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How do people usually start getting their dog to ring a bell when they need to go out, and what kind of bell do they use? A desk bell, a string of bells that the dog jingles, etc? Our pup will generally go to the door if she needs to go out, but sometimes it'll just be a flyby, not a stand at the door and wait type of thing. She also likes to sometimes go over there just to sleep, so we're occasionally left guessing over whether she needs to go out. So, a bell would be handy...do you just start dinging it when you go out with them, then get them to do it, over and over until they figure it out? Also, is there something you can do so they really only associate it with needing to go out to eliminate, vs just being like "wellll poo poo I'm bored so Imma ring this bell" And an unrelated question...she's actually pretty good at walking on a loose leash by our side already (unless something super exciting happens up ahead, of course, but we're working on that) but we just by default started her off to stay on the right side of us, while I see a life less saying to use the left side, etc. I assume this is mainly because of the heel command and it being specifically defined as the dog on your left side. We don't have any current plans to do things that might require a specific heel but I can't rule out the chance that we might want to do something like Rally or whatever in the future. We actually haven't started working on heel as a command...think we could get her to recognize the command as be on the left side but without the command hang out on the right? Or just switch over to the left completely
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Dec 14, 2010 18:05
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Cool, thanks. Even if she would reliably wait by the door, that'd be great, but whatever works. Part of having a puppy I guess.
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Dec 14, 2010 20:33
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Looking for a little advice here... Our pup gets into moods sometimes (probably not helped by spending a week over Christmas in a house with other dogs to play with) where she basically isn't interested in toys, or playing with us, or anything except trying to play with the cat. For the most part it's nothing bad...the cat is fine and it doesn't bother her too much, but sometimes the dog gets rough before we can separate them. Again nothing that's going to hurt the cat, and the cat isn't too bothered, but I just don't really know what to do to teach the dog that the cat is off limits. The cat is part of the problem because 75% of the time she wants food and is busy running back and forth attracting the dogs attention. So...I don't know. We try to put her on timeout in another room when she does it. Not sure if that's really doing anything...not sure if she's connecting the things or maybe she needs to stay in there longer Trying to give her treats a lot when she sees the cat only seems like it's feasible if we can completely control their interactions...i dunno, maybe it just needs more time, but it's kind of frustrating. I think more exercise would be a huge help but she's not old enough to go to a dog park...we really shouldn't take her for walks because she hasn't finished her vaccinations, so we're left with playing with her inside and she loses interest really fast sometimes. Eh. I dunno e: they'll sit nicely next to each other if the dog knows we're watching and rewarding her for being nice, but the biggest problem is when the cat decides to go somewhere or do something in motion that attracts the dog. Maybe we just need to spend more time on it I guess, and she needs to grow up some, get more exercise, etc Levitate fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jan 1, 2011 |
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Jan 1, 2011 03:55
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Thanks. It's not too bad in general but I had a pretty anxiety filled day yesterday anyways so it felt extra overwhelming! Leashing her to the table probably is a good idea. She's not a fan of that and I think it'd definitely get the timeout message across to her
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Jan 2, 2011 01:09
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a life less posted:Again, we can't really tell them they're wrong since it'd just go in one ear and out the other. We have to show them how to train positively and just hope that the results will speak for themselves. Our trainer basically tells people at the orientation class "I don't believe in this kind of training and if I see you doing this in class I'll ask you to leave", though I think she's really more concerned about people hitting their dogs or being really rough. I think if someone was constantly popping their dog she'd tell them not to do that and show them how to handle the dog, but if they kept with it she'd probably ask them to leave the class. But so far everyone I've seen at the classes is on board with her training  It's kind of strange to have a smart dog in a training class because we're doing a lot of stuff Greta has already learned or really just needs practice on, or she picks it up really fast, while the other dogs are still working on that stuff. But it gives her a good socialization experience and helps us work on things while there are distractions around. It also means the trainer loves our dog, heh. And we get to attend the doggie socials after the class which is kind of like going to a dog park except not outside where it's freaking cold.
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Jan 24, 2011 14:13
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EVG posted:And mostly, how do you do this without training the dog that "Hey, when I do this, I get to go out! Imma do this ALL THE TIME?" instead of "Hey, when I have to potty, and I do this, I get to go out." I've heard one way to do this is when you train them to show some signal...a bark at the door, ring a bell, whatever, you also only take them out for like 5 minutes or just long enough to go relieve themselves. If they don't relieve themselves in 5 minutes, you take them back inside, so they don't get to hang out and have fun outside.
