|
I'm looking to CNC some holes (round and rectangular) for ports on an ABS enclosure. The tricky part: The edge is 3.5" tall, and most of what I find has a maximum height of 2". I found the Snapmaker. Would this do it? It's more expensive than some others, but I'm willing to pay if it's the only game in town. It's marketed as a laser engraver and 3d printer too, which I don't plan on using. Is this what I'm looking for? Will this A: Get the job done, and B: Are there any alternatives? Thank you. Backup plan is a drill press. It'll work, but is slower, more prone to error (I have to manually position the piece for each hole), and I have to use grommets with rectangular holes cut out for the non-circular ports.
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2020 00:55
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 3, 2024 13:25 |
|
|
Thanks! Done.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2020 01:37
|
|
|
Hi. I want to buy a 3d printer to help me learn CAD and then make injection molds. Which should I buy? Smallish enclosures etc for electronics / displays etc. I remember before the ones that turned out to be popular were tough to buy, or involved long wait times. Creality Ender 3? Dominoes fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Mar 22, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2021 20:53
|
|
|
The latter.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2021 20:58
|
|
|
Ordered. I was planning to use FreeCad, but have heard Solid is much nicer.... but was tracking a much higher price point than that. edit: Found a way to get student edition for $20, if I can figure some forms out Dominoes fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Mar 22, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2021 22:44
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:Yeah, all the EDU versions are strictly non-commercial, and the files are watermarked. It's certainly the best tool for the job, and the tools for injection molding are really great. Bondematt posted:Bed springs and a quality Micro SD card are the only necessary upgrades. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Mar 23, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2021 15:36
|
|
|
Hell yea brother
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2021 15:59
|
|
|
Bondematt posted:I went with 16gb, it was $10 for 2 on amazon. I dont know if there is a low limit for capacity but 16 is way more than I'll ever need
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2021 01:25
|
|
|
snail posted:Now to solve the bed sticking problem. I'll finally try a glue stick. It seems like the print won't stick to the bed of my new Ender 3 (PETG) unless bed temp is 70+, and the nozzle is almost touching the bed from the auto-cal-home height.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2021 09:39
|
|
|
Like I posted earlier, try making sure the nozzle is almost touching the bed at auto home height (sounds like you are?), and set the bed hotter.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2021 00:47
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:Fusion 360 recently changed their pricing model and I guess you can't export STEP? Or maybe they back tracked on that after everybody freaked out I also don't trust the motivations behind cloud-first (only?) storage in Fusion. FreeCad seems like it's trying to copy the workflow and feature set of SolidWorks, but fails in enough details to make it a pain to use.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2021 21:08
|
|
|
I'll bite: I like making and selling electronics. I've started with bare circuit boards people can plug into Rpis / Arduinos etc, but am moving on to standalone electronics. Injection molding is expensive! This is a problem when I don't have a good idea of what will be successful, and aim to benefit from trying different things, at relatively low development costs. My plan initially involved premade enclosures, with the aid of a CNC machine and drill press, but this is becoming troublesome, ie trying to machine anything but the short edge on larger enclosures is unfeasible, I'm constraining my design to the enclosures, and in some cases am unable to find a suitable enclosure. Enter 3d printing: As more than a prototype. The Ender 3 I have now prints things that don't look great, and it takes a while. Great for prototyping. But it might be fine for products that don't have to look great, and/or early runs where I'm testing popularity. Other options include higher-quality printers (resin, and/or nicer ones), or using a company that 3d prints for you on high-quality machines. Then for the successful designs, tweak the model and do injection molding. Is this feasible? Thoughts on how to approach it? Ie 3D printing small runs of commercial products, mainly electronics enclosures.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2021 21:21
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:Maybe learn how to make silicon moulds and pour resin reproductions?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2021 22:25
|
|
|
Also, this Ender 3 is loud. Is the V2 really more quiet? Willing to drop more cash for my sanity. Also apparently has less bed sticking, which is the most common issue I'm hitting. Don't care about sunk costs; screwed up by not doing enough HW, and will pay for it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2021 22:26
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:If you'd like some resin printed stuff done, I'd be glad to run a couple of samples for you if they'll fit in my machines. I'm currently testing some real nice rigid/impact resistant stuff for the company that makes it, super low shrinkage as far as resin goes (like 3.5%) and so far it's been great. I'm not really in a position to do any kind of actual production, but if you want to see if it'd be feasible for you I'm happy to give it a whack.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2021 23:11
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:I might even start with FDM 3D printing and later on check out something like a Form 3. Stratasys also acquired a benchtop resin printing company last year, which may present a competitor. I really enjoy running the Form 3 at the makerspace, and you can even run others' parts in your spare time. I run an at-cost 3D printing service for it at the makerspace since it's inexpensive per-unit but up-front cost is like $300 for each resin + tray combo. At $3,500 for just the printer, it may be worth looking into a benchtop CNC like a Taig + a single-shot injection molder, which will run more money, but save you a lot of time with post processing since all you'll have to do is trim flash and sprues. Re plan 2: Are you implying mill injection molds myself using a high-quality CNC?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2021 01:43
|
|
|
3 non-pro
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2021 14:25
|
|
|
The motors appear to be the noisy limfac.
