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Luminous
May 19, 2004

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WolfensteinBag posted:

a life less, I have to say, I disagree with you on this point. Although obviously the ultimate goal of any training is going to be solid obedience no matter if a reward is involved or not, but this is VERY different with different breeds of dogs. This is why we all say you can't use one blanket technique with every breed. If that were the case, it wouldn't matter what dog people got when they haven't had experience or are used to one type of dog (say, a sporting dog over a spitz). I don't mean any offense or anything, but you've only had experience working with a breed that is one of the highest on the charts for biddablility. Your dog has it ingrained in her DNA that she wants nothing more in life than to work, go over multiple repetitions, and please, please, please her owner. Spitz dogs, like Rho, literally do not give one poo poo what you want when they decide there's something else they'd rather have. This is going to sound harsher than I mean it, I'm sure, but this is why you need to be firm with these breeds as opposed to being all positive all the time. It's not that you want to use harsh corrections or anything, because obviously that'll be counter productive since the dog'll just say, "gently caress you, you're boring, I'm outta here," but (as PFox mentioned in the Primitive Breeds thread) your dog has to know your serious, like the tone you'd take with a disobedient 4 year old. You need to strike a balance between reward and correction, because reward on its own won't do, these dogs get bored and sick of you.

There are difficulties with different breeds and animals, and there is certainly no question that you may be able to achieve results faster or more easily using a different technique, setting aside any questions of whether or not different techniques are as mentally and emotionally healthy or whether or not certain techniques can be built upon to make further training easier than the initial hurdle.

The simple fact is you can train any kind of animal with operant conditioning. You can train bears. You can train goldfish. You can train insects. Insects.

The real point isn't that it is positive in how we, emotional humans, think of it - happy, cheerful. But positive as in beneficial, or getting something you want or need, or "better than the alternative".

Luminous fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Nov 12, 2010

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Luminous
May 19, 2004

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Some time ago I had asked how to teach my dog to roll over simply because I couldn't figure out how to lure or shape him into the needed movement. At the time, I had started with teaching him to lay on a particular side. So, he learned "lay left" and "lay right." And then I stopped because I let myself become too busy.

Yesterday, I used a single strip of bacon torn into about 8 pieces. And 10 minutes later, had completed his roll over ability. I like smart dogs. And bacon.

Luminous
May 19, 2004

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Need help on how to teach my dog to stack. Having trouble googling what I would consider to be a good source of information, unless all of the "manually move legs into proper position" is as good as it gets, which I usually doubt.

It seems like it'd start with getting him to lean forward for a treat, but I have two problems.

1 - He tends to just step forward instead of leaning. I don't have a grooming table to practice on - though now that I am typing it, it dawns on me I can probably use the porch or deck edge.

2 - He's got good restraint. He doesn't even try to take a treat he hasn't earned. So if I put the treat in front of him, it's a little difficult to get him to lean at all. He just stares at me waiting for the go ahead or a prompt. And if I encourage him, letting him know its ok, then he does #1.

The more I type it, the more it seems like just using the deck edge will allow me to encourage him to go for a treat but being forced to lean. I just don't know if this is an excessive method for him, or if there is a much simpler way to shape him into position.

Luminous
May 19, 2004

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Fatty Patty posted:

is it plausible and okay to teach my dog to not destroy toys? She loves toys, especially stuffed ones, but she can destroy them in no time at all. Sometimes I buy her cheap ones just so she can destroy them, but it's really annoying when you spend $8-10 on a toy for it to be destroyed in less than 5 minutes.

Yes. And I don't mean this to sound patronizing, because it really isn't, but, simply don't let your dog do anything destructive with the toy(s) that aren't meant to be destroyed.

Means you will have to always monitor your dog with her toys.

I know its possible because Atra, my boy, used to demolish plushy toys quickly, putting me in the same mood as you - "why do I bother?"

But of course, the difficulty comes to teach your dog not to destroy the toy without making any play "bad" to do. You just need to redirect the play. If she starts looking like she is getting in the mood to tear the toy apart, or to start pulling hair from it, or the like, simply go play with her, using the toy, in a different fashion.

For me, whenever I saw Atra starting to chew on a non-chew toy, I just go to him and play a bit of keep away and squeaking the toy. When I couldn't monitor him, I put the toys out of reach, usually right next to me on my desk so that he had to come to me if he wanted to play.

And now . . . he is fine with plush toys. He happily squeaks them and does his playful shake, and he will lay down with the toy and just push his nose into it, but doesn't try to chew them apart anymore.

Luminous
May 19, 2004

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Games
Gains

a life less posted:

1 - Instead of using a treat to lure him forward, how about teaching him to touch your hand (or another object) and hold his nose there for a period of time. Gradually the hand target can be faded out.

2 - You can shape a stack. I did a quick google and came up with these links which seem decent:

http://www.farmoreboxers.com/Freestacking.htm
http://vickironchette.blogspot.com/2009/07/free-stack-training-tools.html

It looks like the general plan of attack is to position the dog, build value for the position, then test to see if they can gradually find it on their own.

Are you planning on showing your dog? :3:

Hmm, I like the detail in that second link, so that should help.

While I do still want to get in to some sort of competitions with Atra, learning to stack isn't really motivated by that at all. I just wanted something simple to teach that I could use to put him into a consistent pose that is easy to do comparisons over time.

He got rather pudgy this past winter (yes, I am bad for letting it happen . . . to be fair, the amount of snow was not my fault and I did reduce his food intake :(), and I realized it would be a lot easier for me to see how he is doing with weight loss if I could do comparison shots. Well, that or buy one of those big dog scales :P

It was seeing Cohen in the pose that prompted me to think "gee, that would be really handy for Atra to do when I need . . ." and so, here we are.

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