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Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




snackmar posted:

Speaking of scanning, a guy named Oliver Kreylos is doing some neat stuff with the Kinect.

Right now he's got it such that he can do 3D movement of a scene in real-time: http://idav.ucdavis.edu/~okreylos/ResDev/Kinect/MainPage.html (jump to 40 seconds into the first video if you're pressed for time)

Makes me wonder if it could be used as a really easy 3D scanner, like just sitting an object on a turntable and spinning it to bust out a workable 3D model.


I've watched this gif like, 30 times and it's still making my head swim

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Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




I'm probably going to buy a 3d printer when tax return season comes 'round. There's a 3d printer I can use at my Hackerspace but babysitting a community printer for 10 hours kind of blows so it seems practical to get my own. I've used Bukito and LulzBot, and I really quite like the Lulzbot, and it fits kinda into my price range, in the low $1000s.

What's a decent printer for some sorta rear end in a top hat like me? Or what should I look at to get a better idea of what I want?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




sharkytm posted:

LOL. Today is your Menthos and Diet Coke day. Yes, one side is threaded. Thread the bolt into that side first, and keep going through the unthreaded side until the length you want is in the middle. Snap the bolt off, and as you unscrew it, the threads will get reformed. Enjoy!

As for hardware, I wanted quality stuff, not Chinese garbage, so I ordered a bunch of sizes and lengths from McMaster Carr here in the US. Dunno if you have something comparable, but an industrial supply company is what you're looking for.

Holy poo poo i was about to buy some of those auto adjusting strippers but maybe I should just upgrade my normal strippers instead

My current pair just has holes for stripping smaller and larger wires than the teeth can handle

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Someone please convince me not to drop $800 on a Prusa right now and instead use that money to buy something else like a new saw or something

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




MrDesaude posted:


- Buy a second steel sheet and a spool or 2 of Prusa filament when you order the printer. Shipping from Prague is spendy, and they are still not on amazon, bastards.
I say "Buy a second sheet" because it reduces wear on your PEI coatings, and the process of replacing it on these steel sheets is kind of a pain in the rear end. It also gives you the ability to just pull a fresh finished print cool, and throw a new sheet on for a quick turnaround.

They’re running a special on mk3s kits now so shipping is only $50 or so, but as soon as you add anything else to the order shipping shoots up to regular Czech pricing levels
And dropping an extra $30 on shipping for a couple spoils of filament is something I don’t think I can swallow

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Prusa’s website said a 2-3 week lead time on orders but my Mk3s arrives on Monday woo


Which means I very quickly need to hit amazon for some extra filament— recommendations?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Frozen Pizza Party posted:

When did you order, out of curiosity, and are you in the us? Also, not on Amazon that I know of, but atomicfilament is the bee's knees.

I ordered on the 26th and it shipped on the 1st, so ... 3 day turnaround as opposed to 3 week

Parts Kit posted:

I've been having good results with Hatchbox PLA and PETG.

Keep in mind that along with the printer Prusa will send you a roll of their PLA filament, which is absolutely awesome.

Yeah I know that, which is why my filament showing up Wednesday isn’t a big deal, but I figured I’d be blowing through that first roll real quick with calibration prints and such

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!








Well that sucked


And now it’s 230 am so I def don’t have time for calibration and test prints and I really hope I put this together right cause I have a worrying amount of spare parts

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




nine16thsdago posted:

Worked from 7PM - 2AM on mine and got to the last assembly chapter (brain-box). Had a strange issue with the z axis not going all the way up on xyz calibration. Finally printing the prusa logo after ~4 hours work today, downloading octopi in the meantime...