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Jan 24, 2011 20:48
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Rhymes With Clue posted:The trainer doesn't object, but says it's hard if you have six people and six clickers going. We use the word "yes." Our trainer says that in her experience, dogs usually figure out pretty quickly which clicker to listen to, so it doesn't actually get confusing in class. We haven't had that many people in class but 3 or so people doesn't seem to confuse them
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Jan 25, 2011 01:12
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When I was visiting my sister over Christmas, I kept making jokes about clicker training my 4 year old niece. Little did I know...
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Jan 28, 2011 17:22
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I think PI generally frowns on bark collars, even the citronella. If you leave her out of the crate does she still bark or just destroy stuff? Also, what's this DAP collar? Is that the whole pheromone thing that's supposed to calm dogs? I'm kind of worried Greta's car anxiety is getting worse and our trainer suggested that if we can't get it under control. It's not that bad yet, not even close, but I need to start coming up with a plan to get her more comfortable with the car
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Feb 9, 2011 01:30
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Instant Jellyfish posted:Levitate the collar has dog appeasing pheromone, which is secreted by lactating bitches and has a calming effect on a lot of dogs. If you look through my past posts in this thread you can see what all I have done to work on Major's travel anxiety. Sadly there aren't any books about dealing with it but you really need to associate the car with happy fun times. A good way to start is just to hang out in your car and give the dog something awesome to work on like a stuffed kong or bully stick. Yeah, I'm kind of worried she associates the car with the vet, though she's been getting carsick before then. Hanging out in the car with her or giving her a treat is probably a good start. We don't drive her around a lot but it's going to be a problem if it gets worse. She mainly just throws up, but also seems to calm down if it's a longer trip on highways, without the starting and stopping. It just looks like she's getting more anxious about the situation
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Feb 9, 2011 01:48
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It can sometimes freak dogs out even more, or they learn that if they can just stand it long enough, they can empty the canister and bark freely. I knew someone who used one in a similar circumstance, and while it helped some, it wasn't a perfect solution for sure e: just basically saying I'd definitely look into other solutions first Levitate fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Feb 9, 2011 |
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Feb 9, 2011 02:32
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Yeah I think shock collars on an anxious dog like that are more likely to make her freak out and keep barking. Dogs will definitely do that if they're just beyond their ability to control themselves, and it's pretty terrible if they're stuck with a shock collar on
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Feb 9, 2011 02:53
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Hey a life less, did you ever have any problems with your dog being too focused on you or waiting for a command when you try to do behavior shaping? Like I'm thinking of the video you posted of teaching Cohen to pick up her food bowl, and all I can see is my dog ignoring the food bowl and waiting for me to do something. Is there some kind of work you need to do to get the dog more into figuring out what you want from it rather than waiting for a command? Or just start really small and gradually build it up
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Feb 9, 2011 18:29
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Cool, I think that's what I was looking for more or less, thanks
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Feb 9, 2011 19:34
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Nice, thanks. And I know what you mean about the dumb facial expressions, hah. Sylink, basically you just use the clicker to tell the dog when they did the right thing. Like with sit, you get your dog to sit and then you click and praise them and treat them. The dog learns that sitting when you give the cue for it (saying sit, or a hand gesture) will get them a treat. Then you taper off the clicking and treating so when they sit, you just give them praise or something. The clicker is just another form of reward, really. Same as saying "good dog!", just more precise
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Feb 9, 2011 20:31
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Kerfuffle posted:Some people just use regular kibble. I know lifeless sometimes gives entire meals through training sessions. You could try like sample size packed of a different kibble if they don't find their regular food to be motivating. Just never teach them "leave it" with regular kibble  At any rate, you can also try getting soft training treats that you can cut up or tear up into smaller pieces. I've been using the Wellness treats like these: http://www.wellnesspetfood.com/product-details.aspx?pet=dog&pid=85&dm=snack#product You can easily tear them into smaller pieces with your fingers
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Feb 10, 2011 14:30
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Just my experience...our pup seemed to jump to associating kibble with the leave it command...without the command. So if we set her food bowl down next to her she'd sniff it and then jump away like we told her "leave it". It's a little hard to tell if she might have just been being a little nutty and had maybe decided she wasn't a fan of the food or something, but we were about to change foods anyways so it didn't matter too much in the end. I fully admit that my dog could just be weird about that one.
