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Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Agggh, my prusa has suddenly stopped sticking support material to the bed:



this is on a freshly cleaned plate with dish soap until water didn't stick, using jessie transitional PLA that i've used several times before.

I'm this close to just reslicing the entire file and recalibrating the machine.


Edit: reslice has similar results. gonna recalibrate this guy, i can move it onto my new workbench anyway.

Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Jul 12, 2021

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Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Tom really likes the Voron.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E0dM0ZdpRE

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013


Was just about to post that. CoreXY's are such a big improvement over the bed slingers.

Edit: He also throws the Klipper community under the bus...

ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jul 12, 2021

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Was just about to post that. CoreXY's are such a big improvement over the bed slingers

I like his "gently caress the Klipper community, I'm not going to ever use the product because of how loving toxic those people are; the Voron community and (other community) I worked with while building this project were great people though" aside near the end of the video.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004


I don't need a new project, I don't need a new project, my Prusa is plenty fine......

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Deviant posted:

Agggh, my prusa has suddenly stopped sticking support material to the bed:



this is on a freshly cleaned plate with dish soap until water didn't stick, using jessie transitional PLA that i've used several times before.

I'm this close to just reslicing the entire file and recalibrating the machine.


Edit: reslice has similar results. gonna recalibrate this guy, i can move it onto my new workbench anyway.

Didn't want to ignore this. I had a similar problem with one of my build plates for the Mini recently and haven't figured out the problem yet (the other plates work fine, it's just this specific plate).

Maybe it's a random quality problem in the PEI coating? Like, something happened to the material that makes it where PLA/whatever no longer wants to stick to it as well as it used to?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


biracial bear for uncut posted:

Didn't want to ignore this. I had a similar problem with one of my build plates for the Mini recently and haven't figured out the problem yet (the other plates work fine, it's just this specific plate).

Maybe it's a random quality problem in the PEI coating? Like, something happened to the material that makes it where PLA/whatever no longer wants to stick to it as well as it used to?

Maybe. I'll flip it over and try the other side. This thing worked great until i started this piece, which admittedly the previous plates didn't use as much of the build area

This even happens after a full recalibration (which looks perfect, I might add. Resettled at a z adjust of -1.000 precisely after moving to its new workbench home.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Double post for an update rather than an edit: seems to stick better on the other side of the plate. Maybe I did just get a bit of dodgy PEI. Will replace...eventually.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Did you clean it?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


ImplicitAssembler posted:

Did you clean it?

Yes, but it had been cleaned 100% with dish soap before the faulty attempts as well. I smell like a dawn bottling plant and the sink is spotless.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Deviant posted:

Yes, but it had been cleaned 100% with dish soap before the faulty attempts as well. I smell like a dawn bottling plant and the sink is spotless.

LOL. Ok :)

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Are there any good places to get resin from in Canada (Winnipeg area specifically) other than Amazon.ca? And are there any brands I should try to use (or try to avoid like the plague)?

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Randalor posted:

Are there any good places to get resin from in Canada (Winnipeg area specifically) other than Amazon.ca? And are there any brands I should try to use (or try to avoid like the plague)?

They're all sold out atm but https://siraya.tech/. I don't know what you're printing, but if it's miniatures I will swear by the Grey ABS-Like resin.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Sockser posted:

On the topic of 3d printed sex toys, here’s a guide on how to do it quickly and safely!

https://www.billieruben.info/post/3d-printing-sex-toys-a-quick-easy-and-safe-method

She also has a 3d printed sex toy discord that’s pretty rad.

The beeswax angle is pretty damned clever. Really great idea for lining a 3D printed mold that is intended for ones and twos quantities. (And it doesn't inhibit curing, but paraffin does, apparently)

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Deviant posted:

Agggh, my prusa has suddenly stopped sticking support material to the bed:



this is on a freshly cleaned plate with dish soap until water didn't stick, using jessie transitional PLA that i've used several times before.

I'm this close to just reslicing the entire file and recalibrating the machine.


Edit: reslice has similar results. gonna recalibrate this guy, i can move it onto my new workbench anyway.

The only time I washed build plates with soap I used a small amount of Tide Free (no perfumes, etc). I didn't want to take the chance that any additives like scents or moisturizers would get in the way. Maybe that's an issue?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I love the build area and the CoreXY of the voron 2.4.

Is there an easy kit like a prusa?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Deviant posted:

I love the build area and the CoreXY of the voron 2.4.

Is there an easy kit like a prusa?

No. But the 2.4 is easier than building a v0.