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Apr 3, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2021 14:40
|
|
|
Oh sweet!
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2021 15:06
|
|
|
This one?
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Apr 3, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2021 15:07
|
|
|
Awesome. I figure maybe the reviews talking about firmware update was old; will see what happens. The picture shows an STM32F103, which has a bootloader. Not sure how the boot0 pin is wired though; if that's hard-pulled down and there are no JTAG pins, not sure how to approach it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2021 15:41
|
|
|
Thank you again. Got some springs on Amazon with the printer, along with the metal extruder. Re flashing: Flashing that chip with binary files (Like the one I downloaded) is easy, if USB is wired, and a specific pin is connected to a button or switch; this lets it boot up into the bootloader instead of the program part of flash memory.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2021 15:56
|
|
|
Replaced Ender 3 (v1) motherboard with the silent one. Concur that the servo sound is gone, and the remaining noise is predominantly the fans.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2021 23:09
|
|
|
Out of curiosity, what types of things are y'all printing? I just started this adventure. Have been using to prototype electronics enclosures with an Ender3 in PETG and ABS. Am considering using in early iterations of commercial projects to validate interest before injection molding. One of the projects is heat sensitive, so ABS may be the best bet. 2 are moisture sensitive.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2021 17:20
|
|
|
ABS trip report on Ender 3: Switched to ABS from PETG due to due needing temperature and moisture resistance. The print are much... cleaner. Ie no stringing, and the layers seem to fuse with each other into a solid surface. But more finicky re sticking: If I don't crank the bed temperature to 90-100, it will start detaching / warping off the bed within the first 10 layers, and if I avoid this, the final print is VERY tough to remove from the bed. Btw, it was cool reading about the breadth of projects people are using 3D printers for!
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2021 18:30
|
|
|
Thanks for the wisdom. Re smell: Not messing with that. It's on my balcony. I'm in North Carolina, so I hope the electronics and moving parts, and inter-layer space on the prints enjoy pollen.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2021 19:01
|
|
|
Latest print came off a lot easier. Maybe since I lowered the bed temp to 80, and maybe because I removed it right after letting it cool a bit instead of leaving it on for hours. I wish I didn't toss the old PETG prints, but the difference in print quality is night+day.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2021 19:42
|
|
|
RabbitWizard posted:I'm getting a used Creality Ender 3 for cheap and can pick it up in a few hours Stack that's been good for my purposes: Filament: PLA is the easiest for avoiding defects under a range of conditions. PETG is more durable and has better heat resistance. ABS has even better heat resistance, can be welded onto common plastic parts, finishes well, and can look nicer, but is subject to warping and splitting if it cools too quickly, and may emits more toxic fumes when printing. - Solidworks for building geometry (You can get for $20/year if you can qualify as student/military/other tricks). FreeCad is free, but is cumbersome to use. Blender may be suitable if you're making artistic things vice parts. - Cura for slicing (Converting the model geometry into Gcode instructions for the printer.) Default settings for your material. If it's too loud for you, you can buy a new motherboard that makes it much quieter. Installing can be a bit tricky due to the original wires being glued in. Does anyone have any tricks for automating the model -> printer process? Ie I have to click a sub-part in SW, select save, click through some menus and radio buttons to get the STL for that subpart, repeat for other subpart(s), open CURA, open part 1, select the base, reset the position, slice/save, close part 1, open/select/resize/slice/save part 2, unmount SD, move SD to printer. Can I loop in a python script or something? Guessing no. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Apr 18, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2021 16:13
|
|
|
It appears Cura supports those formats, but imports all subparts as the same piece. I'll give assembly-exporting a shot, but for now, assemblies are broken on my project due to the sub-parts rendering twice (once as a part, again as a subpart)
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Apr 18, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2021 17:01
|
|
|
Related trip report: Even after getting an enclosure, my ABS is de-laminating every cm or so vertically. Going to try a hotter extruder temp, or maybe adding a bulb to the enclosure. Want to use ABS for temp resistance and welding to plastic parts. Re PETG: Compared to ABS, it's much stringier, and the contrast between inside and outside isn't as well defined. Ie the ABS prints are clean with solid edges, while the PETG is... mushier? Dominoes fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Apr 24, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2021 21:08
|
|
|
