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ugh, the prusa experienced its first major clog. Came back to no extrusion and nasty clunking of motor. Wonder if this has anything to do with the other problems I've been having inconsistently. I got it to extrude again but I wonder if there's more crap jammed in the nozzle or PTFE I suppose my process is cold pull -> replace PTFE -> replace nozzle?
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Jul 14, 2021 14:56
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All of the above. It just isn't worth the headache of half-measures.
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Jul 14, 2021 15:25
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biracial bear for uncut posted:All of the above. It just isn't worth the headache of half-measures. well, if i'm replacing the parts, why bother with the cold pull? To clear the heatbreak, I guess? i already extracted the filament via Unload but i suspect there's burnt crap jammed in there and it's still on its original tube/nozzle so it's had a good run with no real maintenance Edit: ugh, i thought the prusa came with a spare nozzle. so i'm down until that arrives. Deviant fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jul 14, 2021 |
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Jul 14, 2021 15:35
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Stocking spare parts for consumables (and nozzles are a consumable) is one of those things that needs to be in the OP whenever a new thread is made for this (if it isn't already).
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Jul 14, 2021 15:47
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Stocking spare parts for consumables (and nozzles are a consumable) is one of those things that needs to be in the OP whenever a new thread is made for this (if it isn't already). Well I thought I had one.  I got an extra everything else, and two pre-cut PTFEs even.
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Jul 14, 2021 15:58
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Deviant posted:ugh, the prusa experienced its first major clog. Came back to no extrusion and nasty clunking of motor. Do you have a sock on it? I would get random clogs on my Mk3+ and apparently the filament path narrows in the newest model, and sometimes filament backs up if the temperature dips too much (such as when the fan kicks in). It was recommended to put a sock on the hot end, or replace it with an earlier model. I put a sock on it, and I haven't had clogs since.
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Jul 14, 2021 16:54
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Stocking spare parts for consumables (and nozzles are a consumable) is one of those things that needs to be in the OP whenever a new thread is made for this (if it isn't already). Sagebrush said they had one cooking up but that was a while ago - I can make one this weekend if no one has any objection
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Jul 14, 2021 17:06
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Stocking spare parts for consumables (and nozzles are a consumable) is one of those things that needs to be in the OP whenever a new thread is made for this (if it isn't already). So who's got the spare thread?
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Jul 14, 2021 20:25
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Fully prepared to be ridiculed as I probably have done something wrong, but here's the deal: Got my Elegoo Mars 2 Pro a few days ago and sat down to test print tonight. Got it set up, levelled the build plate, put on a dubious screen protector, the whole shebang. Loaded up the little rook piece provided by Elegoo (hey it's what they've got on board, why not?) and set it to print. Prints came out beautifully, washed up great in my sonic cleaner. There's just one problem. They won't come off the build plate at all. I'm talking using a metal scraper trying to not scratch the build plate but at this point all I have been capable of is destroying the base of these rooks. Which I don't care too much about, they were proof of concept for the new printer and all. Any suggestions? I didn't sand the build plate prior to printing but I read Elegoo's are pre-textured and the manual made no note of it. Here's a picture of my carnage in case anyone would like some schadenfreude. The plate did not start that scratched but as I grew more frustrated and desperate my mad slashing began. The resin is Elegoo's own water-washable ceramic grey:  I'd like to salvage my build plate but I'm running out of ideas. A flex plate is very quickly going into my shopping cart for whenever I resolve this Zodack fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 06:13
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Freeze in a freezer. It'll help pop em off easy. Also, relevel your print bed.
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Jul 15, 2021 06:43
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Freeze in a freezer. It'll help pop em off easy. Can do, thanks. I was planning on a re-level after the beating I gave the plate, is that why you suggested that or did I miss something?
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Jul 15, 2021 06:50
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Just in general it's a good idea. However, nothing should be that glued to the plate like that. It's just a smidge too low.
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Jul 15, 2021 07:23
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And don’t worry about scratching the build plate. As long as you don’t put a gouge in it, it will be fine.
