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cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Now that I finally am the sole owner of my dog after 6 years I really want to reinforce some commands she has been taught. Right now if I ask her to go "down" she goes through a whole list of actions before she hits down like sitting first and then shake. I know she's confused, but I'm looking for a way to correct this behavior. She's too smart for her own good sometimes.

She's a German Shepherd/Chow mix so I have no doubt in her smarts. Sometimes she feels human to me.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 10:14 on Jan 8, 2011

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cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
I'm going crazy with my dog. She's 8 years old and just will not go to the bathroom outside anymore. I don't know why. She will go pee (sometimes), but seems to intentionally hold her poop and poop on the floor in the middle of the night.

Add to my confusion is if she is on a hard surface she will not do any business on it, but will gladly pee and poop on carpet. My house is all carpet except in the kitchen and bathroom (I'll leave her in the kitchen sometimes with a baby gate and no accidents ever). She loves to poop in the front living room and we can never seem to catch her when she does go inside.

I'm just so tired of the dog pee smell in the house. She knows to go to the back door if she has to go to the bathroom and does do that, so she's making the connection bathroom=backdoor. We don't have a fenced in backyard so I usually let her out tied to a long lead and she has plenty of room to move around. She does listen to my boyfriend so no leash when he lets her out, but still she'll go pee and just stand there like she's done, but I KNOW she isn't. I can't make her take a poop though.

GAH help.

She gets fed at 1 p.m. and we take both dogs out around 10 p.m. and get let out first thing in the morning. Boyfriend's dog doesn't have any problems. I haven't had a crate since she was a puppy. Do I just need to retrain her on potty training? She already has her cue word and when I say "want to go OUT?" she will walk to the back door.

Oh and she did this when she was a puppy and living at my parent's house with hardwood floors. She would go to the bathroom outside, but would still find our area rugs and pee and poop on them.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 21:09 on May 8, 2012

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
So I can take Cash to work (and he is here with me today for a groomer appointment down the street), but he barks at almost anyone that walks through our office door. I usually call him over and treat to distract, but I want to make sure I'm doing it right? There are times though when it happens too quickly for me to distract him. Is there a really good way to handle reactive barking? I'm in an open office plan so it can be quite distracting. I'm kicking myself for not bringing a busy toy because he is probably bored as well, but i'll just go get one at lunch today.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jun 28, 2013

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Are some dogs just impossible to crate train? It hasn't been long enough for me to call quits, but I just can't get Cash to step inside without being scared. If I put the treats in mouth reach he just picks them up and eats them outside the crate. Same story with food. He'll stick his head in but bring the food out to eat it.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Good idea I think that's what scares him the most is the plastic on the crate.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 1, 2013

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Cryingscarf have you tried just having him downstairs instead of your room? Sounds like he doesn't want to be left out of things happening when your mom is awake. Either that or you're just going have to wait him out.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Eh dogs can be moody shits. :p

So Cash just doesn't like the plastic bottom to the crate. The sinking sensation when it flattens from his weight freaks him out. Took it out and had an easier training session. I tested my hypothesis once and he wouldn't budge. Dammit dog now what?

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

WolfensteinBag posted:

First off, I'd stick with the "easier" way you had the crate, is it just the tray out? Or did you do something else to make him more receptive to it? Either way, start where he's most comfortable so he's less anxious about the training. Once he's REALLY good about going on it that way, then slowly ease it more into his less comfortable zones.

Secondly, how exactly are you working on training? If you're tossing treats on to the pan, that's a good start. After he gets the idea that treats appear there, you might want to start shaping the behavior of him choosing on his own to investigate the crate pan. That way you're not just pushing him farther than he feels comfortable because he really wants that treat. After all, you want his crate to be a safe, comfy place for him. By shaping the behavior, you're allowing him to decide his level of security, and also showing him it's even LESS scary because TREATS!

