|
It is possible to print items a little larger: http://www.3d-printers.com.au/2010/12/07/seriously-large-3d-printer-makes-chairs/ :v I keep thinking I'd like to put together a Reprap but I'd never justify it. Then I keep thinking of things I'd print, I'm sure I've justified it by now... Question - can the extrusion machine print hollow objects?
|
# ¿ Jan 9, 2011 16:11 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 10:39 |
|
Daggerpants posted:Most of the stuff I see that comes out of the lower budget printers is very rough in appearance. Is it possible to sand the abs smooth post printing? ABS can be filed and sanded yes.
|
# ¿ Jan 14, 2011 21:56 |
|
I have a couple dumb questions. What software is required to transform CAD into a 'print-path' ? How is this software set up with regards the printer - resolution, decoding which axis is which etc? Could I build my own printer from scratch & use the software on it?
|
# ¿ Feb 15, 2011 23:38 |
|
Videodrome, thanks, that was exactly what I was asking.
|
# ¿ Feb 17, 2011 13:36 |
|
Zhentar posted:Summary for the lazy: it's back up because the guy dropped the issue. He likely had a legitimate copyright claim; while he cannot lay claim to the concept of the Penrose Triangle, he did create a 3D representation of it, and that work is copyrightable. So you can copyright anything you can print? cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Feb 24, 2011 |
# ¿ Feb 24, 2011 09:19 |
|
I was half tongue-in-cheek when I said that, but nice to see it's a well-discussed topic.
|
# ¿ Feb 24, 2011 22:22 |
|
The Adama posted:Well, I think I finally got all the kinks worked out of my Makerbot, and I've pulled off a 4 hour print with no problems. Now I just need to sell the Reprap Mendel that I started and then became totally overwhelmed by. Anyone have an opinion on if I should try and sell it partially assembled(main vertexes and threaded rod structure) or take it apart? Take it apart & sell it as a kit. Where are you?
|
# ¿ Mar 16, 2011 12:39 |
|
technight, did you print each part of those figs in coloured plastic or colour them afterwards?
|
# ¿ Mar 20, 2011 15:34 |
|
They were judging a round of the Toyota Technology challenge at work today, Normally I pop in and have a look at what the schools have whipped up and today one of the schools had a 3d printer they were using to make complicated parts of their solar racecars, it was a RapMan 3, stepper motored, laser-cut acrylic construction with threaded rod support, the sample prints they had on the table were incredible. No pictures unfortunately but whipping out my cameraphone in a room full of schoolkids would have been frowned upon Anyway, straight back to my desk & start searching, I think this needs to be added to the OP - it starts at £795, is upgradable to triple extruder head & was developed by Bath University http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/content/rapman-31-3d-printer-kit I had to force myself not to immediately blow my bonus on it.
|
# ¿ Mar 31, 2011 21:33 |
|
That's a question I've been meaning to ask - what is the purpose of the raft?
|
# ¿ Apr 4, 2011 08:52 |
|
I was impressed with the detail, but this was the first 3d print I saw in the wild. Is there any reason I shouldn't be saving up for one of these right now?
|
# ¿ Apr 4, 2011 12:31 |
|
Thanks for the explanation, that all makes sense. In return, have a video of a light-curing-resin printer that made me Our old friends Makezine http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=snOErpOP5Xk
|
# ¿ Apr 4, 2011 20:09 |
|
It just occurred to me you'd have to design drain holes into any bottom-up liquid-resin prints, otherwise you'd have a finished product with a liquid gooey centre. Is this something you could make the' compiler' handle, or something the designer would have to put in themselves?
|
# ¿ Apr 11, 2011 12:32 |
|
kafkasgoldfish posted:What sort of designs were you envisioning where this would be an issue? This may not be the best way to replenish your ping-pong ball supply Anything with a large 3d mass that didn't need to be solid for reasons of weight/cost/strength.
