Asus P5N32-E SLI Plus would keep supplying power to the USB ports, thus enabling me to charge my wireless mouse while the system was switched off. According to my informal test of turning off my computer with some peripherals plugged in, the internal USB headers remain powered when the computer's off. That's according to a laptop drive and an iPod, at least. So plug in the ports on the front of the case or get a drive-bay hub.
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Jan 19, 2011 11:51
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The Metal Avenger posted:Not to derail this thread too much with overclocking talk, but following this guide whenever I increase my multiplier the motherboard decreased the bus speed to keep my i2500lk at 3.3. Is there something I'm missing, or that isn't explained in the guide? Asus board? Update the BIOS. I couldn't change my multiplier above 33 until I went to 1053 (P8P67 Pro, shipped with 0405 or somesuch).
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Jan 21, 2011 13:23
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It's under advanced. 
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Jan 22, 2011 00:48
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CPU Ratio from "Auto" to a number?
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Jan 22, 2011 02:04
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Normally I would be very confused as to why you are having problems, but it seems like since my last restart, I'm suddenly getting the same thing and the multiplier adjustment in AI Suite has disappeared.  E: Rebooting fixed me up... hunh. Well, here's looking forward to the next BIOS update. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jan 22, 2011 |
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Jan 22, 2011 03:40
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Yes, it's normal. As covered in the last few pages, a modern operating system will halt the processor, then tell it to wake up when it has work. When halted, that's the idle state. A BIOS, even UEFI, is not that sophisticated, so the processor is constantly polling the mouse to be able to respond to clicks and update where the pointer is. Your processor is actually busy most of the time in UEFI, just not with really taxing work, so you will see a "light load"-type temperature.
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Jan 22, 2011 10:43
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movax posted:It just power gates itself off and does nothing. Only way to utilize it is with a H67 or Z61 (not released yet) based motherboard. The Z61 gives you the best of the P67 and H67. Guess it wasn't quite ready for a primetime Q1 release. Okay, help me out, I've now seen the Z chipset with three different numbers: Z61, Z67, Z68. Which one is it?
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Jan 26, 2011 05:43
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Yup.fishmech posted:Where do people even get 23.976 media? DVDs intended to be played on a TV. NTSC does some crazy stuff, mang.
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Jan 31, 2011 23:52
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Combat Pretzel posted:Just checked. My data disks are both on the Marvell controller. The most IO happens on there, so they're out of harm's way. But I can't identify what the system disks are hooked up to, the device manager makes it impossible to discern, since both 3 and 6 Gbps ports are on the same controller. On the disk properties, Details -> Location Information. 0 and 1 are 6 Gbps ports, 2-5 are the affected ports. Or you could, y'know, look. strategery posted:So I need to contact newegg about replacing my motherboard AND CPU, yes? (As I have a p8p67 pro and i2500k). The problem is about the motherboard's SATA controller. The CPU is not affected at all. Therefore, you only have to contact Newegg about replacing the motherboard. You do not need to replace the CPU.
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Feb 1, 2011 16:33
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Did you pick a case where the power switch was hardwired to the screws?
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Feb 1, 2011 16:46
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Yes, or you could just use the ports which won't start deteriorating for a while and do a mainboard swap when that's made available?
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Feb 1, 2011 19:12
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It affects the processor primarily, so nooooope, no guilt-free 1.6V overclocks for us.
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Feb 1, 2011 20:29
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An Athlon II system will be perfectly fine for gaming unless you decide to play GTA IV with all the AI settings turned to maximum or something equally over-the-top. If you buy a motherboard from eBay, you risk breaking the retail chain that allows you to get a recall replacement. You just dumped $350 on your graphics card alone, bought into launch technology, MUST have a new computer NOW, and you balk at spending $160 in a motherboard and processor which you can replace in four months and resell for $120? Don't be an idiot.
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Feb 3, 2011 14:37
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Good lord, here I was bashing my head against my desk troubleshooting my SNB system's inability to resume from sleep since I updated to the 1203 BIOS and swapped my PSU. I had a lot of data corruption (luckily nothing important) as I continually had to shut down the computer while it only barely worked while resuming. What's the problem? It seems the entire P8P67 line has a bug with PLL overvolting. So if you overclock, PLL overvolting makes any given overclock more likely to be stable, but you get positively scrambled when resuming. Well, I knew I could be getting into fun stuff like this and the recall when I decided to be an early adopter. E: Better link, more info: http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=1&model=P8P67&id=20110129052416628&page=1&SLanguage=en-us Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Feb 4, 2011 |
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Feb 4, 2011 02:02
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That card is so overpowered for 1920x1080 that there are maybe only three games you will ever have any framerate issues with, and they are games which are either poorly programmed or specifically CPU bound or both (like Dwarf Fortress  ). You are REALLY, REALLY into having a boutique experience right now, but the difference between $800 of computer and $3,000 at 1920x1080 with no 3D isn't boutique, it's marginal and possibly not even noticeable at all.By the time the difference between a 760 and a 2500K makes it into games, you're going to be around the time you want to build a new machine that shames either anyway. Sandy Bridge is really sweet and all, but that doesn't mean that you can't have a good experience without it. I mean, it's just a month old. Every game released up until January 9, 2011 has been intended for a world where it doesn't exist, and every game released a month or a year down the line will remember that there are lots of people who bought their computers before January 9, 2011 who would like to play, too. You're treating this too much like a new console generation in the early 2000's.
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Feb 4, 2011 21:35
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