I was working on calibration over lunch. Prusa logo failed pretty hard due to bad adhesion

Watched a YouTube video where a dude suggested just cranking the z down until you can’t just slide the filament off the bed with your finger so I worked at that and it was looking good but then I was already over my lunch break and I didn’t want to start a test print and walk away so now I’m real anxious to get home and start printing rocktopus and benchies and Dragon dicks and some printer upgrades

I also have no idea how all the cables are supposed to fit so comfortably inside the control box, mine has a pretty good bow to the door because it’s all just shoved in as best as I could

Sockser fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Mar 5, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Babby’s first benchy

Decided to go whole hog and skip the Prusa logo test print
Got a decent initial z, went straight for the benchy




The tops of the arches are just a tiny bit hosed and the top of the front window has a wonky corner, but overall a solid 9.5/10

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Yesterday I had my Z level dialed in perfect and everything was going great
Tonight, it's somehow dropped by a good amount, such that there wasn't enough room between the print bed and the extruder for it to actually like, extrude

So the extruder gears were skipping or something and it was making an awful noise

Got it sorted, but I've got a suuuuuper thin layer of PLA filament stuck to my build plate that I can't even fingernail off. Should I just let it go and let another print peel it off or is there some sort of magic I can do?


E:
Something still needs adjusted, this first layer is lookin hosed

Sockser fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Mar 7, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




expectation: I'll start this print before I go to bed and wake up to an army of perfectly printed neon orange dicks

reality: I'll wake up to a bunch of ballsacks thrown all over my floor and a giant wad of ABS burned onto my hot end and a printer that can't Z home anymore

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




An hour of loving around led me to adjusting the Pinda sensor. Now it’s not crashing the nozzle into the bed any more so that’s cool, but I didn’t have enough time to run through a full calibration

Also a bunch of PETG showed up in the mail so now I can throw all that awful awful ABS into a closet and forget about it forever

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




nine16thsdago posted:

i haven't had quite the trouble you've shared, but i suspect my PINDA sensor has moved slightly as well. i printed an ESP8266 case this morning and the bottom (1st layer) of the thing is visibly different on one side than the other. i've had a few other quirks as well. perhaps i should tighten it up and re-run the calibration / test patterns (the bottom layer of the prusa logo benchmark works great for this, BTW).

what PETG did you order? i'm expecting a spool of amazonbasics in the mail tomorrow...

I got some orange Amazon Basics to hopefully match the Prusa parts so I can add some bits to it, as well as these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6WENG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D76FY15/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9AF0JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've only printed with the first so far, but it's been pretty great, albeit stringy as hell, but I am just using the default PET settings in slic3r







e:
hell yeah

Sockser fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Mar 9, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




The amazon basics filament is not printing as nicely as my weird Chinese YOYI PETG, it’s getting all boogery on the first layer



I guess half the fun of having a 3d printer is having to dial in exact settings for every different roll of filament, but what exactly should I be playing with here?

E:
And you can see it’s not all of the pieces in a single print that are going weird

Sockser fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Mar 9, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Finally found a spare Pi3 in my house that wasn't fried and set up Octoprint :toot:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4ZF8hT0PDQ

Definitely need to do something with the camera though, it's pretty atrocious

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Motronic posted:

You also probably want to install the octolapse plugin so you can hold the print head at a fixed point for each snapshot. I donlt have my cameras exactly where I want them yet, but......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkK6GY0sCdU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgQTMxOatcs

If you are using a Logitech C310 or 2(90?) you can find a manual focus mod on thingiverse.

Yeah I've got that focus mod queued up to print in the next few days.

How much time does Octolapse add to your prints?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Finally getting really really nice PETG prints, decide to run off a quick PLA print
Whoops everything's hosed again

This is a fun hobby.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Ha ha ha I loving forgot to turn infill back on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jN_dJrOhvHs

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Layer shifts are usually a sign that I need to tension a belt, yeah? Had a print running overnight, and granted I had it going at like 130 speed but


(Supposed to be vertical)

Sockser fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Mar 13, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Nah, that’s just the way either the light or motion blur is catching things—




I decided to let it go even though the print wasn’t going to work, and now I have a shift in the Y axis as well



e: I did have it printing a 140% of Prusa's standard PETG settings
and I did have octolapse yanking the extruder off to the corner every 3 minutes


But I killed it and I'm gonna restart it and run it slower this time and see what happens

Sockser fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Mar 13, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




3d printers are neat because you slice something up, send it to the printer, come back in 12 hours, and you now you have a thing, just like that


Except I find myself continually hypnotized just watching it go back and forth for like 30 minutes at a time

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!






