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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

It is possible to print items a little larger:

http://www.3d-printers.com.au/2010/12/07/seriously-large-3d-printer-makes-chairs/

:v

I keep thinking I'd like to put together a Reprap but I'd never justify it. Then I keep thinking of things I'd print, I'm sure I've justified it by now...

Question - can the extrusion machine print hollow objects?

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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Daggerpants posted:

Most of the stuff I see that comes out of the lower budget printers is very rough in appearance. Is it possible to sand the abs smooth post printing?

ABS can be filed and sanded yes.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I have a couple dumb questions. What software is required to transform CAD into a 'print-path' ? How is this software set up with regards the printer - resolution, decoding which axis is which etc? Could I build my own printer from scratch & use the software on it?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Videodrome, thanks, that was exactly what I was asking.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Zhentar posted:

Summary for the lazy: it's back up because the guy dropped the issue. He likely had a legitimate copyright claim; while he cannot lay claim to the concept of the Penrose Triangle, he did create a 3D representation of it, and that work is copyrightable.

So you can copyright anything you can print?

cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Feb 24, 2011

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I was half tongue-in-cheek when I said that, but nice to see it's a well-discussed topic.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

The Adama posted:

Well, I think I finally got all the kinks worked out of my Makerbot, and I've pulled off a 4 hour print with no problems. Now I just need to sell the Reprap Mendel that I started and then became totally overwhelmed by. Anyone have an opinion on if I should try and sell it partially assembled(main vertexes and threaded rod structure) or take it apart?

Take it apart & sell it as a kit. Where are you?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

technight, did you print each part of those figs in coloured plastic or colour them afterwards?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

They were judging a round of the Toyota Technology challenge at work today, Normally I pop in and have a look at what the schools have whipped up and today one of the schools had a 3d printer they were using to make complicated parts of their solar racecars, it was a RapMan 3, stepper motored, laser-cut acrylic construction with threaded rod support, the sample prints they had on the table were incredible.

No pictures unfortunately but whipping out my cameraphone in a room full of schoolkids would have been frowned upon :pedo: :v:

Anyway, straight back to my desk & start searching, I think this needs to be added to the OP - it starts at £795, is upgradable to triple extruder head & was developed by Bath University

http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/content/rapman-31-3d-printer-kit

I had to force myself not to immediately blow my bonus on it.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

That's a question I've been meaning to ask - what is the purpose of the raft?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I was impressed with the detail, but this was the first 3d print I saw in the wild. Is there any reason I shouldn't be saving up for one of these right now?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Thanks for the explanation, that all makes sense.

In return, have a video of a light-curing-resin printer that made me :aaaaa:

Our old friends Makezine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=snOErpOP5Xk

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

It just occurred to me you'd have to design drain holes into any bottom-up liquid-resin prints, otherwise you'd have a finished product with a liquid gooey centre. Is this something you could make the' compiler' handle, or something the designer would have to put in themselves?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

kafkasgoldfish posted:

What sort of designs were you envisioning where this would be an issue? This may not be the best way to replenish your ping-pong ball supply :)

Anything with a large 3d mass that didn't need to be solid for reasons of weight/cost/strength.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Mister Sinewave posted:

Hey, I tried to print something decent-sized and had my camera handy. Remember my yammering about cooling and curling and rafts and stuff? Here's a visual aid.

I never even got to complete printing the raft before the cooling and curling of the ABS caused the whole thing to lift. A proper print would be impossible. Here's what that looks like:



So how hard would it be to make your own heated print bed? I'm thinking sheet of aluminium, nichrome or similar heater wire, underbed of suitable insulation, install a thermocouple & set & control temperature, including gradual cooldown.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

The Adama posted:

I was thinking the same thing with the one my company has. It was a half million for the printer, and the powder used for printing is thousands of dollars for a quart or something insane. What will be the tipping point for hobby vs commercial printers will be getting hobby printers with multiple print heads that include a disolvable support material, and options for rigid or flexible structural material. And Makerbot already sells a water soluble material.

The rapman I posted about has an optional triple extrude head.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

International shipping is between $100 & $330 for me, poop.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

For higher resolution than real life I'll let it print overnight.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

That video could have been reduced to 3 static shots & about 30 seconds of in-motion video.

Anyway, warping is a materials/heat/airflow issue, the design in the vid can be built to any dimensions with a little diagonal cross bracing.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

ChrisDKK posted:

I printed gift tags/labels too, they've been pretty well received so far.





These are very special in the best way, the plain brown packaging sets them off perfectly, plus I bet everyone keeps their nametag afterwards. You make me want a printer even more.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Splizwarf posted:

So uh, apparently my (relatively local) alma mater just got a Z-printer Ultra for teaching a 3-D printing class because a friend told the Dean it was a good idea. What do I do now?