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Feb 10, 2011 17:15
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I'd just start over without the toy and use a treat lure (have her lay down, bring the treat around her shoulder/back so she follows it with her head. She should start rolling over, etc) Might want to not use the word for it until she starts catching on to what you're doing, but I'm not sure if that matters too much...just might confuse her at first if she's really attached to the toy aspect. a life less would probably have a better idea with that. But yeah I'd just break it down to the basics again, I bet she'll catch on quick
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Feb 12, 2011 02:50
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Will she not do the roll over at all without the toy? Or just won't complete it? I mean you might just be able to build off what she's doing without the toy, have her complete the action and then click and treat and she'll catch on
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Feb 12, 2011 03:03
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Yeah I'd probably just start over from scratch. She sounds like she picks things up quickly so it won't be that bad. Do you know the method I was talking about? I can probably dig up a youtube link about it or something
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Feb 12, 2011 03:20
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ahah that is fantastic
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Feb 28, 2011 20:56
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As long as you then share your knowledge with us and let us ask you all kinds of stupid questions then that's OK!
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Mar 22, 2011 14:35
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Why don't you leave him crated? It sounds like it's only a problem when you don't crate him, so the easiest thing is to crate him while you're gone, which lessens teh chances of all kinds of bad stuff happening. If you're against doing that, you probably need to start small and not try to jump all the way to leaving him unsupervised for extended periods of time. Start at like 10 minutes, then build your way up. Don't make a fuss when you leave, and don't make a fuss when you get home (don't acknowledge him getting all excited or crazy about seeing you) and wait until he calms down before giving him attention and treating him. This is kinda more in line for separation anxiety training but it will hopefully help him realize that you leaving is no big deal and that might help the pooping. Just tossing ideas off the top of my head and others probably would have better details. I think poop eating can sometimes be a stage they grow out of too, but don't quote me on that. But really I'd advocate crating him while you're gone. It's not going to hurt him or make him bored or anything. e: VVVV - Listen to alifeless more than me, she's right about making you're leaving the exciting event and not your returning (instead of what I said to make both of them ho hum experiences). But really, crate the dog if this is a big problem Levitate fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Mar 29, 2011 |
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Mar 29, 2011 14:10
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I guess this can go in the training thread... I'm curious if there's any way to help improve the way my dog interacts with other dogs. The basic thing is that Greta looooooves to meet other dogs, gets super amped up and excited (sometimes out of control but we're trying to work on her with that) until she gets face to face with them, and then she usually gets really submissive (she'll get low, sometimes roll over for them). This usually isn't a problem, and I think it tends to happen more with big dogs, but as long as they just sniff and then let her get up, she usually bounds up and is all excited again. Then when she plays, it makes her nervous if other dogs chase her (unless she plays with them enough to get a comfort level it seems) and she'll either go to the ground if she thinks they're really coming after her, or often she'll just run around and then head back to sit by a human for a minute before running off again. Basically, she's kind of nervous about playing chase with other dogs and will get really submissive if they're kind of pushy. This isn't a HUGE deal by itself and she always bounces right back up perky and happy so I'm not that concerned about her being scared and upset and all of that. But it is turning into a problem when there are other dogs who are aggressive and like to loom over her, growl at her while looming or chasing her, or just be REALLY pushy. She'll go submissive and then if they don't back off quickly, she reaches her limit and will go after them, barking and snapping and the whole bit. Again, after things calm down she's usually tails up ears perked and not looking too stressed. Basically I worry that she's getting into a habit of just going after dogs in these circumstances and that her threshold is already kind of low. It hasn't seemed like a big problem until recently where it seems like there's always that one rear end in a top hat dog that will run over to her and growl and stand over her and not let her up until she says "gently caress you" and goes after it, or will start to chase her while growling and trying to nip her. So, one thing, I need to do a better job keeping her and other dogs from getting into these situations, even if it means just leaving the dog park. But is there something I can do to help raise that threshold of hers so she isn't so put off by more aggressive dogs, or isn't as submissive? It seems like some dogs just looooove to take advantage of another dog that acts submissive and will cause problems with her that they don't with other dogs.