It's one of those things, if you're asking if there's and easier way, you shouldn't be building a voron.

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon
I printed my first bigger thing, for me that is a print time of more than 10 hours. The mother of my gf is having a birthday soon and likes owls. I printed one in white PLA. Then modified a tree stump model to grab the owl a bit so it doesn't fall off and printed that with wood filament.



The stump is hollowed out and there's a 10W LED bulb in there which comes with a remote.

(lowest setting)


(highest setting)



The LED can also change colors of course.





I'm very happy with it, ordered some other LEDs and will make some lamps for a while I think :) Biggest problem was the need to be hollow. I used 5% Archimedean Chords in Prusa which were relatively easy to pull out but leftovers can be seen if you look at it from the top.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Deviant posted:

I love the build area and the CoreXY of the voron 2.4.

Is there an easy kit like a prusa?

The Voron 0.1 LDO kit from printed solid coming out soon looks great. They plan to do 2.4 in the next few months.

Right now, you can get a formlabs kit, but most people are replacing enough parts that self sourcing is better option. You can get decent kits for frame, hardware, and wiring, which seems like it knocks out a lot of the sourcing headache.

I dont want to go through and order 20 different screws and nuts, or good lord wire an entire loom. Rather pay a bit to get a good baseline and rewire just what I need to, if anything.

I'm probably going to do a 0.1 here soon, need something I can carry out to the garage to do some ABS.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

RabbitWizard posted:

I printed my first bigger thing, for me that is a print time of more than 10 hours. The mother of my gf is having a birthday soon and likes owls. I printed one in white PLA. Then modified a tree stump model to grab the owl a bit so it doesn't fall off and printed that with wood filament.



The stump is hollowed out and there's a 10W LED bulb in there which comes with a remote.

(lowest setting)


That looks super cool; I love the wood filament stump! The owl is adorable as well.

I made a lithophane lamp that worked kind of the same way, but I added one of these inline motion sensor switches (https://www.amazon.com/Sensky-BS010l-Motion-Sensor-occupancy/dp/B00JLB0GM6/) so that it turned on for a brief (and adjustable) time whenever motion was detected.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

RabbitWizard posted:

I printed my first bigger thing, for me that is a print time of more than 10 hours. The mother of my gf is having a birthday soon and likes owls. I printed one in white PLA. Then modified a tree stump model to grab the owl a bit so it doesn't fall off and printed that with wood filament.



The stump is hollowed out and there's a 10W LED bulb in there which comes with a remote.

(lowest setting)


(highest setting)



The LED can also change colors of course.





I'm very happy with it, ordered some other LEDs and will make some lamps for a while I think :) Biggest problem was the need to be hollow. I used 5% Archimedean Chords in Prusa which were relatively easy to pull out but leftovers can be seen if you look at it from the top.

First off… Adorable.

Second, wtf is wood filament? How does that work?

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

The Eyes Have It posted:

That looks super cool; I love the wood filament stump! The owl is adorable as well.

I made a lithophane lamp that worked kind of the same way, but I added one of these inline motion sensor switches (https://www.amazon.com/Sensky-BS010l-Motion-Sensor-occupancy/dp/B00JLB0GM6/) so that it turned on for a brief (and adjustable) time whenever motion was detected.
Great Idea, I'm going to order a motion sensor, I'm sure I can use it somewhere.

Bucnasti posted:

First off… Adorable.

Second, wtf is wood filament? How does that work?
It's PLA with real wood fibers mixed in it. Apparently you can vary the shade of the color with different temperatures. I didn't manage that yet, but the spool I have is really, really old. Sanding works well with it. It also smells kinda nice while printing.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

What's the main forum/community for the Voron? I want to see build pics to get some ideas, the reddit thread seems to be all serial number requests? Teetering on wanting to build one. I need a new project.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

mattfl posted:

What's the main forum/community for the Voron? I want to see build pics to get some ideas, the reddit thread seems to be all serial number requests? Teetering on wanting to build one. I need a new project.

This seems to be the closest thing to it. There are a lot of threads posted there of different builds as people request a serial number for their complete machine.

https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS



Finally belted my voron 0.1

Just need to wire it and get the electronics rolling

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

biracial bear for uncut posted:

This seems to be the closest thing to it. There are a lot of threads posted there of different builds as people request a serial number for their complete machine.

https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/

Ya, that seems to work, going through the builds now.

thanks!