Playing around with some stuff to try to get my infill visible behind my perimeters, this one worked decently but the pattern is too small.
I’ve got another print going now with 3d honeycomb infill cranked down to like 3% but so far it’s looking basically the same, despite the pattern looking kind of huge in slic3r (or maybe I printed the gyroid one instead)

Are there like... alternative infills that do more of a vertical tiling than a horizontal tiling? I could theoretically run this print on its side instead of its base but then I need to gently caress with a ton of supports, but just being able to get some funky patterns showing through these should be neat, I think?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Frozen Pizza Party posted:

Did you get your skipped steps figured out, if so what was it?

No fuckin clue. I just reran the print at 125% speed instead of 150% and no problems outside of some gummy stringing but that comes with the PETG

So I’m just kind of accepting that I should never crank my printer past like ~135-140

Sockser fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Mar 14, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Sockser posted:

No fuckin clue. I just reran the print at 125% speed instead of 150% and no problems outside of some gummy stringing but that comes with the PETG

So I’m just kind of accepting that I should never crank my printer past like ~135-140

Spoke too soon- layer shift after 6 hours

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Sockser posted:

Spoke too soon- layer shift after 6 hours



Got home, checked some stats on the printer, tightened up the x belt (tension was at exactly 280), cool

Checked fail stats, had 8 Y crashes and 1 X crash, which I imagine corresponds to that layer shift, but I have no idea where the hell that crash occurred-- unless it was me doing something wrong with Octolapse?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Jestery posted:

The transparent filament i got for that bin up there is being difficult.

Because if needs high effective temps to take in the heat I need to make a new profile to use it.

Frustrating, but oh well.

I'll keep getting black, it prints easier

What kind of filament is it?

I’ve been running my transparent PETG at 240 and my solid PETG at 235 or so and that’s been a good setup

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Jestery posted:

It is transparent PLA

And there is like "disagreement?" Between print speeds and temps and volumetric speeds.

I think my infill is printed at 80mm/s and that's too fast for it to melt for the infill, but for other parts it's too hot.

Having to crank it to 260 (I have a 0.6 nozzle) and it's just annoying to deal when the black filament was so pleasant and responsive

Edit:just need to print slower is all really

260 for PLA?! That’s loving wild

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




ReelBigLizard posted:

Did you check your stepper driver current limits? If they're too low then you might just be skipping steps because the motors aren't strong enough. Cleaned and Oiled your linear bearings too?

EDIT: and make sure your belts aren't too tight and causing binding. reducing acceleration in the printer settings may help too.

The only one of these that hasn't had layer shifts is the one where I decided to be patient and only cranked my printer up to like ~115% of the Prusa settings

So after tensioning, I tried running one at 175 and that one failed real quick

I've got another going at 110% right now and I'm just going to let it go
I've dialed down the infill and other settings enough that I've gotten my first 16 hour print down to 12 so I'll accept that wait

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




The Eyes Have It posted:

I have only been skimming your posts but am I right that your print running at 150% speed getting a layer shift 6 hours in was all :iiam:?


Is running at 100% speed or lower considered sinful by your people or something

The manual said to have at it, but print quality may suffer, and probably definitely don't go over 200%

So it seemed like fair game

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Frozen Pizza Party posted:

Are you using the speed or quality preset in slic3r? The speed one has 200mm/s movements already, so cranking that up higher than 100% is iffy, imo

I was on quality, as it had never really occured to me to hit that dropdown and look at the other settings there. This is neat!

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Patience finally won out and I got my set of planters done

Turns out only printing one half at a time instead of top and bottom in the same print did a lot to just mentally make me okay with 12* hours of printing

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Did my first print of a thing I modeled myself and it feels so good!

It's a miniature version of my arcade game, Scoot Pooch

Spent 4 hours slowly turning my woodworking Sketchup model into a solid, which fuckin sucked



And it turned out pretty great!