If you're working on actually giving a command to have him lay on the bed, you might want to take a step back and work on shaping. Telling him to lay on the tray is just as much "forcing" him in to it as tossing the treats might be. I'd wait until he's really eagerly going over to the pan for treats over and over to start giving commands to lay down. The key is to make sure he's EXCITED about the crate and training around it, if he seems hesitant/scared, then it's time to move a step back.

Obviously, this all takes a decent amount of time. You're not going to have him exuberant over his crate in one day. But the more you work on it like this, the better off he'll be for it in the long run. :)

I'm not at the command part at all.

I'm thinking of switching to a soft crate that doesn't make as much sudden weird noises. I'm using a standard wire crate that's pretty noisy. He isn't against being in a crate because our first session of crate games he was fine with going in, but I think all the weird sounds it makes just makes him completely uncomfortable. I just lose tons of progress if his tags hit the wire or if the pan moves under his feet. He's very reactive to quick bangs, which is another thing I'm working on.

I've really just been tossing treats in at different intervals and watching his body language. I'll make good progress but then some sound startles him and it's back to the entrance. I can get his head in, but any more in is a REALLY big step for him even with the tray out. So It's not the tray, it's the whole crate so I think something softer and quieter will help me make better progress.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Not really sure where to put this it might be a more advanced question for a full thread. My oldest dog Condie has been an only dog for most of her life and she has some signs of only dog syndrome. She HATES sharing toys and will start fights with any dog that plays with her toys. Problem is she sees ANY toy brought into the house as hers and it's not fair of me to expect a dog to differentiate between yours and mine (can dogs dog this? I'm not really sure?)

I'm really not sure where to start training for this. Food is a non-starter because that can starts fights as well and playing turns into treat time. I'd love for my old girl to play with my new girl or at least have them put up with each other.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

Engineer Lenk posted:

For management: take toys out of the picture when they're both loose together. Dogs play without toys. If they're starting fights with nothing around then you need to teach Condie that the other dog's presence is the best thing ever, which is harder.

For training:
Use barriers - a crate, an ex-pen, even a solid door. Settle Condie - you can use a stuffed kong in a crate if you need to, then reinforce with food while your other dog plays with toys. When she's OK with the other dog playing nearby, then you can up to both dogs playing separated by a barrier. Get identical toys, toss them so the dogs are headed away from each other.

In all of this, Condie's job is to ignore the other dog, not play with her. Do not expect a dog that is a resource guarder to ever completely extinguish the behavior - never leave her alone with another dog with toys in the mix.

Yea she is also isn't too happy about the new dog, but she was the same way with my little guy Cash for a few weeks. The new girl, Honey, has been on crate rest this week and I've kept her crate in the main hangout area. Tensions/stress are a little high, but it has cooled off with some small group walks and time. It's mostly dinner time and any toys (so resource guardy yep). I've planned on just taking turns in the crate with play time.

I'll take some tips on making the transition easier on everyone though. I can feed them treats sometimes and just go the line with a hot dog pieces when they're together. Honey has only been in the house since Sunday so I'm not expecting too much too soon.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
I like that game. Let's you incorporate a leave it as well.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

Malalol posted:

How does clicker training work in a group setting? Will it confuse the dogs if each owner is working with their own dog and they all,haventhe same clicker .?

Yea the dog is only focused on you (as it should be) since there should be focus exercises that help with concentrating on the handler. I've been going to group classes for a few weeks now and none of the dogs get confused. It's more likely that they'll want to check out and play with the other dogs.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
You're going to need a clicker and treats on hand. You need to start with getting his attention over everything else. So reward when he looks back at you click and treat. He'll soon learn to concentrate on you and not the TV. Then you can desensitize by slowly raising the distraction level. Start with an animal video on low volume and slowly raise the volume. You can probably use YouTube videos for this.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Nevermind I need to go back to basics.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Dec 4, 2013

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Ok so anyone have ideas for sort of distracting but not completely outside places to go for loose leash walking? Honey gets it inside the house, but I don't really have a place to escalate other than going right outside on walk and once it's walk! time it gets more frustrating. I click for slack leash and eye contact, but she's so interested in everything around her that she could care less about a treat after the click. I usually have to shove it in her face. Should I just keep being persistent and patient outside? I'm just thinking it's too much of a jump between house and alley way. The alley has so many dogs barking at her and so many delicious trash smells and the sidewalk is the same.