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

w00tmonger posted:



Finally belted my voron 0.1

Just need to wire it and get the electronics rolling

Oh man I hadn't considered the color possibilities outside of the printed parts. That's beautiful.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Anyone ever considered using a chemistry ring stand or similar as a vat drainer/bottle caddy? I was going to build one, but this seems to do exactly what I want.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

NewFatMike posted:

Oh man I hadn't considered the color possibilities outside of the printed parts. That's beautiful.

Man, some neon belts and wiring would be sick but I'm not sure where you'd source them

Vorons are a lot of work btw and in hindsight I probably would have just bought the formlabs 2.4 kit. That said I really wanted a small adorable printer

mewse
May 2, 2006


Glad he did this follow up vid because the livestream series ended with a failed print and him being pissed off at the Klipper people

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

w00tmonger posted:

Man, some neon belts and wiring would be sick but I'm not sure where you'd source them

Vorons are a lot of work btw and in hindsight I probably would have just bought the formlabs 2.4 kit. That said I really wanted a small adorable printer

Could run some lengths of EL wire along your wiring bundles and maybe put them on an isolated power line so as to not interfere with the rest of the electronics (that is still somehow fed by the printer's power supply)?


mewse posted:

Glad he did this follow up vid because the livestream series ended with a failed print and him being pissed off at the Klipper people

He addresses this near the end.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Filablend is closing up shop and I am very sad about this.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Bucnasti posted:

First off… Adorable.

Second, wtf is wood filament? How does that work?

Very carefully. If you aren't careful with your settings you can get a serious drat clog in your printer's hotend if enough fiber buildup in the nozzle occurs and things get hot enough to burn the fibers.

It won't be as dramatic as igniting the filament or anything, but you'll basically have to strip the hotend and replace the nozzle (if you're lucky) or replace the entire hotend (if the charring gets up into the heat break).

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer

mattfl posted:

Ya, that seems to work, going through the builds now.
The Reddit is like 90% people posting to get a serial number and not a lot of discussion. The Discord has a ton of activity on it but also does not lend itself to browsing for information.
https://discord.gg/voron

The Voron 2.4 kits are a bit cheaper because you're getting questionable parts, but expect to spend around $1500 to build one if you source the parts yourself.

CapnBry fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Jul 15, 2021

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

CapnBry posted:

The Reddit is like 90% people posting to get a serial number and not a lot of discussion. The Discord has a ton of activity on it but also does not lend itself to browsing for information.
https://discord.gg/voron

The Voron kits are a bit cheaper because you're getting questionable parts, but expect to spend around $1500 to build one if you source the parts yourself.

Yeah my sourced 0.1 was about 8-900CAD. Sounds like the formbot kit is fine, but you could definitely put some better motors etc in it if you were so inclined

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

w00tmonger posted:

Yeah my sourced 0.1 was about 8-900CAD. Sounds like the formbot kit is fine, but you could definitely put some better motors etc in it if you were so inclined

The 350mm cube at $899+shipping isn't too bad if you print the printed parts with another printer, based on Tom's review.

https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voron-24-corexy-3d-printer-kit-with-different-print-sizes-for-choice

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

biracial bear for uncut posted:

The 350mm cube at $899+shipping isn't too bad if you print the printed parts with another printer, based on Tom's review.

https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voron-24-corexy-3d-printer-kit-with-different-print-sizes-for-choice

He also made it quite clear that it was kinda pointless to spend that much money on a printer and then using the cheap-rear end extruder that comes with the kit...and yes, you will get a significant improvement in print quality with a better extruder.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Eh, nothing terribly wrong with a quality v6 clone. Just needs to melt the plastic, as long as you aren't outrunning it you'll be fine.

Print speed might suffer compared to a higher flow hot end.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Dr. Despair posted:

Eh, nothing terribly wrong with a quality v6 clone. Just needs to melt the plastic, as long as you aren't outrunning it you'll be fine.

Print speed might suffer compared to a higher flow hot end.

Nah,. you'll get far better retraction and consistent flowrate with a better hotend. I've been using non-cloned E3D V6's for most of my print-setups and saw a huge jump in quality when I got a Copperhead. The heatbreaks are far better on the newer hotends.

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Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

ImplicitAssembler posted:

He also made it quite clear that it was kinda pointless to spend that much money on a printer and then using the cheap-rear end extruder that comes with the kit...and yes, you will get a significant improvement in print quality with a better extruder.

I have a couple genuine v6s in a bin from back when I daydreamed about building my own dual extruder machine (before concluding it was a gimmick for my purposes anyway).

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