But gluing the three pieces together kind of sucks (you can see some CA glue dripping out under the first O there) and if I want to distribute these to people it'd be rad if the pieces could instead snap together or at least have some guide pegs. This also provides a good opportunity for me to learn a real CAD program and stop using Sketchup. Are there any decent guides on how to model out pegs and snaps and stuff or even, by the grace of heaven, an app that'll do it for me?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




TKIY posted:

Didn't cross thread, the nut just tore up the plastic as it was being pulled in and then rounded it out. I can drill out the screw I guess.

Have to see if there is a spare 20mm screw in the bag. Super glue didn't work.

If the nut rounded out the hole, you should be able to get pliers or a knife in there to hold it
If you didn’t get the screw all the way in, you should be able to push the nut out with the screw


The only part of the Prusa assembly I had trouble with, outside of putting a few things on backwards, was getting the plastic bits to snap on to the end of the x rails. Did a good bit of shattering to the one, but not enough to compromise it structurally. That when I switched from a mallet to a clamp to get it all the way on. The nuts were rarely ever a problem and I have no idea how you did the thing you did

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




So here's this loop I seem to be on

Like four days in a row of great prints -> one print goes to poo poo real hard, usually a bubbled up blob of PETG somewhere -> print crash yay -> now my z alignment is hosed up and the nozzle is digging into the bed -> yank all the baked on PETG off the nozzle -> try to adjust my Z height -> can't even get a calibration print going because all the filament is just sucking back up around the outside of the nozzle instead of the print bed -> get angry and go to bed -> the next day, heat it up (again), clean all the baked on PETG off the nozzle (again), give the nozzle a good alcohol/acetone wipedown (necessary? I dunno) -> now it works fine

And I'm not sure why the hell this keeps happening or why I find myself once again stuck in this "CANT GET ANYTHING TO PRINT" loop. I've only had this printer for two weeks and this is, I think, the third time I've found myself in this situation. Is there something dumb that I'm doing or does PETG just naturally cause problems like this? And if so, how come it's fine for fuckin' days and I've got my settings dialed in and then it goes to poo poo and then I need to recalibrate everything?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Frozen Pizza Party posted:

Not sure why, but it sounds like it's clogging the nozzle. Use the accupuncture needle it came with to clear the jam if it's doing the sucking up around the outside thing. I've only printed one thing in PETG on the prusa thus far, but switching from that to PLA was no issue. Haven't had any issues with any of my PLA prints either.

I can manually extrude just fine, and the purge strip comes out normal, it's just once it gets to printing it wants to mushroom up

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Struggled for a while getting my printer to print again

Cleaned the nozzle
Ran the needle through the nozzle
Did a few cold pulls
Did that dumbass thing where you run the hot nozzle into a failed print and let it cool so you can real quick peel off all the stuck on filament
Adjusted the Z calibration a hundred times

Still fuckin just boogering and peeling up everywhere

Swap out my black filament for white filament
Everything prints fine
Put the black back in
Everything is printing more or less fine

unless


Sockser posted:

And it turned out pretty great!


I sliced up a print that's six of these models at once, and that just can't loving print ever for some goddamned reason


I also started doing nicer 2-color versions



Dunno why the orange one failed but it looked neat enough to save and not throw in the fail bin

(these arcade minis are making me really want a MMU)

Sockser fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Mar 19, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




What’s the big advantage with the powder coated sheet over the normal sheets?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Yeah I got octoprint just so I had a way to make timelapses and monitor prints from work and saw all the jerking off about how much better it makes everything and thought that was dumb, “it’s so easy to just put things on my sd card and walk three feet to my printer!” But then it turns out just dropping a file onto a webpage is pretty great

And now there’s a cool new plugin that’ll try to detect a failed print and stop it automatically? That’s fuckin wild

Octoprints great and I’m sure I’ll appreciate it even more when I get a second printer

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Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




3 hours into a 5 hour print of several parts at once
4 of the parts are looking good, one has turned to spaghetti. I can’t really get home to restart the print, so the question is if I let it go and hope it works out or cancel the entire print so it doesn’t get worse

Update: the spaghetti got stuck to the extruder and that was that. I’m losing so much print time now 😓

Sockser fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Mar 27, 2019

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