|
# ¿ Apr 11, 2011 20:09 |
|
Mister Sinewave posted:Hey, I tried to print something decent-sized and had my camera handy. Remember my yammering about cooling and curling and rafts and stuff? Here's a visual aid. So how hard would it be to make your own heated print bed? I'm thinking sheet of aluminium, nichrome or similar heater wire, underbed of suitable insulation, install a thermocouple & set & control temperature, including gradual cooldown.
|
# ¿ Apr 15, 2011 22:20 |
|
The Adama posted:I was thinking the same thing with the one my company has. It was a half million for the printer, and the powder used for printing is thousands of dollars for a quart or something insane. What will be the tipping point for hobby vs commercial printers will be getting hobby printers with multiple print heads that include a disolvable support material, and options for rigid or flexible structural material. And Makerbot already sells a water soluble material. The rapman I posted about has an optional triple extrude head.
|
# ¿ Apr 20, 2011 19:48 |
|
International shipping is between $100 & $330 for me, poop.
|
# ¿ Apr 21, 2011 11:04 |
|
For higher resolution than real life I'll let it print overnight.
|
# ¿ Aug 19, 2011 08:38 |
|
That video could have been reduced to 3 static shots & about 30 seconds of in-motion video. Anyway, warping is a materials/heat/airflow issue, the design in the vid can be built to any dimensions with a little diagonal cross bracing.
|
# ¿ Nov 26, 2011 23:26 |
|
ChrisDKK posted:I printed gift tags/labels too, they've been pretty well received so far. These are very special in the best way, the plain brown packaging sets them off perfectly, plus I bet everyone keeps their nametag afterwards. You make me want a printer even more.
|
# ¿ Dec 23, 2011 20:05 |
|
Splizwarf posted:So uh, apparently my (relatively local) alma mater just got a Z-printer Ultra for teaching a 3-D printing class because a friend told the Dean it was a good idea. What do I do now? Print a copy, steal the original.
|
# ¿ Jan 5, 2012 07:00 |
|
This is how I learn thingiverse has "hot", "butt" & "boobs" tags
|
# ¿ Jan 12, 2012 18:41 |
|
Someone mentioned a prusa or something made with uni-strut, that sounds like it'd be stiff enough, as for the rest of the components you can replace them with better as you go along. I've love an ultimaker & would probably want to replace the plywood sides with something else later, if only to extend the z-range.
|
# ¿ Jan 29, 2012 13:12 |
|
A well set-up ultimaker running cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Feb 4, 2012 |
# ¿ Feb 4, 2012 19:33 |
|
InternetJunky posted:I think I'm sold, but I'll ask again -- how easy is it to get a "well set-up ultimaker"? Since I don't have access to any of these machines I really have no idea what's involved in the process once you place the order and get the package. Is this something that is going to drain endless amounts of time trying to get set-up correctly? Unfortunately I have no first hand experience, fortunately there are ultimaker forums. The bonus of a kit like that is it comes complete, no mismatched or dumpster diving components, everything you need is supplied & of consistent quality. There is also some element of guarantee & support. One interesting thing I learnt from that blog about printing polycarbonate is that your filament will absorb moisture from the air, harming fine detail (the moisture boils going through the extruder head, causing you to lay down inconsistent layers) reading up a shitload & picking up little details like this will help no end.
|
# ¿ Feb 5, 2012 00:36 |
|
Linux Assassin posted:(I have the advantage that while I want a 3d printer, I want it for about two years from now rather then 'as soon as I can scrape the money together!'- ultimaker seems to be the best overall right now from my observation though) For me two years from now might be as soon as I can scrape the money together By the time I have the money together hopefully something even more awesome will be along & I can spend the money on that instead.
|
# ¿ Feb 5, 2012 11:57 |
|
That sparked a good chat yesterday about 3d printing & the medical benefits of - my wife was watching a program where a fella with terrible facial burns had his skull scanned & the doctors used the printed copy as a practice skull for bone grafts, they also used parts of the print where it was less invasive that using bone. Very inspiring stuff. I now have wifely approval to get a printer
|
# ¿ Feb 7, 2012 08:43 |
|
The z-axis drive is beautiful in its simplicity.