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Jul 15, 2021 11:15
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I was having a series of problems with our big dual extruder printer. Talked to the manufacturer and they said, “hey, yeah, I see you’re using simplify3D. We’ve been moving away from that in our print farm because the support and development is lacking these days. We’ve got beta configs for PrusaSlicer, try those” as part of their suggestions. I’ve only done single extruder prints so far, but it’s like a whole new printer. Gentler movements, finer work done on curves, and I swear, quieter too. Also wayyyyyy loving better organization of settings in the software.
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Jul 15, 2021 11:51
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:I was having a series of problems with our big dual extruder printer. Talked to the manufacturer and they said, “hey, yeah, I see you’re using simplify3D. We’ve been moving away from that in our print farm because the support and development is lacking these days. We’ve got beta configs for PrusaSlicer, try those” as part of their suggestions. Yeah, I haven't used Simplify3D in years. It was handy back in the day when you were using lovely hobbyist printers and Cura/other free slicers just weren't up to the level they are today, though. Early on it paid for itself in not resulting in wasted prints because of supports that were welded into the printed object/etc.
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Jul 15, 2021 13:19
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Zodack posted:Fully prepared to be ridiculed as I probably have done something wrong, but here's the deal:
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Jul 15, 2021 14:05
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:I was having a series of problems with our big dual extruder printer. Talked to the manufacturer and they said, “hey, yeah, I see you’re using simplify3D. We’ve been moving away from that in our print farm because the support and development is lacking these days. We’ve got beta configs for PrusaSlicer, try those” as part of their suggestions. Pretty funny that even the bigger commercial printer manufacturers are going for PrusaSlicer now.
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Jul 15, 2021 14:19
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Wibla posted:Pretty funny that even the bigger commercial printer manufacturers are going for PrusaSlicer now. Prusaslicer is the real poo poo and covers everything so cleanly. Just being to hover over every setting for a description and search for options you can't find is huge
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Jul 15, 2021 16:56
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I've moved from Cura to PrusaSlicer because I was having horrible adhesion issues and I couldn't find a physical reason why. So I gave it a shot and holy poo poo it's so much better.
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Jul 15, 2021 17:01
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Has anyone messed around with this yet? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omZo31BTU30 I didn't even know you could add things into the model from prusaslicer.
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Jul 15, 2021 20:10
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Ghostnuke posted:I didn't even know you could add things into the model from prusaslicer. you absolutely can. I use .2mm thick cylinders at corners to prevent lift-up. they call it 'mouse ears'
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Jul 15, 2021 20:41
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Prusaslicer always splats a model down into contact with the build plate. You cannot position a model in midair. Unless you add another model or shape as a part of the parent model, then you can position that anywhere and anyhow you like. That took me a while to figure out 
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Jul 15, 2021 21:44
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The Eyes Have It posted:Prusaslicer always splats a model down into contact with the build plate. You cannot position a model in midair. There's even a "place on plate" button!
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Jul 16, 2021 02:11
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https://llldmax.com/product/10-x-llldmax-pla-premium-3d-printer-filament-free-shipping/ Great price if you wanna bulk buy some filament. 10 rolls for 89 with free shipping. Dunno if it's good or not, but hey, it's cheap. Gst3d.com has a similar one going with it being 10 bucks cheaper. Low stock though. Dunno about either filament, but figured someone might need some stock.
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Jul 16, 2021 06:39
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This is the worst thread title That said, when printing Duplo (toddler legos) adapters for stuff, make sure you print at 20% infill or higher, 5% is not enough to take the strain of the... connectors, teeth, whatever
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Jul 16, 2021 10:51
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:https://llldmax.com/product/10-x-llldmax-pla-premium-3d-printer-filament-free-shipping/ I took a chance on some of this fairly recently when they had 10 for $85, and I'm honestly kind of impressed at how well it prints for what it costs. Seems to be good material overall with consistent diameter. The spools are a bit weird, sort of janky injection molded things, but no snags or tangles so far and I've used up three full rolls.