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Mar 30, 2011 15:50
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a life less posted:I'm on the opposite side of the spectrum. When Cohen sees one of those uber-submissive dogs she's on them like white on rice. I think it gives her an ego boost since she's generally unsure of herself in other doggy social settings. So, on behalf of all the rear end in a top hat dogs giving yours a hard time, I apologize. Even if the other dogs will offer some give and take, she'll work with them, it's just the ones who want to be like "here let me stand over you and growl at you no really this is just how I play" that upset her. There was a (bigger) dog who wanted to play with her and wanted to play rough, and at first she was kind of taken aback and nervous, but it kept offering her the chance to initiate and jump on top of it and so she started having a pretty good time playing. quote:So, since you're coming at it from the opposite end, I think you also need to become adept at identifying the traits of problem dogs at a distance and be preemptive and get control of Greta. In my opinion, it should always be the more aggressive dogs who bear the responsibility of antisocial behaviour, but not all dog owners have gotten the memo about this, so it's likely you'll end up being the one to leave. If you know she's had issues with Dog Z before, leave the next time Z comes by. Bring a back up ball or something for her to play with instead of dogs and move to the other end of the park at least. Yeah, I can usually peg the problem dogs now but I guess I just need to get over feeling bad about leaving if they're around. It kind of sucks if she's having fun with another dog though. quote:I think the confidence will come in time as she grows. I think her confidence will grow faster if you're able to limit the number of negative experiences she has, even if it means cutting down on socialization in the short term. Will do. My worry is that her tolerance before lashing out might be getting lower so it's probably time to start being really strict about supervising and making sure it doesn't happen. Thanks
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Mar 30, 2011 20:44
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a life less posted:I would expect the clicker charge to take a few days. If he were more mature then maybe a few sessions throughout a day, but the cause-effect is tough for a puppy to see in a world full of distractions. My bet is by the end of the week he'll have figured out click = treat. Man I love herding breeds so much for how quick they catch onto things. Greta figured the clicker out in like 5 minutes at 11 weeks old (well maybe not that quickly, I don't quite remember, but I don't think it was more than a day before she knew a click meant a treat)
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Apr 13, 2011 14:29
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a life less posted:3) People are salty -- licking tastes good. The obvious solution is to bath in Tabasco sauce every day
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Apr 27, 2011 16:11
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uh, that sounds pretty weird. "unresolved emotion"? really? And in practice it looks like basic principals of rewarding a dog for doing what you want it to do, just put into some random terms. The video also doesn't seem to show any of the techniques you mentioned?
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May 3, 2011 18:24
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Not letting her pee for almost 12 hours isn't a great idea and could be a contributing factor. Try to fit in at least one more pee break during the day, preferably more. that's a long time for a dog to go without peeing
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May 17, 2011 18:11
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Instant Jellyfish posted:Ugh, why does Major need have so many problems? He was playing ball yesterday, made a sharp turn and started yelping and limping but walked it off and seemed fine within minutes. It didn't turn out as bad as Major's incident, but it reminds me of my dog racing around the other day, chasing another dog and having a great time, until she tried to corner too sharp and slipped, couldn't recover, and fell, started cartwheeling across the grass  She was fine, just stood up and was like "hmm ok I'm just gonna sit here and pretend nothing happened". As for Boxers, I think they can be kinda big and doofy and that intimates some dogs.
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Aug 14, 2011 00:17
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Yeah, Greta is actually pretty cool with boxers, I think because she had a friend in puppy class that she liked to play with who was a boxer. I think she mainly just likes dogs that will play chase without really trying to "catch" her (not bumping or snapping at her if they catch her). Otherwise she's happy. Not a huge fan of big dogs, I think because some were assholes to her at the park when she was young, but still kinda depends on the dog. There's an irish setter that's a lot bigger than her that she loves to chase aggressively because it doesn't care For the most part though she doesn't care a lot about other dogs unless they want to play chase
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Aug 14, 2011 01:57
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So somehow in the last month or two, Greta seems to have gotten more dog reactive and possessive about food, balls, etc. The dog reactivity is mainly her barking at other dogs while she's on the leash, and it's not every dog...she just seems to get wayyyyy overexcited (tail goes really high in the air) and thinks it's the best thing to bark at the other dog. What's the best way to handle this? Try to use treats to distract her and condition her to look to us when she sees other dogs? The food and toy thing...I don't really know, it seems like maybe it came about after she was at a park and some other big doofy dogs kept stealing her tennis balls. We didn't notice the food thing (cuz we don't have another dog) until my wife took her to my in-laws this past week and she reacted with their dogs (whom she knows and has been fine with in the past). It's mainly barking and kind of getting in their face but not super aggressive growling and teeth barring. While we don't have another dog now, is there something we can/should do to help address this? At the very least I don't want this to turn into her