Thank you! Going to try the hotter temps on the next run. Experimenting with a different part orientation on this one. Will look into the draft shield. Cooling fan is off.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2021 22:13
|
|
|
Thanks for the tips on ABS. Got a good print in an enclosure with 260°C nozzle and 100° plate.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2021 02:12
|
|
|
Hi. Does anyone know how to fix this issue on the bottom side of my print? The surface shown in the majority of this pic is the button when printing. Presumably due to the holes that poke out, the support structure isn't separating cleanly, leaving the rough edge. I'm assuming I can fix this using the slicing software. How would you approach? Thank you.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2021 20:21
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:What does the backside look like? I'd re-orient the object so it prints with the other side facing down if possible. The far side looks like the near one, and the bottom-apparent in the pic looks great. All other orientations take much longer to print, due to having to infill the whole empty middle area.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2021 21:33
|
|
|
Aurium posted:While not great, that's not all that bad as support scarring goes. If you want a truly cosmetic face you always have to value print time (placing a slower way up), post process time (ex. Sandpaper) and design. Ex, If you could make that face flat. Sagebrush posted:(Non-soluble) supports will always leave marks. I would fix that by reorienting the part so that the cosmetic surfaces don't have any supports on them. A bunch of rough crap on the inside of a housing is preferable to having that on the outside, for instance. Also consider splitting the part into multiple easily-printable pieces that are snapped, screwed or glued together afterwards. Maybe leaving out those extrusions is the best way. (Maybe that's what Aurium mean's by flat; not the fillet). They're largely aesthetic, and their aesthetic is being overridden by the pockmarked surface. Would save print time this way too. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Apr 26, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2021 22:57
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Another consideration for improving aesthetics is that since you're printing these in ABS you could consider smoothing them with Acetone. You won't get a perfect finish since it just dissolves the outside slightly, but it might be preferable to the current look. You can also use acetone to stick ABS parts together since they get a little mushy. Thank you. I have a bottle nearby - I'd heard about this, but will give it a shot. For this, or other purposes. Hypnolobster posted:Most of the plastics we use with FDM are quite easy to glue, and that kind of part is well served by making a bore (that will bridge) register a separately printed part that gets glued in. I'd thought about that! Would save print time too. If I want the extrusions anyway, could print them separately and weld on. Planning to weld a prefabbed battery case into the inside this way. SchnorkIes posted:If the top piece is also flat you could attach the walls to it, print it face down, and then print the remaining piece nurples up biracial bear for uncut posted:What purpose do those extrusions serve? Why not maintain the holes and put 45-degree chamfers from the base to the tip, reorient the part vertically and print without supports (& find out how well your slicer settings for bridging work on the narrower bridge profile)?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2021 09:02
|
|
|
Ok, plan is this: Split it into 2 parts, using SW's split plane. Snap fit or weld together. This should fix the look, and probably save net print time, by avoiding infil. Also: Bought a flex steel build plate for Ender 3. Game changer. The default plate was a pain, and ended up tearing in several places after a few weeks of scraping off stuck abs and PETG.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2021 15:39
|
|
|
Btw, the steel buildplate (vice standard Ender 3) not only makes the prints easier to remove, it improves the surface. Bottom surface of parts. Left is standard plate, right is steel. Also of note: Unlike the bottom-with-supports being ugly, the bottom directly on steel build plate looks like smooth, almost like an injection-molded part. Probably due to the high build-plate temperature smoothing the finish.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2021 08:43
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:Does anybody have suggestions for ventilated enclosures that are suitable for ASA or ABS printing in a small space? I'd like to start dabbling with that but the fumes (and smell, but mostly the fumes) are what are keeping me away from printing with it since the printer's also in my living space and my garage isn't climate controlled. I can probably source the door and top lid for the Flashforge Creator Pro and get OEM parts or bash one together, but I still would like some kind of filtration/air scrubber thing to use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0827Y9YTH Ender official. Be careful when opening the box; I sliced a gash in when slicing the main box tape.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2021 16:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 3, 2024 13:25 |
|
|
Deviant posted:Would a prusa i3 fit in this? Fireproof is nice for my anxiety brain to leave stuff semi unattended. Even already running with smart outlet for remote-cutoff and camera.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2021 17:04
|
|