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Jul 16, 2021 12:15
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Zodack posted:Fully prepared to be ridiculed as I probably have done something wrong, but here's the deal: 1) use the right scraper-type tool, something with a very fine leading edge and rounded-off corners (that's where the build plate scratches come from) that you can work under the model and gradually lift it off the plate. the scraper that comes with the printer is atrocious and shouldn't be used unless you've used a sharpening stone to fix the horrible grind it comes with. ive posted about my go-to tool for this, a Japanese carpenter's knife; I have never met a model that this couldn't deplate fairly easily and without scratching the build plate, and I consider it an acceptable long-term substitute for a flex plate.  2) 'knock' the model off with a single firm strike with a blunt object like a mallet. obviously this isn't viable for super fragile parts, but it's pretty effective, and you can limit collateral damage significantly by striking with a "hammer and punch" approach instead of just a 'hammer'- what I mean is precisely locating a blunt 'punch' bar of some sort on a solid part of the model, ideally at the base and perpendicular to the build plate, and then striking the punch with your mallet instead of directly striking the model. This guarantees a very precise application of force and lets you 'knock off' surprisingly delicate models as long as they have a solid base. Do this over your wash tub or the model might break on the floor.
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Jul 16, 2021 17:34
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Yeah but like...just buy a flex plate
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Jul 17, 2021 00:27
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fair enough, but until the plate gets here, it's worth knowing you can knock prints clean off. people w resin printers should probably know how to run a part successfully with their stock machine even if they don't plan on using it that way on a day-to-day basis, so its worth knowing imo
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jul 17, 2021 |
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Jul 17, 2021 01:35
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Sticking build plates with adhered parts in the freezer works for fdm, presumably it'll work for resin as well.
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Jul 17, 2021 02:34
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For awhile I had set it up so my heated build plate would cool off after like 10 layers because I figured it wasn’t needed at that point. Then I figured out my increase in print failures was due the thermal contraction making things just pop off the bed. 
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Jul 17, 2021 03:15
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Hypnolobster posted:Sticking build plates with adhered parts in the freezer works for fdm, presumably it'll work for resin as well. Sure, if you don't mind getting residual resin in the freezer itself.
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Jul 17, 2021 09:04
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I pop mine into a big gallon Ziploc and then put that in a sealed/tied plastic Walmart bag. If it can't fit in the Ziploc I just do multiple layers of plastic bags or a garbage bag to ensure everything stays ok.
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Jul 17, 2021 09:51
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Switched from amazon brand PLA to hatchbox brand PLA (price differential: approx $1), no adhesion issues at all, did like three prints in a row today no issues, kicked off a 23-hour print a couple hours ago, working great so farStupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I pop mine into a big gallon Ziploc and then put that in a sealed/tied plastic Walmart bag. If it can't fit in the Ziploc I just do multiple layers of plastic bags or a garbage bag to ensure everything stays ok. I bought one of these, comes with two units, very comfortably holds a 1kg spool, i dunno where you would buy a 2kg or 5kg spool, but it would probably hold one of those, as well. $25 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082J52RPW 
Hadlock fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Jul 17, 2021 |
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Jul 17, 2021 10:16
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I meant my stuck resin print on the build plate. Those are pretty cool though!
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Jul 17, 2021 12:15
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I pop mine into a big gallon Ziploc and then put that in a sealed/tied plastic Walmart bag. If it can't fit in the Ziploc I just do multiple layers of plastic bags or a garbage bag to ensure everything stays ok. Ok I’m not one to do this often but at that point just buy a build plate.
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Jul 17, 2021 14:46
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I’ve definitely had a few FDM prints stick like hell to the glass Creality bed, than even after being out into the freezer, had to be whacked off the build plate with a block and mallet. Definitely get a flexible build plate whether it’s for an FDM or Resin printer. Saves so much bullshit. Fwiw I’m using a Th3d ‘EZMat’ on their springsteel bed. After a good 7 months of use I had to give it a quick sand with 600grit sandpaper and it’s good as new.
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Jul 17, 2021 16:54
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Can you cure multiple models at once in a curing machine, or is it better to do them one at a time?
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Jul 18, 2021 17:21
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I do multiples at a time on the turntable ones, but I never wondered if that might help
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Jul 18, 2021 17:49
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Randalor posted:Can you cure multiple models at once in a curing machine, or is it better to do them one at a time? I don’t let them overlap but as long as your platform is rotating it will be fine. I do flip mine over and do another cycle even though I have a reflective surface underneath.
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Jul 18, 2021 18:07
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