|
# ¿ Feb 18, 2012 08:43 |
|
As long as you leave a tiny hole at the top of the print it'll all drain out as it gets lifted during the print.
|
# ¿ Mar 8, 2012 06:51 |
|
Wait, so can I feed this thing the windows pipes screensaver & have it print the whole thing without supports?
|
# ¿ Mar 13, 2012 12:20 |
|
How small? What scale?
|
# ¿ Mar 20, 2012 22:51 |
|
SublimeDelusions posted:I think this would work pretty well for me after reading some of the thread again, especially since I want to just do some bones and skulls really. Define 'really well' quote:Also, how would I best go about converting a 2d image into something 3d? Difficult, there is data missing. Either you need more 2d images from other directions to fill in the gaps of you need to create the 3d image from scratch. What are these 2d images you are starting from? Do they have sufficient detail? quote:Where can I start learning about using some of these drawing programs to make the images? Download, start playing.
|
# ¿ Mar 21, 2012 22:36 |
|
Modifying a single 2d image into a 3d model is really hard. You don't have enough information in 1 image such as thickness, any bends etc. You're better off finding a 3d model or making 1 from scratch, though there is a way, with a couple of 2d images to create a reasonable model. Create an "extrusion" with your first image on the top so it looks like you stacked 10,000 paper slices of the first image. Then take your second image (same object, same scale), figure out how it relates to the first image in terms of rotation etc, place this image on your extrusion & remove all parts of the model that don't match both images. Continue for as many images as you have, then use your judgement to neaten the image up. If anyone understood that, please supply images to explain as unfortunately I'm on a phone & will be for the foreseeable future.
|
# ¿ Mar 23, 2012 22:08 |
|
The frame for a dlp printer can be a lot simpler than that pictured but this is getting really interesting. What do you need for these things - is this a complete list? Vat, resin, projector with source matched to the resin, frame, Z-axis, platform, controller electronics, software.
|
# ¿ Mar 30, 2012 22:38 |
|
Yeah $350 per litre is taking the piss.
|
# ¿ Apr 1, 2012 21:18 |
|
Just for an apples to oranges comparison, how much is a reel of PLU or ABS by weight? Also - if your lamp matches the resin, whats to stop you buying the lemon curry resin for use in your veloso printer? cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Apr 3, 2012 |
# ¿ Apr 3, 2012 15:30 |
|
Young Freud posted:In an effort to save money, because the Euro is trading at a $1.30 rate, do I really need the Laser Cut Parts? Do I really need the NetFabb engine? What tools do you have access to? It might be possible to get parts cut locally cheaper from a plan, check waterjetters as well as lasercutters, depending on the parts a bandsaw & pillar drill may suffice. No idea about the netfabb engine.
|
# ¿ Apr 18, 2012 14:28 |
|
$550 + postage to the uk is very tempting for an out-the-box printer with 6" x 6" x 6" envelope & hbp. The only hold back is the "we'll charge you straight away & send you a printer at some point in the future" part. Edit: they claim 0.3mm typical for a fast/smooth print, possible to print at 0.1mm if required cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Apr 26, 2012 |
# ¿ Apr 26, 2012 07:53 |
|
Just to be clear, they're not shipping yet are they? I have a bonus coming in a month that I promised I would waste on a toy for myself & with the USD->GBP exchange at the moment the solidoodle is perfect. I'm just not sure I'm comfortable letting them charge my CC & sitting back waiting on a nonexistent deadline.
|
# ¿ Apr 27, 2012 08:56 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 10:39 |
|
It's not just price, although it's a steal if it's reliable & works out the box, it's also the decent resolution (i know insane resolution is possible but the effort/reward ratio gets nuts) & buying an appliance, not a kit/hobby for the next 3 months. I want the fun & adventure of owning & using a printer, I don't want the fun & adventure of trying to get the damned thing running. Any time I think "ooh, I could just print that (solution to this problem)" I've made a note, there's dozens of things I could print right away.
|
# ¿ Apr 27, 2012 09:48 |