defending her food from us, etc. And since it seems to go hand in hand with the tennis ball/toy guarding to some degree, and kind of advice on resource guarding would be useful. In general I think we need to start working on ways to calm her down. Most of the day she's pretty chill, but when evening rolls around, she seems to have issues with getting wound up easily and having trouble calming down. She usually gets an extended playtime at the park (1.5-2 hours) that involves swimming, chasing sticks, retrieving tennis balls, chasing other dogs, and running through the forest, but still seem to have some problems calming down when she gets home. She can absolutely conk out in the car and look exhausted and then we get home and she starts getting wound up. I would say this is usually this is related to our other pets (cat and rabbit) and she just seems to get overstimulated and every little thing gets her too excited. Might also be related to things just being quieter during the day and me being gone, but then I get home and suddenly everyone's home and she's just too excited. So, man, any kind of work on calming her down would be really useful and advice on how to deal with her getting aggressively barkey with other dogs (during play sometimes as well). And it's not really so bad as I might make it sound, she's not completely bonkers and unmanageable or anything, it just seems like it'd be good to work on managing her excitement level. She's also about 1 year old now so I assume part of this is the young rebellious stage
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Aug 18, 2011 02:42
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She hasn't shown any guarding behavior with us, just with other dogs (she also seems to kind of guard us if she thinks other dogs are getting too rowdy with us). I don't think her barking at other dogs is fear based. She definitely *looks* more excited than fearful (she isn't really tensed up, lips aren't curled back, etc), and from what I've seen of her fear posture, she just isn't displaying that. She's also generally good at meeting other dogs, even on leash. She seems to want to go over and say hi, and there's only ever a problem if she then feels like the other dog is being too pushy and she's kind of restrained and can't move away as she'd like. At this point I've just been trying to get her to do something for me like sit, etc, get her attention on me and a treat and try to get her to calm down a bit and the reward her, etc. She tends to bounce back up and be all way too excited if a minute goes by without a treat though. For the resource guarding with other dogs, is it best to just remove the other dog from the area if it happens? I seem to remember that you shouldn't take away their food/toy since that seems to make them think "other dog=my stuff taken away" edit: here's a specific question about managing her excitement...like I mentioned, we have a bunny and he lives out in the living room, where we fenced off an area. I think this is part looking to stir up excitement, but she'll run over and try to get him to react so that she'll be entertained, or she'll start whining or even barking sometimes. Again, this mostly happens in the evening, so most of the time it's not a problem, but sometimes she's just way too "oh poo poo I wanna go visit that bunny lemme in there! (and if she gets in she just ignores him and tries to eat rabbit poop)". Would I just use the same thing of trying to distract her when she goes running over, treat her for listening to me and not whining/barking, etc? And the bun is pretty cool with it all. He has places to hide if he chooses to and doesn't seem too concerned about the whole thing. Levitate fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 13:46
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wtftastic posted:Any advice working with a dog who isn't food motivated at all? My mother's Tibetan terrier is so uninterested in food that the trainer that my mother worked with told her she was not going to be able to clicker train her. I've tried everything from praising and petting her like crazy to different treats. Does she like toys? You can use them as a reward as well
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Aug 19, 2011 23:53
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Kerfuffle posted:Dogs hump stuff because it feels good man and Yeah my dog gets pissed as gently caress when other dogs try to hump her. And usually the problem with Great Pyrenees' is they can be insanely protective and generally need a "job" (usually protecting something...) as well as enough space to get exercise, etc. All that's usually not conducive to an apartment complex
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Aug 30, 2011 13:48
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. Even fixed dogs, both male and female do it. Obviously it's not something you want to encourage since 1. It's pretty rude and 2. It might end your dog getting bit.
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How do I train my dog to make me coffee in the morning. This would greatly help streamline my morning routine
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Nov 4, 2011 02:22
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I've just started using a french press I think this is going to be complicated 
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Nov 4, 2011 04:15
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I'm running into a roadblock with some training stuff that's my own problem...I really cannot think of good hang signals to help train my dog. I've kind of stopped and started trying to train some stuff like beg but can't get a real good handle on how to transition from getting her to sit up and to a legit hand signal I dunno, I guess I haven't done some good legit trick training in awhile and I'm struggling :\ any pointers people might have in mind?
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Dec 6, 2011 02:13
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I totally missed this but why do you have to go through a training session before you can be deemed worthy of adopting the dog?
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Dec 11, 2011 18:55
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My dog has intentionally decided to "hold it" for like 12 hours or more when she reallllllly just wanted to stay in her crate and sleep in or something I have no idea 
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Dec 14, 2011 14:27
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