Walks are her end all be all favorite thing too so it amps up her super focus. She does have great focus when I can get her paying attention to me on lead, but there's an initial hurdle when we first step outside the door and I think it's the OMGOMG I'm going on a walk phase I have to get through.

At the seminar we had a big room to practice in for a little bit and then went straight outside to the parking lot that's in a very quiet neighborhood, which she had an easier time with. My area is far from quiet.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Dec 4, 2013

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
^^She's much more into playing and the environment than food. She loves food, but will ignore it for play time or sniffing every inch of the ground.

cryingscarf posted:

Maybe have the front door open and practice walking down the hall without dragging you to the door? It is inside but with the promise/excitement of the wonderful outdoors.

I like the door idea. We were working on not pulling to the closed door last night so I'll try opening it tonight. Going to look like a crazy lady walking in and out of my house.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Dec 4, 2013

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

a life less posted:

I would also NEVER allow the dog to hop up onto your lap uninvited. (My husband lets my chihuahua do this and it bothers me to no end.)

My boyfriend does this too with Honey and it drives me insane because it's sending mixed signals to her. Lap uninvited is how I ended up with breakfast all over me and the floor one morning. She's way better than when I first got her, but it's an issue with consistency.

Edit so I don't double post, but I found a good in between spot for loose leash walking and it's the pet store! I took Honey with me while shopping for PISSmas and took my training stuff with me, went to the back of the store where it's the most boring and got some good focus and a good training session from her. What's awesome is I could choose her level of distraction and we got some pretty good focus around the caged birds. The dog food isle was a little TOO challenging along with the the kenneled dogs up for adoption, but I love being able to choose the level of difficulty and it isn't freezing cold.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Dec 12, 2013

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
I forgot, but what do you do when your dog does the behavior you're wanting without asking? Honey kept doing down, but not when I wanted her too. I ignored it and repositioned her into a sit, but then when I asked for down she didn't do it. She does know the word and has done it reliably before. Was she getting bored and I just need to change to something different?

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Oh I didn't touch her. I meant I told her to sit if she did a down without asking, but I let some seconds pass before I asked for a sit.

quote:

It sounds like you're having trouble with stimulus control. Having a behaviour under stimulus control basically means your dog sits when you say "sit" but not when you say "down" or "banana". I would work on getting one behaviour under stimulus control at a time. It sounds like your dog isn't too clear of the distinction between "sit" and "down" and is getting frustrated and is offering up other behaviours, or is shutting down.

This sounds like what's happening. I think I transitioned too quickly from a down -> sit on her. I'll go back to concentrating on one thing.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jan 15, 2014

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Is there a dog sport thread somewhere? I started rally with my puppy and would like to talk to those more experienced in it. I'm completely new as well.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

a life less posted:

There was, but it's probably fallen into the archives and my half-hearted search turned up nothing. I've competed in Rally, as have a few other people who post in this thread. What's up?

Some good habits to get into and others to avoid, especially as a handler. General tips. Expectations during judging. General atmosphere at testing. Also what is a show and go?

I have a weekly class but figured I could get some tips,

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cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Awesome! I'm looking forward to more then. I figured this would be a good intro for both me and him since we can't do agility for a while.

I've been working on his heel. I apparently treat too far behind me and also need to bring him closer to me. Also down is taking him way longer than anything else I've taught him. He's still a baby though so he'll get it.

At what point do you like to add a cue to heel? When it's shaped better? I guess I can do a few different heel cues that depend on how tight I want him to me.

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