Print a copy, steal the original.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

This is how I learn thingiverse has "hot", "butt" & "boobs" tags :ughh:

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Someone mentioned a prusa or something made with uni-strut, that sounds like it'd be stiff enough, as for the rest of the components you can replace them with better as you go along. I've love an ultimaker & would probably want to replace the plywood sides with something else later, if only to extend the z-range.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

A well set-up ultimaker running PLU (is that right?) PLA with careful prep & controlling the ambient conditions of the print will almost certainly be adequate to your needs.

cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Feb 4, 2012

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

InternetJunky posted:

I think I'm sold, but I'll ask again -- how easy is it to get a "well set-up ultimaker"? Since I don't have access to any of these machines I really have no idea what's involved in the process once you place the order and get the package. Is this something that is going to drain endless amounts of time trying to get set-up correctly?

Unfortunately I have no first hand experience, fortunately there are ultimaker forums. The bonus of a kit like that is it comes complete, no mismatched or dumpster diving components, everything you need is supplied & of consistent quality. There is also some element of guarantee & support.

One interesting thing I learnt from that blog about printing polycarbonate is that your filament will absorb moisture from the air, harming fine detail (the moisture boils going through the extruder head, causing you to lay down inconsistent layers) reading up a shitload & picking up little details like this will help no end.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Linux Assassin posted:

(I have the advantage that while I want a 3d printer, I want it for about two years from now rather then 'as soon as I can scrape the money together!'- ultimaker seems to be the best overall right now from my observation though)

For me two years from now might be as soon as I can scrape the money together :v:
By the time I have the money together hopefully something even more awesome will be along & I can spend the money on that instead.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

That sparked a good chat yesterday about 3d printing & the medical benefits of - my wife was watching a program where a fella with terrible facial burns had his skull scanned & the doctors used the printed copy as a practice skull for bone grafts, they also used parts of the print where it was less invasive that using bone. Very inspiring stuff. I now have wifely approval to get a printer :buddy:

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

The z-axis drive is beautiful in its simplicity.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

As long as you leave a tiny hole at the top of the print it'll all drain out as it gets lifted during the print.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Wait, so can I feed this thing the windows pipes screensaver & have it print the whole thing without supports? :haw:

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

How small? What scale?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

SublimeDelusions posted:

I think this would work pretty well for me after reading some of the thread again, especially since I want to just do some bones and skulls really.

Which of the printers would be the cheapest and still do really well (I'm a poor grad student)?


Define 'really well'

quote:

Also, how would I best go about converting a 2d image into something 3d?


Difficult, there is data missing. Either you need more 2d images from other directions to fill in the gaps of you need to create the 3d image from scratch. What are these 2d images you are starting from? Do they have sufficient detail?

quote:

Where can I start learning about using some of these drawing programs to make the images?

Download, start playing.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Modifying a single 2d image into a 3d model is really hard. You don't have enough information in 1 image such as thickness, any bends etc. You're better off finding a 3d model or making 1 from scratch, though there is a way, with a couple of 2d images to create a reasonable model.

Create an "extrusion" with your first image on the top so it looks like you stacked 10,000 paper slices of the first image. Then take your second image (same object, same scale), figure out how it relates to the first image in terms of rotation etc, place this image on your extrusion & remove all parts of the model that don't match both images. Continue for as many images as you have, then use your judgement to neaten the image up.

If anyone understood that, please supply images to explain as unfortunately I'm on a phone & will be for the foreseeable future.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

The frame for a dlp printer can be a lot simpler than that pictured but this is getting really interesting. What do you need for these things - is this a complete list?

Vat, resin, projector with source matched to the resin, frame, Z-axis, platform, controller electronics, software.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Yeah $350 per litre is taking the piss.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Just for an apples to oranges comparison, how much is a reel of PLU or ABS by weight?

Also - if your lamp matches the resin, whats to stop you buying the lemon curry resin for use in your veloso printer?

cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Apr 3, 2012

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Young Freud posted:

In an effort to save money, because the Euro is trading at a $1.30 rate, do I really need the Laser Cut Parts? Do I really need the NetFabb engine?

What tools do you have access to? It might be possible to get parts cut locally cheaper from a plan, check waterjetters as well as lasercutters, depending on the parts a bandsaw & pillar drill may suffice.

No idea about the netfabb engine.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

$550 + postage to the uk is very tempting for an out-the-box printer with 6" x 6" x 6" envelope & hbp. The only hold back is the "we'll charge you straight away & send you a printer at some point in the future" part.

Edit: they claim 0.3mm typical for a fast/smooth print, possible to print at 0.1mm if required :aaa:

cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Apr 26, 2012

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Just to be clear, they're not shipping yet are they? I have a bonus coming in a month that I promised I would waste on a toy for myself & with the USD->GBP exchange at the moment the solidoodle is perfect. I'm just not sure I'm comfortable letting them charge my CC & sitting back waiting on a nonexistent deadline.

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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

It's not just price, although it's a steal if it's reliable & works out the box, it's also the decent resolution (i know insane resolution is possible but the effort/reward ratio gets nuts) & buying an appliance, not a kit/hobby for the next 3 months. I want the fun & adventure of owning & using a printer, I don't want the fun & adventure of trying to get the damned thing running.

Any time I think "ooh, I could just print that (solution to this problem)" I've made a note, there's dozens of things I could print right away.

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